240Z Turbo
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Posts posted by 240Z Turbo
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read the small print on them... they could have been made by three midgets in a circus and I would have still bought them..... cause I like them.
Indeed...Just FYI
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According to my distributor those are not made by Garrett.
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I'm using the HKS GT2540R's which are not the same as the Garrett units on Joels car. They are ball bearing, but are direct bolt-on replacements. The HKS ones are supposed to be good for 750 crank HP as a pair. I'm only shooting for a measly little 600 rwhp though.
The HKS GT2540R is smaller than what Joel has.
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My butt dyno says at 12psi I have roughly 260-280hp.
Does a butt dyno require the insertion of any type of special sensor?
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Hmmm, I recently paid big bucks for the Carillo's.
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Those rods look too long to be RB. When I spoke with Eagle earlier this year they had no RB26 rods.
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ive been trying to get parts together so i can build my own intake manifold but i cant seem to find the V stacks or anything..
anybody know where i can get my own material???
thanks
mike
Velocity stacks(non flanged are called "spinnings")
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I would look at the 3.0 lt 4 cyliner toyota truck engine (3rz I think). Douglas
2RZ - 2.4L
3RZ - 2.7L
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Tim forgot to tell you he has a GT42R waiting to be installed this winter. Suppoorts ~200hp more hp than the T64. Should see 575-600hp@wheels when all is said and done.
Nice number!
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Just my 2 cents, for whatever it's worth. JT
~$0.02
You know I couldn't resist
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where can i get the ATI balancer for the rb26? and where can i get crower/carillo rods?
Contact me, I will hook you up. Do you want the 600hp or 800hp dampner?
BTW, I went with Carillo rods. A bit more pricey, but supposedly stronger. Also, takes a good bit of time if they are not in stock.
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what are you guys using for oil pumps?
I can't claim to be high hp because the motor is still being developed. I went with the Nismo Oil pump and opted to have Endyne evaluate it for further modifications. From their experience with Honda motors they state a main reason for pump failure is the lack of a good dampner.
Typical pump rework consists of evaluating gear tolerances, maching gears if necessary, porting oil passages and lowering spring pressure if flow is increased.
As far as RB Motoring having motors fail I would venture to say there may be another cause besides faulty head design.
Matt, can you chime in and give us your thoughts on failure due to improper oiling?
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Nice numbers! I guess you found a few more horsies after we spoke. A bit of further tweeking and 500hp@wheels is doable. I think the current tune, auto tranny and 75shot of nitrous would make for ~140mph in the 1/4. BTW, you know you need a driveshaft for the new setup?
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Went to Dallas this week for a program meeting and took a few hours to visit Endyne to check on the progress of my engine. I had sent him my good head and a spare head to practice with various port configurations. Larry appeared to have finished 3 separate port configurations as well as combustion chamber modifications and valve seat configurations.
Current flow on intake port is 307cfm. I have given him permission to cut the head to check wall thickness to continue to develop the port. Shooting for 350cfm on the intake ports.
The exhaust ports were not as far along as the intake side. It was interesting to see some of the Honda stuff that he gets 380cfm on the intake ports and 320cfm on the exhaust ports. Ahhh, if only they had an I6 version of that motor!!!!
I am not in a huge rush as I want his thing to be done correctly with no expense spared so I can make an honest/reliable 750hp@wheels. Will keep you updated.
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Please contact me when you are in town. Phone number is listed on my website.
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You realize that ATI Performance products sells the tranny adapter which includes and SFI Approved Flexplate and you can also purchase their custom 8" race converter.
I opted to go with the turbo 350 with my setup which should arrive next week.
What is the scoop regarding the 2JZ lifters(buckets)? Any info is appreciated.
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Several things to think about:
Do you have enough preload on the wastegate actuator? Is it a dual port actuator? If you can't make boost then you may be leaking exhaust around the turbo through a partially open flapper valve assembly.
It is very possible you have a boost leak on your IC piping. Check all of your silicone couplers to make sure they are overlapping the hard pipe and that they are not torn. Seen this happen many times.
Unplug the line to the actuator and it should see mega boost. Just do a short run in 2nd gear to see if boost spikes past the desired 14psi. If it does then you have issues with the manual boost controller.
There are only a finite number of things it can be. It will not be related to the fact that you went to a larger exuast.
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how about pickin up another turbo block? With all the cash you are spending whats another couple hundred for another block.
Agreed, seems to be most economical solution. No need to sleeve block on 400rwhp and no need to overbore that large as it really buys you very little.
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It fits perfectly in there and its HUGE!
That's what she said
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Maybe we should lend a helping hand, be supportive and share our experiences with them.
That makes sense, then you pay out the nose for the information YOU provided. They provide nothing better than what I have seen many on this forum do in their garage. McKinney's interest, as it should be, is in the buck. Try to support each other in your efforts.
Custom Intake progress. (pics)
in Fabrication / Welding
Posted
Very nice and glad to see someone taking the extra step to cnc those runners. Staying true to a helmholtz resonator, I do believe you should not have the plenum connect more than 4-5 cylinders, otherwise those principles do not hold.
I don't think you will have any trouble with your design and you should see some nice gains. BTW, make sure to use 1/8" and not 0.090" for the plenum if it is to be boxed.