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Gavin

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Posts posted by Gavin

  1. I am actually just assuming I am loosing coolant. I suppose it could be leaking back into the res from the cap, but thats new as well. I've had a hard time keeping track as I have been pulling apart the cooling system trying to find a leak. I'll monitor that more closely.

     

    I don't think I have a blown head gasket because no its not smoking and the coolant looks good.

     

    EDIT - Whoa.. Or could it be overheating, vomiting steam into the res and therefore appearing to loose pressure? maybe

  2. I found that when my engine reaches peak temp (still almost 200 on a more normal day), coolant pressure is low. When I first warm it up the hose is nice and firm but after driving for a long period theres almost no pressure and I can open the cap with it overheated.

     

    So, looks like its weeping from somewhere, less you guys have another idea.

     

    Please dont suggest its the head gasket, because I know it could be,

    And the engine only has 20k miles...

     

    Ugh.....

  3. Hmm. Do you have the AC condenser installed? I also have an FMIC and oil cooler v-mounted in front of everything. I have a pusher fan from Summit and a Perma-Cool puller. Dont remember the dimensions off hand.

     

    intercooler.jpg

    fan.jpg

     

    The thermostat was recently replaced, but I could change it out for a colder one. Could it be my water pump? I installed a new one when I put the solid lifter engine in and it seemed cheaper then the one I took off. The impeller on the new one was not cast but instead basically cut and shaped from a sheet of metal.

     

    Im trying to get this thing ready for an upcoming track day. It cools down running at speed in clean air, though. Even on the power. So I have high hopes.

  4. What temp does a S130 ZXT reach (when measured from below the thermostat)? According to my MS with a GM CLT mine peaks at 205 deg on this unusually hot 95 degree day here in MA. I understand that this is on the hot side of the engine, but my stock N47 L28 engine with MS doesn't break 185 on the dyno, measured from the same place.

     

    Would you guys say its running abnormally hot?

  5. I prefer OE calipers, is my point

     

    Ok so from what I can tell the easiest that could get it is simply redrilling the stock rotors for 4x114.3 and bolting them on?

     

    So the Z32 TT brakes bolt up?

    280zx lines work?

     

    Will they fit under my swastikas?

     

    Sorry but I have looked and found 0 info, probably because its so simple I guess.

  6. I was suspicious that the problem was something like that, and unfortunately my WBs output to MS crapped out so i cant get a datalog to clearly verify that that wasn't the issue. With the plugs re-gapped though the AFRs are amazingly smooth (at least with the BAT lag factor modified to counter the gremlin I mentioned above.)

  7. Hey guys,

    Got it working by reducing the plug gap to 35 from the NGK recommended 44. My reason for being apprehensive to post this as 'fix' is that I am running stock 8psi boost at the moment, so I don't understand why this would be necessary. I am getting some unusual voltage fluctuations (compared to other cars I've MS'd) even after changing the alternator & going over all connections, and so I'm looking to this as a possible culprit.

     

    Just wanted to at least give an update. Anybody else experiencing something similar?

  8. A REPLY!

     

    The fluctuation isnt even as much as 5 psi, just around 1 up and down maybe.

     

    Fuel pump is new, and the problem occurred before and after changing it. Filter is also new and I have a FP gauge that reads good, which is sourced from just before the rail.

     

    Im going to make a video of the problem happening soon.

     

    Why can I not edit my original post??

  9. I have had an ongoing problem with my 280zx turbo which, despite my best efforts over the last 4 months or so, I just cant pinpoint.

     

    The car is an 83 zxt with the solid-lifter engine. I am using an 83 distributor for my tach input and spark with the stock coil (via VB921). MegaSquirt is a 3.0 board, MSII chip with v 2.86 firmware. Stock injectors and everything, except for an intercooler.

     

    Heres the msq-

    http://homepage.mac.com/gavinwilliams/ZXT.msq

     

    The problem that I am having is that I get sudden and repetitive momentary losses of power (skipping), but only above about 5 psi (~135 kpa). Most of the time this will not happen when the engine is cold, but will start happening when its warm. Other times, it will not happen at all, even after extended driving. And on the rare occasion it has occurred with the engine cold. The MAP signal, and the needle on the boost gauge, jump around rapidly while this is happening.

     

    My fist thought was that it was a boost leak, but I have repeatedly tested this by hooking the system up to my compressor and, despite finding several leaks, the condition didn't change.

