zgeezer
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Posts posted by zgeezer
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Honestly, for your performance goals, your current motor will get you where you want to be; however, I don't think that 3.36 rear end will suffice. Do yourself a favor and upgrade to an r200 (lsd or open) and some cv axles to handle the torque of that motor. Btw, I think that the combo you have might actually net you better performance than you're looking for. Remember, when it's all said and done you're still going to be a few hundred pounds shy of 3000.
The rear end is R200 with clutch lsd and CV joints using MM's cv adaptors and 280 stub axles.
Any insight as to reliability of the Powerdyne unit?
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I need some advice and straight talk. My swap is a 5.3 into a '71 Z. The design parameters are to: 1. Look stock on the outside, 2. to be a quiet comfortable daily driver and long distance cruiser, 3. performance 105 mph & low 13 in the 1/4. The 5.3 is stock with the following: 1. Sanderson's block hugger headers for the LS1 swap; 2. A 2002 Z06 cam, 7.424 aftermarket pushrods, and yellow z06 springs.
I have the stock GM 4speed OD electronic automatic transmission and 3.36 ring and pinion.
I am shopping superchargers. I've just about decided, from different magazine articles rating different superchargers, that I will use a belt driven centrifugal, rather than a Magnusen (sp?) or such. Much of that decision is based upon $$$. I have seen powerdynes on Mustangs and they are quiet and appear to be easy to install.
I recognize that the Powerdyne is limited to low boost (4-6-9#), but are they reliable in this application. I don't "need" 15# boost, but I do neet quiet and reliable.
What is the score on Powerdyne? I have a line on the 9# version, belt drive, off a late Silverado (should fit my lm7) for $1500.00.
Help me decide how to spend my xmas bonus.
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Thanks
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Hi
I'm planning on getting a stock cam send to get re grind, has any of you tried to get a cam re ground and can any of you tell who to use and who to not, i'm planning on getting a streetabel profile that will suit my 40 dellortos.
If any of you also know the price range then please let me here it.
And yes i have tried to use the search machine.
Chris
Try searching on LS1.com and LS1tech.com. Although these two forums specialize in GEN III Chevrolets, there is at least one regrinder in Texas that regrinds LS1 cams for less than $100.00 a copy. Might help.
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Didn't that happen in cali or some such? I think I remember seeing it on wildest police chases or something.
San Diego. The video shows an officer explaining what happened.
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Looks like automatic kickdown.
It also looks like your Lokar throttle cable is waiting for an opportunity to fail. That kink where it passes through the firewall will eventually break.
My '71 had an automatic and has the same square tab on the throttle rod and a very similar mount on the inside firewall. No switch. I'm sure it is a kick down switch.
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If you are swapping an F body oil pan onto your truck GENIII block then be aware that you must modify the truck's windage tray to allow the oil pickup tube to sit squarely into the oil pump. Failure to do this will eventually allow the oil pump to suck air... not a good thing.
When you pull the truck oil pan and oil pickup tube, note that the truck pickup tube runs down the passenger side of the engine and then crosses over to the engine centerline before it drops down into the sump. It is supported by two of the windage tray studs: one on the passenger side and one on the driver's side. The side of the truck windage tray is "windowed" next to each of the pickup tube mounting studs. This allows the pickup tube mounting supports to be bolted FLAT to the windage tray. The F body oil pickup tube, by comparison, is supported only at the oil pump and by one windage tray stud on the driver's side. It is not the same stud that mounts the truck's second support. Be sure to "window" the windage tray along side the "new" stud that will hold the F body oil pick up tube. If this is not carefully done, the oil pickup tube will be "cocked" in the pump and the oil ring will not seal the pickup tube.
Sorry for the lack of pictures, but once you have the truck pan off, you will see the issue immediately. I used a torch to cut out a "window" the size of a four bit piece.
I found these specifications for LS1 camshafts that might be of help to someone trying to sort out some of Chevy's stock cams.
