tonycharger72

I recieved an email from John at Johns cars and he confirmed that his kit does in fact work with Right Hand drive Zeds - straight bolt in, works with both left and right hand drive zeds,

Has anyone used CRS's RB into 240/260z engine mounts with success???

So have you fitted the engine in yet? are the mounts ok???

Dont know how strong these engines are, http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=25376 And they are pretty pricey, seen some wreckers wanting $5000AUD for engine packages, spend a little bit more and buy and RB26 or 2jz

I wasnt quite sure where to ask this but, Im in the process of sorting out my wiring harness and was wondering what i was going to do about the gauges, i think i've got the speedo and tacho worked out but still a little bit unsure about what to do with the Oil pressure gauge and the Water temperature gauge, I've pulled the sender units of an old L-26 i have lying around and was thinking i might try and screw them into the 2jz block somehow, Anybody who has done a 1jz or 2jz conversion end up using the stock Datto gauges??? if so, where did you put the Oil & Temp sender units???

Speak to John Washington, he's the bloke that sells those kits, i know there are ways around it, i think you can literally just put lights in the gaps at the front or even get them cut into the panels, even if you did this it couldnt be that expensive, talk to him, he might have some decent suggestions, Someone has managed to get lights in there, http://www.reactionresearch.com/Fisher/index.htm Or http://www.reactionresearch.com/280yz/projectorlights.html

That box looks a little bit like my Supra 5spd box (well it actually looks nothing like my Supra box, because that thing is f#cking huge), but the extension housing for the shifter looks really really similar, I dont know if its possible with the 350z box, but because the w58's are put in all sorts of different cars you can swap the shifters around, i have heard of blokes grabbing the W58 from a supra (thats the one with the extension housing), and using the shifter's of another W58's to bring the shifter back on top of the box,

Much better idea to go the custom's mate, f#ck off the wheel spacers if you can, get the YZ fender flares on the front aswell though, i love the look of the YZ zed!!!

Traub83, I had a look at the rear wheels and from my rough calculations i would say you have about 125mm worth of Back-spacing on the rears, this is usable space available, and about 110mm worth of Forward-Spacing available, So, if we look at the rear wheels you have purchased, "set of 18x9.5" with 35mm offset" Without adapters you have, 10.5" rim x 25.4 = 266.7mm 266.7 / 2 = 133.35mm 133.35 + 35 = 168.35 Back-Spacing 133.35 - 35 = 98.35 Forward-Spacing, As you can see you are going to have a problem fitting these wheels, you only have 125mm worth of clearnace for BS, so lets grab Ross's 40mm adapters again, This has the effect of reducing BS by 40mm and increasing FS by 40mm, So, 168.35 - 40 = 128.35 BS 98.35 + 40 = 138.35 FS, Have 125mm worth of BS available and your using wheels (with the adapters) that give you 128mm approx worth of backspacing, as long as you dont go super huge tyres this should be okay, so you can avoid the smaller OD coilovers for sure, But your wheels are going to poke past your rear guards im thinking, as you have about 110mm worth of FS available and your wheels (with the adapters) give you about 138mm worth of FS, so you will need to get them lipped or use some sort of flare,

I'd love to use a small-block Mopar, i think it would be a great fit into a zed, i used to have an Aussie Charger (A-Bodied Mopar, looks a little bit like a Duster i suppose) and it really hummeded with a 318 in it, but i reckon its just inpracticle when you look at the engine alternatives available, When i was looking at doing an engine upgrade on my Charger (my 318 was pretty f#cked by the end of its life, when i pulled it down 2 of the main bearing caps had actually broken i looked into all of the engine possibilities, 318, 340, 360's, Magnum 318's and 360's and the new Hemi 5.7, but i ended up selling my Charger, In OZ everything starts really costing by the time you ship it out, so i could never justify getting one of these Motors, 318's and 360 remanufactured engines would go for around $2500-$3000AUD mark, New 360 Magnum motors would go for around the $5500-$7500AUD mark, depending on which HP version you went for (think there is a 300 and 410hp version), Then i looked at the mighty Hemi, bout $14000AUD for an engine with very low KM's - might be cheaper now, but F#CK me!!! that was way to expensive, even if you did get the de-activation thing (were 4 cylinders shut down) its still a cast-iron block, pushrod design engine, $140000AUD was nuts!!! But also transmission choice was a bugger with these motors, 904's and 727's are only 3-speed auto's, and putting a tremec behind them was not cheap, But also in OZ i could buy a front cut VH45DE for $2000AUD or an 1UZFE front cut for anywhere between $2000-$3000AUD, to be honest these engine's would sh#t all over the Mopar small-block, as far as weight, technology, durability and price goes, the only difference is the ease of installation of the older Mopar blocks, the HEMI would probably be as difficult to wire in as the Toyota or Nissan V8's, maybe............ In the states the prices would probably be a bit friendlier skewed towards the MOPAR small-block, but still................ If i were to go an old school Carbied V8, i would pick the Mopar over the Chev and Ford, but thats just because i prefer the Mopars - but still if i were set on putting a V8 into my zed i would go with the 1UZFE first, then the VH45DE

