240Z Turbo
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Posts posted by 240Z Turbo
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used L4N71B on a for drag racing and went ~129mph in the 1/4. Tranny held find, but due to excessive pressure it pushed out the front seal so definitely needs some additional case breathing. Biggest issue was getting someone to build a good converter and options were few and far between. Here is a link to the valve body mods.
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I also have an O5L head that I plan to use for my son's build so thanks for posting the pics. If you can provide some wall measurements for the intake & exhaust ports that would be great. I was the one who posted P90 cross section pics and the link is below.
http://www.eng.famu.fsu.edu/~jthagard/3liter/pics/P90/
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Nice results TimZ!
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God dam!!!!! Do you have a pic of the setup?
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The car actually made more torque, probably over 550ft-lbs @ wheels. The dyno graph below was running 28psi balls rich with no nitrous. At the track I would run ~20psi and spray 125shot. I ran it like this for many years with no issues, but you need to make sure the car is not detonating or it could be disastrous.
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I ran race prepped (peen & polish) 240Z rods making over 500ft-lbs@wheels and trapping 134mph in the quarter. Stock prepped rods are suitable for your goals.
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1.06 a/r T4 TS from ATP on the current setup. Keep in mind that ideally you should pair it with a TS header with dual (separate) gates. You would need to measure exhaust back pressure (EBP) to understand if the housing is sized appropriately for a 2.8L, but for sub 600hp I think it would be a good option. I think ideally you want to see 1.5x boost pressure when measuring EBP.
As a note, the new TS turbine housings from Honeywell are actually sized to have equivalent cross sectional area to an open scroll. So a 1.01 a/r T3 TS would have the same flow as a 1.01 a/r T3 OS.
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That stuff looks almost like the sch-10 stuff that vibrant makes, which I once used on an experimental J-pipe that mounted on a stock late L28 manifold. I welded it with just my MIG, and used 1/2" mild steel for the main flange, and a reused turbo flange from a Subaru up-pipe. I didn't like how close the downpipe was to the firewall, though, so I made the full manifold in question, but that was TIG'd together by a retiree from the airforce. He says it shouldn't crack, but we'll see.
Yes, the EVO manifold is sch10 from Treadstone. The advantage is that you have the ability to get tight radius bends that are not otherwise available with standard 0.065" stainless. For an L28 manifold it would be more suitable since there are space constraints. I also found that short runner manifolds do hella-good for spool on a street car where response is critical. I may suffer on the topend vs a long runner manifold, but I really like the boost response.
On my 2L I make 27.3psi @ 3848rpm with a GTX3576r and 27.4 @4351rpm with a GTX3582r both logged in 3rd gear.
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Could I get away with making my own slip joints, or do I have to buy specially made ones from Burns? Do they have to be an interference fit, or should they be able to move freely? Would a single slip be adequate, or is a double slip joint required? Suppose I put them just off the flanges where they bolt to the head? Or would they pull too far away and cause leaks? I'm new to slip joints on a turbo manifold - Only ones I've seen are leaky ones on N/A headers. Sorry for the gratuitous questions - I'd rather this stuff didn't fail at all, and some mechanic friends are telling me I'm thinking too much about this.
Sweet looking manifold and the design is unique. As others have stated put the slips on the straight legs after the 1-2 merge and 5-6 merge. A single slip can have leakage, but it is not typically audible and more so that you can see carbon blow-by over time. I personally prefer a double slip over single just because and that is what I use on manifolds I fabricate. (sorry Tim
) As a note, the welds look hot so if you didn't use a flux paste or purge you could end up with cracking regardless of slip joints. Also, if this is 0.065" it should be 321SS and not 304SS or it will likely crack.FYI, this was the first 0.065" 304SS twinturbo manifold I made back in 2002, which ended up cracking. So we all learn from our experiences over time.
This is a manifold I made for my EVO in 2012 and it is still going strong after 40K miles. Thick walled 316SS twinscroll with double slip joint.
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FYI, just some pics I saved in the past of various L28 turbo headers. Contact Walker @ www.MPFAB.com and I am sure he can design/build a header for this application for less than $2500.
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Don't post much anymore since selling my Z 12 years ago. Just saw this post and wanted to say thanks to John for his contributions to the community as well as provide condolences to his family.
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Fabricator challenged at adapting round tube to square port. Is there a header flange available here? I thought I recall someone had fabricated one for use in building a tube header.
If you look at the picture below I milled ~0.125" into the flange to allow the round exhaust tube to mate properly. This was using a round port exhaust P90 head, but you can take the same approach with a D-port head such as N42. From there you can just port to smooth the transition as best as possible. Some feel the step is beneficial to reduce effects of reversion. It will be difficult to shape thick walled tubing to fit the port without the necessary tooling.
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engines out of storage....
well, looks like I can't find my Electramotive Tech3R......shoot! here goes another 2k I didn't expect.
The orange car is a 3.2 ltr. , twm, electramotive, zx 5 spd., 4.11 ls in the works......
glad you found it
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I'll give you a call next week because I have a closet full of shiny new RB parts that need a home. Below are some VD results on 93octane comparing the GTX3076r vs GTX3576r on my EVO both using the 1.06 a/r T4 Twin Scroll from ATP with no other changes. While we can debate the hp and torque results because the 35 ran slightly higher boost, what is not debatable is the GTX3576r consistently spooled as fast, if not faster, than the GTX3076r.
