russ in va

Thanks Tony! When you say "new" shaft, do you mean a good used one, does the dealer actually sell component parts for the distributor, or did you just make one somehow? Off topic: I have another post regarding timing that I would appreciate your input on! (when I first posted it, I put in on zcar.com too and you responded there, but now I have additional info) http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124863

OK, so I just tried unplugging the CAS plug to the distributor and with it unplugged it won't run at all so that's not it. I know this distributor does not have mechanical (or vacuum) advance, but shouldn't you be able to watch the timing change from the base setting as you rev the engine?

The springs hold it together. Much more elegant and removable than a clamp don't you think? Nice stuff!

I think I may have this same problem. I've searched for Tony's post about pinning the quill but I've not found it. Is there another word for quill that might help me track it down? TIA!

My 1970 240 has a stock 83 280zx turbo engine. I've determined from consulting the FSM that the base timing should be set to 20. I've done that and the car runs MUCH better, but when I spin the motor up the timing does not change at all. It stays at 20 from idle to 4k rpms. Is this the way it's supposed to be? I've poured over the FSM and I can't find any details on what the timing curve is. All I can find is the 20 degree base timing spec and the fact that timing is controlled by the ECCS. Also, to get 20 degrees out of it, I have the distributor adjusted to the max. If I want to try a few more degrees, can I pull the dist out and reclock it? I'm not sure if it's only got one position or if it's a gear driven type where I can just turn it one tooth and get more adjustment. Any advice on timing on the 280zxt is appreciated!! Thanks, Russ

OK, timing was the problem!! I had 0 base timing (I think it must have moved somehow between when I first bought it and it drove fine, and now when it doesn't ... but how ??? The distributor was not loose and I had not touched it before??). Anyhow, I upped it to 20 degress (that's as far as the dist would turn!). But, it did not change as I revved it up!? I drove it and it was much better but still seemed a bit flat. After my buddy went home and took his timing light with him, I discovered that the round CAS plug that leads to the bottom of the dizzy was loose. Now I need to recheck timing. What would unplugging it do?

Ouch!!! Those are my old wheels! Off my totaled race car. Interestingly, the MRT's I bought use from Mike Kelly (on this board) in about 1996. So, how much to buy my Revolutions back? (I'm PMing you)

I thought about the knock sensor, but not until after I left the dyno. I unplugged it on the street and could not tell any differnce, still dog slow. I did a compression check a few minutes ago, and thankfully did not find anything wrong... 142-150 psi across the board (I don't know what "normal" is, but the numbers were all close enough so that made me happy). Hopefully I'll have time to check the timing in the next couple of days, I'm dying to start driving this thing! That FSM download site rocks! Waiting for the 82 ZX to come available for download so I can get it.

I want to check the timing, but I don't have a service manual for the donor car. As I understand it, the ECU does control timing on the ZXT, yes? Yet, the distributor is clearly adjustable and there is a timing scale down by the crank pully ... so what are the timing specs? Is there anything to unplug in order to properly set the base timing?? Thanks!

I bought my 280zxt powered 1970 240 a couple of weeks ago. At first, it ran strong like a 150-160 rwhp 240 should. Then, all at once it was WAY down on power even though it still starts and runs perfectly. I've since had it on a dynojet and sure enough, I'm only putting 85 hp to the ground. Air fuel is about right. The plugs all look good. I'm making 7-8 lbs of boost. I am getting full throttle. I'm left scratching my head??? My current next step is to check the compression, but since it went from right, to off like a light switch was flipped I doubt that's going to find any problems. Any suggestions are appreciated!

If I walk into a parts store to buy a "single wire" alternator, they will want to know what year and model of vehicle it is for ... anybody know a vehicle that was factory equipped with one of these?? Thanks, Russ