Traub83, http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=24_44&products_id=6 These adapters seem like they are 36-40mm offset wheel adapters, so with the fronts you bought "18x7.5" with a 48mm offset", lets assume you get the biggest adapters Ross has got, the 40mm, This increase in positive offset effectley means you will end up with a 8mm offset on the fronts (this is what the adapters do, effectively decrease the wheel's positive offset - ie........push the wheel out), So on the fronts you now have a 8+ offset and 7.5" rims, So 8.5" x 25.4 = 215.9mm/2 = 108mm approx, Now add 8mm to find you Back-Spacing = 116mm Fordward-Spacing = 100mm, Therefore if you use these wheel adapters on the front with you new wheels and tyres they should fit and you should not have to roll your fenders or change to smaller OD coilovers, As for the rears, i cant give you an exact figure at the moment, but i will do some measuring for you tonight and get back to you,

Ummmmmm, probably not mate, You will approx 168mm worth of BS with those rims on the rear, even if you did get coilovers you will probably still run out of space, i think you are going to need adapters on the rears aswell mate, I'd just f#ck off the coilovers and get adapters for the fronts and the rears, save yourself alot of coin,

Hi mate, I thought this might help, http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4611&cat=500&page=1 Its a pretty dodgy drawing and its not to scale, but it shows what i have found through lots of measuring and personal experience about how much room you will find under the guards of a stock bodied stock suspensioned zed, I figure there to be at most 230mm worth of space at the front, i am using different hubs which increase offset 8mm, and using 17 x 8" rims with a 6+ offset and 235/45-17 tyres, this equates to effectively a -2 offset and an 8" rim, Below are pics of the result, Lots of clearance between the springs and the wheels/tyres - 15mm approx, should try and not have less than 10mm, And on the outside the wheels poke past the guards by around 20-25mm, http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4381&cat=500&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4380&cat=500&page=1 In answer to your questions, "for a 9" wide wheel for my Z what offset would i need to buy for a stock suspension setup??" Max space i would say you have is 115mm for backspacing, this is 4.5" approx worth of backspacing available, so for an 9" rim (actaully 10" wide approx), this would mean, 10" x 25.4 = 254mm Divide this number by 2 = 254/2 = 127mm (this is so we get to a zero offset), Now we know that we have 115mm worth of backspacing before we hit the springs, therefore, 115-127 = -12, So, to run 9" rims on the front of your stock suspensioned zed you would need a -12 offset, But we know that we have 105mm worth of clearance for forward-spacing, now lets get back to the zero offset figure, 127mm, and add 12mm to this figure (because this is how much we have decreased backspacing by, so it has the opposite effect on the forward spacing), 127+12 = 139mm, which is 5.47" approx of forward spacing, Depending on tyre choice, i'd say your wheels/tyres are going to be poking past the guards by around 30-40mm, so you are going to need some flares if you want to put 9" rims on the front of your zed, To be honest i think the biggest rim you can stick on the front of a stock bodied, stock suspension zed is 7.5 and you would have to get the right offset, 0 would be about right, anything bigger and you will either need to modify the guards (like i have to) or use smaller OD coilovers, As for the rears, I have the same 17 x 8" rims with 235/45-17 tyres, but no increase in offset, there is miles of space between the spring perch/strut and the wheels/tyres, sorry i dont have an exact measurement for you, But the wheels/tyres sit in a straight plain down underneath the guard, they are perfectly in line, So you could probably go to an 8.5", maybe 9" rim and probably a 255 tyre, but i think that wide would be seriously pushing your luck,

Yeah i have found Haynes manuals in the past to be not the best - Max Ellery, now they make a good service manual ,

jmortensen, Just because the 2jz conversion the exhaust is going to be on the drivers side (passenger for ths USA folks) and the prop valve will literally be less than 1/2" inch away from the exhaust i was thinking of relocating it entirely, but to do this it would just be simplier to completely re-plumb the front brake lines and if not ditch, atleast move the BPV and the Pressure differential switch, but knowing that i dont need the PDS to make my brake system function correctly is good , Nigel, My info was picked up from a Haynes service manual, Datsun zeds 1970-78, models 240z-260z, im assuming this information is probably only good for Aussie zeds, as there is no mention of the 280z, im sure there are little differences all over the world with this car

