tonycharger72

"to clarify: A 350 chev would never ruin a zed, as said in my first post which you replied to "Theres no replacement for displacement".... And hell no an L28 with stock internals would produce 400rwkw, at least not for very long, but you dont NEED that much power for a fast car, it needs to be setup right which requires funding in more places than just the motor :(" There probably isnt many motors that can make nearly 580kw at the flywheel (this is what i'd estimate 440kw at the rear wheels to be) on factory rods and crank for very long without blowing skyhigh , "SO wouldnt you agree that if you were going to do a motor transplant into a sports car (older or newer), you would use a sports car / performance car engine?" Yeah i know what you mean, just heard so many great things about the Sr20, my brother is putting one is his 1600 and he talks about it all the F#cking time , but i could imagine that there would have been a fair amount of work and money put into that 440 Rwkw Sr20/1600, even though it used stock Rod/crank/Tb & Plenum - im sure it wasnt just a free-flowing exhaust and removing your cats that would get you that kind of power But your right, i reckon because the Zed has the room, why not stick in a much larger displacement engine than the Sr20 and go with something that is probably classified by the manufacturers as a "performance" engine, like the 2jz or the Race-Bred RB (pretty sure thats what RB stands for)engines

Thanks for the detailed info mate, I wouldnt put an Sr20 into my zed, just because there is so much room in there, why not put in a larger capacity engine, but the Sr20 is such a great little motor, the L28 is a great engine aswell, Just trying to help give this Chris-280zx as much info as possible to help him make his decision,

Well done mate, your a legend

"No linky sorry Rather than machine out hubs it may be possible to get different size from stock bearings that will fit." Dont think this will work mate, just because the bloke who did the above conversion said he spent some time looking about for suitable bearings and didnt come up with any other options then re-boring the struts and fitting Z31 bearings, But it would be worthwhile to have a captain cook in a bearing shop

Wow, i really thought these little motors put out more than that stock, From what ive heard the s13 sr20 is supposed to have the best flowing head, but im sure you get in there and make the s15 sr20 head flow as good or maybe even better than the s13 sr20 head and it does have VVTI, "however its obvious that the S15 motor is better" Never said it wasnt mate, just from what ive been told, in stock form, the s13 head flows better, Check this out, http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3870&highlight=sr20+dyno First post spells it out, Did anyone see the AMMRR Stanza with the SR20 at Adelaide Extreme horsepower show????? It makes 440 rwkw with the standard S13 plenium and TB!!! This should be a slap in the face for anyone who changes either of these components!! And it still uses the standard rods and crank You seem like a fairly knowledgeable follow or atleast your boss does, Can you do this with an L28 using the stock Crank/rods/plemum and throttle body??? "but my boss talked me into an RB25DET on the basis that you should use a motor of similar size or larger on a sports/touring style car, not a motor that was produced for a girls run around car. " mmmmmmmmm............the Sr20 was an engine designed as an engine to go in "girls run around cars" - what the f#ck??? "anyway i hope you dont ruin your zed............." Hows he going to do this mate, By putting in an Sr20 or something really crazy like a 350chevy???

My brother is swapping an S13 Sr20Det into his 1600, i think stock this bugger pumps out about 150kw at the flywheel, and will a decent exhaust, larger intercooler lots more power is possible, and he is always going on about how well supported this little engine is - so so so many people have used this engine is so so so many different cars, And the s13 head is supposed to be the best flowing out of all the Sr20's, the S14 and S15 had VVTI (it may have only been the S15's) but the S13 Sr20 is supposed to have the best head, If i were me, it would ditch the L28 for sure and put the Sr20 in, its an all alloy block, has double overhead camshaft and is such a strong little bugger, It seems to install this engine into the zed you would mount it completely behind the crossmember and weld braces to the chassis rails and connect up the engine that'a'way, or use engine plates of some sort, Check this out mate, http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=6738&cat=500&page=2 Im not 100% certain about this bloke and what he evetually ended up doing in regards to engine mounts but it looks as if hes used engine plates and connected them to the front of the block, And most of the sh#t the 1600 guys have to do to complete there conversions could be adapted to help you sort through converting this engine into your Zed, like speedo cable............etc, www.ozdat.com/forum Has a heap of stuff in regards to folks swapping sr20's into 1600's lots of support of this forum for the l28 and lots of folks have done lots of things to them, but there is soooooooo much info about the sr20, and there is enormous aftermarket support for this engine,

