tonycharger72

This is a Tad off-topic, but 260DET i read somewhere in Hybridz that you were using PBR rear calipers on your Zed and a 4-spot caliper up front??? Be interested to hear about your brake upgrade mate,

2126, check the post i did about 2-up, you can obiviously see that i have searched this site - where eles do you think i got those comments from??? Some people have told me there is no way you can fit an 8" rim on a stock zed (stock springs & guards) no matter what tyre choice or offset, others like yourself say that you can and in fact are running 8" rimms, This is what one Z-expert told me, "125mm (5.0") Backspacing is perfect on 8" rimms with 225 tyres, but could just get away 4.5 (114.3mm)," I know that this is wrong, the rims would slam into the spring perch if i was running 125mm of backspacing for sure, But i will do as you suggest, take the measurements myself

Someone told me that they used XA-XB Falcon Hubs and modified them to suit the Zed, so they could run 5-lug hubs, Anyone in OZ ever hear of this?

Found out a little bit of information about this swap, The 1uz comes in front, rear & mid-mounted sumps, depending where you get them from, front cuts will set you back about $2200-$3000AUD, The engine mounts are bang-smack in the middle of the 1uz block so unless you want the engine sitting right over the crossmember you would have to figure out something eles, Like welding new mounts that come directly off the chassis rails so you can mount the engine as far back in the engine bay as you can get it, Or, Something like that bloke in the USA who is doing a 2jzgte conversion in a Zed, where he is welding in a brace from the crossmember back to the TC rods and the engine mounts sat in them, do a search on this site, there is pics of what he did, As far as gearbox's go, lots of people do complete conversion kits to run the W58 type supra boxes or the R154 boxes, not to sure about the Getrag 6-speed though, Dellow, Castlemaine Rod-Shop and there was a mob in NZ aswell, but i dont remember their name - if you do a search on google and localise it to Aust/Nz there should be lots of results - Dellow quoted me about $2500AUD for a complete kit minus the gearbox, There was an importer in Melb who specialised in 1uz conversions and he said that he always used the stock factory ECU even when a manual transmission was used in conversions, he said he just modded the ECU, didnt really want to go into any more detail than that, so if you want to you could probably use the factory ECU if you ran a manual transmission

No one knows the answer to this question???

I think JSK do it aswell, but i dont know if they are still about, their webpage dosent seem to work........... You could always just go your friendly local engineer and they can make it for you if you give them the specs, but this might be more expensive than MM,

Ok, i have done alot of reading and have bothered alot of Performance Wheel folk The Performance wheel folk seem to be of the opinion that i wont be able to fit the 15by8's on the Zed - but they werent 100% certain..... This is what ive found out..............these are direct quotes lifted from other posts and Zed people in OZ, "The centerlines I just sold were 15X8 with a zero offset (4inch backspacing) and no tire overhang on a stock fendered car with 225-50-15s on stock suspension with 1.5 inches of drop" "125mm (5.0") Backspacing is perfect on 8" rimms with 225 tyres, but could just get away 4.5 (114.3mm)," "My experience was it will be CLOSE! I ran 8" wide wheels with 245s with a 4.5" BS and I had a finger's width between the fender lip and the sidewall." "I just put drag radials on mine. Use a 15x8 4.5 offset and they will fit. I have stock fenderwell, and it does not rub." The above information seems to all point to needing 4.5" of backspacing if you want to use 8" rims on your Zed with stock guards and spring diameters, which means that i could probably just get away with using the Performance Superlites 15by8's and 225 tyres.......... Anybody got an opinion???

Spoke to a local Wheel Manufacturer in Australia - Performance Wheels and was told the following info, Stock 1974 260z has a positive offset of 15+, & i asked about the Superlites & the Challengers, and this is what he told me about the 15by7 & 15by8's, Performance Challengers 15" by 7" -13 offset, 88mm backspacing & +8 offset, 108mm backspacing 15" by 8" -9, 105mm Performance Superlites 15" by 7" 12+, 112mm & 25+, 125mm 15" by 8" -4, 110mm Im more interested in the 8" wide rimms, can anyone tell me if i can fit the 8" rim on my 260z without modify springs or the guards?

Yeah that was the one i was quoting - theres about 10 odd pages about "the z car" - 1984 by Steve Smith Autosports

Cant really justify the expense of coilovers at the moment, dont really have the cash and there is lots of other stuff that i want to do, The offset of the Wheels givin to me be the Manufacturer is 20 positive, I dont know how they worked the increase in offset, But, What they said to me was the centre-line of the rim - by using these wheels it has been pushed out 14.2mm

I was reading through this book and the bloke in it suggests when choosing tyres, "Series 60 tyres - regardless of brand - will cause a stock Z to wander at high speed" Anyone know why this would this be?

