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Sweet. I'm sure I can source a transmission at a JY somewhere. Differential might be harder to find, but I'll keep my eyes open.

When my heater core was leaking, I found some nice pools of coolant sitting underneath my passengers side carpet.

By the ZX 5 speed, you mean the NA transmission, not the Borg-Warner, right?

I'm not completely into the F&F movies. Some of them were cool, but mostly farfetched and unrealistic. To the extreme. A few of the cars were pretty sick though. I would love to see an S30 in there. Like none other. Maybe an RB26 swapped one? Or even more badass, an L28ET.

Hmmm. I think there's some good information in this thread. Although, do you think the '78 transmission with the 4:11 diff would make a good combination for acceleration speeds? That's mostly what I'm worried about, even though this isn't a track car. I'm just building an extremely quick street car.

I do have the 5 speed transmission. I'll start looking around at junkyards for turbo 200sx's. I could do the 3:90, but I was looking for the most I could get. I don't really care about top speed as much as I do acceleration. Is there that big of a difference between the 4:11 and the 3:90? How far off would the speedometer be? I did some searching but couldn't find anything definite. Thank you!

I've been looking around at differentials, and I'm really wanting to swap out my 3:54 to a 4:11. I don't know a lot about them, but I've been reading up and apparently they come out of an 85-86 200sx. Unfortunately, I can't find any write-ups on how exactly to do the swap. Also I guess some people are doing the Subaru differential swap, but I don't know how easy that is. Are they bolt ins, or do you have to modify the half shafts as well? Just looking for some tips. Thank you!

My N/A to turbo build is on the verge of being done. The final step was welding the distributor advance, and a friend of mine at Toyota was doing it. But after that, it seemed to lose all power at all. Literally, there's absolutely no pull at all. Fuel pressure is where it should be, it's not running rich, so I'm assuming the power loss has to do with the spark. So, while welding the distributor advance, me and my buddy figured out that my ancient distributor is just crapping out. So I'm looking for either a new, refurbished, or upgraded distributor. Is it possible to put a turbo distributor in an N/A engine? I've never really heard of anyone doing it, but if I could, I should be able to run that without welding the mechanical advance. If not, I'm looking at the MSD upgrade. Just trying to get some input on it. Thank you.

I need the drivers side a pillar trim piece. If anyone has one hit me up.

I believe that's a Kameari. Expensive if I remember correctly.

The AFM DOES have to be directly connected to the intake of the turbo. I did a N/A to turbo conversion so I just used the rubber boot going from the AFM to the air filter box on my N/A engine to connect the AFM to the turbo. I ended up fabbing a mount to the frame rail out of a piece of sheet metal.

I wouldn't opt for cutting springs either way, BUT if I did, I would prefer to cut stock springs over Eibachs.

I didn't replace my head bolts.

If you're not wanting to spend a whole lot of money on suspension, and lower it more than 1", your best bet is to go with the Tokicos and cut your stock springs. You don't want to cut the Tokico springs, for a multitude of reasons. The ride will be considerable rougher though. However you should corner better.

Sounds like replacing that dizzy is your best bet for now. As far as aftermarket engine components with PO's, there's no telling what they did with the coil. An ignition coil is pretty simple though, if you can't troubleshoot it you should be able to look up the part # or model and find a manual somewhere.

Xnke: I remember seeing the reddat stuff on eBay. I never bought anything from him but it all looked pretty crappy.

You've pretty much got two choices; you can remove the intake and exhaust manifold before you pull the head, or you can disconnect the exhaust and pull the head with manifolds attached. Most people opt for this because it's pretty hard to get all the manifold bolts off without pulling the head. The last time I did it, I labeled the wiring harness so it'd be easy to put it back together, pulled the harness to the side and pulled off the fuel rail and coolant lines. Basically disconnecting everything from the head and intake manifold. Disconnected the exhaust at the downpipe. To remove the head, you simply pull off the valve cover. Oh, and make sure you drain the oil before you do any of this. You'll see the bolts holding the head on, they look like big allen bolts. They're 10mm allen heads actually. I want to say there's 8-10 of them. Remove all of those. Now comes for the tricky part. You can either use a pre-made timing chain tensioner wedge (kits are available), or do what some people do and make your own. I know a guy who used a piece of AC hose. You're going to need to stick the wedge down the space inbetween the two sides of the chain underneath the cam gear. Make sure you get it far enough down so that it will keep the tensioner from popping out. I have a picture of it somewhere, I'll try to find it. If you get it wedged right, then you can pull the cam gear, and carefully lift the head + manifolds out of the engine bay. I just stood on the strut towers and deadlifted it out and passed it to a buddy standing by the engine bay. It's not as heavy as it looks. If you've got any questions, hit me up.

It looks like you've got it under control. I wish I had an uncle who knew how to swap an RB20. If I was that fortunate I'd have an RB in my car.

Depending on what's wrong with your existing head, I'd just take it in and have it rebuilt. Definitely get the full gasket kit. Removing the head is easy. I've done it so many times on my '78 that I can get it off in about 20-30 minutes. No pun intended. Just make sure you wedge the timing chain tensioner. The first time I pulled the head, I made the mistake of not wedging. It was hell getting it back on there.

It's a pretty engine. And I know I'D kill for an RB25. But you do need to find out compression and mileage first. After that, you only have to deal with installation. Which gets pricey.

I don't quite get how a L-series sounds like a civic under any circumstances.

This is actually something I've been interested in lately. I'm looking at getting Tokico Illuminas and cutting my stock springs, but I don't know exactly how much to cut them. No one seems to do it the same way, so I'm having a hard time figuring out how much to cut. I'm wanting to take it down about 3 inches in the front and 2 in the back. Should I measure cutting off complete coils, or inches off the spring? Thank you

I installed two 10" electric fans on my recent turbo build, and she appears to be overheating. My temp gauge doesn't work as of right now, and I'm trying to get that fixed, but after running her a short time, she's really hot. Abnormally so. I replaced the thermostat which helped a little, but it still seems to be hot. I'm running out of the downpipe right now, so the exhaust is coming up my engine bay. That should heat things up a little, but I wouldn't think it would have this drastic of a difference. The only thing I can think of is inefficient cooling from my fans. I didn't think that would happen, as I was told on zcar.com that if anything, they should OVERcool. It doesn't look like that's happening though. Any suggestions?

I'm running the ones with halos right now on my '78. They look cool, and they're really cheap and if you're good with wiring they're easy to install. But the lighting is crappy. It's decent, so I'm not complaining. I'm probably going to go with something different later. The only REAL set I found for HID projectors and halos are about $400.

I'm needing the interior trim piece that goes on the pillar in between the drivers window and the windshield. Broke mine trying to install a pillar gauge. Color doesn't matter. Thank you!