Blackbeaut, like to see how this turns out mate, post some pics when you get your gear back, ive spoken to a few Zed folks locally and most of em said they never went down the road of installing Z32 or Z31 rear hubs because they never like the idea of machining up the rear hubs for the larger diameter hubs, 260DET, dont suppose you got a link mate? Ive found a bloke in Australia who used the Z31 half shafts with R200 diff and Z31 rear hubs, He machined the rear struts to suit the Z31 hubs, the original diameter was 70mm, this needed to be taken out to 72mm to suit the Z31 hubs, then he just slipped the Z31 hubs in and was then able to use (or he said this was the plan) to use Z31, Z32 & R32 rear brakes, Then was basically able to mate these hubs straight up the Z31 rear half shafts, he used Z31 bearings, Which if it worked like this, would be a pretty damm simple upgrade when you think about it, Just go out and grab the, Half-shafts from a Z31, 1986-89 Z31 Hubs 1986-on Z31, Z32 or R32 rear brakes with internal handbrake (the Z32 and R32 use the same rear brakes), Then, Machine out the rear struts to suit the Z31 hubs, grab the bearings from a 1986-on Z31 and use them with the Z31 hubs in your 240/260/280 zed struts, Then just connect everything up, End up with very stout half-shafts with CV's and not UNI's, no adapters needed with much much much better rear brakes then most others, a 297mm by 20mm vented rotor, 2-piston Caliper and internal handbrake, Only three catches that i can see, 1 - Half-shaft length, this may require modification, which could be expensive, 2 - Whether or not its a good idea to take meat out of the rear Zed struts to accomodate the rear Z31 hubs 3 - The change in rear track by using the Z31 hubs, But im not 100% certain, but i would be pretty confident that doing it this way would almost certainly increase your rear track, just because the rear rotor is alot taller than if you used the 47mm solid Rotor from a 1984-85 Z31, as the rotor is taller but the caliper still pretty much mounts to where the backing plate is the offset of the hub would have to be further out to accomodate the larger rotor, again just an assumption,

Thanks champ, ill had a look through that thread, but it dosent seem to answer my specific questions, well sorta, From what i could gather, Jamiet was, Installing an r230 diff, then using 300zxtt CV's and mating this to "custom short Moser axle shafts", Then using the 300zxtt rear hubs, which to do so he had to gut his original Zed rear struts, but he didnt do this, he looked as if he kinda made new ones, and by doing this he was able to retain the stock zed offset on the rear wheels (ie...kept the track stock), But what i was wondering was, if you didnt almost make new rear struts and you just drilled the buggers out to except the bigger Z31 or Z32 hubs is this a good idea? Some folks ive spoken to said, nope not enough meat for it to be a good idea, Other folks have said (well one person), "yes ive done it and it works fine", Also, What are the changes in offset if you do manage to stuff the Z31 or Z32 hubs in the rear struts, I would imagine the the rear track must increase just because of the rotor sizes (their heights) are quite a bit larger than the 1984-85 rotor (47mm VS 57 & 63mm), This is just an assumption...........

