DETurbine

Just got done actually swapping bellhousings. Might want to include that you have to remove the check ball plug, spring, check ball, and then interlock stopper. Here is the direct link to to what I am talking about: http://300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=mt&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=12&design=default&total=37 Also...I don't see why you would have to remove the two pins from the shift and selector lever and the pin from the striking arm......I would imagine that those are only if you are taking the rear housing out as well, but for those that are taking just the bell housing I would leave those alone. I punched them out, but didn't see how they helped one bit.

Very nice write-up and you had me on a scare for a few minutes. I have a blown RB25 transmission which both 3rd and 4th gear syncro's went out and I purchased an 5spd. Z32 transmission and compared both bellhousing and bolt patterns and was pretty positive that it would switch right over....nice to hear that you think there wouldn't be a problem with that either. Great information. If no one gets to it first I will let you know if I run into any problems with the RB25/Z32 bell housing conversion and the pilot bearing.

Very nice setup....Is that the Z32 transmission you are running? Did you just bolt the RB26 or RB25 bellhousing up? I currently have the Z32 transmission and will be swapping over my RB25 bellhousing up to it. From the looks of it, it looked like it wouldn't have any problems switching over. Did you run into any trouble doing that?

Did you have to do any modification to the firewall in order to fit the 26 in there?....looks nice.

I currently have a RB25 in my S13, recently the transmissions 3/4th syncro has started to grind almost every shift and will either have to be replaced or I will have to get a whole complete tranny. The syncro itself for the RB25 is going to be $180, but I also have found a 300zx NA tranny for $170 and have heard stories before saying that it will work, just have to take the RB25 bell housing and convert it. The only problem I can see if it will work is that the shifter location on the RB25 in my 240sx right now sits far back (pretty much boarder line with the shifter whole) and the RB25 has a top mount shifter while the 300zx shifter is in the back of the tranny. Help would be greaty thankful.

Sorry, I tried to put this up on the classifieds section of the site, but would not work. I have a set of brand new HKS cam gears for sell. They are for the RB20/25/26. Retial on them are $380. I am selling them for $285 shipped. If interested, email me at: DETurbine@hotmail.com Thanks, Zach

Wow, very nice. What mods did you have at the time when you ran that? I see in your sig, that you have a T88-34d, was it on when you did that run?

Is it in perfect working condition? If you can get it to me in Omaha, NE 68116....for $1500, then you can consider it sold. Let me know, Very interested in it.

ok thanks. My second question is does anyone know what size the stock head gasket it?

I just needed to know the hex key size of the studs in the head. I tried a 10mm, but it was to small. Problem is that once hex keys get over 10mm they are hard to find around here (pretty much two places to get them maybe) and my car is at a friends garage which is in the country 30min away and they have no good parts store, so I just wanted to make sure what size they are, so I don't end up wasting anothering hour and a half running back and getting one. I am pretty sure it is a 12mm, but just wanted check first. If you could let me know that would be great. Zach

By that statement I meant that he was telling me that once most engines gain a certian power level then the timing actually starts to adjust itself to the correct settings.

Just curious if anyone is running the Mega Squirt on their RB20/25/26? I know that Mega Squirt doesn't have the option and ability to tune distributorless motors yet (from what I have researched), but I have heard that they might with the new software. This is the route that I will be going for my RB25DET, since it is a great system and cheap ($250). Have been talking to my friend whom is knowledgeable with piggybacks and so on and he was thinking of keeping my stock ecu in the car and just running the MS as a piggyback. He told me that even if they do not come out with the new software for the distributorless motors, that the stock ecu should correct it's timing and we can just adjust the fuel, knock, boost, two step, etc from the MS. Just wanted to know your guys opinion on what I plan on doing with this and if you guys know of any other news on the ignition (for distributorless motors), or any other way that I might be able to control my ignition. Also is he right when he says that once you get to a certain power level, that the ecu's actually starts to correct itself and we will not have to worry about it really? Zach

I will in the near future, Just wanted to hear everyones elses experiance with doing this. As long as I get the proper spring rate and get some decent amounts of boost running through it, I should be fine, since the wastegate will not have to release as much gas pressure as it would at lower boost levels.

Ok I was curious to see how well the Tial 38mm are holding up for everyone pushing decent amounts of boost through it. I am getting a SC61/63 and will be boosting it to around 20-25psi (hopefully around 500hp) and wanted to know if the 38mm will be able to support it.

Thanks for the reply guys. I am sure it is a piston that gave out (#6), but I have a feeling that I cracked the rest of the ring lands on all the other five. Same thing happend to my friends RB26. I just hope that a build up of pressure did not get down into my crank case and cause damage to anything else. I went over there last night to check out a few things and checked the dipstick and there was no oil that was shot out of it, so hopefully that is a good enough sign to show that there was not that much pressure in the case. Normally even when pressure it build up in there, it does no damage to the rods. I am going to get my rods machined and checked and also turn the crank as well. Really hoping that I will have to do nothing to the head. Just really sucks not knowing what damage it really did and am not going to know for at least another 3-4 days. Oh well have waited this long, so a few more days is not going to hurt. Going to take me another 30min to pull the motor out (just the two mounts and tranny mounts left) then probably an hour to hour and a half to get my tranny off, motor on a stand and head and oil pan off as well, then will be able to see what went on. I will keep you guys updated, Zach