ComicArtist

Stivva, I want to see more side view of your car.

The quarters are rolled completely flat, and If I have to I can pull them a hair. Plus I'm running a lower sidewall tire, so I think I might be able to pull it off. Can't wait to see it with the flares! That's actually really good! Most amateur girlfriend model shots aren't that good, but this is surprisingly good. She's pretty and looks at home with that scenario.

Here's the link. There's a ton of pics, but the most recent ones are of the S30. http://s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii224/Comic_Artist/#!cpZZ1QQtppZZ16 I'm also interested. I was hoping to go a bit lower than where you're at, but I was looking at the Rota Shakotans in 15x9 -15 for stock fenders. Ideally I'd like 15x11 with flares, but I don't know. More pics!

I'll gladly pm you some shots, or link to PhotoBucket if you want. BTW, are your Rotas 15x9? And what offset? I saw you were running a 65 series tire, which seemed kind of high but it looks really good. I'm diggin your style.

Few pics. Hopefully should be running within a week or so! Just gotta order new injector connectors and stuff.

Holy fawk I believe you're my hero and you just saved my life. No exaggeration there either. I'm truly grateful beyond measure. I'll pick one of those up at the salvage yard tomorrow if the 77 they have out there has one. The wiring harness is somewhat strewn about but hopefully it'll be there.

So whenever I put the harness back in there was nothing for this to plug into . It's the harness that runs across the top of the firewall to the fuse box and has like one relay on it and then those two green fusiblelink looking wires. Are these supposed to be plugged into somethings?

Got a JDM white wood steering wheel a while back, but I don't like the shallow dish. Looking for something a little dishier. If anyone's got a deep dish JDM wheel they wanna trade, hit me up! Here's a pic of it in my car. If you wanna get ahold of me, text me at 918-348-2921. I'll probably respond quicker than on here.

Sexy!

I actually converted the four fusible links to blade style Maxi fuses. However, I noticed that the two green wires by the harness aren't hooked up to anything, but there's nothing for them to hook up to. I'll put up a picture tonight or tomorrow when I take one. The car's actually in my friend's backyard, since I live at an apartment.

I can't even find the path from the distributor to the ECU. You guys have no idea how much I hate and suck at wiring problems. I don't think I've ever seen so many wires in a harness before. Like, I'm on the verge of scrapping this project and selling it as a shell. I've had the motor in this thing for the last six months and the injectors refuse to fire. Basically, this is what I've done since it's ran. It blew a headgasket, so I bought an '81 L28et longblock from a guy locally. Pulled the original motor and engine harness, painted the engine bay, dropped the new longblock in. I did swap my working original distributor in it. Plugged the original working wiring harness back up to the original working ECU, and nothing happens. The injectors just won't fire. The harness path from the ECU to the injectors is good, so I'm assuming the signal from the distributor to the ignition module to the ECU is not going through. I'm going to the salvage yard on Wednesday to pick up another distributor and ignition module to see if that does anything. If not, I'm probably going to swap in an entire new engine/interior harness, hoping that fixes something. I really hate to do that, but I don't really have a whole lot of choice. If that doesn't work, I'll probably just resort to selling the whole thing. I've put way too much money in this thing, and it's about drained my resources. I love this car, and I have for a long time, but it's not leaving me a whole lot of a choice.

Yes sir. That's exactly my problem. I'm about to check the signal from the distributor to the ignition module, providing the ECU with signal to fire the injectors. Hopefully that'll make a difference.

Still cranking, still won't fire. I've replaced the engine relays, dropping resistors, even a few of the injectors in an effort to get the thing to fire, but it won't. I have the fuel rail pulled out at the moment, with the injectors still hooked up so that I'll be able to see if they start firing. Used a multimeter to test it, and the wiring harness has a complete signal all the way from the injector plugs to where the ecu plugs into the harness. So I figured it was the ecu. Tested it with two other ECU's today, one of which I knew was good, and it still didn't work. Any ideas? It's a '78 ECU and harness.

I kinda want just the R34 tails......

These are the coils I'm going to be running. I'm pretty sure the fronts have pillowball uppers in their camber plates but I should just be able to remove the plates and run an oem style tophat right? I figure I'm just going to have to see them once they come in to figure it out. Should be interesting.

Thanks! That's exactly what I was wanting to hear. The coilover conversion I'm about to do is using 2.5" springs, so I'm going to need a pillowball mount and a smaller tophat, so those should do the trick. Any idea how much they are?

Checking out camber plates on eBay...... these are listed as T3/Techno Toy Tuning BUT I don't see the TTT logo anywhere on them.... just some cheesy little T3 stamp. They appear to be bolt in, but I was under the impression that the hole on top of the strut tower was too small to allow any camber adjustment, which is why we use weld-in plates. Anybody got any ideas?

What do you mean by this?

Sweet! Didn't know that. This coilover conversion will be easier than I thought then. Just a question..... I'm doing a coilover conversion by welding bottom coilover mounts to the stock strut tube. Are pillowball mount tophats necessary for a conversion of this type or can I use my stock tophats?

So the whole cartridge will come out, just leaving the long hollow tube?

Yeah so. As we all know, this is what a typical 280zx strut looks like. I'm going to be using s30 struts, but the picture is just for the idea. Obviously, the shiny damper part retracts into the strut tube. What I want to know, is, how much of the strut tube is filled with oil/gas/damper stuff, and how much is just free empty space? Like, how much room do I have at the bottom of the strut to cut off? This guy cut what looks like about six inches from the bottom: .....and I'm wanting to cut off a little less of the strut, so I have a longer portion of strut at the bottom. I just don't want to be cutting away and have the damn thing blow up and shoot oil/whatever all over me. Thanks!

Wheel gap = no good. lol Lucky bastard. I wish I could ship tires from Japan.

Oooo thats more like it. I really hate running spacers, and those might do the trick!

I'm interested

Damn those aren't going to be wide enough. Why can't they be 15x10 or 15x11. And that looks really good man. I like it a lot. Something looks a little off in the rear though. Have you thought about rolling the fenders and running spacers or less camber? The tires just look too far away from the quarters.