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Ross' Sleeper Z

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It's been a while since I posted so I thought I would give a little update.


I talked with Dave at AZC about the parking brake kit. He has the design finished but he has not made any kits yet. The kit will include everything needed: calipers, caliper brackets, cable, cable brackets, etc. He expects to have the kits completed by next week...at least one for me...so I'll stop bugging him :).


I'm piecing together my fuel system. I had Moyer Fuel Tank Renu restore my fuel tank and weld in a sump and baffling with 3/4" NPT fittings. 3/4" fittings are probably overkill but Aeromotive specifies a -10 feed so I went bigger rather than risk choking the pump with 1/2 inch fittings.


For the fuel system I've purchased all Aeromotive stuff: A1000 pump, 100 micron pre-filter, 10 micron post-pump filter, rising rate fuel pressure regulator, and a pump speed controller. All will be connected with AN fittings, Earl's Pro-lite hose and stainless tubing under the car.


I plan to mount the pump and filters to the Modern Motorsports rear brace. I'll have to fab up mounting plate but it should work well. The pump will be low enough to gravity feed it from the tank.


I have actually done some work on the car too. I mounted the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and turbo and did some preliminary turbo pipe routing. I may go with an over the engine turbo pipe routing. This should clear up room for my fan shroud (yes, I plan to run a stock clutch fan). I checked clearance to the hood and it appears there is plenty of room as long as the 2.5" pipe passes over the back half of the valve cover.


I'll try to take some pictures tomorrow, it's late and I need to go to bed.

Edited by rossman

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Here are a few pictures of work I did last weekend.


I forgot what a ***** it is to get to the nuts on the underside of the intake. Once I started installing the intake I remembered to put the nuts and thick washers on then slide the intake under them. It has been 15 years or so since the last one I installed. A new trick I learned on this board is to loosely taped up u-joint to aid aligning the socket with the nuts.


The turbo pipe routing is kinda odd but I think it will work. There is 1+ inches of clearance to the hood at that location. I like it because it will clear up room on the front side of the engine. It's kinda blingy but it's growing on me.


Notice the rather large -10 fuel rail. I know it's overkill but I like the looks of it and there is no doubt it will flow enough fuel to avoid restricting the fuel pump. Also note the rather small barb that was provided by the supplier. I think it's kinda odd that he would provide such small fitting for such a large rail. It would probably be best to either provide a 1/2 to AN fitting or toss it out and save some money.













Edited by rossman

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Just now had a chance to run across the thread again. Looking good! Be sure to touch base with us whenever your searching for parts, in addition to the welding we sell most of the product lines i've seen you mention. I also would throw a suggestion out there to build the midsection portion of the fuel system out of hardline vs. the usual method where everyone slings some braided softline up underneath the car. We've got a couple examples here at the shop i can show you next time your in our neck of the woods. Keep up the good work!


PowerFab Automotive

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I also would throw a suggestion out there to build the midsection portion of the fuel system out of hardline vs. the usual method where everyone slings some braided softline up underneath the car.


That is the plan. I've got a friend at work who has a large tube bender and flaring tool.


next time your in our neck of the woods. Keep up the good work!


Thanks for the compliments. I wish I was closer. It's a good hour drive to your place.

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I haven't done much to the car lately. I bent up some new brackets for the -10 fuel rail. I can't use the standard Pallnet mounting locations because I shaved the bosses off :bonk:. Still waiting on AZC parking brake brackets. I finally got around to removing the passenger side front suspension. I pulled it off and noticed the strut is toast. It doesn't have hardly any resistance. I went to pull it out and it's stuck. I've banged, pulled, hammered and just about everything I can think of to get that bastard off but it won't budge. The inside of the housing was completely dry. Apparently the PO had drilled a hole in the bottom of the housing. Not sure why. Maybe he was trying to get the strut out too. Who knows. I tried banging the strut out thru the hole with a punch and a 3 lbs hammer. No luck. The thing is frozen solid. So...now I'm looking for a replacement passenger side strut housing. Let me know if you got one you want to sell.

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Wow, I can't believe it's been since July that I posted last! Anyway, I have made some progress on the car since then.


Moyer Tank Renu installed a sump in my stock tank and re-coat it. It turned out pretty nice. The fittings are 3/4", should have been 1/2"...it's my fault, and a long story :blink:. I'll get some 3/4' to 5/8" 90 degree fittings to make the transition to the 316 stainless pipe that I purchased locally. I plan to hard pipe from the tank to the engine with flex hose making the connections to the pump and fuel rail. I will have to pull the engine back out to get the piping up in the transmission tunnel.




The Arizona Zcar brake brackets finally arrived! These have mounting provision for a separate parking brake. I don't really think Dave was ready to sell them but my weekly pleads for them drove him nuts so he finally relented and sold me a pair before the entire package was ready. Thanks Dave!




Performance Powder Coating powder coated a bunch of suspension parts for me. Their rate was reasonable and the parts turned out real nice. I will be giving them more parts in the coming weeks (months? :rolleyes: ).




