zgeezer
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Posts posted by zgeezer
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Well here is another who would buy.
Yes he still has the 53 Stud.Like Mike, I want a system that will WORK. I have a pretty nice 78 2+2 I am taking some trim parts off of for my LS1 project. Its A/C blows really cold air out the center vents, really cold if your hand is in front of the vent. Anywhere else it is marginal at best. I don't need fan speed control or the hot/cold lever. Its turn it on high and accept whatever temp it can reduce the passenger compartment to. I want to be able to turn the fan off of high so I can hear something else while driving.
As far as expecting Jack to answer our questions on line, I think he is too busy for that, Maybe if there was enough business coming our way he could get someone in the company. So far 191 viewings and only 4 or 5 people who are interested would indicate there isn't enough interest. What I am hoping is that when he sees how much room there is uinder the dash, he will realize all that has to be done is fabricate a piece to take the refrierant from the evaporator to the fire wall and a couple of brackets. With this I think there are a couple of his generic units that would quickly (if there is such a thing as quickly when working on a Z) bolt in and be ready to go.
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ok what is a M30? I assume this is a Nissan so what model a Maxima? Got a pic?
M-30 = Infinity; sold as Leopard in Japan. Entry level Infinity mid 1990's.
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The JYs I frequent usually have the cars sitting on the ground and usually without stands or concrete. One or the other of the wheels don't turn b/c they are mired in sand or dragging some bent piece. Often, the best I can do is elevate one wheel a few inches above the deck. Here's a rough guide and process with which i've had luck. 1. Elevate one wheel off the ground,
2. Check that parking brake is off, 3. Place transmission in neutral or remove drive shaft, 4. With a permanent marker, mark a vertical line at 12:00 o' clock on the brake drum, or tire that is elevated, 5. Mark one horizonal line that begins on the u joint and crosses over to the differential case. Chose a place on the side of the ujoint where you can see if from the side of the car. Rotate the tire 360 degrees in the direction of travel and count pinion rotations, estimate the last turns and multiple by 2. For example, I found my 3.36 R200 in a 280zx with a/t. The check was slightly over 1.5 turns, but not 1.75, which would be a 3.50 or 3.54. I'm sure others use this, but it has allowed me to really fly through JYs when looking for other ratios.
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I just had a real bad experience with a differential rebuilder. The upshot is I received back from his shop my r200 case, pinion, seals, bearings, ring and lsd carrier back in a box with a rant that I could put it all in a place " wher the sun dont shine". He kept the check though. I paid him to rebuild a 3:36 with new bearings and seals and to install the 300ZT clutch lsd carrier. It came back so tight I needed a 1/2 ratchet with an 8 inch handle to turn it and I could feel "detents" as it moved. I took it back to him after he assured me it would be great after "a few miles" on it. I pushed the issue and he dismantled it all and shipped it back to me. So, here I am and I think I'll take a crack at the rebuild.
Does anyone have a line on a Field Service Manual for the long neck R200?
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You can search this forum for LM7, which is GM's code for the 5.3 L GENIII engine family. You will find threads that discuss some of the differences between engines. Most later truck engines are iron block and aluminum heads and do have different accessory locations and oil pans. There are several LT1 websites that also include trucks. I understand you can downsize the lt1 by using the 4.8 crank and rods. Again, Google is your friend here.
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I am aware of some differences between the looms. Based upon the 2002 5.3 truck engine I have.
1. The injector connections are different. The truck's are smaller than the Ls1.
2. The alternator has a different location, so he connector is different.
3. The LS1 harness seems to locate the computer further "down line". That is the LS1 harness seems to be longer that the truck harness.
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I've had two sets of these wheels. They usually are gold centers, appear not to be painted; anodized, maybe? They should be 14 inch and 6.5 inches wide inside lip to inside lip. The backside should be machined for about two inches. These, or at least mine, do not easily clear MM rear disk brake setup using the 240zx calipers. They do not appear to have positive offset. Mine have no casting mark identifying the maker. Both sets I purchased were on 280zxts. I think they were dealer installed.
I like the old school look and if the centers are painted grey, might pass for minilites for the street. What caught my eye is the plastic "Shelby" centers.
I paid $20.00 a wheel with tires at local jy, which is their standard alloy price. These appear every now and again on z websites offering wheels for sale.
There are a couple of folks who post here who are running these wheels.
Like most things, they're worth what you are willing to pay. If they are not warped, no curb rash, and unbroken, I'd go $50.00 each without working up any buyers' remorse over the transaction. But, hey, I'm the guy that traded a complete R200 LSD & late CV axles for a Nissan 240 "competition hood" that many posters here consider to be "butt ugly". It was a great trade. Now, I'll help you buy those wheels. If those "Shelby" wheel centers are in good shape, meaning not cracked, not too badly oxidized, and the crest in good shape, I'll pay you up to $40.00 for the four. Take photos and send them to me.
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Could be an Ls1 Chevrolet Corvette isolator (mount).
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The S&H can be another profit center. When I ship parts and have a box size that fits my handling is around $2.00 and I round the shipping up $1.00. I shipped my Latham to a buyer in Australia by UPS and the shipping charge for around 45# was around $240.00. I about choked.
