russ in va

I installed the adjustable FPR (not RR, just adjustable). I now have 30 psi at idle (with the vac line hooked up), 40 psi with it unplugged (same as key on, engine off, pump running), 50-51 at full boost (with boost controller set to make 10lbs of boost). But, I just sold/traded the car to a friend of mine and his plan is to pull the turbo/injection off and put S/U's on it! It will sound much better (which is why he's doing it) but I'm loving the 200 lbs-ft of torque it makes now, he's going to lose ... what about 70 of that? Hmph. So I need to do some searching for him, but can anyone tell me off the top of their head, does my turbo motor make less compression than an N/A because it has dished pistons, larger combustion chambers or both? He has an old E88 (late 240) head with a set of 280Z valves to bolt on, but I'm not sure that's going to get his compression back up to "normal". Not really my problem but I'd like to help him in his quest if I can. (He really wants a set of ITB's he can run with MegaSquirt, but that's a whole different search he needs to do.)

Tim, that's a good point. My AFR is tracking in the 13 to 13.5 to 1 range from 2k rpms to 4500, then it creeps up steadily crossing 14:1 just under 5000 rpms and touches 14.5:1 at 5500 where I let off fearing potential damage. Max power on the dynojet is 162rwhp at 5k, with max torque of 188 ft-lbs occuring at 4300. The plugs all look good and the same, but I don't know if you would be able to tell by a plug inspection that an injector was a little off. BTW, these numbers are with a 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust and straight through core 2.5" magnaflow muffler. With an open downpipe (2.5 mandrel as well) and no other changes it made 174 hp and 196 lbs-ft (I have to admit that outdoor ambient temp was about 20 cooler on that run, though the temp in the shop according to the dynojet's thermo was only a couple of degrees lower. Of course these are all SAE corrected numbers anyhow so hypothetically it should not matter ... but it is forced induction.) I used to call BS on the notion that it was important to have 3" exhaust. Now I'm a believer, too bad I already spent the money on the 2.5" cause it's going to have to stay a while 'till I'm ready to spend the money to redo it.

BTW, the MSD 2222 is the adjustable FPR that I am planning to buy. The MSD 2225 is a fuel pump. If I were'nt so impatient, I would have gotten an aftermarket pump (MSD or Walbro), but again I don't think my new generic pump is the problem since it will make 75 psi with the return line clamped off. I just want to get the pressures to meet the stock settings to get my AFR's in line so I can turn up the boost!

Thanks for all the info. It is the pump they specified for the turbo ... but they specify the same pump for the n/a motor (and for EVERY other Nissan made that year). It's a generic thing. But I don't believe the flow rate of my pump is my problem. We are talking about fuel pressure being too low at idle as well as everywhere else. When the car is under load I don't have a problem with pressure falling off (which is what it would do if the pump was not keeping up), it's just too low all the time. The AFM may well be out of adjustment, but before I mess with it I wanted to get my fuel pressures right (as per the FSM). I'm going to try the adjustable FPR and see what that does, then I'll try messing with the AFM if need be. If Tim's numbers work out though, and 3psi makes a half point change in my AFR, then I may just turn the pressure up a scosh beyond the factory spec and get everything where I want it that way. I've got a boost controller ready to go in place and bump the boost up to 10psi as soon as I get this sorted out so I'm getting kind of impatient!

My '70 240 is powered by a stock l28et (83 style). It was running lean throughout the rev range on the dyno, so I checked the fuel pressure. Testing results before changing any parts: - Key on pump running engine off = 35 psi (should be 38-40) - At idle = 27 psi (s/b 30-32) - Throttle tip in = 33/34 psi (s/b 37) - At 7psi boost = 40 psi (s/b 47) - At idle with return line clamped off = 44 psi initially, dropping to 42ish (s/b ??? 60 ???) Installed new autozone pump: - all test results the same EXCEPT with return line clamped it now holds 75psi Installed new autozone stock replacemet FPR: - no changes at all Any ideas why all my results are coming back 3 to 7 psi below spec? Note: All these results were using a homedepot psi gauge. I subbed in a Snap On gauge I borrowed from a friend and the readings were about 1 psi higher, but still below spec. I am using the stock fuel supply and return hard lines. Barring any other solution, I'm planning to by an MSD adjustable boost referenced FPR (not a rising rate FPR or FMU if you will) just to try to get the car to work as designed. I can get an MSD part # 2222 for $72 at Autozone. Thoughts will be greatly appreciated.

