Khaserwolf

atm it 50 degress here

O i found out one of my fuseable links was screwed up, i made a new one and my fuel pressure went back to normal and the car was strong but then i restarted it again, then the car kinda died after one rev. now it just only cranks and just wont start any more. Im a do more testing any more. It will crank and crank when i try to start but sadly just wont fure up,. I have high fuel pressure while trying to crank it to start. Im a do more test on it tomarrow

Yea I dont have a big red wire, i swear i think preveous owner did some thing with it. im still trying to seperate the stock from the hack job. But what the big red wire sapose to do?

Just wondering, honestly I rather push the muffler out a bit, but what would happen if i got a muffler under the car and bring the muffler to the side? would that work or make it worse?

ok lets see, it was running at 35-36 psi before it just wouldnt start one day, then bought new pump, then the car was running perfect hell almost 40 psi at idle. then next day, poof dead. Now im noticing it becoming harder to start the car. today it almost didnt start, took a few cranks, each day being harder to start. but i dont seem to lose much fuel presses when trying to start it. yes the pump is reading 12V, but ill cheak it again to make sure but last time it acctually said 14 v on the multi meter

I changed the filter and i changed a secondary filer before the pump. They brand new. But is it possible the fuel pump could be jamed with rust too?. the day it was installed it was giving good pressure, but next day and till now bearly 32 psi fuel pressure

Ok I just replaced my fuel pump and had my gas tank remanufactured. I have a 280z 1978 and when i start it it seem ok but between 1k rpms and 2500 rpm it seem like im misfireing or something, that atleast what it sound like. I can drive the car but after 45 min of driving it seem to just bog out like some one just cut the car off or like it lost fuel boged out and died. Ill coast over on the side of the road and let it sit. Ill restart it and it sound like it about to die, fuel pressure just falls and then it dies. but each time if I wait 15-30 min then the car seem to want to drive again. Now i done reading on the forms here and some one mention cheak or replace power transistor, or i was told other names for that was Ignition transistor, or ignition control mod. I was wondering do any one else think its that or have other suggestions. Oh also the ignition system is still stock.

the power transistor, could it also go by the name of ignition transistor or ignition control mod. (ICM)?

Yes im intrested to see too, the way i got my car, i didnt even know of these compartments, but then again how i got this car, it missing alot of stuff

Also i seem to only get 32 psi fuel at idle, I belive im sapose to get 36 i belive right?

Yea Im also want to know where the power transistor is also? I have a 78 Z and im having the sighs of the car bogging out if the car seems hot too

Im a lon fan of speed racer but when i saw them hack that Z up, i was upset, but i like what the blue team did with the red 240Z.

That the one i was looking at. You have a link to one or where u got yours?

I have a 78 280Z and I was looking to upgrade the stock ignition coil. I was looking at MSD ones and im not sure what to get, unless any one recomend a diffrent brand that would directly bolt in. So what do you all suggest?

lol ok about the motor rebuld comment lol. a friend showed me and was teaching me. But basicly i did 90 percent of the labor. My first overhaul .And the guides i have could be a bit better. But im a look at that link now and see whats up.

Ok i recently rebuilt the motor on a 78 280 Z, with L28 in it, The ignition set up is stock and the car runs but it sound like it missing between 2000 and 3500 rpm and when we took a timing light to it. well.. lol it reading off the timing marks (sever retarded timing) lol. So my question is 1) what should the timing gun read, in other words what is the stock timing degree it should read. (plz forgive my terms, im new to some of these fields) 2 I learned how to cheak to see if the TPS or (throttle positining valve), but i dont know what is the normal resistace it should be reading when you cheak it with a multimeter. Any suggestions will help

I want to thank you all that tryed to help, after all this time, we found out the problem, ecu had mysterously died, and the head i bought that was already asymbled had 3 bent valves and more issuse. I got my stock head rebuilt with a 3 angle valve job. after 2 days of cranking the car finally catch. It lives lol. It still need ajustment but it feel way stronger then before we tore it down. It starts up flawless.

well i havent found a red wire, but i checked all the grounds on the wireing harness. They get good strong voltage. i followed the harness, every thing looks pluged in. Im adding a picture of my fuse links, so u all can let me know if they in the right order.

Ok so we found oit the injectors are getting no power, we hooked a noid light up and saw it wouldnt even light up. So im going to take all the wires alose and re hook every thing back up. So any advice of what u think is the main thing for the harness. Yes im useing the stock 78 fuel injection set up.

Ok after redoing the timming best i could, put the car back together, it doing the same thing. Ok after cheaking every thing 1. Yes we got spark to the spark plugs 2. we hooked up a diffrent battery to the car and the starter sounded stronger but still no start. And after disconection and reconecting the starter, it still tries to start when key turned, with out the clutch being pressed down. 3 now for ssome reason im not hearing the fuel pump, but it was working before we took car apart. Now i getting fuel from the fuel line at the filter. but it dont seem strog of flow when pump on like it use to. 4. I still havent found a red wire then grounds the negative to the engine block, so i made a ground to do that and still nothing lol. How would I check if the injectores are fireing? or is there any thing else that would make then not fire??

REALLY NOW, i dont remmber seeing it, any way you could provide a picture. I honestly dont remmber seeing it

ok so i took the front cover off, (Gurrr) and No the 2 lobes was not what they was sapose to be, so im starting over all over again, i just pary i dont snap any more bolts, lol i already snaped 2 bolts. If this cover have to come off again after this im buying new bolts lol. Any ways, so i was also looking on another topic about timmming and saw this video. Timing video And I hope that a is right for my 280z. Because if so later today im going to try timming it just like that. only think, the gear on the crank, that sapose to have a notich on it, would any one know how i would find it? but atm the camshaft 2 front lobes on cyl. 1 is completly off the springs.

ok i got the motor the the zero mark on the timming and open the cyl. ! spark plug and its at top dead center.but i looked at the cam and it seems off and the timming mark that on that v grove is way off. so would that make it not start. I know u all will probably say yes but im asking any ways, im still new lol also i see the diagram picture of the dis. cap you put up and ill cheak that in the moarning. So once i get timming right, what else would make it not start. Any thing with the vaccum lines? i really need a vaccum line diagram lol

ok i see the timing is still way off, we will work on that tomarrow, but would a weak starter also hurt it as well? the battery is still reading 12 volts

ok ill take a look at it and let u all know what position its at.