1998 - 2000 Fbody
202/210 int/exh @ 0.05" duration
0.496" / 0.496" int/exh lift
116 LSA
2001 - 2002 Fbody
197/207 int/exh @ 0.05" duration
0.467" / 0.479" int/exh lift
116 LSA
2001 LS6 cam
207/217 int/exh @ 0.05" duration
0.525" / 0.525" int/exh lift
116 LSA
2002+ LS6 cam
204/218 int/exh @ 0.05" duration
0.551" / 0.547" int/exh lift
117 LSA
GMPP Hot Cam
218/227 int/exh @ 0.05" duration
0.525" / 0.525" int/exh lift
112 LSA
GMPP ASA Cam
226/236 int/exh @ 0.05" duration
0.525" / 0.525" int/exh lift
110 LSA
6.0 LQ9
207/196 int/exh @ 0.05" duration
0.479" / 0.467" int/exh lift
116 LSA
5.3 LM7
190/191 int/exh @ 0.05" duration
0.466" / 0.457" int/exh lift
114 LSA
What I found surprising is that the truck cams are ground on 116 or 114 lsa, but the two z06 cams are on 116 or 117 LSA. I would have thought it would have been the other away around.
I have purchased a pull out camshaft for a GEN III engine that has the following numbers engraved on the back side: 5308 S-09 1236. I believe these are Chevrolet numbers and identify one or the other LS6 cams. Can anyone confirm what cam I really hav?. It was sold to me as a 2001 LS6. Yep, I paid $20 for a pig in a poke and now I'd like to know if I got the pig or the poke.
Thanks folks. Pictures of another 5.3 on the road coming to you sometime before the end of the decade.
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I've posted this in the Ford section. I'm posting this here because I think all Gen III owners should be aware that somewhere.... out there.... in a cold garage in the Midwest... next to that tractor with five hemi engines is some guy bolting up a set of Holman-Moody NASCAR Cleveland heads to an LS1. Be aware... they are OUT THERE and they're hungry.
http://460ford.com/viewtopic.php?p=138256
Actually, for me, this would be a refreshing change of pace from the usual csb/Ford chassis/glass body pricey cookie cutter street rods I see
at my local cruise.
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Sorry for not posting any pictures,my cable internet has been down so I am stuck with 56k for awhile.Also the headgasket that we were using was a .030 over HG.As for the headbolts they line up perfect but on the intake side the holes need to be grinded to make a little bigger.And yes the pushrod and lifters are dead on as well. The only thing is where the 302 has oil passages,the ls1 heads are going to just dump the oil into the valley,but there are plenty of holes for the oil to drain back into the block.
Here's a guy that posted pictures of this head swap. This is real hot rodding and thinking "outside the box".
http://460ford.com/viewtopic.php?p=138256
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Hey guys, i looked around for a gas tank for a 73 240z and have come up empty handed. I was hoping someone here might either have one or know where i can find one. It is about the only part i need to bring life back to my once ruined car. Thanks in advance.
I have one out of a series I , 1971 Z that is usable. I think it will fit. Shipping from CA might be expensive.
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Here are some more pictures of my progress. As you can see, the 5.3 can be used as a conversion motor. Oh, BIG THANKS to Dan, he is truely the man, for all his help, I owe you BIG brother.
Miles, that looks great. Do you have any photos of your motor mounts and exhaust manifolds. Did you keep the 5.3 cast iron or use aftermarket?
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Don't buy the LS1 engine loom unless you confirm with the manufacturer that it will fit the LQ4. The truck engines often use different injectors that use a different connector than the LS1. My LM7 truck engine uses smaller connectors for the injector units. My loom is from Street and Performance out of Mena AK as is specifically tagged as truck engine only.
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Im ready to start ordering stuff for the swap and im trying to compile a near complete list of everything I will need for the swap. Already have mounts, d-shaft adapter, tranny mount, and headers.I also need someone to school me on the LQ4 fuel system and how you run that with a Datsun fuel line setup. I want to use the Walbro 255 pump also. Another thing is the clutch setup. The guy who wrote the LS1 swap thread, used a tilton setup, I can get a 3/4 master cylinder, and want to know if that would mount the same and would use the same size clutch line.
