240Z Turbo

A pinhole would be hard to diagnose with the car running. If the leak is really that large as to make a psst psst sound, I would think it would be quite noticible visually. I just modded my old intercooler for Scottie GNZ and noticed I had a pinhole in the intercooler and I never noticed it when driving. It is hard to say how much a pinhole will affect performance, I would think it would be negligible, but in your case maybe substantial because it is audible. By the way, do you have the pop-off valve hooked up? Make sure you do not have any vaccum ports unplugged. Anyway, all this coded talk is making my turbo spool up something fierce!

Psst, Psst...come here you sexy little thing! That was me hiding in your intercooler! Without actually hearing it, it is hard to say. The only normal sound you would hear is compressor surge because you don't have the blow-off valve. The charge backing up on your turbo usually sounds like a Curly(3 stoogies), whoo whoo whoo whoo. Even if you are not making + manifold pressure you are still pressuring from the turbo @ -3 in-mg. Make sure you do not have any leaks and be familiar with what compressor surge sounds like. give it some throttle in 3rd gear and let off and listen to the surge. Hey Donna, Psst Psst!

Havok, if you are interested, I am selling my setup which includes a T64 turbo, modified exhaust manifold, external wastegate(Racegate), downpipe and oil line. The turbo still has about 2 months of warranty from Majestic and I would be happy to send it to Majestic to have it evaluated to make sure it is still in great shaper. The turbo has about 1500 miles on it. You can expect to make 350hp@wheels without blinking an eye. With the proper tuning and setup I think 450hp@wheels is easily doable w/ about 20psi of boost. TimZ will soon prove or disprove that theory. Great turbo and makes plenty of good power

TimZ, please chime in on this one so I am not alone. I doubt you will be able to generate 450rwhp from that turbo on an L motor, maybe not even on a new Supra motor. The max flow from that wheel, at its worst efficiency, is 48lb/min or about 650cfm. This translates into about 415hp@flywheel. Unless you have the ability to lower your BSFC from some magical head configuration you will not get those #'s. Now, both TimZ and myself have run a few turbo's and can give you the practical results. TimZ used to run the TS04 turbo @20-21psi and generated 376hp@wheels (dynoed). Now this compressor wheel is rated at 55lb/min max or about 465hp@flywheel. TimZ now runs the T64 turbo as I also do and based on his software the car makes about 450hp@wheels @20psi of boost. He will hit the dyno early next month. I used to run the 60-1 and ran 12.24@120.2 which translates into about 363hp@wheels w/19psi of boost. Granted this was not tuned for max power so I think another 30-40hp was possible, giving the possibilities of about 390hp@wheels @19psi of boost. The 60-1 flows about a max of 800cfm or 500hp@flywheel. Try to be realistic when sizing your turbo and for 99% of the applications you will not want to run 25+psi of boost to generate the big hp#'s The L motor do not generate the power like other motors do because we have 2 valves per cylinder and not 4, non-crossflow heads and 20+year old combustion chamber technology. Just don't be mad when you get a turbo that is too small and doesn't make the #'s you want. I would get a turbo that flows between 600-650cfm to generate the 350mark without having to run 25psi of boost.

You will want to use atleast schedule 30 tubing. This tells the wall thickness. The thin crap will just blow open from the heat, trust me I know. As you know the manifold is a cast iron jobber so you will want to have the manifold preheated before welding. Use some type of nickel rod to join the 2 different metals and then once a bit is welded you will want to ping the weld so that it does not suddenly shrink up and cause cracks. Once it is welded you will then submerge it in sand or cat liter and allow it to cool slowly for several hours and you will then be good to go. Here is a pic: http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/3liter/pics/wgate/tman2.jpg http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/3liter/pics/wgate/tman8.jpg http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/3liter/pics/wgate/tman7.jpg

Yea, I guess shops assume most of are ignorant and I guess they are correct or they would not still be in business. Where else can you pay twice as much for a Mercedes fuel injector? If you are making a custom fuel rail then you have much more options. I priced out Venom reman injectors from Carquest for the RX-7 and they ran about $55 per and had a 1-year warranty. You have alot of sizes to choose from: 450cc 550cc 600cc 850cc 1080cc You only need to be careful as to note the injector impedance when ordering the SDS. The injectors require minimal mods to the manifold that include drilling out the injector hole by .015". Wow, real complicated! I bought 2' of fuel rail from electromotive for $45 and then marked and drilled the holes in a drill press. More heavily complicated mods! I then tapped both ends 3/8NPT and was on my way. Actually, I had to get 2 pieces of aluminum and place them into a vice and hammer a 35 degree angle into them. These were used to hold the rail to the manifold once the injectors are in place. Real high tech stuff and this is what I ended up with! http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/3liter/pics/intake/newsetup1.jpg http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/3liter/pics/intake/runners.jpg