I'll throw in my 2 cents on fitment. I have these wheels in a 16x8 with 10mm offset. My car is (unfortunately) at stock ride height. When I test fit a set of 245/45/16's, the front sidewall was in sligth contact with the spring perch. The rear would have fit except for some contact with the body work in a severe bump. If I had coilovers and the car was low, the front would have been fine (cut off stock spring perch and using 2.5" ID springs). In the rear, significant fender rolling and possibly stretching would have been involved. I am running 225/50/16's instead. I had to massage the stock spring perch with a sledge (you could say I smashed the spring perch flat where it would otherwise have been hitting the tire). Works great. I've been meaning to refit the 245/45's with the spring perch shaped the way it is now, I suspect they would fit. With the 225's I have no problem in the rear, but if the car was really low it might require fender rolling. If you go with 17x8.5 +4's and run a 245/40/17, I expect the front will fit fine (have a hammer handy to beat on the spring perch if neccessary). If the car is stock ride height, the rear will probably be fine too, but if the car is low or you drive on rough roads you will need to roll the fenders and possibly stretch them a bit.

If 225 is wide enough for you, you can't really get any more tire selection than what is available in 225/50/16. For that matter, there is a pretty good selection of 245/45's available too ... just check tirerack or edgeracing.com.

I know the 81's had the CAS down on the crank pulley while the 82 and 83 had the CAS in the distributor. I'm not aware of any other differences. At any rate, I know my distributor does have the CAS in it. I don't know what year my ECU is from as the part no. does not appear on the ECU part number list I have. Do you know what year the ECU you loaned me is from?

The wheels will not be back on the car until my tires come in the middle of next week. I'll definitely post back up with MUCH better pics once they are on the car. Thanks! Russ

Dave, thanks for the input. And thank you for your generousity with the ECU loan! I replaced the coil itself (the old one was leaking oil), but not the power transistor. I had ordered a coil from the local import autopart store, but when it came in it was a coil only ... and made in China. They had a Bosch blue coil on the shelf, so I got that instead for the same money. I did not think this could effect timing advance so I had not mentioned it. Do you agree? No, I don't know if the car was ever getting advance. So this problem could date to the time of the swap 6 or 8 years and 2 owners ago, or it could be recent. At this point I should problable bring up some info I originally posted in another thread. The day I bought the car, it ran pretty well (about like it does now). A couple of days later, it lost all power. Actually dynoed it and it made 85 RWHP. On Dave's advice, I checked the timing and found base set at about 0 degrees. I twisted the distributor to full advance and got about 20 degrees. Car now runs like it did when I got it. I'm now begining to think these problems are related .... but I have no idea how? When I did my diagnostics, I did check everything at the harness under the dash. Note: The CHTS testing did not check out per the FSM, I'll paste those results in here now from post #7 above in italics for easy reference ... could this be the problem? And what's the right way to fix it? -Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor - fails the factory test but I'm puzzled (note: infared pyrometer reading at CHTS = 95 degrees F at the time of these tests) -pin 23 to body ground is infinite resistance (shoud be less than 2.9 K ohms at 68 F or above per FSM) -BUT (this is not a factory test, I just looked at the wiring diagram and figured out where the other lead from the CHTS hooks up) pin 23 and 26 together read 1.237 K Ohm (why doesn't the FSM have you take this reading instead of the 23 to body ground reading?) -Reading right off the sensor itself was 1.240 K ohm -Also, if you unplug the CHTS with the engine at full operating temp and running, it misses badly BUT there is not a noticable spike on the dyno's wide band 02 sniffer?? (does this sound normal?) The only other bothersome result from my probing was the ground/air regulator wire at pin #108 (see post #7 for details). Can I just run a new wire to fix this? I'll have to try the listening techinque to be sure, but since the air fuel stays in line on the dyno, I'd certainly expect the injectors are firing in the right time. I would not think they could supply enough fuel at 800 cycles per minute (idle speed) to feed the motor when it's running 5000 rpms and makeing 150 hp. Doesn't the fact that the car runs and revs up at all indicate that the ECU knows the right RPMS and is sending spark signals? Just trying to think this through.

18racing.com sells rota's they have the RB (looks similar to a panasport) to fit Z's with proper offset

OK, I installed the known-to-be-good ECCS that Dave lent me (THANKS DAVE!) and found no change ... I still get no advance as I bring the revs up. Rats!!! What now? I'm at a loss. Based on the knowledge that Bernardd shared about the TPS signal triggering the ECCS to not advance, I'm going to triple check the TPS, though I already did. Any other suggestions? I'm trying to get this straight in my head. On an old school dizzy, when the weights spin and crank in the advance they make the point plate turn. But since the ECCS is doing the job of the points and the advance plate with computer magic, there are no moving parts like this in my dist, right? So since it's not the ECCS itself, that MUST mean that some input into the ECCS is causing this, right? Other than the TPS, what could possible do this? My ignorance is killing me!

