tonycharger72

Can anyone confirm that the S14 200sx rear calipers are the same as the S14 240sx rear calipers??? They look pretty much the same to me, but im not 100% certain and i havent managed to get a definite answer from anyone

ZROSSA, see your in NZ mate, Im pretty close to working out what im going to do with the front brakes, not 100% certain if ill use the wilwoods or use the R32,R33,R34 GTS or GTR Calipers, just waiting on a few bits of info before i make my final decision, There was actually a bloke very close to me who was selling the following to suit a zed, the bloke used to rally his zed Price is $AUD Brakes $4500 Brembo Front Calipers Front Alloy Caliper Brackets (Bolts on Std Mounts) Brembo Rear Calipers Rear Steel Caliper Brackets (Bolts on Std Mounts) New Pagid RS4-2 Brake Pads. Pads last aprox 12 rallies Front Discs x 2 (295x28mm Slotted) VGC Rear Discs x2 (280x28mm Xdrilled) VGC Rear Alloy Disc bells Ex-works front alloy hubs with anti-knockoff system. Braided Lines. (Goodridge Street Legal.) He also worked out a provision for using a mechanical handbrake, seemed like a nice setup But ill let you know as soon as ive figured it out mate

"So now i know, for certain, there is absolutely no way in hell you would be able to fit an 8" rim under a zed unless you flared the guards or used coilovers" egmar..........ummmm, you have flared guards and coilovers on your zed mate, i assume you mean adjustable coilovers with a smaller OD than stock springs when you say you have coilovers, if so, this means that with flares you have alot more clearance than a stock zed would, If you have an 8" rim on your Zed (it actually means its a 9"), therefore, If we start from the stock Zed wheels of, 14 by 5.5 (6.5) with a positive offset of 12+, Backspacing stock = 94.55 Forwardspacing stock = 70.55 & 195/70-14 tyres, There is about 20mm either side for clearance, That is, 20mm untill the tyre hits the spring, 20mm untill the tyre rubs the guard, These are approximations, but they are pretty close, Lets say we want to keep that same offset and go to 8" rim (which is actually 9" approx) & 12+, Backspacing = 126.3 Forwardspacing = 102.3, You have increased you backspacing from 94.55 to 126.3, a total of 31.75mm, & forward spacing has increased from 70.55 to 102.3, again an increase of 31.75mm From the measurements ive taken on my car with stock tyres, stock springs and stock guards with only 20mm clearance, You run out of space on the inside by about 11.75mm & You run out of space on the outside by about 11.75mm, if you use an 8" rim and the 12+ offset, So lets change the offset, We change the offset of the wheels - so it clears the springs on the inside for instance, Take the offset back to ZERO which would increase forwardspacing by 12mm, and clear the springs, NOW...... Backspacing = 114.3 Forwardspacing = 114.3 This would mean that you clear the springs by 0.25mm, but now you will have 11.75+12 = 23.75mm (1" approx) of tyre sticking out past the guards, so now you need some flares, Its the Same problem if you go back the other way and increase positive offset, your 8" rim will smack into the springperch,

"I do have 15x8 rims on my race car with 9" cantilevered tires. fits no problem" Wow...........this is really starting to get annoying Do you have coilovers? Have you flared your guards? Is the car lowered? If no, What is the wheel offset and backspacing?

Thanks for the link AK-Z, but im a tad worried about using alloy hubs, My local engineer frowned upon it and said i would have to have fairly decent documentation about where they came from, who made them and what alloy they were made out of, im sure these hubs are of excellent quality, but it might be difficult to obtain the required specs for my engineer, and even if i did the engineer still said that he still didnt like the idea of alloy hubs for street use, they arent cheap by the time they land in Australia, It would really, really suck if i couldnt get the car over registration because of it, I cant really afford to just put them to the side and them get other Steel ones made up if thats the case, Also i can get them made locally for about the same price as it would cost me to have them shipped over from Canada, Also from what ive heard, doing the rears "properly" requires a little bit more than just re-drilled the rear hubs, ive spoken to a few engineers and car folk and most of them agreeded that i would be better off if i did something like welding up the existing holes and then re-drilling, Im not 100% certain if that was the process though, But the total cost i was given was around the $400AUD mark for the rears to be done "properly", which is roughly $300US - alot more expensive than the $120US quoted on MM's website (but they ask you to supply your own cores), Dont get me wrong, i dont have any first hand experience as to whether you need to do anything other than just re-drill the rear hubs, as far as strength goes, but that is just what others have told me,

Thats a bloody good idea mate, i will do that and let you know what i find out, im sure i should be able to pick up a couple of VT hubs under $50AUD, Then i can take some detailed measurements and see what is required to get them to fit, Atleast get out all my alternatives before forking out the money for $600 Hubs,