     

    I have added ground wires, replaced the spark plug wires and moved them as far as I could from the tach signal wires, replaced the dis cap, rotor, coil, spark plugs, relay board, injectors & wiring... I know there are more things so Ill add to the list as they come to mind.

     

    I have also tried adjusting the Lag Factors in MegaTune.

     

    The MegaSquirt I am using is the same one I have used on my 280z, which it runs flawlessly (mind you, it was NA).

     

    And your all thinking WHAT ABOUT THE DATALOGS!

     

    http://homepage.mac.com/gavinwilliams/Good.xls

    http://homepage.mac.com/gavinwilliams/Bad.xls

     

    Here are datalogs from when the engine is running well and when its having the problem. I cannot see any significant difference between the two, other than that the MAP and to a lesser extent the RPM fluctuate a bit as the problem is happening (>~135kpa) in the Bad datalog. From what I can tell this is the effect and not the cause. What do you guys think? What am I missing?

  10. After replacing the R200 in my 78 280z I'm getting a constant grinding noise.

     

    MY DRIVESHAFT IS NOT RUBBING ON MY HANDBRAKE LINKAGE.

     

    Thought I should get that out of the way to start with..

     

    This is happening at all times that the driveshaft is spinning. It really does sound like it is simply rubbing somewhere, but I have thoroughly looked and its not. If I jack the rear up and let it idle in gear, I can stop either axle by hand and the grinding persists, so its not one of those. If it isnt the diff itself, it sounds like it could be coming from where the driveshaft mates to the transmission.

     

    Does any of this sound familiar to anyone?

    I was thinking I would put some more miles on it, and then change the oil and see how that looks.

     

    Maybe I'll post an audio file.

     

    Thanks,

    Gavin

  11. Would have added this to my previous thread, but I was locked out of it.

     

    I just wanted to report back, the stock pads are completely inadequate for NHIS. I had to take it extremely easy braking in turn 3 and going into the bowl in order for them to be cool enough for the very scary turn 9.

     

    BTW, to jmortensen who basically flamed me and then deleted my last post; not only had I seen the links that you sent me, but the only relevant info (relating to brake PADS) was this:

     

    "The stock Z brakes are adequate for street driving, autox, and drag racing.

    This is especially true if you upgrade the pads to suit your driving. KVR, Porterfield, Hawk, and others make proven pads and shoes for aggressive driving in Z's. "

     

    Which I had seen, but still didn't answer my question at all.

     

    There are worse things than a little redundancy.

     

    So, thanks, and I hope this post might be useful to somebody to some degree.

  12. Your engine will [at least appear to] run fine under a range of fuel mixtures, so a VE table within a wide range will usually run your car pretty well. Using a map from a car with, say, a big cam will for the most part just result in a richer mixture up top and somewhat of a leaner mixture down low - for me, that was a completely acceptable starting point. The problem comes when making up a spark map, since you pretty much cant tune it up without a dyno, and need to have a good ear for detonation.

     

    Heres the spark map I made up for my stock 280z, and its actually so good that I have gotten away with running it for many months now with no problems. I did catch it pinging once when I ran regular gas, but its fine on Special. Because of your smaller displacement, your engine should require slightly less advance, so you may want to take a degree or two out in the higher areas. Other than that, I don't recommend messing with it until its on a dyno, and even before then, take it easy to start out and keep your ears open.

     

    I remember seeing that the L26 has a CR of 8.8:1 like the N42 L28, this is correct, yes? My above statement assumes that.

     

    Heres the map, its really flat and simple, but it runs my car very very well somehow.

    SparkTable.jpg

     

    - EDIT- Why did I think you had a 260z? You should be good to go with that map!

  13. Just got a new motor for my 280zx turbo. The car is an 83 5-speed but my new engine is an 81 auto. I had planned to swap the clutch and flywheel over, but the newer, manual flywheel doesnt fit onto the 81 auto motor.

     

    Do the older motors use a different flywheel?

     

    Or is the part that the flywheel bolts up to different between auto/manual motors?

    Pics-

    81 Auto

    83 Manual

     

    Can that part be changed? or is it part of the crank?

  14. Having a problem with my dad's car - Stock 78 280z.

     

    When the car is at idle, the voltage will have a normal reading ('normal' being the BS ~16v that the gauge typically reads on our cars), but the light on the gauge will be slightly lit. But when I start driving, the gauge lights up completely under acceleration and the needle moves all the way to the right, past 16v. I have replaced the alternator and battery, and also checked the main ground and power to/from the battery.

     

    I'm guessing this is a bad ground somewhere, where should I be looking?

     

    Thanks

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