One last thing, if your motor were in Houston traffic you would really be screwed because of the humidity. An 850cfm fan will not cut the mustard, nor will a 1600cfm fan. You will need atleast 2000cfm to properly cool the motor in all driving conditions(Houston weather). Spal makes a nice 16" fan that flows 2350cfm and costs under $100.

It is possible to confuse detonation with the engine missing or getting spikes. If your timing is already on the edge from high compression then the added heat will only worsen the problem as additional heat in the engine will increase cylinder pressures and possibly cause detonation. Just check your plugs for signs of detonation. Small metal slivers on the plugs or the porcelin shows signs of being peppered. That is the only thing I can imagin would cause such a problem and have a direct relationship to your engine temps. Adding fuel will probably kill power more than backing down the timing a degree or two. Timing is the correct fix if you are having this problem. I could be way off, hard to diagnose from a message, but definitely something to look at. BTW, what is the engines static compression?

He was starting with 9.8 to be exact!

How much power you have lost due to excessive pressure drop is really hard to say. What compressor wheel are you running? From this you can look on the map and compare the compressor efficiency at 2.91(28psi) and 2.36(20psi). I am sure you will find you have run out of any desirable effeciency range and probably close to the surge limit of the compressor wheel. I was just looking at the maps on the Turbonetics homepage: http://www.turboneticsinc.com/comp_maps/fig9.html and from the looks of most maps the extra 7psi generated will really kill the power because of compressor efficiency. Therefore I conclude you will gain 300hp from using my intercooler! Feel Better?

Twin turbo setup is not on hold, but awaiting the sale of my current turbo setup. Anyone interested? all the crap, turbo, manifold, wastegate, downpipe, oil lines, wastegate tubes, yada yada yada for only $1300! Anyway, the setup will feature 2 Mitsu 16G turbo's w/ 6cm housings. I will have to slightly modify the compressor housing so that I can clock them how I want which will require some mods for the wastegate actuator. Anyway, nobody wanted to hop on board with my idea, so I am building it to my satisfaction and for my particular requirements/setup. Point being, I am not doing it for the masses at this point in time, but I hope to take alot of pretty pictures. It should be fairly straight forward and @ 15psi the 2 16Gs will outflow the T64 maxed out by over 100cfm. From all I have read this setup should see a dramatic increase in spoolup. If I get this done we can hope to see TimZ do a similar setup and continue to make 100hp more than me with the same stuff! BASTARD! HEHE!

Hey Scottie, maybe that intercooler just sucks! Just kidding. I hope you don't find crankcase ventilation problems or some type of annoying restriction. I think that you will find it to be a severe pressure drop caused by the excessive flow you are trying to achieve with that turbo @20+psi of boost. By the way, TIMZ I know now why that restriction would kill performance even though intake temps are cool. You run outside the compressor effeciency on the map by having to produce 7 more psi of boost at the compressor to see the desired boost at the TB. IE, this could take you from an ideal 75% compressor effeciency to 50% compressor effeciency on the maps. That is why a low pressure drop intercooler is better regardless of intake temps being low. By the way Scottie, your new intercooler has been removed and will be modded by Tuesday and shipped for your driving pleasure. I see a 10sec 1/4 in your near future!

I can understand half the argument when it comes to gear ratios, but not piece of mind. Do you know someone who has nuked an R200VLSD please let me know. As far as saying, "I can't find one!" I can go to my local wrecking yard and ask him to locate a diff from an 88 300zx turbo SE model and he can do it with no problem. Any decent yard can do the same and have you a diff in a couple of days. Hell, the guy in Orlando was running the clutch LSD unit and running 140+mph in the 1/4. That is atleast 700hp. I'm not trying to knock the swap and for those that need the gearing I can see it being a valid thing to do as you won't find an R200 LSD unit in the wrecking yard with a 3.55 gear. Hell, I bought a 4.09 VLSD from a 93 n/a 300zx for $150 in hopes of swapping it into my setup, but will keep my 3.70 until I am able to lock my tranny in 3rd gear and then I will make the swap. Anyway, some pics of the swap would be cool and I am interested to see how hard it actually is. As for the shafts, have you tried crossing them in the books to other comperable shafts that have the correct spline and shaft length. That is how I found the AMC Eagle 6cyl front shaft was the answer for making the VLSD swap work in my 240z. OEM, available and cheap! Here is a pic: http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/3liter/pics/driveline/shaft2.jpg VLSD inner AMC eagle shaft 280zx Turbo outer direct boltup on drivers side and had to machine a .5" spacer on the passenger side as the shaft was just slightly too short. Here is a pic of the spacer when it was 1" thick. Ended up being too thich and compressing the shaft allowing the tripod to have some play. http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/3liter/pics/newerpics/pscv.jpg