But if i wanna road register my car (which i do) i wont be able to use a spacer which is more than 10mm because of the wheels i got already increase the offset by 14.2mm............i can legally increase the offset by 25mm

Im doing an engine conversion that requires me to install larger brakes on my car for rego....... A couple of months back i went out and bought a set of Performance Lotus Wheels (17" by 7"), can see the wheels at www.performancewheels.com.au These wheels increased the offset by 14mm, i can legally increase my wheel offset by 25mm, so i have 11mm of space left, The problem with these wheels is that they are extremely close to the spring perch and at the moment i cant run any bigger tyres then 205/40-17 without having clearance issues, I would ideally like to run 225/45-17 or possibly 235/45-17 (the 235's are alot cheaper to buy is AUS but i will most likely have clearance issues with the guard if i run these) So i am probably limieted to 225/45-17's with these wheels unless i use bigger than 11mm spacers and lip the guards - atleast at the rear, Therefore to run 225/45-17 i will need to increase my wheel-offset by atleast another 8mm to clear the front spring perch, Which it just so happens i can do if i use www.hoppers.com.au hopperstoppers brake upgrade kit for a 260z, they use a BA Falcon Rotor (300mm) and PDR Calipers and to get the rotor centred in the caliper they use a spacer which pushes the rotor out 8mm, thus increasing the offset by 8mm, Then i need to worry about the rear brakes, i was thinking i would use Ross C's rear disc kit (290mm rotor with 240sx Caliper), So fianlly to my question, Anyone got a better idea of how i can increase my wheel offset to use bigger tyres, keeping in mind that i also need to upgrade my brakes and i dont wanna lip the guards? & Does the HoppersStoppers Front Brakes and MM rear brake kit seem like they would work well together?

There are 3 Rotors that i know of that folk use when doing the Toyota 4-spot Vented Caliper upgrade, 1984-85 300zx Vented Rotor (# DBA-608) 1980-88 Peugeot 505 Vented Rotor (# DBA-272) 1987-91 Honda Legend Rotor (# DBA-185) In can find lots of info about the first two, but not much about the Honda Rotor, This is what ive found out so far in regards to the Honda Rotor, Its 282mm and needs to be turned down to suit the Toyota Caliper mounting position, to about 274mm approx, Centre hole needs to be enlargended (hope thats a word) from about 64mm to 81mm, Rotor has 4 bolt holes with a PCD of 114.3 so is a perfect match for the Zed, Its the correct thickness to suit the Toyota Vented Caliper, And the rotor itself has an overall thickness of 51mm, So i would assume that if you used 240z hubs there would be no change at all in wheel off-set, if you used the 260 hubs it would increase by about 7.5mm, Has anyone ever used the Honda Legend Rotors and 4-spot Toyota Calipers?

Have a question about this setup............."Port A" The spacer is 17mm thick and then you use 240z hubs which are 17mm thick, this together with the 1984-85 300z rotor, which is 35.5mm thick gives you an overall height of 69.5mm, And, If you look at the original 240z brakes, 240z hub is 17mm, Rotor is 52mm thick which gives you an overall height of 69mm, Pretty much exactly the same, & the 260z hub is 25mm............. My question is, I want to try and increase my wheel offset by 8-10mm to try and gain some more space between the wheel and the spring perch, Because i want to fit larger tyres on my car At the moment i have, 17by7" with 205/40-17's and you can just fit your pinky between the tyre and the spring perch on the front wheels Im looking at going to 235/45 - 17 because they are cheap and plentiful and will eat up some of the 3" of space between my current tyres and the guard, So could you just use 260z hubs instead of the 240z hubs with this brake setup and therefore increase your wheel offset by 8mm?