Heres my list, If anyone would like to add, feel free.
Component List.
1) LS1 wiring harness and computer – Tune
2) LS1 crank pulley
3) LS1 water pump
4) F-body Alt bracket
5) LS1 intake and injectors
6) Serp belt #060547
7) Goodyear pulley #49003
8) Lokar throttle cable #TC-1000LS148
9) Tilton 3/4 Clutch Master Cylinder
10) Russel clutch adapter # 640281
11) 32†Russel braided brake line -3AN – 90 deg end –
12) JTR radiator kit
13) JCI Driveshaft
14) Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
15) Walbro 255
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It might be the same stuff but not 30 years old. Somebody might have put new in later for some reason. My 77 had the same stuff everywhere and it all chipped off pretty easily. You can try a heat gun and a scrapper but its going to get messy. I've heard dry ice works but I've never tried it.
Dry ice will work if it's tar based. Wrap a brick of dry ice in a dry towel, let it sit on the tar for 2 minutes and then hit it with a small hammer or, better yet, a chisel. It'll break off in chunks. Very clean. No need for solvents, heat, or cleanup.
Try the same thing with ice from your freezer. That might also work.
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The problem is I suffer from engineer's disease. I can’t do anything without agonizing over every other possibility first. It can take me 3 months to figure out what type of screws to use to build my daughter a playhouse.
So from what everyone says POR-15 and zero rust are first class products that do what they say. No worries there. They are durable, require relatively less prep, are a near permanent rust fix and as long as you can get the color you want don’t require any follow up.
On the downside they are pricey (although $115 a gallon is not that much more than the $90 I just paid for a gallon of PPG primer with required catalyst) and both product say they are susceptible in some way to UV light. Thus only use on the underside and not top side of the car.
Probably my biggest worry is compatibility with top coats. Everything I have read says to stay with one “family†of paint. Plus a number of guys have said they had trouble getting top coats to stick to the POR 15. Kind of leads me to the conclusion I had better plan on coating the entire engine compartment with the same stuff one way or the other. Plus the POR-15 route leads me to believe I had better be done working on a piece of metal before I use it. The primer probably has a better chance of piecemeal work.
So back to the original question, if I am starting with rust free metal is POR-15 really needed?
It might be a year or so before I do any type of final top coat. Is it bad to leave epoxy primer uncoated for that long? I know it will require a new coat of primer before it can be top coated. But is it a bad idea to spray epoxy primer and never top coat it?
As for the inside of the Bad Dog rails, I fully intend to paint them inside and out before installing them. I plan to remove the paint in the areas of the welds. It should be a simple matter of repainting the welds and seam sealer once they are in.
Does POR-15 flex at all? Any chance of a floor jack on the frame rails breaking off chunks?
I sandblasted my z down to bare metal and applied POR 15 Silver [high solids] to every inch, including cutting out the rust in the ends of the sills and spraying/swabbing the insides. I left it out in the low desert sun for the next three years as I did some body work and then applied POR "Tie Coat", PPG epoxy primer and then PPG color. UV creates a color shift, from silver into a "dry heaves" yellow/green. As far as I can tell UV d/n affect the integrity of the finish... it did not "chalk up". I do have some small delamination issues that now appear to be the result of inadequate preparation before putting down the epoxy primer. Live and learn. The kids playing baseball in the shop yard nailed my driver's side rear 1/4 panel with a line drive that punched a fair sized dent. The ppg delaminated where the dent crimped. The POR did not. It is flexible. I don't have chips and the product d/n scratch easily.
I recommend it. But, read the instructions well. I don't know what it is, but it sure is not a paint and will not thin with the usual solvents.
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Don't mess with compression. Camshaft and springs. GMPP or aftermarket. Even an LS1 camshaft with springs will be an improvement. My cam guru, using Desktop Dyno, predicts that a 1998 LS1 cam is worth 30+ HP over the stock cam in a 2002 5.3 LM7.