Are you just getting lonely when you drive? I talk to my imaginary friend Skippy and he helps me get through my troubled times. We laugh and tell stories when I drive. Skippy is a good friend!

Here is my question. Why would you go through all the trouble and expense to install an R230 that has the normal 3.7 gear. I picked up my 3.7 Viscous LSD for cheap and had the shafts modded to fit using all OEM stuff for about $90 per shaft and that included the rebuild. I do not have even $450 in the whole setup and I will drive to your house and shake your hand if you can break this diff. I can understand if you wanted to use the R200VLSD from a 300zx N/A because of its 4.09 gear and wide availability, but what gives with spending $1000 for a swap that seemingly gives no extra advantages?

That doesn't sound very fast to me, you must be getting old or something!

ROFL! I sent you a message about cams.

most say it will not hurt anything from practical experience. However, some have said that because it is a watercooled section it has thinner walls and cross sections as compared to a non-watercooled center section thus allowing the housing to crack more easily if water is not being used because of the heat. Remember, the housing was designed with the intent of having water aid in cooling and without the water you are putting more stress on the center section because it is not as phsically strong as the non-watercooled stuff. Just things I have heard. By the way, tell bubba I said hello!

It sounds to me as if you have hit a resonance point in the tranny that only occurs if you have the following situation. Peak torque occuring at 4400 rmp and peak hp starting at 5400 rpm with both torque and hp achieving the 450@wheels mark. This will cause a google wave to crack the gears under hard acceleration. I hope this helps, it is a common occurance.

I did it several years ago http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/autometer.htm

I finally got my new intake installed and half ass tuned. I have my new 720cc injectors, but running a 38psi baseline wich makes them equivalent to about 67.5lb injectors. Anyway, the car pulls better on the top end and feels like it has a slight increase in power, but because I have not installed the heat shield below the manifold it heats that thing up something fierce. I can't even touch the damn thing after the car is driven for 10 minutes. I am sure it is robbing me some serious power as the air coming from the intercooler is then reheated. @ 17psi of boost I am running about 76% duty cycle and using a BSFC of .65 this equates to about 448hp(flywheel), but that is only a rough estimate at this point. Anyway, I hope my turbo sells so I can do the TT setup with the 16Gs, but if it does not I guess I will keep my turbo and make me a custom 6-1 turbo header this summer. Here is a pic if you are interested. http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/3liter/pics/intake/newsetup1.jpg http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/3liter/pics/intake/newsetup2.jpg

I thought I was hearing something when you were going down the track! It went something like: dink-dink-dink.....ding.ding.ding......dink-dink-dink-ding-dink.....ping-ding-ding! I pulled out my old code breakers book and had it translated. You would be shocked at what it said! It translates into, "get rid of that POS stock GN computer and get a real programmable unit that doesn't screw up every time you hit the track!"

I got the cores today and they are indeed massive. I have decided to keep both cores and just let you eat the $110. Thanks, I needed the cooling capicity of 2000hp! HEHE! I will seperate the cores tomorrow and begine constructing the water tanks. One thing, the inlet and outlet will work best if they are on the same side. Because the water side of the core is 10"x5.5" I will place a divider on the inlet/outlet side, so the water will come into 1/2 the core flow to the other side and then flow back through the other 1/2 of the core. I can probably have the tanks done by Wednesday and will then pressure check it to 50psi or so. Start thinking about how you want your air tanks constructed. Oh I can't wait!

Excluding the NOS, I think I had gapped my plugs to .065" with the MSD 6AL and Blaster II coil. However, with the NOS you will probably want to gap around .030"-.035" but stay on the low side and see if you have an missing.

N/A diff is Viscous LSD R200 (4.09) TT diff is Viscous LSD R230 (3.73) Ring and pinion not compatible with our diffs as the pinion is shorter.