These hubs are suitable http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3532&cat=500&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3531&cat=500&page=1 These are made are custom made hubs from K1045 steel, so a bit stronger than the trailor hubs & They retain the stock Zed offset and bearings,

Im in the process of figuring out what im going to do with my rear hubs and possibly the half-shafts, Im thinking of 3 options, 1 - Re-drill the rear hubs and use something like the S13/14 rear caliper, solid disc and the mechanical handbrake linkage or a XF Ford Falcon PBR rear caliper and vented disc with mechanical handbrake 2 - Bore-out the Rear struts and use Z31 turbo rear hubs and with this use the later z31 rear brakes with the internal handbrake, BUT...........if i do this and stick with stock 260z half-shafts, what mods do i need to do to get the half-shafts to mate up with the Z31 hubs? Then..........if i went to Z31 half-shafts, does anyone know if i have to shorten them work with the Z31 hubs, Then finally, is there is any change in offset if i use the Z31 rear hubs? 3 - Do the same as above but use Z32 NA stuff, The major issues i think i have with this one is, 1 - What will be the change in offset 2 - Is there enough meat on the rear struts to bore them out to accomdate the Z32 hubs, as i assume the Z32 hubs have a larger diameter than the Z31 hubs???

Engineer had a captain cook at the engine mounts, gearbox crossmember and tailshaft and he said they would be more than adequate - SWEET!!!, Now just gotta do all the piddly little crap, the wiring harness is going to be heaps of fun, i love playing with wiring, i spend 3 weeks completely rewiring an old Charger that ill never get back , Bit curious though as to what people have done with, 1 - Speedo Cable 2 - Throttle/Accelerator Cable

Or unless i tell him Good point though, if id said nothing and just said i used different rotors and calipers (would have been hard to avoid telling the engineer about there) he might not have ever known, or i could have even said they were off a Volvo or something like that (the Volvo Hubs from the 140 & 240 series look soooooo similar its not funny), I think because i said they are trailor hubs he was pretty certain he didnt want to pass my car with them on,

They really did look stronger than atleast the HG and Volvo hubs i looked at, thicker and made from better stuff, Engineer just said no go!!! As you said im sure they would be strong enough, but if i wanna get my car registered i gotta find another solution

These hubs suitable??? NO..............they have been black flagged, That is what the engineer has said, they are made from stuff that just aint that strong, he said he wouldnt pass my car with the trailor hubs on it, Said i would probably suffer hub failure if my wheels knocked anything at high speeds,

Hear are some Jaq hubs on the zed, http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3484&cat=500&page=1 The first one is from a early 70's Jaq and uses a PCD 5 by 120 (chevy, bmw & jaq), the same inner & outer bearings as the Zed, but, the bearings dont have the same spacing though, the zed is 72-5mm apart, the one is 90mm apart, so would have to try and move the outer bearing inwards 15-18mm, (dont know if its possible), Rotor bolts to the bolt of the hub, Track is changed outwards 8mm http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3485&cat=500&page=1 The second is from a 1987 Later Jaq ones and uses a PCD 5 by 120 (chevy, bmw & jaq), the same inner bearings as the Zed, but the outter is much larger, as you can see from the pic, so would have to put in some sort of spacer, & the bearings dont have the same spacing though, the zed is 72-5mm apart, the one is 65mm apart, so would have to try and move the outer bearing outwards 8-10mm, (dont know if its possible either), Rotor bolts to the front of the hub, Track is changed outwards 11mm, So neither seem to really be all that suitable, but the 2nd one would be fairly easy to mod to get to suit the Zed, but has a large change in track

i dont know champ, ill be strapping in the f111 jet engine soon id say your right, i looked at alot of hubs today and i swear not one of them looked as strong as my trailor hub, and the f#ckers are rated at 500kg!!!

