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About jsteg

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  • Birthday 12/10/1969

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  1. Do you have the rear strut housings/hubs? Pm me if yes
  2. It's always great to hear that another Z is running well. I agree the sound is amazing when its running well and at high RPM. I race my car and the sound is awesome when you hear it bouncing off a wall as you pass by. As mentioned before, these carbs on a Z run better if set slightly rich. The plugs have the right color and engine is happy this way. Good write up for someone in the future. Lots of good pics.
  3. yes and although both are acting different, both could still be moving improperly. As mentioned, would be good to see what needles you have and watch the pistons when you apply throttle. The interesting part is that it backfires out of both carbs. Not a lean condition in just one set of cylinders. (1,2,3 vs 4,5,6) couple other potential culprits. 1) Make sure you have no vaccum leaks and that both Vac and Mech advance is working. I'm sure you have checked this but never hurts to check 3 times. A vac leak is of course going to cause lean cond and not allow and changes you
  4. looking for coilover suspension. Prefer completed assembly in used condition. Let me know what you may have available. Not really looking for a kit but would consider at right price. Used SCCA ITS suspension would be best.
  5. race needles...You have to take the needles out and measure the diameter at various intervals. If you give me your data, I can tell you if you have modified needles. Note that needles are only part of the equation. The quality of the seat needs to be considered. Not something that is usually replaced in a rebuild. Since you mention that they look fatter leads me to believe that they are not race needles. In any case, the video you posted looks very much like a lean condition at quick throttle apply. I assume when you mention happening at mid RPM, you are punching the throttle and get the
  6. I'll post a pic when I get it off the car. We had a 110v welder that I was able to tack it so could drive the car on trailer. The welder wasn't powerful enough to penetrate. Give me a few days and I'll post
  7. anyone have experience racing with the billet axles? Did anyone decide to use the 300M for road racing? They're all pretty expensive vs using the 280z with regular inspection. Broke mine at VIR and trying to decide what to put on the car for the next races.
  8. Hello all, sorry to raise this topic back up. I recently have the same problem on the road race car. Same separation with 280z stub axles. Wondering if anyone has tried to improve the strength. I have thought about welding each on both sides. Any experiences? Has anyone switched to billet in order to eliminate the issue?
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