Notice there is no welding by me in my build? Wonder why? I don't know how to weld. :( I borrowed a friends MIG and purchased an auto darkening hood. Time to start learnin' :D Hopefully I don't screw up too much stuff!

Edited by rossman

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Thanks for the compliments! It's about for another status :).


The front cross member, engine brackets, and a few other drive train brackets went out for powder coating this past Friday. They should be done late next week. Once the front cross member is back in, I plan to install all the suspension components, brakes and wheels. When that is complete I can roll the car out of the garage, pull the engine and route the the stainless fuel lines.


I installed the LD28 water pump. Had to shave a little off the front cover to clear the larger impeller. Hopefully it will help control detonation. Also plan to go straight Evans NPGR.

Edited by rossman

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Did a lot of work today. The suspension, brakes and wheels are back on the car. The car is FINALLY rolling again :).


I had a big scare. While jacking the front of the car, the jack slid off the front of the cross member and the whole car slammed down in a fraction of a second. Luckily I never get under a car during jacking for this very reason. The jack caught the front cover and bent the oil pan flange. I can't see any other damage. I was really worried it damaged the steering rack, crank or damper but they appear to be OK. The engine is only bolted down on one side so the whole weight of the car wasn't pulling down on it. I consider myself lucky this time.


Here are a few pics. I didn't install the differential so I have some room to work during the next step - installing the hard fuel line. I'm going to pull the engine and transmission so I have full access to the transmission tunnel to run the hard line.


Here are a couple pictures. Excuse the mess in my garage icon_redface.gif


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post-3218-068829700 1297734895_thumb.jpg

Edited by rossman

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Update time...


Pulled the engine from the car. I did this mainly to run the fuel line up in the tunnel. It's going to be tight. I'll be surprised if I get it right the first time :).


While I had the engine out, yep, you guessed it, got another case of "while I'm at it."


Decided to look for the plastic pieces that chipped off my brand new Precision injectors. Wanna guess where they are? That's right, down in the combustion chambers, cylinders and valve seats. Oh well, I can only blame my self. Mea Culpa!


In my frustration with the Precision injectors I purchased a new set of RC injectors that have machined aluminum tips. Hindsight I should have just replaced the pintle caps on the Precision injectors but its too late for that now. Anybody need a essentially new flow matched set of Precision low impedance 11mm o-ring injectors? IIRC they are 750 cc. I'll make you a good deal.


I put #1 on TDC compression stroke, wedged my trusty craftsman screw driver handle in the timing chain and pulled the head. The metal head gasket came off in one piece. I called Dave Rebello to see if I can reuse the gasket. He has done it before with no problem. Just need to apply a thin coat of Permatex Copper Coat. When we were talking I mentioned that the cam sprocket and timing chain were both on #1. He stated that my recollection was most likely wrong and advised me to check it. He instructed me how to verify and it checked out 1 on 1. I think he is still in disbelief but it checked out. I'm going to check it again when I get the head back on.


While the head is off I threaded the 12 mm (!) coolant bypass passage in the block. The turbo coolant lines will serve as a sufficient bypass. Got the idea from Tony D. on the Head cooling thread. The specifics start on post 423 or so. Threaded it 1/4-18NPT. Also threaded the crank case ventilation hole 3/4-14NPT. This will allow me to add a much more compact 3/4 NPT to -10 AN elbow for crank case ventilation. The stock vent pipe was interfering with my 9" K&N air filter. Problem solved :).


Purchased a new set of Z Car Customs - JDM adjustable T/C Rods. These will allow me to run adjustable front LCA bushings without any suspension bind.


Checked the front Tokico springs for coil bind. Looks like ~1/4" between coils. Doesn't seem like enough to me. I may just go ahead and replace them with Eibachs. I loved them on my '76 S30.


Ordered a new intake/exhaust gasket since the one I had delaminated when I removed the manifolds.


Purchased a new Treadstone intercooler because I was unhappy with the fit of the AVO intercooler. It is a couple of inches too wide and i don't want to hack up the radiator cross brace.


Picked up a cheap set of Miata seats. Gonna have them recovered.


Things to do in the near future:


