tonycharger72

Holden Bearings, with 5.5" studs, have a 6" diameter, and a ford stud pattern (5by114.3), Cost $29.95AUD from Supercheap , Ark Engineering make them http://www.arkeng.com/html/disc_wheel_hubs.html Part # FH150, bottom left hand corner of the page, I think the engineer was just being cautious......... They slip straight on,

uuummmmmm.........a box trailor

Got an Idea of another member on Hybridz for an alternative hub idea, Just wondering what you guys thought, whether or not these hubs would be suitable, Here are some pics, http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3426&cat=500&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3425&cat=500&page=1 The rotor would have to bolt onto the face of the hub, The inner and outer bearings are spot on and the offset from the hub face to the spring perch is pretty much identical from the original zed hub to the aftermarket 5-lug hub, These new 5-lug hubs are supposed to be good for 500kg a corner and my engineer has said they should be okay but might be an idea to use stronger studs, he hasnt seen it yet though, What yall think???

Yeah, getting that theory from my head to paper took a few goes aswell Its a pretty cool way around the large increase in track that the 300zx hubs cause though, And there are lots of places that flog off 5-lug rims with a 25+ offset, i know its not exactly the 33+ (to get it back to factory), but by using a 25+ offset with the 300zx hubs on an 1970-78 Zed, you are effectively increasing the track 16mm (8mm/side), which from all ive been told aint such a bad thing at all, There are lots of places that flog of 5-lug 25+ wheels, more than 4-lug 15+ offsets anyways

Cool Bananas, thanks Johnc, Mike, Its just the 300zx hubs are alot cheaper basically, and by the time i ship Ross's hubs over to OZ they are about $800AUD or so, and my engineer said he was a little bit unsure he would pass over allumium hubs, he said he would prefer they were billet steel, which i can get made in OZ for about $600/pair

Finally, got the gearbox crossmember done, was a really big pain in the a#s, lots of bending and swearing.......... Tailshaft, driveshaft or even the propellar shaft is also complete, just got to install it tomorrow, http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3409&cat=500&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3413&cat=500&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3410&cat=500&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3412&cat=500&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3411&cat=500&page=1

Was curious about the 300zx Hub, Ill give an example, We have, Car A, (300zx) Car B (240z/260z/280z) Car C (car with wheels that have a 33+ offset) We Use the front hubs off car A and bolt them to Car B, Using these different hubs from car A onto Car B, changes the front track on car B and pushes it out say 3/4" (18mm), these front hubs widen car B's track by 3/4" (18mm), Now, Lets say you then go out and get a wheel from car C, which has a larger positive offset than car B's wheels, say 3/4" (18mm) larger positive offset (Car B = 15+ & Car C = 33+), then you put the wheels from car C onto car B, Would this not mean, That you have increased the front track of car B by using the front hubs off car A, the increase being 18mm, Then, By using the wheels from car C, with the larger positive (18mm larger)then car B's wheels, that you have infact managed to get the front track back to its original point??? Sorry this sounds like a yr8 math question

Mike, No sh#t, well i stand corrected, you can fit an 8" rim at the front of stock suspensioned & non-flared Zed, just need a 0 offset (4.5" of backspacing) like Mike said, Thanks for enlightening me mate

Mike, Did anything rub mate, like at full-lock, when you had 8" rims with stock guards and suspension?

Mikelly, i took my front wheels off my Zed and jacked up the car on the engine crossmember, this brings the whole strut assembly inwards, and increases the distance from the spring perch to the guard, when i measured the distance from the spring perch to the guard lip it was approx 240mm, thats about 9.4" approx, so an 8.5" rim, BUT, there is not this much room if the car was sitting back on the ground and the strut was in its original position, As far as i can see with the measurements ive taken, and just about every single person i have badgered about fitting 8" rims, and ive annoyed alot of folks, IT IS IMPOSSIBLE to fit 8" rims on the front of a stock suspension/non-flared guard Zed, This is what JTR say, this is what Zhop Melbourne Say, this is what ROH say, this is what Simmons say, this is what a bunch of folks on hybridzs have said, this is what a bunch of folks on Classiczcars have said, this is what my measurements have told me, The rears are different, can fit bigger than 8" rims, but i have been told time and time again that there is just no way in hell you can fit an 8" rim on a stock suspension/non-flared 1970-78 Zed, On a stock bodied, without smaller od coilovers, unlike this zed, http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/dat74z/detail?.dir=fb30&.dnm=e7ae.jpg&.src=ph im certain you cant fit 8", Someone please correct if im wrong..........

