DETurbine

Just got done actually swapping bellhousings. Might want to include that you have to remove the check ball plug, spring, check ball, and then interlock stopper. Here is the direct link to to what I am talking about: http://300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=mt&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=12&design=default&total=37 Also...I don't see why you would have to remove the two pins from the shift and selector lever and the pin from the striking arm......I would imagine that those are only if you are taking the rear housing out as well, but for those that are taking just the bell housing I would leave those alone. I punched them out, but didn't see how they helped one bit.

Very nice write-up and you had me on a scare for a few minutes. I have a blown RB25 transmission which both 3rd and 4th gear syncro's went out and I purchased an 5spd. Z32 transmission and compared both bellhousing and bolt patterns and was pretty positive that it would switch right over....nice to hear that you think there wouldn't be a problem with that either. Great information. If no one gets to it first I will let you know if I run into any problems with the RB25/Z32 bell housing conversion and the pilot bearing.

Very nice setup....Is that the Z32 transmission you are running? Did you just bolt the RB26 or RB25 bellhousing up? I currently have the Z32 transmission and will be swapping over my RB25 bellhousing up to it. From the looks of it, it looked like it wouldn't have any problems switching over. Did you run into any trouble doing that?

Did you have to do any modification to the firewall in order to fit the 26 in there?....looks nice.

I currently have a RB25 in my S13, recently the transmissions 3/4th syncro has started to grind almost every shift and will either have to be replaced or I will have to get a whole complete tranny. The syncro itself for the RB25 is going to be $180, but I also have found a 300zx NA tranny for $170 and have heard stories before saying that it will work, just have to take the RB25 bell housing and convert it. The only problem I can see if it will work is that the shifter location on the RB25 in my 240sx right now sits far back (pretty much boarder line with the shifter whole) and the RB25 has a top mount shifter while the 300zx shifter is in the back of the tranny. Help would be greaty thankful.

Sorry, I tried to put this up on the classifieds section of the site, but would not work. I have a set of brand new HKS cam gears for sell. They are for the RB20/25/26. Retial on them are $380. I am selling them for $285 shipped. If interested, email me at: DETurbine@hotmail.com Thanks, Zach

Wow, very nice. What mods did you have at the time when you ran that? I see in your sig, that you have a T88-34d, was it on when you did that run?

Is it in perfect working condition? If you can get it to me in Omaha, NE 68116....for $1500, then you can consider it sold. Let me know, Very interested in it.

ok thanks. My second question is does anyone know what size the stock head gasket it?

I just needed to know the hex key size of the studs in the head. I tried a 10mm, but it was to small. Problem is that once hex keys get over 10mm they are hard to find around here (pretty much two places to get them maybe) and my car is at a friends garage which is in the country 30min away and they have no good parts store, so I just wanted to make sure what size they are, so I don't end up wasting anothering hour and a half running back and getting one. I am pretty sure it is a 12mm, but just wanted check first. If you could let me know that would be great. Zach

By that statement I meant that he was telling me that once most engines gain a certian power level then the timing actually starts to adjust itself to the correct settings.

Just curious if anyone is running the Mega Squirt on their RB20/25/26? I know that Mega Squirt doesn't have the option and ability to tune distributorless motors yet (from what I have researched), but I have heard that they might with the new software. This is the route that I will be going for my RB25DET, since it is a great system and cheap ($250). Have been talking to my friend whom is knowledgeable with piggybacks and so on and he was thinking of keeping my stock ecu in the car and just running the MS as a piggyback. He told me that even if they do not come out with the new software for the distributorless motors, that the stock ecu should correct it's timing and we can just adjust the fuel, knock, boost, two step, etc from the MS. Just wanted to know your guys opinion on what I plan on doing with this and if you guys know of any other news on the ignition (for distributorless motors), or any other way that I might be able to control my ignition. Also is he right when he says that once you get to a certain power level, that the ecu's actually starts to correct itself and we will not have to worry about it really? Zach

I will in the near future, Just wanted to hear everyones elses experiance with doing this. As long as I get the proper spring rate and get some decent amounts of boost running through it, I should be fine, since the wastegate will not have to release as much gas pressure as it would at lower boost levels.

Ok I was curious to see how well the Tial 38mm are holding up for everyone pushing decent amounts of boost through it. I am getting a SC61/63 and will be boosting it to around 20-25psi (hopefully around 500hp) and wanted to know if the 38mm will be able to support it.