  1. Drill and tap the head above #3/4 exhaust ports per the Head Cooling thread.
  2. Drill out and tap the rear heater hose mounting boss for knock sensor mounting.
  3. Clean the pintle cap pieces out of the head - blow out with brake parts cleaner or compressed air
  4. Re-install head and verify cam timing (again)
  5. Test fit the new RC injectors and fuel rail. Adjust the fuel rail brackets if necessary.
  6. Maybe do a little bit more exhaust manifold porting
  7. Install Intake and exhaust manifolds
  8. Install fuel injectors and fuel rail
  9. Install oil pan and oil pick-up.
  10. Purchase and route turbo drain hoses
  11. Purchase and route turbo coolant and oil feed and drain lines
  12. Purchase and route head coolant bypass lines.
  13. Grind down the McKinney shifter mounts for more clearance to the transmission tunnel
  14. Slot the McKinney Z32 gearbox mounting holes. The McKinney motor mounts pulled the engine a little more forward.
  15. Run/bend the fuel lines
  16. Reinstall the engine/transmission
  17. Mount Fuel pump, FPR and filters
  18. Run intercooler piping
  19. Mount intercooler
  20. Grind down the 240SX damper bolt to prevent bottoming out in the crank
  21. Install damper and modified damper bolt and fat Volvo washer. Torque to
  22. Wire up the ECU
  23. Install differential
  24. Install drive shaft
  25. Install Z31 half shafts
  26. Remove front LCA's to shave off the tips closest to the Arizona Zcar brake disks. There is very little clearance even after grinding down on-car.
  27. Install Z Car Customs - JDM adjustable T/C Rods
  28. Install crank case vent hose and catch can
  29. Modify and install CS144 alternator
  30. Install headlight relays and H4 headlights
  31. Fix floor pan rust hole
  32. Install sound deading
  33. Reinstall interior
  34. Install Miata seats. Check fit the seating position first before I spend $ on covers.
  35. and so on...will it ever end?? probably not :)

Pictures to follow. My son is hogging my desktop where my pictures are stored. I can access them remotely but can't resize them properly on my old school T42 (don't have the software). I'm rambling.

Edited by rossman

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Pictures as promised.


The deck. Some copper coat and gasket coating remains.

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The head. You can see some of the graphite gasket still stuck to the the face.

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The metal head gasket still stuck to the head

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A close up of the combustion chamber. The silver valve is a custom over sized stainless valve. It looks like there may be some slight detonation damage in it's former service life

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A comparison of the two injectors. These are 3000GT injectors. They are the right size for 11mm fuel rails and stock S30/S130 injector o-rings.

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You can barely see the plastic junk near the valve seat.

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Miata Seat

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Treadstone Intercooler with opposite facing end tanks.

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Threaded block breather hole

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Threaded coolant bypass

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Z Car Customs - JDM adjustable T/C rod

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post-3218-018754800 1300159698_thumb.jpg

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Got the engine and head almost ready to go. Need to tap the block for a knock sensor. Had to order a new tap.


Meanwhile, I started working on the fuel lines. Created a new thread in the fuel delivery section: http://forums.hybrid...015#entry934015

Edited by rossman

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Been working on the car this weekend. I've mocked up the Fuel Pump mount on my Modern Motorsports LCA cross member (the one that goes across the differential). I think it's going to work out good. Once I'm completely happy with the mount then I'll finish running the fuel line. I also want to get the differential back in to check for clearance before I put the final bends on fuel line.




Got tired of laying on my back so I started re-assembling my engine. The intake and exhaust are installed and torqued. Started running coolant bypass lines. I had a thermostat spacer made to connect all the bypass lines. I've got three of the five run. #2 runs under the injectors. It's going to look pretty good but it is a b*tch to work on due to limited volume in the area. I hope I don't have any leaks!







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I've been making slow but steady progress on the car. All of the steps above (post 41) are complete up to #16 and then some. All of the suspension is back on the car. The hard fuel lines are complete (see link above). The differential is back on. Brake proportioning valve and line lock is installed. Still need to fab a bracket. Brakes lines are all hooked up and bled.


I purchased one of Austin Hoke's Z32 shifter bracket. Its high quality and quite a bit more compact than the McKinney bracket. The 240z tunnel is tight and my fuel lines are huge. I need every bit of clearance I can get!


I test fit the Z31 axles. The drivers side axle is too long...big surprise :). Luckily JMortensen's is producing custom CV axles for this exact issue. At the same time though I've been considered just grinding off the end of the axle at the wheel end. I would remove just enough to prevent binding plus a little clearance for bushing compression. It appears to me that the axle is compressed so much that there will always be full spline engagement with the cage. This extra length of splined shaft is what I'm proposing to remove. Someone please stop me if this is a bad idea.


My next goal is to get the engine back into the car this next weekend...labor day weekend. Its gonna take a lot of beer to bribe my buddy into helping me. :)

Edited by rossman

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Some significant progress was made over the Labor Day holiday weekend. The pictures pretty much speak for themselves. Yes, the intercooler piping clears the hood :). I checked and there is at least .5 inches of clearance. This arrangement relieves congestion around the air filter, compressor and stock cooling fan...all of which I want to keep. The downside is that it's slightly more pipe volume than the typical around the front arrangement. The missing pieces are on order and should arrive before the weekend. The last major piece I need to order is the alternator. The plan is to adapt a CS144 GM alternator.





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Because the compressor and charge pipe would make this area is very tight.




I want to get a decent size filter going to the turbo inlet while keeping my air conditioner. No air con makes for unpleasant drives during the summer in south Texas. :) I'm not worried about drag from the fan it should be minimal, besides, you get drag on the alternator pulley while a high current electric fan is running. Of course, this could all change after I drive the car a bit. I reserve the right to change my mind later :).

Edited by rossman

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