When i wrote my last comment no, but about 2 hours later a wheel manufacturer told me that exact same thing, 7" rim approx = 8", 8" rim approx = 9", and so on.......... We live and learn So now i know, for certain, there is absolutely no way in hell you would be able to fit an 8" rim under a zed unless you flared the guards or used coilovers

Local wreckets told me that the s14's had a 2-piston rear caliper and hydraulic handbrake, completely different from the s13's, Then another wrecker said the 240sx calipers looked exactly the same as the calipers he's got from a s14 200sx silvia................. Was also curious, Isnt there a factory nissan Caliper bracket that you can use with the 240sx calipers and the Z31 rear rotors???

This is what i think ive figured out, anyone please tell me if ive got this wrong, Stock 260z with 14by5.5 rims has 12mm Offset 81.85mm (3.22") Backspacing 57.85mm (2.28") Forwardspacing and uses a 195mm wide tyre (195/70-14) So if you wanted to go to an 8" rim and use a 225mm wide tyre, & keep the centre-line of the rim exactly the same as stock so the offset remains stock, Start with the rim, 5.5" to 8" = 2.5" (63.5mm) divide this number by 2 (because you want to add equal amounts of increased wheel width to the inside and outside of the rim) 81.85+31.75 = 113.6mm of Backspacing, So this means that if you use an 8" rim which has a backspacing of 113.6 (4.5") of backspacing you have increased the inside & outside of the wheels in the same exact proportion, I took some measurements of my car and it was hard to be 100% accurate, but i figured that i had roughly 20mm either side for clearance, 20mm between the 195/70-14 tyre and the springperch and 20mm between the 195/70-14 tyre and the lip of the guard, 40mm of space total available, Which would mean you should be able to run 235mm width tyres and it would just clear, 235-195 = 40 but to be on the safe side probably go with 225's, and should have no clearance issues, Therefore, You should be able to go to an 8" rim without going to coilovers and without lipping the guards and run 225 tyres maybe even 235 (but this might be tempting fate) If You have 113.6 of Backspacing on your 8" rim, That is for an 8" rim (203.2mm) 113.6mm Backspacing & 89.6mm Forwardspacing & this also means that increasing to larger width wheels you increase the inside in exact proportion to the outside

Ops, did a search on this one and came up with the following, S13 Silvia's & 180sx's used the same calipers as the 240sx's, So if you are using Ross C's MM rear caliper bracket, you can use, 240sx Rear Calipers S13 Silvia's Rear Calipers 180sx Rear Calipers

Was wondering if anyone could help me out with this, I live in Australia and was wanting to know if we ever got a Nissan that used the 240sx Rear Calipers, Ive been told that s13 silvia's, 180sx's used this caliper but im not 100% certain, Anyone know for sure what Nissan's in OZ used this caliper???

Jamie-T - that is correct, i am concerned about the change in offset the 300zx hubs would create (18mm outwards), thats why i didnt really wanna use the 300zx hubs,

No im sure you right, you sound like you have been there and done that and had the misfortune of loosing a wheel or atleast know some poor bugger who has............ I can get custom front hubs made out of billet steel for about $600AUD, so i think that is probably a better bet, So what about the rears? ive seen people who have done it, but is there any recommend practices? The bloke who quoted me $600AUD for the front hubs said he can also do the rears, Which required "to do properly" to weld up the existing holes and then re-drill for the correct PCD,

Not even the later "Round" Type of hub??? Like weld up the existing holes and then effectively start with a blank hub, then re-drill for what PCD you require Or that is just a no go???

Apparently they are the stock MC's from VT Commodores, Which use im pretty sure PBR 2 Piston 51mm Calipers on the front and a single PBR piston on the rears (I think), pretty sure about the fronts, but not certain about the rears.......... I spoke to an Aussie Distributor of Wilwood Calipers and when i suggested that i use the 4 by 1.75" Superlites up front & 4 by 1.38" on the rears he said a 15/16" or 1" MC would not give me sufficent pedal pressure and i would need to go to a 7/8" & 15/16" split system or use the MC of a VT Commodore which is a 1 1/16", he told me of a brake upgrade he did for a BMW and the bloke used the 1.75" calipers on the front and he said the bloke just had no pedal............ But with the 4by4 and 240sx setup you end up with 4 times 43mm pistons up front and 1 times 34mm pistons out back, Im pretty sure you would end up with a really really firm pedal if you used the 1 1/16" MC with the 4by 4 setup, but if you like a really really firm pedal go for the 1 1/16" MC with the 4by4 setup I dont know if there is any bolt on 1 1/16 MC's to suit the Zeds