Thanks for the reply guys. I am sure it is a piston that gave out (#6), but I have a feeling that I cracked the rest of the ring lands on all the other five. Same thing happend to my friends RB26. I just hope that a build up of pressure did not get down into my crank case and cause damage to anything else. I went over there last night to check out a few things and checked the dipstick and there was no oil that was shot out of it, so hopefully that is a good enough sign to show that there was not that much pressure in the case. Normally even when pressure it build up in there, it does no damage to the rods. I am going to get my rods machined and checked and also turn the crank as well. Really hoping that I will have to do nothing to the head. Just really sucks not knowing what damage it really did and am not going to know for at least another 3-4 days. Oh well have waited this long, so a few more days is not going to hurt. Going to take me another 30min to pull the motor out (just the two mounts and tranny mounts left) then probably an hour to hour and a half to get my tranny off, motor on a stand and head and oil pan off as well, then will be able to see what went on. I will keep you guys updated, Zach

Looking really nice. What mounts are you using?

I am still running the stock turbo and all the stock piping, including the stock SMIC. Where does the crankcase vent to the turbo inlet and how would that have happened?.....would there be any other damage to the block if that was the case?

The turbo went out for sure, so there was oil getting burned up, but not sure if it was all oil or coolant and oil as well. I know compresion can be lost on just one cylinder from a head gasket, but the compression was low on all of them. Average compression for the RB25DET should be 174psi, but the first five cylinders were at 110 and cylinder number 6 was at 25psi, I just didn't know if it was likely to loose an equal amount of compression on all the rest of the five cylinders if a head gasket were to go out. I am also thinking it is the ring or ring lands, just thought maybe it could possibly be a head gasket instead. Thanks for your guys input.

Well it is finally time to see what is wrong with my motor (RB25DET). Ending of last summer I was tunning my car with my new Nismo FPR and while in the process of doing some test pulls blew my motor. I gave it a pull and noticed an dramatic power loss followed by smoke pouring out my exhaust. I then took it back to my friends house (a few blocks away) and opened the hook to see oil sprayed on the side of my strut tower (shot out from my HKS BOV). We then did a compression check on it and it was as followed....first 5 were about 110psi and cylinder #6 was only 25psi. We looked into the cylinders through the spark plug wholes and noticed quite a bit of oil in the cylinders, especially #6. I took the intake piping and intercooler off and it was drenched in oil. A few days later we start it again and start to notice that it is making a sputtering/ knocking kind of noise (not sure if it was really knocking, to me it sounded like more of a compression sputtering noise). I am not sure what the problem is and wanted your guys opinion on what it could be. I am going to do a leak-down on it at the end of this week to narrow it down and hopefully find out what the problem is for sure. Just wanted to see what you guys thought before I did that. When it blew I noticed a dramatic power loss and it seemed like blueish/white smoke. I did not notice if the water temp was climbing or not, since his place was only two blocks away. Before this had happened I have always noticed oil coming out of the turbo, so I am sure that is where the oil came from and probably totally gave out when I turned up the boost to 14psi on that test run. I took my top section of the intake manifold off a few months back and noticed that there were puddles of oil down the gallies. I am really hoping that it could be the head gasket, but something is telling me since the compression test was an even 110 (almost all the way through) except #6 (25psi) that it is probably the rings or ring lands...or can a head gasket have that same compression test result?. Let me know what you guys are thinking if you could. Thanks, Zach

Well it is about that time to tare my motor out of my car (have an RB25DET (Inline 6 clyinder)) and start disassembling it. Last summer I lost compression by leaning it out a little to much and a few other issues that caused it to give out. Did a compression check on it and it was as followed (starting at cyl.1 down the line to #6): 110,110,111,110,110, 25. There is oil inside the intake, intercooler, piping, and down the intake manifold into the head. I am thinking that it is either the rings or lands, probably most likely the lands, I am ready to finally tare it out of the car (got the wiring, turbo, intake manifold, and hoses off), just need to take off the tranny mount and cross member and it is out. I will then disassemble it and see what happened. Any other way I am thinking that I am going to have to get new pistons, so I am going to order up some 87mm Wiseco's here pretty soon. Is there anyone that has taken there motor to a machine shop of have any friends that have? I am trying to get a ruff price together to see how much it is going to cost me. Here is what I need to have them do: 1. Mill the head (which I need them to disassemble the head to get the valves out).($60/hour) 2. Bore the block (I will disassemble the block myself).($180 is their price to bore out a 6cyl.) 3. Assemble the block back together with forged pistons. ($60/hour) 4. Check the clearance of everything on the block (pistons, bearings, etc...).($60/hour) 5. Put together the head ($60/hour) 6. Check the clearance of the valves. ($60/hour) I just wanted to get a ruff estimate on what the following 6 jobs will cost me. I am not sure on how long it will take them to do all those and that is why I am asking you guys, because they are not even sure. Thanks, Zach

