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S-30 Door Interchange

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#21 langfordchuck



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Posted 27 February 2010 - 05:07 PM

Of course, it goes without saying that for us 2/2 owners none of this applies, we are stuck with the limited number of parts and wrecked z's that are 2/2... I suppose that this just gives us more incentive to repair and resurrect our cars. having said that i am sure the internal parts and strikers etc interchange, so all is not lost.

This is an interesting topic for those of us that were fortunate enough to wind up with the 74s.
I've located an early 74 with a good set of doors complete with regulators and glass.
I'll be able to inform as to the fit on my late 74 soon.

'74 260 2+2
1949 Studebaker Pickup
1960 Mercedes 190D
1986 Toyota MR2 (new toy)
1995 Mercedes 280C (dd)

#22 DuoWing



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Posted 10 October 2011 - 08:40 AM

I know this is a little old, but I'm glad I found this. My passenger door has been missing the lock cylinder, I bought new ones and upon removing the driver's side I was able to see that someone clearly tried to remove the lock from the passenger side by yanking it or beating it out from the outside of the door, as the metal is all bent up around that. I also no longer have the retaining clip, or the arm that connects to the lock cylinder for the passenger door. So I hope to find some doors that don't have the side molding trim on them. Now that I know I have the range of 70-76 to look for that makes life easier.
1976 Datsun 280ZT
2008 Mazda 3 GT

#23 nacitar



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Posted 24 August 2012 - 11:24 AM

Not only that, but the actual frame in the chassis is slightly different. Meaning the door won't seal properly if you manage to fit one door a non fitting chassis.

The hinges will fit without any problems, and you can even get the to "fit" along the body lines.

My first Z had a 75 door on a 78 chassis, pretty much is the cause of my floors disappearing before the previous owner gave it to me :P

Is this actually true? This is the only time I've ever heard of the doors fitting differently.

#24 Denz



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Posted 09 October 2012 - 08:08 AM

Got some pics for ya.

The orange one is the early series one 1970 240-Z VIN 2848
The white car is a ’75 which has the same door as the ’76.
The pinkish/Maroon car is a ’77.

Hinges for all doors appear to be the same in the same locations.
Body Strikers. Orange = ’70. White = ’75, Maroon = ‘77
Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image

Door Strikers. Orange = ’70. White = ’75, Maroon = ‘77
Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image

’77 door with panel removed. Note the 4 MAGENTA circles. That is the ’77-’78 window track adjusters. The MAGENTA Arrow on the window crank points to the early crank location, pre’77. The GREEN circle shows one of many new lock revisions and the GREEN arrow points to the earlier door lock location.

Posted Image

Hope this helps,

Hi Paul,
I am new to this form and wanted to ask a door hinge question. I have a 76 Z and the door hinge pops and knocks real bad when opening the drivers door. Looks like the hinge rides on a bushing that might be worn out. I have cleaned and lubed everything. Any sugestions on how to fix this?


#25 socorob


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Posted 06 May 2013 - 06:39 AM



There are instructions here on how to rebuild them.

1978 280Z - LS1, Improved racing oil pan baffle, JTR Headers, Johns Cars Mounts, JTR intake - T56, MGW shifter-GM cruise control - Infiniti Q45 R200 diff - Techno Toy Tuning suspension with Konis front and rear - Vintage Air Compac - Z32 rear brakes - Q45 rear hubs - Lizard Skin sound and heat - 2003-2004 G35 wheels - 86 Z31 front hubs, Modern Motorsports rotor adapter, 86 Z31 front rotors, Toyota calipers - 2002 Miata seats ...in progress so far. http://forums.hybrid...to-ls1-t56-ttt/

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