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It was a good idea not to wait on rebuilding the 3.54 diff. The new LSD arrived weeks after I expected it and there's no shot I would have been able to swap it into the spare R200 before my trip. I'm excited to get this together in the winter though!

The hairlines weren't that bad, it was the handful that were going through the edge of the rotor that I was worried about. Friday marked my first return to the track in almost 2 years. Knocked off a bunch of rust, the car worked the whole time, and I made a couple changes that were impactful and improved the car. I went pretty slow, so y'all could enjoy some v8 sounds for longer than normal

People's Choice at a small cars and coffee in town this weekend. Brakes feel really good. It's weird feeling how firm the pedal is compared to the originals now that it's all stainless hoses and the rear has been upgraded. Even the parking brake is better than I expected! Getting wheels balanced today - I know for a fact one had a couple weights knocked off, I can see where the adhesive was, and I'm still upset about how many weights they used to balance one corner. Someone wasn't doing their job right when they mounted the tires I think, because there's no way you need two long strips on opposite sides to get a wheel balanced.

Those hairline rotor cracks are common when running giant rotors. Even though you are getting very little rotor wear due to the size of the brakes, the heat cycling eventually forms the cracks. I've ran them on track probably about twice as bad as your pictures.

Started learning to weld, here’s my first tries last weekend and through today, about ready to weld on the car. Going to practice on some thinner stuff first to get more practice.

lol you are correct sir.... I checked the wheel bearing and there were alittle loose on the driver side [normalish] but the pass side didnt feel right [probly needs new bearing} but I got it tightened up and took it for a drive..... night and day diffence. Ive been working on everything else it didnt even occur to me to check. so thank you.

Sounds like front wheel bearings. Your tires will wear out faster also.

Someone got the canister off an old Nissan truck, I think a Frontier. It was newer and looked exactly the same. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1002271&cc=1211050&pt=5180&jsn=606 Maybe it was off an early 90s truck?

Wanted to give an update. she is fixed. It was the bosch 124 ignition module. The ground had corrosion under the connecter at the chassis ground and replaced the module. Also it now has a keyway in the ati underdrive pully and Im getting ready to install kameari twin idler and their perfromance oil pump.... I already installed the adjustable cam gear. she pulls really hard as its climing past 6k. I havent had the guts to keep my foot in it much past 6k but there really isnt any need to rev much higher anyway. mods list sense last post cylinder head.... I did more port matching and cc matched the combustion cambers had the head decked alittle more.... and I unshrouded the valves and polished the combution chambers.... also port matched the intake to the head/intake gasket hx35 now has a billet compressor wheel 2010 sti diff installed only problems Im having at the moment is when driving the car it wants to follow the grooves in the road but on flat road it drives perfect and the alternater doesnt charge under 2k rpm because of the ati underdrive pulley alignment settings are 2.5 camber 6 caster 1/8 toe in ride height 6in 17in rims 245 40 17 kumo v730 next im probly going to replace a the u joints but shes boosting and driving great.

07-25-2025. I had a couple hours today, so I decided to see if the radiator would bolt in. Since June of 2021 I have been building my Z car. This is FIRST aftermarket part EVER to bolt right in. I didn't have to mod it at all. I was speechless. Granted, swapping the fans out to the SPAL fans required drilling and playing with it to get it done. However, I was able to drop the radiator and the fan should assembly right in. It is still loose, but it is there, hoses on, loose, but the idea today was......with a little time to see how far I could get it together, it literally just fell together. So "cubauto" on Amazon, there radiator for our Z cars goes right in! Now, the overflow tube on the cap was put on crooked, so I have to live with that, that is the only negative in an overall very nice looking package. Because of the size of my remaining port on the thermostat housing, using a sensor to turn the fans on and off isn't going to work. Being that my Z is just an around town toy, I will be turning the fans on and off via toggle switch. The remaining switch is 20A rated, but I ordered a switch that externally looks the same but is 30A rated to swap in. I will be feeding both fans with 10 gauge wire which is 30A rated and will forgo using a relay. 30 fA use and it will be basic, clean, and work. I swapped out the 19 lb radiator cap for the facotry 13 lb one for now. Pics follow. Good few hours today! Cheers!

And finally the new cold air intake I 3d printed in nylon/cf

Finally we took some POR15 chassis black and painted the exposed metal. Under the flares it looks almost invisible.

For the front's we bent a length of 3/16 rod and tack welded it in place. This stiffens the fender back to OEM or better. I have seen a cut fender wrinkle before when doing hot laps on a track. Weld and grind smooth.

Have you tried clocking it any? There is an area of the stroke that it won't work in.

The car I had planned to do this on was going to run very low, so all the suspension pick-up points were raised 2+ inches. The upper mount was a plate that bolted into the upper strut mount and used an 8-inch-long jack bolt with a clevis for the top of the shock to bolt to. The tube holding the jack bolt would have a sheet metal bracket supporting the end of the threaded section, or I'd extend the cage tubes directly into this to make the mount stiffer. That was work still left to do. I have some Penske 7350 Base valve shocks (eBay specials) that I planned to revalve. These have 7 inches of travel, but I didn't plan to use all that, and are very long. This has now been on the back burner while I try and deal with some back health issues. I also have a street car that I want to finish and I have been looking at doing a-arms but using a bolt-in solution to not destroy any value the car may have. So I have been thinking about this more lately, which is why your post has piqued my interest.

10 bucks this guy is selling because his wife gave him an ultimatum. There is absolutely no reason to sell one having done this much work.

I've been doing the best I can on FB to try and encourage people the return to the forums to no avail. The general attitude is, and I quote, "too cumbersome". People would rather have the wrong answer in a hurry than the right answer that takes a little work. There are so many FB groups for the S30 that there is no way to get any kind of quality answers. I don't know how many times I could of contributed to someones question but didn't because I knew the answer was easily found on one of the three forums. You are starting to see that AI is burrowing its way into the FB groups as well. Sad times these are.