Cygnusx1, Thats a great setup mate, but for rego purposes i cant mount my BPV inside the cabin - its a shame because i think what you have done is the best place to mount the adjustable BPV, Dave, "The valve up front on a 240Z with a wire attached to it is a self centering pressure differential switch that turns the brake warning light on. The valve in the back is a residual pressure check valve because of the rear drum brakes. With drum brakes a ten pound valve is used to compensate for return spring tension in the drums. With a rear disk conversion it would have to be removed or disabled or you will have rear disk brake drag", I have managed to get my hands on a service manual and it says for 260z models i have a (in order of closest to the master cylinder), 1 - Dual Circuit pressure differential switch, 2 - Pressure regulating valve (Brake prop valve), Both are mounted inside the engine bay, On 240z models, 1 - Dual Circuit pressure differential switch 2 - Pressure regulating valve (which is located next to the diff - NOT IN THE ENGINE BAY, like on the 260z models), So basically both models of zed have the same thing, just one has the stock BPV mounted next to the diff while the other has it in the engine bay, What im curious about now is should i remove them both??? or just the Stock Brake Prop Valve? and keep the Dual Circuit pressure differential switch in my braking system??? I have only spoken to a 1600 bloke and he said get rid of them both, and when i read the explanation in the service manual of what the DCPDS does i thought it would be a good idea aswell - but from what i can gather no ones eles has bothered to remove it when they have installed the adjustable BPV's, they just gut the stock BPV and plumb in the new adjustable one, This is the manual's explanation of the Dual Circuit Pressure Differential Switch, "The switch is essentially a piston which is kept in balance when the pressure in the front and rear hydraulic circuits is equal, Should a leak occur in either circuit then the piston is displaced by the greater pressure existing in the non-leaking circuit and makes an electrical contact to illuminate a warning lamp on the vechicle facia" Might be reading this wrong, but by using an adjustable prop valve you would be changing this "equal" balance which would mean the little bugger would be constanly activating the brake warning lamp, so it would make sense then to remove it from the braking system.............maybe???

"There is only one on a US version 240. There is a plug in the side of it. You unscrew it and you'll see that it has a long needle with a spring on it. Cut that part off, and screw it back in. That's it." Thanks for that mate, I think i figured out what the "other" BPV is...............its got a sensor type looking wire going into it, local 1600 bloke said he was pretty sure it was the "brake pressure switch" or something like that, But either way, i probably should get rid of both of them out of my brake system,

rudypoochris, Took me a while to figure out exactly what was going to happen to the offset/track on the front of my car aswell , PROJECTRB240SX, "So, from your pictures and information a ~+8mm total offset would clear the stock perches and sit inside the wheel arches. A +10mm as planned would require coilovers and have quite abit of clearance between the tire and coils." mmmmmm...........well, i dont have an 8mm offset, i have about a -2 offset on the fronts (because of my change in hubs) and a 6+ offset on the rears, But at the moment i have about 10-15mm worth of clearance on the inside between the tyres/rims and the struts, but my wheels/tyres poke about 20-25mm past the guards, so in answer to your question an +8mm offset on an 8" rim should just clear the spring perches, even a +10mm offset would, but this would soke up about 10-12mm worth of wheel/tyres that is poking past the guards, so you would end up with still atleast 10mm approx worth of wheel/tyres that go past the guards, As you can see from my pics and my measurements there is really no way in hell you are going to be able to put an 8" rim on the front of a zed with stock OD springs and stock guards, You can see that there is clearance between the tyres and the springs of about 10-15mm, when i spoke to ROH and Simmons wheels they said this is about the distance i should aim for, so probably not such a good idea to increase the positive wheel offset and reduce this clearance, So you are left with a wheel which pokes past the guards by somewhere between 20-25mm, Because of my different hubs my offset is -2mm, which is pretty close to a zero offset, my pics show that a zero offset on an 8" rim aint gonna fit the front of a stock bodied/suspensioned zed

Jmortensen, "IIRC you can unscrew the guts out of the stock PV and just cut them off. Then put the plug back in." So just unscrew the guts and cut them out? I might be wrong about this and it might be something eles, but it looks as if i have stock BPV's, as i described above, Do i have two? or is one of them something eles??? If they are both BPV's do i give them both the same treatment or do i just remove the guts from the BPV connected to the rear lines???

Im just about to finish my brake upgrade and needed some advice about where to plimb in my Adjustable brake proportioning valve, Ive got myself a Wilwood BPV and was wondering where to install it, im using R32 4-spots on 298mm rotors up front and a single piston floater caliper on a 286mm rotor on the rears, I was going to plumb the adjustable BPV into the rear brake line, But i was wondering what i do about the stock Zed BPV's, I was having a look today and there is two lines that come out of the MS and go into what looks like a BPV, then 3 lines come out of it, one to the driver's side caliper (passenger for the US folk) and the other two go into what looks like another BPV, which then has two lines that come out of it - one to the other front caliper and one to the rear brakes, What i was thinking of doing was re-routing the lines in and from the 2nd BPV that goes to the rear brakes with the Wilwood adjustable BPV - this the best way to go about doing this??? Also - what do i do with the stock zed BPV's? i have been reading through old posts and some folks have said to get the best end result you should gut the stock BPV's??? Is this the case? If it is, how do you gut them???

"Isn't about 0 offset correct for 8 inch wide wheels on a 240z." Probably not mate, i just recently went out and got a set of 17 x 8" rims with a 6+ offset, i have changed my brakes and increased the front track by 8mm + a side, So a 6+ offset for my car is the eqvilant of using a wheel with a -2 offset, Not exactly zero offset, but pretty darn close, and this is the end result with 235/45-17 tyres, http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4379&cat=500&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4380&cat=500&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4381&cat=500&page=1 As you can see the wheels poke past the guards, but there is a good 10mm worth of clearance between the spring perches and the rims though , im going to have to use flares i think.............or lip the guards