They are gunmetal. Details here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=803536&postcount=91

No, the 10mm pulls them into the car relative to the zero offset that most people seem to think is correct for the car. I got them from 18racing.com. Thanks for the compliment, I know I love them!

Armand, thanks for the kind words! These are the perfect wheels for a Z as far as I am concerned and I am thrilled to have them. They look very similar to Panasports, but I actually like them better (the color helps!). I need to weigh them before I mount the 225's, I'll guess about 17lbs but I want to know myself so I'll get back to you. I believe that 245/45's would fit on the rear with fender rolling, it might require some fender stretching but that will likely vary from car to car. The lip I'll have to measure, but I'd guess it's between 2.5 and 3". I got mine from 18racing.com. There is a group buy going on these wheels on this board in 17" sizes. So far I don't think the 17's actually exist, but they are supposed to be coming. I'll post more pics once the tires come in.

16x8 Rota RBR in "hyper black" with 10mm offset (4 29/32's inch backspacing). Note: this offset allows the max tire width on stock configured car much better than zero offset. Shown here test mounted with 245/45/16's ... the front would require a 5mm spacer to clear stock coil spring perch, the rears would fit with minimal fender clearance issues ... so I just ordered 225/50/16's that should fit PERFECTLY. The bottom photo is legit, the top is with future mod's photo shopped in Better quality pics will replace these once I get the correct tires permanently mounted.

Standard lugs did the job (no tuner style required). Got them at Pep Boys for like $6/4 lugs. Top pic is actual Bottom is the way the car needs to look!

After looking back at some of the pics of the wheels, I'm afraid that there is not room down in there for a regular socket, and that "tuner" lugs are required. I bought a set of them and a set of regular cap nuts at Pep Boys. I'll return which ever ones I don't use. I really hoping the standard chrome cap nuts fit, all I want is the simple look of chrome lugs, nothing showy and DEFINITELY nothing colored. Understated is the key.

Yep, it works. Pins 18 and 25 have continuity when the throttle is closed and the circut goes open from the moment you crack it open all the way to the floor.

OK, I went through the ECCS Electrical System Inspection from the FSM Pgs 96-109 of the Engine Fuel and Emission Control System setion AND played with the car on the dyno tonight. Lots of info. First of all, my ECCS does not appear in the chart I have ??? It says on it "Nissan Genuine Remanufactured Engine Control Unit" (ECU not ECCS ... does this mean it is not a turbo ECCS ??? that would explain why I'm not getting any advance with RPMS!) A18-602 045K Then it also says 0307 (but the first digit is faint, could be C307) Then the results of my probing with the Fluke (I'm not afraid of the harness anymore): -Throttle Valve is working properly -Air Flow Meter Tests - - pins 33 to 26 slightly out of range at 202 Ohms (FSM states 280 to 400) - -pins 33 and 31 good at 129 ohms - - the FSM does not say to do this, but I pushed the flap through it's range of motion (it moves freely and steadily) while watching the resistance ... it's all over the board! It continuously ranges up and down while moving it through its range of motion .. it will track with the flap for a while then jump up or down and track again, then jump again! This seems like a bad thing to me but I'm outside the scope of the manual here so input is appreciated (weird thing is that air/fuel on the dyno runs seems fine???) -Air Temp Sensor reads 1.903 K ohms at approx. 80 degrees F, that's OK per the FSM (over 68 F should be less than 2.9 K ohms) -Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor - fails the factory test but I'm puzzled (note: infared pyrometer reading at CHTS = 95 degrees F at the time of these tests) -pin 23 to body ground is infinite resistance (shoud be less than 2.9 K ohms at 68 F or above per FSM) -BUT (this is not a factory test, I just looked at the wiring diagram and figured out where the other lead from the CHTS hooks up) pin 23 and 26 together read 1.237 K Ohm (why doesn't the FSM have you take this reading instead of the 23 to body ground reading?) -Reading right off the sensor itself was 1.240 K ohm -Also, if you unplug the CHTS with the engine at full operating temp and running, it misses badly BUT there is not a noticable spike on the dyno's wide band 02 sniffer?? (does this sound normal?) -Control Unit Ground Circut Tests - - Pins 28,26,107,109,112 and 113 are properly grounded BUT... - - Pin 108 does not have continuity with ground (when the 15 pin connector is NOT plugged into the ECCS), nor does it have continuity with the connector to the Air Regulator which as far as I can tell should be the other end of this wire, is that right? -Air Regulator and Fuel Pump Relay Tests - - I'm not sure if you are supposed to have the 15 pin connector plugged into the ECCS when performing this proceedure .... with it unplugged it fails (same test as last step), 108 does not have any continuity to ground .. with it plugged in it has 0 resistance, it is grounded ... either way it fails, it should be in the range of 25 to 90 Ohms per the FSM - - Checking the air regulator ... clamping down on the vacuum line (per the FSM) when the engine is cold does slow the idle speed (that's good per the FSM) ... I could not get the hose off to do the specified visual check because the hose is so hardnend I would have had to cut it off so this will have to wait until I can get a new hose to replace it with but I think this step is irrelivant at this time since the air reg does NOT have continuity between it's poles so according to the FSM I need to replace it too! - - Air regulator power circut test - fails (note I did not disconnect the starter motor as directed in the FSM, instead I pulled the coil wire and performed the test by actually cranking the motor, I assuem that my short cut is not the reason it fails) I only get .14v at wire 108 when cranking, zero if you plug the coil wire in and start the car SO .... should I run a new wire from pin 108 to the air regulator?? ... is that the correct routing? (I'm still not good at reading a wiring diagram) I did not do the rest of the tests on the fuel pump relay and injectors since the car does run cleanly on all 6 cylinders it did not seem neccessary. My concern is still with the ignition timing. My dyno results, posted below, were good considering I am still not getting any spark advance (base timing set at 20 degrees, and it falls back a couple of degrees as you run it up through the revs on the dyno under load); 149 hp and 180 ft lbs with a decent air fuel curve (a little lean up top) ALL INPUT IS APPRECIATED!!