Here are some more interesting results when I ran the GTX3076r. Below are results when I ran a Revhard cast manifold using a T3 open scroll housing (0.63a/r and 0.82a/r) vs a short runner twinscroll manifold and the 1.06a/r T4 TS with no other changes. This is more of an argument as to why you should run twinscroll vs open scroll and I should point out the Revhard manifold is not the best design for an open scroll setup.
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Hoover, Good to see you are still involved in the Z community.
When I went from a GTX3076r to a GTX3576r on the EVO I lost no spool and gained 30+hp on the topend using the 1.06a/r T4 TS turbine housing. What is the discplacement of the V6 running the GT30 and did you go from a 3076 to a 3582?
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1.06 A/R is way too big...
Depends on whether it is twin scroll or open scroll. I ran a 1.06a/r T4 TS on my 2.0L EVO and saw 30psi@4K rpm in 3rd gear with a GTX3576r. I currently run a 1.01a/r v-band TS (equivalent to 1.01a/r Open scroll) with a GTX3582r on my 2.0L EVO.
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I would recommend using cold rolled steel for the flange as it has a lower CTE vs SS. Bolt it to a piece of 0.5" steel when welding to keep the flange from warping. Also, if going 0.065" you need to use 321SS as the 304SS will crack. You can get away with 304SS if you use the thicker schedule 10, which is likely a better choice due to space contraints and the tightness of the bends required. Make sure you purge with TIG or use Solar Flux B instead of purging.
As Tim stated, use slip joints or make sure you have plenty of bends to help absorb the thermal expansion to avoid cracking.
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IMO, if you have a properly designed system you would not want to run anything smaller than a 35r on an L6. Turbine wheel efficiency is as important as compressor wheel efficiency when trying to make power. What I see as an issue on the L6 is a lack of exhaust manifolds that are designed for a twinscroll turbine housing to stagger the exhaust pulses and enhance spool. TimZ provided data regarding spool of a 42r for his setup, but that spool would be increased if he were able to utilize a twin scroll exhaust manifold. If TimZ would ever bring his car down to Charlotte I would build him a custom twinscroll turbo header for that 42r.
As an reference, I used to run a GTX3576r with 1.06 a/r T4 TS turbine housing on my 2.0L EVO and it would make 31psi@4156rpm in 3rd gear. Having played around with several twinscroll setups I would not do an OS header on a street car. The pics below are my current setup with GTX3582r with 1.01 a/r v-band TS and 3.5" exhaust.
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i have a bunch of stuff for sale if you PM me.
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Shoot me a pm and I would potentially be willing to help. What ECU do you run and do you have knock sensor / wide band?
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Once you bolt up the transmission, you simply pull the converter forward until it seats on the ringless flexplate. There is a 0.5" gap between the OEM flexplate and the ringless flex plate, which allows sufficient space to install the converter bolt. You then rotate the crank and access the next bolt until you are done.
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Mike, a few things to consider...
- are you using platinum tipped plugs? If so try throwing in a set of copper plugs to see if it makes a difference. We had issues on the TTZR1(LT5) running the stock platinum's at low boost.
- you may want to try a 0.020" gap just to eliminate it being a spark issue.
- I tried adopting late model ZR1 coils on my EVO and I could never get them to work as they broke up under boost with the Haltech. Ended up ditching them for a set Bosch P100-t coils and have no issue(could have a bad coil)
- push comes to shove, you need the ability to log individual cylinder EGTs to see what is happening. One bad cylinder will cause the car to breakup and will drop cylinder EGTs by 300F. I log this stuff on my car and you can see below how a misfire will show up on log as seen below(red). White line is turbo shaft speed.
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I had to dig, but I thought I would provide what information I still have on the swap. If "Zcar?" can get the adapter plate in 0.5" aluminum (I think that was the thickness of my old adapter, Spork can verify) you can then use the following information.
- I used the following company to manufacture the flex plate adapter from steel as well as the ringless flex plate...http://www.wilcap.com/
- Below is a picture of the flex plate adapter and here is the drawing file name "flexplate_adapter.prt.4" in the following folder...http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/3liter/pics/trannyadapter/ (please verify it is the same dimensions as the picture below)
- Use the above folder to see the pictures for how the setup was installed, which I will show below...
Flex Plate adapter
First step was to install the adapter...
Next install the OEM flywheel, which I think was from a maxima
I then installed the flexplate adapter
I then installed the Wilcap flex plate
At this point the back of the L28 will mirror a Chevy engine so you can use off the shelf converters and transmissions.
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Here is a back to back of the GTX3076r(green) vs the GTX3576r(red) on my EVO IX, which is a 2L. The turbine housing used for this data is the ATP 1.06 a/r T4 TS units and these results are on 93octane. You can see the larger turbine wheel resulted in no lose in spool and an increase in hp at the top.
) As a note, the welds look hot so if you didn't use a flux paste or purge you could end up with cracking regardless of slip joints. Also, if this is 0.065" it should be 321SS and not 304SS or it will likely crack.
Tooth wheel fitment and thick heavy spacer on crank pulley - problem?
in Nissan L6 Forum
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If the trigger wheel is larger in diameter vs the pulley you can machine the backside of the pulley to attach the trigger wheel. This is how I did it several times in the past with no issue.