Well.. put a deposit on one, but im picking it up next monday..Anything I should look for/do while it out and on the engine stand?
I might be taking the heads off and putting different head gaskets in the bump the compression up a tad bit. ARP studs be a good envestment or a waste of money.
Only thing that is happening before install is LS6 or better intake manifold, JTR headers, wait4meperformance.com tune with LS1 computer and 8 wire standalone all mated up to a T56.
Just looking for something that would be a worthwhile thing to do while the engine is out.
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I know a 5.3L vortec motor is iron block and heads..
Will a LS1 intake fit on one without too many mods? Will a T56 bolt right? I already have the JTR headers for an LS1 but will they fit a 5.3?
Tell me why I should and shouldn't get a 5.3L for like a quarter of the price of a LS1.
There is a long thread on this subject, along with pictures of actual swaps. Search on 5.3 truck and you will see.
Here is a turbo charged 5.3 into a 240Z http://forums.hybridz.org/forumdisplay.php?f=58
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The L33 is an all aluminum 5.3, rated at 300 hp 330 tq stock. My 2006 GMC 1500 has one in it. I was thinking of going with this motor because of the weight/displacement rules for X Prepared class in autox. I'd love to see someone else pave the way...
Actually, I think someone on this forum has already done this swap. I remember that the truck manifold actually cleared the hood, but not by much. The truck intake, according to one published article, flows very well indeed up to 5500 rpm.
There are differences in the location of the accessory drive and, for some reason, the truck drive is spaced forward one half inch or so. At least, the folks at Street and Performance told me this when I inquired about swapping the truck manifold for an LS1.
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Sure, google "street and performance". There are a number of these switches, usually attached to various aftermarket shifters.
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I have a 280Z with a sbc 350cid motor and a Chevy TH350 automatic tranny. It does not have an inhibitor switch on the range selector at the tranny which would inhibit the starter motor unless it's in neutral or park and activate the backup lights when selector is in reverse. Is there a product that will work off the TH350 tranny and activate the backup light?An advance thanks for any feed back.
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Apparently X15R is the GM code name. I know Street & Performance refers to the X15R in their catalogue.
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I don't know if this is the same trans or not, but one of the new corvettes is supposed to be available with a paddle shifted six speed auto.
Yep, just looked and spoke to an owner of a 2006 Vette with paddles built into the steering wheel. One side for UP and the other side for DOWN. They are buttons, rather than a stalk, mounted on the steering wheel. He liked it.
The gear ratios are 4.027, 2.364, 1.532, 1.152, .852, & .667. Available as a 6L80E. There are other versions listed here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_6L80_transmission
I'm waiting for the first one to appear in a Z.
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Is the 5.3 bored out to 5.7? If it stays a 5.3 then some of the power you expect to gain from the cam swap won't be realised simply because the cam (5.7 LS1) is too much for a 5.3. The LS1 cam is specced to work on an 5.7 engine with 2" intake valves. The LM7 has smaller 1.890" intake valves and the same exhaust valve dia. as LS1. If the LS1 cam is used in the LM7, the whole setup will appear to be exhaust biased which does not help NA power production in general.
The other concern is that in 2003, the cam bearing diameters(steps) changed. It is "possible" the 98 cam won't fit correctly in the 02 block if the 02 block caught up with the 03 change.
If this engine is to go into a Z and you are allowed to remove the cat. converter...you could consider a complete new cam designed for the new application since removing some exhaust back pressure gives more potential gain that can only be realised with a cam specced to exploit the stronger ecavanging effect.
I didn't know about a cam journal change in 2003. Mine is a late 2002, so this is clearly something to consider. Thanks for the response.
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I need some advice regarding a cam swap. I have a 2002 LM7 truck engine with very low mileage. I also have a bare ls1 cam, with less than 20,000 mile on it, out of a 1998 Pontiac.
