ComicArtist

I've seen the writeup on the one with the Equips. Sexy, but a little pricey for me. I'm definitely going to go with the Shakotans, 15x9. I'm having trouble finding the -10 offset though. The lowest I've been able to find is a -0.

Is that a weed plant in the engine bay?

I'm looking for the distance from the bottom mounting point of the strut to the tophat. With springs.

Pretty much. I'm trying to get close to this fitment: But those are real Hayashis.

So, as all the wheel whores are raging about on the interwebs, Rota has a copy of the infamous Hayashi. Anybody running their 15x9 +0? Just wondering what they look like under ZG flares.

Might be a long shot here, but I'm needing the height of the stock strut assemblies of a 280z, preferably compressed and uncompressed. If anybody knows off the top of their head, let me know!

Yeah I was planning on running no less than a 25mm spacer. I'm figuring I'm going to go with a 225, which should be a decent stretch on a 10. Enough to definitely be noticeable, but nothing too crazy. I couldn't imagine running a 265 on it lol From the way things are looking, tire choices in 15"s are looking to be considerably easier to find and cheaper. I buy most of my tires from used tire shops any way, since the only new tires I run are usually on the front of the drift car. As far as rears, I go through them too quick to worry about durability too much.

Trying to find a 16x10 or 16x11 for the back. Having some trouble finding anything that isn't an offroad wheel. Anybody finding anything? I'm looking at some 16x9 +15's right now, but that's not quite as wide as I'm looking to run. I'm wanting to fill up some ZG flares while running 2 - 3 degrees of neg camber. Something like this. Maybe not QUITE as extreme. But close.

I've never tried modifying s30 knuckles, but you might be able to do it the same way I did my Miata knuckles. Either cut and weld, or just drill a new hole farther up the knuckle arm. I'll have to look at my '78. I was going to try to drift my '78, but ended up picking up a Miata for really cheap. Decided not to tear up the s30. It'll be fun though! Can't wait to see it sideways.

If I could find a 1K fairlady, I'd be more than happy. I've only seen a few pop up though in the last few years, and most of them have been s130's.

Just going through all the parts I'd need for a RHD swap on my '78. I'm probably going to get flamed for considering it, but I'm building it for me and not planning on reselling it or anything. Ideally I'd like to find a genuine Fairlady, but it looks like the chances are slim of finding a non rusted Fairlady stateside that's within my budget. It's looking like it'll be less expensive to find a rusted out RHD and swap everything over. So I'll need the dash, obviously. Also the steering rack. From what I've read, I can use my LHD steering column. I can more than likely weld up pedal mounts, but if I find a shell, I can use the mounts off of it. Console, wiper controls. I should be able to move my master cylinders, but I'm wondering what I should do for brake lines. Can I use the original hardlines or would it be easier to use the RHD lines? Thanks

So I'm almost done with my ET swap, and I'm down to the wiring. I've been reading the wiring guide right here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=38461 And under the part for wiring in the FI relay, it says to splice the three wires to 12v switched, 12v constant, and 12v switched for 5 seconds. Thing is, it doesn't say which wires to splice those to to get the desired effect. So..... are you guys just running them to the fuse box, or are there certain wires in the harness I can run these to? Thanks! EDIT: running into more problems. I've gotten to the ignition wiring, and I'm running into some problems. I'm using the engine harness from the '81, but can I use the ignition harness from the '78? I don't have the ignition harness from the '81, but it seems like I should be able to use the '78 ignition harness. Thanks!

Oh okay. So does the L28et only need the temperature gauge wire?

Sweet! I wondered if they were batch fired or sequenced but couldn't find anything. As for the other questions: On the L28et harness there are two plugs that go into the thermostat housing, both are single wire butt connector style plugs. I'm assuming one is for the temp gauge and the other is for the cold start sensor/engine temp sensor. However, on my NA L28, there were 3 plugs. One single wire butt style plug, and two two wire injector style plugs. What should I do with those when converting the harness? Obviously, one of them is going to have to go, but which one? Lastly, I'm running a 240sx throttle body. The plug on the side of the s13 TPS worked fine with my NA L28 harness plug, but will it work with the turbo wiring? The motor going in is an '81 by the way. Pics just for funsies:

So I'm in the midst of my ET swap, and the motor/tranny, ect are all in and I'm converting the wiring harness. Problem is, the harness was off the motor when I got it and I don't know which wires go to which injectors. The lengths of the wires don't lend themselves to showing which injector they go to, so I'm kinda stumped. Thank you! I also have more questions, but I'll save those for a later time.

Okay cool. I'll probably just continue to use the '81 CAS for the time being. I've never timed a CAS before; is there any particular way to do it or is it just like the distributor? And what does it need to be timed to?

Swapping an '81 L28ET into my '78. I have all the parts that came with the motor, including harness, all the sensors, vacuum stuff, ect. However, the CAS bracket was disconnected from the block where it bolts up. Just wondering if I can bolt it back onto there or if I need to turn the crank to TDC or anything before I put it back on. Does it require any timing at all? Thank you! Also, the spark plug wires are all disconnected. If anyone has a diagram or picture of which wires go to which plug from the distributor, I'd appreciate it greatly. Thanks! Ben

Sweet. I'll definitely be watching this thread.

I'm considering doing a 1J swap this summer. I'm extremely interested. Keep us very posted! Also, what kind of header are you using? I've never seen an aftermarket top mount for a JZ that fits in the Z engine bay.

Hadn't thought about heat soaking. Think a turbo blanket and header wrap would fix it?

http://www.more-japan.com/SSR/sp1/17inch.php Those look sweet. If they had more lip I'd dig em.

I'm running the Pallnet rail. Stock barbed injectors.

I'm running a shaved N42 non-webbed intake. Think heat soak would cause the smoking?

Alright I'll check. Are there any other problems you could think of though, that would cause these symptoms?

So I've been having this problem lately with my L28ET. I'm pretty sure it's the seals in the turbo going bad, but I want to get some other guys opinions before I go buy a new turbo or rebuild this one. Whenever I drive the Z, and romp on it enough to spool up and produce boost, and shut it off (giving it the proper cooldown to avoid coking), and then turn the engine back on, the car smokes like it's burning oil, and will barely stay alive. I have to floor it to keep it alive. Once I manage to get it rolling and spool up just a little bit, these symptoms go away. It doesn't happen if I turn the car off and let it sit for an hour or more, only when I turn it back on right after running it. It seems to be turbo related because the symptoms go away as soon as I spool up. I can't think of what it could be besides leaky seals and oil leaking inside the turbo and somehow blocking the exhaust flow. Any suggestions?