Did some investigation today, Ive found alot of cars used they same wheel bearings as the 1970-78 Zeds, And ive found atleast 2 hubs which could be adapted to fit, The 142-144 Volvo Hubs & The HG Holden Hubs, Mearsuring from the outside of the inner and outer bearings on my 260z the distance = 75mm, The trailor hub = 75mm The Volvo hub = 78mm HG Hub = 80mm, The problem with the Volvo & HG Hub is they have a PCD of 108 by 5, dont know how many other cars have this same PCD, I think some Jag do............. I checked out VR/VS Holden Hubs, but these were unsuitable, ive attached a pic, its not that greatest quality, but you can see that the Datsun bearing cleary has a bigger centre diameter than the Holden Bearing, much much bigger, also the Holden bearings are part of the hub, dont think this hub can be modified, No one had VT hubs Locally, but they are supposed to be very similar, i think modding this hub to suit would be very difficult, http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3483&cat=500&page=1 I think Ford Falcon 1966-72 Hubs might work, but not one single person seems to have them Locally, these hubs use the same bearings as the Datto, so i think they could be made to work, After 1972 Ford went to a Hub/Rotor which was effectively 1-piece, from 1966-72 they used a two piece rotor and hub setup, where the rotor bolted to the back of the hub, like our zed cars, Just finding one is going to be a bugger............... That good news about the Volvo Hub is that you could easily modify it to get the correct spacing between the bearings, its 5-lug, it would appear that its offset is very close to the Zeds and its not a trailor hub, However, Its got a pretty odd PCD, and might get really lucky actually trying to find a rotor with the same 108 by 5 PCD

Well............. Just took some more measurements, Used some calipers this time, & had a look at some WRX rotors (DBA # 52654) The Face of the inside part of the hub is 56.38mm, 56mm, this is soooooo close to the centre of the Subaru WRX rotor, its centre hole is 58mm and the Yank rotor has the correct PCD of 114.3mm by 5, Now if we measure the distance between the hub face and the OUTBOARD side of the caliper strut mounting ears, the distance is 75mm, So if we slip the Subaru Rotor over the face of the Trailor Hub, lets say this soaks up 5mm of the rotors overall height, which is 53mm, therefore 53-5 = 48mm, Using a set of GTS-T 4-Spot R32 Sumitono Calipers which has an offset of 20mm to centre the rotor, So, to centre the rotor over the caliper, we need to push the Caliper's centre out to (75mm-48mm = 27mm), so just use a 7mm flat bracket to mount the caliper to the strut caliper mounting ears, Couldnt be easier Well maybe, but there are only two problems with this, 1 - Its a trailor hub , might be a brave man who whacks one of these on the front of their car, but they are rated at 500kg, and if you used ARP studs i think they would be pretty strong, the engineer will be out next week so ill hassle him for his opinion, see what he says, 2 - The rotors centre hole is 58mm, whereas this Trailor hubs centre is 56mm, but im sure there is someway around this..........its soooooo close Im going to go to some Holden/Ford Wreckers tomorrow so ill see what i can figure out with Hubs, ill try and get my hands on VP to VT hubs and XY/XW/XA-B-C Hubs and see if any suit,

"Hub Face to Fender lip = 100mm," This was hard to measure properly and as blueovalz & Mike have said they have actually put 8" rims on a stock bodied, stock suspenioned zed, my measurement hear must be inaccurate, just hard to get the correct angle of the front guard, "Spring Perch to Hub Face = 125mm" Was much easier to measure and confirms that fact that a wheel with 4.5" (114.3mm) of backspacing will easily clear the spring perch, by 10mm approx, Blueovalz said he had 1/2" (12.5mm) clearance even, Just measuring the outside clearance, from the hub face to the fender is a tad bit tricky, BUT it would be safe to assume that you would have 4.5" worth of Forward Spacing to play with, ie......hub to guard, just from what Blueovalz & Mike have said, Im Sold, 8" rims will fit on the front of a ZED......... ALSO..........ive actually managed to fit a 7" rim with a 20+ offset on the front of a Zed (17by7 with 205/40-17 tyres - no tyre sidewall at all), The rim was about 2mm away from the spring perch, but it cleared and there seemed to be no rubbing at lock, This wheel with the 20+ offset, had a backspacing of 121mm approx, So it probably is even possible to put an 8" rim at the front with a 6+ offset, this gives you the 120mm BS and might help with guard clearances........... But its probably a much much safer bet to go with what Mike has said works, 8" with a 0 offset (114.3mm) 4.5 " of Backspacing, just to be certain,