Well it is about that time to tare my motor out of my car (have an RB25DET (Inline 6 clyinder)) and start disassembling it. Last summer I lost compression by leaning it out a little to much and a few other issues that caused it to give out. Did a compression check on it and it was as followed (starting at cyl.1 down the line to #6): 110,110,111,110,110, 25. There is oil inside the intake, intercooler, piping, and down the intake manifold into the head. I am thinking that it is either the rings or lands, probably most likely the lands, I am ready to finally tare it out of the car (got the wiring, turbo, intake manifold, and hoses off), just need to take off the tranny mount and cross member and it is out. I will then disassemble it and see what happened. Any other way I am thinking that I am going to have to get new pistons, so I am going to order up some 87mm Wiseco's here pretty soon. Is there anyone that has taken there motor to a machine shop of have any friends that have? I am trying to get a ruff price together to see how much it is going to cost me. Here is what I need to have them do: 1. Mill the head (which I need them to disassemble the head to get the valves out).($60/hour) 2. Bore the block (I will disassemble the block myself).($180 is their price to bore out a 6cyl.) 3. Assemble the block back together with forged pistons. ($60/hour) 4. Check the clearance of everything on the block (pistons, bearings, etc...).($60/hour) 5. Put together the head ($60/hour) 6. Check the clearance of the valves. ($60/hour) I just wanted to get a ruff estimate on what the following 6 jobs will cost me. I am not sure on how long it will take them to do all those and that is why I am asking you guys, because they are not even sure. Thanks, Zach

Just want to know everyone opinion on what they think my car and setup is worth....I just am trying do decide what I want to do once I am done, keep in or sell it and do my one of my dream projects. Most RB25 setups like I will have will go for $10k+

Just give me your guys opinion on what you think my car might be worth once it is done.... I am going under consideration of doing another project and if I decide to do it I will be selling my car this up coming fall once it is all done, running, and tuned. My car is not yet done and will not be done until this late spring/ early summer. I have already done the swap, but am putting some extras into it for some more power. I will include pictures of my old setup just so you guys get an idea of my car and how clean I keep it and the motor. Once I am done I expect 450-500hp out of it, so just consider my car to have that much when making the value of it. Thanks for the help. CHASSIS: S13 240sx (1990 240sx fastback) MOTOR / INSTALL MODS: RB25DET SII (only 35k when rebuilt) Greddy 1.2mm metal head gasket Wiseco 86.5mm pistons w/rings ARP headstuds HKS cam gears Stock R33 cross-member w/ aluminum spacers plates One piece driveshaft Dual fans w/ performance automatic OEM radiator. Stock manifold w/ adapter piece for external wastegate. Precision SC61 turbo 38mm Tial wastegate JR 8x31x3 FMIC Walbro 255 fuel pump 800cc top feed injectors GTR fuel rail Apex'i GTspec exhuast (3.74inch) Project Nissan 3inch test pipe. Custom 3inch down-pipe. TRANNY/ LSD: ACT HD 2100 pressure plate ACT 6puck disk. New OEM slave cyl. Aluminum spacers/adapter with reversed tranny mount. R200 VLSD w/ 180sx output shafts. ELECTRICAL / ECU: Mega Squirt piggyback Z32 MAF AutoMeter CF gauges (water temp., oil pressure, boost) INTERIOR & EXTERIOR: S14 seats Momo Steering wheel with Nardi hub. HKS middle console 3 gauge holder (under cd player) AutoMeter 2 gauge pillar holder Greddy Shift knob Black interior JVC cd player Pionier speakers (4) DOHC (91-94) Front bumper w/OEM lip. EastBear 180sx wing SUSPENSION & BRAKES: AGX shocks (4 way front/8 way rears) w/ sportline springs Steel braided brake lines Cross drilled front rotors Axis brake pads RIMS / WHEELS: Work VS-XX (Gold w/ polish lip) (17x7.5 front/ 17x8.5 rear) Nitto 455's (225) front/ Nitto 555's (255) rear Here are the pictures. First one is photoshoped with the rims on there. The rims will be on there once the motor is done. The other pictures are of my car mid summer:

Is there no one else?. I know I have seen a few others off this forum, but was thinking that their was allot more RB Z's on here.

I am curious of how many people actually have an RB in their Z or any other car. I have an RB25DET in my S13 180sx, but am getting very interested in doing one into a 240z-260z (lighter chassis). Just wanted to see everyones setup and times if you have them.