These are the prices i was quoted, 4-Spot with 4 equal 1.75" Pistons - Forged billet superlites to suit (1.25") rotor = $235/caliper ($470/pair) & for the rears 4-Spot with 4 equal 1.38" Pistons - Forged billet superlites to suit (0.81") rotor = $235/caliper ($470/pair) Wilwood Mechanical Spot Caliper to suit 15mm Disc = $129/each ($258/pair) These are all Australian Prices, thats $1198AUD or $900US for 4 Brand new 4-spot calipers and 2 Mechanical spot calipers, I spoke to the nice folk at the Brembo & AP racing and was quoted about $1500AUD/pair for 4-spots with 41mm & 38mm pistons, and these are like the lower end of what they sell, But was wondering with the Wilwoods, which ones would i want??? Lug mount or radial mount calipers???

That sucks about the bracket mate, Ive tried his website and the fonebooth one, but they both appear to have dissapeared, Im betting that there will be about 1-5 rotors available that will fit all the requirements for the right caliper offset, width for the caliper..........etc,etc, on the rears, if im lucky , Just of the top of my head, i was thinking of doing this for the rears to find out what Caliper and Rotor should be easiest to fit, Start by removing everything from the rears, Then maybe use the backing plate as a guide of where you want the caliper to mount (as i want to try and use a flat caliper mounting bracket), and the caliper mounting bracket will mount were the backing plate used to, Then take measurements of exactly where the rotor will centre itself under the caliper, Then you will be pretty close to knowing what overall height rotor you need and then start checking places like DBA.com.au to see if they make anything close, Which means you should be able to find out which calipers and rotor should work on the rears before you buy them,

Dont know about the 300zx Master Cylinder, but i'd be surprised if it wasnt a 15/16" or 1" master cylinder, just because the 280zx used a 15/16" and it had smaller brakes than the Z32 300zx, The Wilwood bloke in Aus said that he was helping a guy with a BMW brake upgrade and he said when they went to 4-spots on all four corners and used 44.45mm Pistons on the front Calipers the pedal was really really mushy, so the guy had to upgrade and he went to the 7/8" and 15/16" setup, but the bloke said you could also use the 1 1/16" (it may have been bigger) master cylinder from a VT commodore, which is of a Holden, so it is probably on some Chevy cars in the states?, This is the setup im thinking off, Fronts: OUTLAW 4000series - 4 piston fixed caliper - 47.8 piston diameter - 320mm diameter rotor - 46.5mm wide pad Effective rotor diameter: 273.5 effective piston area: 47.8^2 x 4 = 9139 "brake torque" = 2499517 Rears: OUTLAW 2800 Series - 4 piston fixed caliper - 35.05 piston diameter - 280mm diameter rotor - 42.8mm wide pad Effective rotor diameter: 237.2 effective piston area: 35.05^2 x 4 = 4914.01 "brake torque" = 1164618 Front Brake Bias = 2499517 / (1164618 + 2499517) = 0.68 Rear Brake Bias = 1-0.63 = 0.32% That, or maybe go to a 300mm rotor in the rears, Than use a Wilwood mechanical spot caliper for the Hand-brake, like the guy from this website, www.datsport.com, check out his rear brakes, What are you going to do about the rear caliper bracket for the 4-spot calipers??? I figure the best way to do it would be to have a flat bracket, kinda like the ones that ArizonaZcar uses with his Wilwood setup - just because it would be the easiest to make, But before i go out and buy the calipers i think you would have to know what rotors were available so you could get the correct overall height...............because if you use a flat bracket, the caliper is going to have a certain offset that will put the caliper in a certain position over the rotor, so overall rotor height would be pretty important, 1 - so you dont increase your track 2 - so the caliper centres itself under the rotor Unless you get a custom made hat made up for the rotor to get the correct overall height, but i would really like to avoid this expense,

Jmortensen, thanks for the spreadsheet mate, Just curious, the bloke from the freshalloy.com brake link said the pedal will start to get a bit mushy if you start going bigger than 300zx 4-spots up front and 300zx 2-spot calipers out back, i would assume this is with the stock 240sx Master Cylinder - which probably wouldnt be 1" But, I was speaking to an Australian Wilwood distributor and he said that if i go 4-spots on all four corners, and if i use any bigger than 41.2mm pistons on the 4-spots, a 1" Master Cylinder just aint going to cut it, i will need to go to a bigger master cylinder, He said that i would need to go to the master cylinder that the VT commodore uses (1 1/16") or something like that, or use two, 7/8" & 15/16" for front and rears, Any thoughts? Also, which is better, Outlaw or Wilwood or are they much of a muchness in-comparison to one another???

I suppose to compare the above setups, i would need the original 240-60-80z brake bias, anyone know that???