Anyone out there please correct me if im wrong, But Ross's Hubs look asif they are, 1 - exact replica's of the 300zx hub, & 2 - exact replica's of the 240z hub with 5-lug instead of 4-lug, Just from the measurements ive taken, that Cobra Rotor bolts to the back of the hub, not the front, the offset of the caliper mounting bracket would be massive otherwise,

Spring perch to face of stock 260z hub = 125mm Spring perch to face of trailor hub = 124mm, Its pretty darn close, But Them's Cobra Rotors are 43.5mm in height, The distance between the inboard side of the strut caliper mounting ears and the face of the hub is 90mm (or 89mm with the trailor hub), I dont know for certain, but i would assume that Ross's hubs mount the rotor to the rear of the Hub, and not onto the hub face like you would do with the trailor hubs, these trailor hubs dont have a provision for it - the rotor must be mounted over the face of the hub and not to the back of it, BUT.........if you made a bracket that mounted on the outboard side of the strut caliper mounting ears, could make it as thick as you needed to (to get the correct offset for the caliper over the 43.5mm Cobra Rotor) then mounted the caliper to this bracket, and was then able to mount the Cobra rotor over this trailor hub, which to do you would need to press fit something over the hub centre to match the inside hole diameter of the Cobra rotor (the trailor hub is 55mm approx and the Cobra rotor is larger), It could work, Something like, Cobra Rotor Slips over the face of the hub, Make a press fit spacer that sits around the centre of the trailor hub so you get an exact fit with the centre of the Cobra Rotor inner hole diameter, Then, Make a bracket that offsets the Caliper over the Cobra rotor and this bracket is bolted on the outboard side (wheel side, not the engine side of the strut caliper mounting ears), which you can make as thick as you need to to correctly offset the PBR Caliper over the Rotor, Just taking a shot in the dark hear, but, If the distance between the hub face and the inboard side of the strut caliper mounting ears is 90mm, And you mount the Cobra Rotor over the face of the Rotor, the Cobra Rotor being 43.5mm in overall height, Lets say the Hub face soaks up 5mm worth of that height (as the rotor sits over the hub), Now have 43.5 - 5 = 38.5mm left of Cobra Rotor Height, and a distance of 90 - 38.5 = 51.5mm worth of distance between the inboard side of the Strut Caliper Mounting ears and the back of the Cobra Rotor, Now, The PBR caliper probably has an offset of about 20mm (this is just a guess - ie....Caliper mounting face to where the rotor would be centred in it), Now Lets mount the caliper on the outboard side on the strut caliper mounting ears, this should eat up about 10mm more, So now we are down to 51.5 - 20 - 10 = 21.5, This would mean that our Caliper mounting bracket would have to be 21.5mm thick (which is pretty darn thick or we could bend the bracket out to give us a mounting face for the calipers that offsets it 21.5mm from the Strut Caliper mounting ears, make it out of 8-10mm mild steel and then bend the ends to give us a mounting face for the PBR calipers that are offset 21.5mm from the outboard side of the strut caliper mounting ears, So...............i reckon it would work But........not with Ross's Caliper Mounting brackets, because........... http://www.modern-motorsports.com/c...?products_id=60 See how there are 5 lugs and then 5 little holes that arent filled in on his hubs? Im almost certain these 5 little holes are the screw holes that mount the Cobra rotor to the rear of the hub, and his Cobra Brake conversion does not slip over the hub face, it mounts to the rear of the Hub,

Thanks for that 260DET, ive checked the DBA website and the Holden Rotors would seem to be okay, but there centre hole is a tad bit to large, about 70mm, whereas i measured my centre hub to be at 55mm, As the Holden Rotor would have to slip over this hub right? So........if the centre hole of the Rotor was to large the rotor would be kinda lose sitting on top of the outer face of the hub, except it should be held fairly firmly in place when it gets put on the studs on the hub, but i dont know if this is ok, Also the holden stud pattern is all wrong............but Ford/Nissan/Mitsubishi/Chrysler should be okay,