With a stock set up... i've heard that 17x7 is the biggest and widest you can go with a wheel. True? or False?? False, I know you can go at least one inch wider. I dont know about this one............atleast at the front of a stock Zed, the rears are a different story, I measured how much space i had, i have a stock 260z, stock suspension spring diameter, stock ride height, and stock 260z 14 by 5.5" rims with 195/70-14tyres, Measuring from the rims (not the tyres) i figured i had around 15mm's from inside of the wheel to the spring perch & about 40mm from the outside of the wheel to the guard, and the wheel being 5.5" is approx 165mm, That means there is about 220mm approx of space at the front from the spring perch to the guard, Now a 8" rim (=9") which is 225mm, which means that you just run out of space, And when i spoke to Simmons & ROH they said that i should leave about 5-10mm worth of clearance on the inside between the spring perch and the wheel, just so when you get the wheels at full lock, nothing rubs, that would mean you would need really about 230-235mm worth of clearance for the 8" rims to fit, and as far as my measurements go, at the front you only have 220mm approx clearance, So, there is no way in hell could you possibly fit 8" rims at the front on a stock Zed without hitting the spring perchs or hitting the guards, The rears are a different story however, an 8" rim with 225 tyres and about a 10+ offset (approx 5" backspacing) should easily fit a stock Zed,

Yeah im in the process of making my own but just trying to decide which is the best way to go, seeing as you did such a good job with your mounts, i figured you would have done just as good a job with your gearbox X member, i was thinking of doing something like a V or U shape and attach it to either side of the trans tunnell, the drivers side was sweet, the passenger side is beginning to really piss me off though - just no real flat bits on that side (this the driver side for the yanks), so im trying to work around it, i think i had it figured but i need to bend my steel to all sorts of funny angles, which is damm hard to do with monkey grips and a vice My Gearbox sits heaps further back than the original mounts, like somewhere between 5-10", and the gearbox slightly rubs on them, so i will have to remove or atleast give them a shave Send me all the pics you can champ, engine mounts, gearbox xemember, tailshaft, everything you got, love to see em, tl24@bigpond.net.au

Do you have any pics of your gearbox crossmember mate? If you are looking at getting custom ones made from scratch, EFI Hardware in Melbourne will whip you up some Billet Steel ones for about $600/Pair

Had a thought............ Just say you use 300zx front hubs, from my searching ive heard people say that this increases your front track by 18mm (bout 3/4"), could you not then choose a wheel which then decreased the front track so you could get close enough back to stock, ie.......using a wheel with a larger than 15+ (stock zed wheel offset) offset to decrease your track, For Example: 300zx hubs increase the track out by 18mm, Then you get your hands on a set of larger positive offset wheels, say 33+ offset (original Zed offset is 15+, and you have increased the front tack by 18mm with the 300zx hubs), So by using the larger positive offset wheels, you can actually put the track back to stock, I know there are benefits to increasing the front track, but i was just curious as to whether or not the above would actually work???

Mine is a NA 2jz, 2jzge, from a mid 90's JZA80 Supra, not sure of the exact year, buts its between 1993-99, after 1999 apparently these buggers had VVTI, mine dosent Should be putting out about 170kw ish, touch wood with a bit of head work, new cams, extractors and an aftermarket ECU i should be close to 210-220kw at the flywheel, The only things that ive got to put on the engine are the starter, and the radiator, but i cant imagine that my car is going to drop that much with those things in the car, Have almost figured out what im going to do with the gearbox crossmember so ill pics of that hopefully by the end of tomorrow

Yeah, that was a bit lazy But thanks so far you advice anyway champ, been very helpful

Yeah saw yours, i was going to do it that way but i just didnt like the idea of welding stuff like that, but then again i really did want aircon, The car that its in is a dummy car, more or less, the car this engine is going into is my other Red Zed, so i needed something that i could adapt into it fairly easily, so in the end i decided to go with the engine mount option, but aircon would have been cool Just curious mate, when you did your conversion did the car sit up higher in the front than it used to with the L6 engine? Ive got about 4.5" of clearance now in the 2jz car, on my other zed its a shade under 3" of clearance between the fender and the top of the tyre (and its at its stock ride height),

Pretty much finished the engine mounts today, welded them up properly and put in extra supports, added a stack more photos, Have a slight issue though, when you look at the front of car its sitting heaps high with the engine mounted - there is about 4.5" clearance between the tyre and the fender, which is a bigger clearance than at the rear, 4.5" clearance seems like alot???

"Assuming you've done all the other things necessary to improve the handling of your Z, then yes. Track width changes that we are talking about here are a fine tuning tool. If you haven't already got the basics done, track width changes won't be noticeable." What are all the other things necessary to improve the handling of your Z, what are the basics???