Thanks heaps for the link mate, This is what ive figured out, there are some approximations, as im not 100% certain about the falcon rear brakes pad size or piston size, but i think they would be pretty close to what ive put down - also, the GTR calipers are thicker, but they have the same sized pistons as the Z32/GTS Calipers, but i dont know if they use bigger pads??? So, the info below is probably not 100% correct, it should be close enough to be useful, Option 1: 314mm Rotors & R32 GTS Calipers - 4 piston fixed caliper - 40.45mm piston diameter - 314mm diameter rotor - 50mm wide pad Effective rotor diameter: 314-50 = 264 effective piston area: 40.45^2 x 4 = 6545 "brake torque": 1727880 Stock 300zx/240sx rear brakes: - Single piston sliding caliper - 34mm piston diameter - 290mm diameter rotor - 40mm wide pad Effective rotor diameter: 250 effective piston area: 34^2 x 2 = 2312 "brake torque" = 578000 Front Brake Bias = 1727880/(1727880+578000) = 0.75% Rear Brake Bias = 1-0.75 = 0.25% Option2: 314mm & R32 GTS Calipers - 4 piston fixed caliper - 40.45mm piston diameter - 314mm diameter rotor - 50mm wide pad Effective rotor diameter: 314-50 = 264 effective piston area: 40.45^2 x 4 = 6545 "brake torque": 1727880 XF Falcon Rear Vented Rotor Modified to suit (286mm by 24mm) - Single piston sliding caliper - 40mm piston diameter - 286mm diameter rotor - 45mm wide pad Effective rotor diameter: 286 - 45 = 241 effective piston area: 40^2 x 2 = 3200 "brake torque": 771200 Front Brake Bias = 1727880/(1727880+771200) = 0.69% Rear Brake Bias = 1-0.69 = 0.31% Option 3: 320mm Rotor R32 GTR Calipers - 4 piston fixed caliper - 40.45mm piston diameter - 320mm diameter rotor - 50mm wide pad Effective rotor diameter: 320-50 = 270 effective piston area: 40.45^2 x 4 = 6545 "brake torque": 1767150 XF Falcon Rear Vented Rotor Modified to suit (286mm by 24mm) - Single piston sliding caliper - 40mm piston diameter - 286mm diameter rotor - 45mm wide pad Effective rotor diameter: 286 - 45 = 241 effective piston area: 40^2 x 2 = 3200 "brake torque": 771200 Front Brake Bias = 1767150 / (1767150+771200) = 0.69% Rear Brake Bias = 1-0.69 = 0.31% Option 4: 320mm Rotor & OUTLAW 2800 Series Calipers - 4 piston fixed caliper - 41.2 piston diameter - 320mm diameter rotor - 42.8mm wide pad Effective rotor diameter: 320-42.8 = 277.2 effective piston area: 41.2^2 x 4 = 6789.76 "brake torque": 1882121 XF Falcon Rear Vented Rotor Modified to suit (286mm by 24mm) - Single piston sliding caliper - 40mm piston diameter - 286mm diameter rotor - 45mm wide pad Effective rotor diameter: 286 - 45 = 241 effective piston area: 40^2 x 2 = 3200 "brake torque": 771200 Front Brake Bias = 1882121/(1882121+771200) = 0.71% Rear Brake Bias = 1-0.71 = 0.29% So, there isnt much difference at all between any of the above setups - goes from about 75% front bias to about 69%

Yeah heard that aswell, but that is about as much information as i can find on it - VT Commodore hubs apparently fit, but everyone ive asked says they dont know what if any mods were done or if the offset changed - no one seems to know to much about it, except someone did it

Wanted to get some opinions from follow members on a brake setup for my 260z, Fronts: 314 by 30mm Rotor - Vented & Slotted R32 GTS-T Caliper (4 Piston - 41mm Pistons) or 320 by 32mm Rotor - DBA4000 Slotted R32 GTR Caliper (4 Piston - 41mm Pistons) Or, Use the above rotor with OUTLAW 2800 series with even 41.5 pistons to suit 32mm discs (got offered some new for $400AUD), I like the idea of using new Calipers, but dont know if the 2800's would be good to use with the following rear brake kit, Rears: XF Falcon Rear Brake Kit 286 by 24mm Rotor - Vented & Slotted Single Floating Caliper (40mm single floating piston - from memory) This is a rear brake setup from an XF Ford Falcon and has a provision for the handbrake,

Thats just for the rears mate

Did a search and couldnt really find any info on this, everytime i put in a search i got people swapping to 300zx hubs............... I was wondering if it is possible and a good idea to re-drill stock 260z hubs for a 5-Lug pattern? They are the round type of hubs,