I could get an ECU (and a distributor) from this guy http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/12/1838425 -OR- I could spend that money on MS ... but then it would take me months to get the car running again ... unless someone wants to make/sell me a harness??? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112504&highlight=ms+downtime

I posted this on the L6 forum a few days ago and have had no replies, so lets try a different audience. I'm trying to get the timing set up on my L28ET. It's a stock 83 drivetrain transplanted into a 1970 S30. It has been in the car for years and the swap was done two owners ago. I've got the base timing set to 20 degrees as per the FSM. My concern is that as I watch the timing and bring the revs up from idle to 4000rpms, the timing stays at 20 degrees advance, it does not increase. I know this distributor has neither vacuum or mechanical advance, but I would expect the ECCS to add timing as the revs come up. I've scoured the FSM and can find no mention of the factory timing curve. It has occured to me that MAYBE, the ECCS is smart enough to know that I am free reving the motor and only adds timing under load (using input from the AFM combined with the CAS.) Can anyone provide info on what the timing should be doing as rpms incresase? I am very fortunate to have access to a dynojet, so my next step is to check the timing through the rev band on the dyno under load. After that, I'm down to ohm-ing out the wires, though electrical work is not my forte so I'm a bit hesitant to start down that road. Any input is appreciated! PS If anyone has a spare distributor and/or ECCS I can swap in, I'd love to try it! I'm more than happy to pay for the UPS store to box and ship it to make it easier on anyone willing to help.

Have you run them on the street? I just bought 16x8's RB's for my car and I'm going to trial fit some old 245/45's as soon as they get here to decide if I can fit them or if I have to go 225/50. Either way these tires are a very tempting option. I've run Toyo RA1's on the street and loved them. I've never known anyone running the V700's as a street tire though. So you give them your personal recomendation?? (You're car looks awesome with all that tire under it BTW!)

OK, I've got the 16x8 10mm offset Rota RBr's on the way (I am psyched!). My buddy has donated his 245/45/16 Toyo Proxes RA1 track tires for test fitment (fun times around the local cloverleaf offramp!). I'll post back up with fitment results hopefully by this time next week! In the mean time, I need to buy lug nuts for these wheels (I have ZX mags with shank style lugs now). I know I need M12 1.25 lugs, but can anyone tell me for certain what type of lug seats these wheels have (conical or concave)? I tryed calling tirerack to order some but since they don't sell Rota's they did not know what type of lug seat I need. 18racing only sells the tuner style and I hate locking lugs or any lug requiring a special tool to remove them so I just want to buy some chrome cap style lugs prefferably with a 21mm (13/16") head. Help!

For my fellow track rats, here are some smoking deals if the sizes work for you! (225/50/16 and 245/45/16 are included as well as 225/50/14 for any old school Z'rs with 14x7 ITS wheels still laying around) http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes.jsp?make=Kumho&model=Ecsta+V700 (I have no affiliation with the tirerack, I'm just a customer about to order some tires myself and found these deals on their website)