This is a setup i have come across for an in-tank fuel system, I was wondering, would this setup work with a Zed with an unbaffled fuel tank if you installed a turbo'd engine? 1 - Purchase R31 Skyline Fuel Tank and Fuel Pump Cradle & Ford Mustang Internal Fuel pump (good for about 500hp) 2 - Remove Cradle from R31 fuel tank and mounting bracket from top of fuel tank 3 - Remove the fuel level Sender unit from R31 Fuel Pump Cradle (as it gets in the way - use the Datsun factory original fuel level sender unit) 4 - Get some 3"- 4" OD exhaust tubing off-cut and attach this to the fuel pump cradle (this is the swirl pot) making sure you have a gap at the top and bottom when mounted into the Datsun fuel tank 5 - Attach the "Low fuel level" sender unit from the R31 fuel pump cradle to the outside of the swirl pot (at a level where you want the fuel warning light to come on, ie.........1/4 tank, 6 - Install the Ford Mustang fuel pump into the fuel pump cradle Now have completed Fuel Cradle assembly ready to be bolted into the Datsun Fuel tank 7 - Cut a hole in the top of the Datsun fuel tank based on the mounting bracket from the R31 Skyline fuel tank, than Install the mounting bracket for the R31 fuel Cradle into the Datsun fuel tank (braze it) 8 - Install the fuel pump cradle setup into the Datsun fuel tank 9 - Connect up the Main & Return fuel lines from the 260z to the "new" in-tank fuel system (may need to use a reducing hose) 10 - Connect up the wires for fuel pump What do you guys think?

Thanks for the replies guys, Im going to be installing a 2jz into my Zed, so im going to try and copy the design used buy PhilUK, the bloke with the 1jzgte into his Zed - both blocks appear to have pretty much the same bolt holes so replicating the mount position shouldnt be to much of a drama, Another question ive got is - What type of Mig Welder should i buy? I've been looking at all sorts of Mig Welders over the last couple of weeks and have sorta formed an opinion.......... I should buy one that can use either Gas or Gasless wire and because i wont be doing anything other than Engine Mounts/Gearbox Crossmember and exhaust a Mig Welder rated at 135amp-145amp Peak Power should suffice??? What do you guys think?

Hey guys, after some advice on engine mounts, Im in the process of constructing new engine mounts & gearbox crossmember for my Zed, I am putting a 2jzge into my 260z, Just wondering how thick steel should i go for stuff like engine mounts & gearbox crossmembers? like 5mm thick? The stock L6 engine mounts look like they are about 2mm thick (really thin) but im guessing because of the extra HP and Torque it would probably be a good idea to go as thick as possible?

Really interested in this engine conversion, Have a few questions for the folks that have done it, How did you mount the engine in Zed? Anybody got any pics of the engine mounts they constructed?

I will mate, thanks for the advice, BTW, love your name mate

Well the tyres i had on before were the 195/70-14's on the stock 14" by 5.5" rims and the car felt so much more secure when going around corners at high speed, Been checking out all the tyre calculator sites and the rolling-diameter of the wheel with tyre is roughly 1.2" smaller than it was before, Its weird, i go around a short corner hard..........the tail slides for a sec, rights itself and im outta the corner, foot has been flat to the floor the whole time Its probably like you said johnc, i've tried to lose the rear end but the car's rear end dosent actually swing out, just "skates" across the road, rights itself and away i go But going around longer looping corners dosent feel as good, with foot flat to the floor i feel like if i dont back off, it wont be to long before my ***-end slides out

I've changed wheels to 17"by7" with 205/40-17 tyres (i couldnt physically fit any larger tyres at the front without hitting the spring perch) from 14"by6" with 195/70-14 and the car now feels different, The effort required to make the car turn has decreased, And The car dosent feel as stable, for example - when im going around looping long corners i feel as if i cant give it as much gas as before, feels like the ***-end is on the brink of sliding out

Im planning on doing some minor suspension upgrades and was wanting to get some opinions, This is what im planning on doing, Upgrade to 1" front sway-bar, Replace Steering-Rack Bushes, Re-located lower control connection on engine crossmember, Go to adjustable shocks on all four ends, Get new springs and drop the car about an 1", will get slightly stiffer front springs and keep the rears at their stock spring rate, My car is a daily driver, so dont wanna turn it into a go-kart, just wanna improve car handling and minimise oversteer, What do yall think?

anybody..............

I've heard this is true if you change to Z31 Jap Spec Struts (Z31 Aussie style have different caliper mounting sizes) - this is what i've heard............ Im in Canberra, where abouts are you? Im thinking of going with HoppersStoppers - they do a Kit for about $1300AUS for 300mm by 28mm vented/slotted front rotors from a BA Falcon, with PDR BA Falcon 2-Piston Calipers, Comes with lines, pads, brackets, everything..........straight bolt-on But you need to use a 1" master-cylinder with this, They even recommend not bothering to change the rear brakes - maybe go to a larger wheel cylinder, but that is about it