No one seems to have VT Commodore hubs locally, and the only places that do have them are from Melbourne and Sydney and they want about $200-250/pair - bugger that, what if they dont work......... But as these Box Trailor Hubs use Holden Bearings, it would, you would think, most likely work, that is of course if Holden used the same bearings for all there cars and if they didnt, knowing which Holden bearings the Box Trailors bearings are from, and then getting that Hub, then hoping the offset didnt change much from the original Zed Hub.......... I dont know yet about the brakes, just started measuring stuff.............. For the Fronts, I would have to mount the Rotor over the face of the hub, and the distance from the hub face to the inboard side of the caliper mounting ears = 90mm, Then add say about 5mm for the thickness of the rotor over the hub, then would need to add 5-10mm thickness for the caliper mounting bracket, If i used R32 GTS Calipers they have an offset of about 20mm, so i would need a Disc Rotor with 80-85mm approx overall height, I could possibly mount the caliper on the outboard side of the caliper strut mounting ears, but i dont know if this is such a good idea............this would make it so the Rotor could have a smaller overall height, But i would need to find a rotor with an inner diameter hole of 55mm (this was the measurement of the centre of the hub from side to side) to suit a Nissan/Ford/Chrysler/Mitsubishi stud pattern, not one of these manfacturers has a rotor that suits this very small inner diameter, all are like 67-71mm or more, Does anyone know if the rotor needs to be a flush fit with the inner diameter on the hub when you mount the rotor to the outside side of the hub? If the Rotor does have to be flush with this inner diameter of the hub, finding a suitable rotor aint going to be much fun at all, In fact, I May have to go a set of 2-piece rotors, atleast for the fronts, But this would still be a cheaper option than custom 5-lug hubs.............. As for the rears, I have a theory.................. Use 300zx complete rear brakes, what im thinking of doing is this................ Using the 297mm Rotor, with the 2-Piston Z32 Calipers and the internal handbrake setup, this is how im thinking it might work, The 300zx and the 240/260/280z both have the same rear centre hole thickess (68mm diamter) - bit behind the hub which goes into where the backing plate is, dont know how eles to desribe it Im thinking that the internal handbrake would fit very snugly onto the rear hubs, the only problem would be the caliper mounting braket, it would have to mount the internal handbrake on its face, and then have two ears on the top to mount the actual rear caliper, which from my calculations it would be really difficult to do with the 300zx rear rotors as i figure there overall height of this rotor pushes them past the 240/260/280z mounting face of the backing plate, which your new rear caliper bracket would bolt to, which means you would have to cut'n'weld, and offset the rear caliper mounting ears backwards towards the diff, something the engineer might frown upon unless you got your rear caliper mounting brackets X-rayed, But i think it could work............could even work with 350z rear brakes aswell...........

I know it might sound like im flogging a dead horse, but........... I measured my clearances again today, i jacked up the car and took the wheel off, then i measured from the spring perch to the outside lip of the fender, then i measured from the hub face to the fender, and hub face to the spring perch, this is what i came up with, Spring Perch to Fender Lip = 225mm Spring Perch to Hub Face = 125mm Hub Face to Fender lip = 100mm, I dont know how meaningful these figures are going to be because the lower control arm is at a steeper angle than it would have been if the car wasnt jacked up and the wheel was on the ground (ie.......suspension under load), If anything i would have thought that the Strut leg & hub face would have been pushed out towards the fender lip if the front suspension was under load (ie....wheel on the ground) which would decrease your possible wheel clearance from the 225mm that ive measured, But Mike has actually put 8" rims with a 0 offset with stock suspension on the front of a zed.............my measurements say you would probably just run out of clearance, just, probably..........you would have to slightly roll the front guards