The lm7 cam specifications from Lt1Tech is: .466 Intake lift and .457 Exhaust lift; Intake duration is 190 Exhaust and 191 Intake; the lobe separation is 114 and the timing is 112/116.
The same ls1 cam is .500 lift for both Intake and Exhaust; Duration is 209 Exhaust and 198 Intake; lob separation is 119.5 and the timing is 117/122
My use will be as a daily driver. A decent idle is important. The only other modifications with be cold air intake, and Sanderson block hugger type headers. I'll be running the automatic trans that came with the engine. I think an L60E . Rear end is a 3:36 with CLSD. Car weight will probably be 2600#.
My advice has run from don't spend any money on this... get a real cam, to
Both are smog cams... get a real cam, to
Keep the truck cam you'll need the torque when passing and it'll be a smoother ride and get better gas mileage with the truck cam. Ride in my Silverado and you'll see what I mean and, finally,
Do it, you can use your stock springs as long as you don't screw with rpm shift levels and its worth 40hp at the wheels.
Gas mileage is not really high on my list of priorities. Reliability is. On the other hand, my "design criteria" is to run in the 13s and 105mph. Which I know is achievable withd the LS1.
Finally, are there any real pitfalls related to using a used cam. This cam was a pull out from several years ago for some big Crane cam.
I'm really cheap. If I can realize hp that can be felt and keep my stock springs I would do this tomorrow. But, what are the down sides to using a 1998 cam in this 2002 engine?
If any of you have desktop dyno or some such other program, please share with me your thoughts.
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Here's a link to street and performance who are offering a 6 speed GM AT model X15R. Look here: http://www.hotrodlane.cc/PDFFILES/X15RMES.pdf This is new to me. Does anyone have any information about this transmission. Is this the heavy duty truck Allison transmission?
Is this a candidate for a swap behind a LS* engine?
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Great photos. When you say c-5 shifter, are you referring to a C-5 Corvette?
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Milesz,Sorry about the PM. I thought you have a manual trans. I used the C5 auto shifter. I don't have the center console over it yet so I don't know how it will look with the center console. I have a few photos of the linkage I made. I used the stock rod/linkage from my 280ZXT. Anyway pictures worth thousand words. GL
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I'm using the stock Datsun A/T shifter. I converted Datsun shifter arm [this is underneath the car and is connected by rods to the Datsun A/T] from the passenger side to the driver's side of the transmission by disassembling it then reassembling with the arm on the outside. The 4L60E truck transmission is cable controlled with the interlock mounted on the side of the transmission. The truck transmission control cable is shortened and a fitting added to the end. Drill a number of holes up the side of the Datsun shifter arm and bolt it together.
You will need to fabricate a bracket that will secure the cable at the shifter end. There are adjustment issues: the various holes you've drilled in the shifter arm allow for adjustment of the cable's "pull" distance. Additionally, the detents inside the Datsun shifter may have to be "adjusted" with a dremel to allow the interlock to function with the Chevrolet transmission detents. I don't have photographs, but the hardest part of this is to find a cable shop that can cut the cable and attach a clevis end. You must have a tight fitting bracket to mount the outer housing of the cable securely otherwise the cable flexes and nothing shifts. I eventually had the Datsun PRNDL working, but the D & L was not quite perfect. The advantage is a stock appearance.
Sorry folks, no photos as this was done with an earlier swap.
I am ready to connect my auto trans shifter but not sure what shifter to use. I have the Chevy Camero shifter but its too big or too long. Need something smaller that will work. I have looked and looked but could not find much info. If any of you guyz have any info or pics on this matter, would love to hear from you.I have the 5.3 with the 4L60E tranny. Need help
81 280ZXT a/t in local salvage yard
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
My local j/y has an 81 ZXT that is pretty complete. MAF is bad, engine reputed to run and is complete. A/T and tripod style CVs. Also late 1971 Z with round SU carbs. At least the SUs were on it this morning. Both these are located Indio, Riverside county, California.
If you're interested, I take photos Tuesday and post them. PM me if you want the address.
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