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I believe the "mechanical cruise control" is just that: a hand throttle and choke. Pull out the hand throttle and you can cruise mechanically. I guess one might say that a hand throttle is a mechanical cruise control. The pieces look nice and there is always something you can hook up to a cable, blue neon lights for example or maybe a kill switch for ignition or electric fuel pump.
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Hmmmmm. Well, I can think of several old cheap domestic sixes that will put 300hp down without breaking the bank. If that's enough and you don't mind very limited aftermarket support and have a quick and witty answer to the question "Why?", then consider these: a Ford 300ci HD truck engine or Chevy 292 ci truck engine. My brother ran a 300 ci Ford in a 4x4 Comanche in the sand. Good power where it was needed. Often outpulled 350 csb Cherokees.
If your other car is a PT Cruiser, then you might want to go retro, big time retro, and try a GMC with a Wayne 12 port head... . Yes, you can still find them. Then for the engine that you can pass off to the wanabee purists as Nissan's first OHC 6: the Jeep Wagoneer OHC 6 with, I believe, a cross flow head. You can still find these in the JY and I can guarantee you that the JY will sell it to you at any price you name. Still, an interesting engine. If both you AND your wife drive PT Cruisers and one them has a vanity plate reading "ICRUZ" or some variation of "CRUZIN" then the 300 ci Hudson Hornet Flathead with dual carbs is your ticket. Hudson? I think I hear groans out there. Finally, to come full circle, the OHC Pontiac was available for one or two years with a performance version. I think the OHC block would accept a Chevy 292 crank. I've seen only two Pontiac OHC engines in the last three years and both were in JY. I've not seen one of these running on the street for at least 10 years.
Finally, if you are serious, see if Clifford engineering is still in business. They focused only on 6 cylinder in lines for years.
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Yep, it'll work well. Here's site of a turbo propane in a 4wd jeep. http://www.truckworld.com/4x4-OffRoad/96-1957TurboWillys/1957TurboWillys.
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As always, the real question is what do you want to use it for and your personal preferences. Auto is consistent for drag racing; 6 speed, having two overdrives ratios, can give you better gas mileage..... an issue of importance when one kicks in $3.00/gallon or so. The automatic d/n have clutch fabrication questions. I think you answered your own question. You like to row... go for it.
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Most likely someone was talking about all the good stuff you had in your garage.
In my neck of the woods, a really mean dog that bites is a liability. Wire your garage for sound...... real sound. Something like two sirens INSIDE the garage with a stobe light. Four Radio shack cameras feeding a looped tape, inside your house. ADT or other monitored system is nice. The first item is to trigger enough noise and light that the perp is disorientated. The second is to get is good visual record. Although illegal in many states, I use double sided dead bolts... the thought here is if they come in a window, they'll go out that window.
Finally, and not to be too pessimistic: lots of these guys will come back for a second load. Be prepared.
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If you have a 260Z or a 280Z, I'd suggest that you look at pulling the A/C out of a 280Z. Or, and I think this is the better deal, buy the smallest unit Vintage Air has to offer and make a custom installation.
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Any one out there have any information at all relating to the Paul version of the Latham supercharger. Manuals, articles, names of persons who have taken one apart, parts,.... anything at all.
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There are a number of commercial products that spray on as a lightweight coating that contain hollow ceramic spheres and claim up to R10-15, which is a measure of the resistance to heat transfer.... or something like that. Do a google search on ceramic insulation coatings or look at this site for one of many products. http://www.cerama-tech-int.com/Index.html
Wish you luck.
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I have the same car, same ARA dealer installed A/C, and same question. Right now, I leaning to reuse the ARA evaporater, a 280 condensor and dryer, a Civic A/C fan, and the GM compressor that came with my motor. But, I'm also considering the smallest Vintage Air. The advantage, as I see it, to Vintage Air is that every thing is well matched and it will, in fact, work and work well. A bit pricey and I'm not too hot at fabricating mounts.
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Yes, it has been and it is more common than you might think. Look at this: http://www.truckworld.com/4x4-OffRoad/96-1957TurboWillys/1957TurboWillys.html
Do google search on Ak Miller Propane.
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This will be a daily driver with a lot of freeway miles: think I-10 between Palm Springs and Phoenix/Sedona. As long as the Z is reliable, quiet, has P/S and A/C my keeper will not check the receipts. At 76-80 mph I'd like to keep the revs as low as possible, gas mileage, wear and tear, and quietness all jump into the equation.
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I know Nissan produced for their racing program gear sets of 3:1 [3:15?] and I've really looked for them, but I am tiring of the search for this grail. Other than swapping in a Corvette IRS or banging in a Ford live axle, what are my options? I know a 6 speed will do the job, but I'm married to an A/T. Any one know of any aftermarket gear sets, something from another vehicle perhaps.
Any ideas are welcome and, by the way, should you have forgotten, that 3.1 set in the box behind the welder and under that stack of early pin drive minilites belongs to me. Go get it now! Don't ask questions.
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Eric, what would "damned pricey" look like today? I am in the market for something numerically lower than the 3:36 I have.
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I've searched, but somewhere in this thread I thought someone had a short block L99 that was headed to scrap unless someone claimed it. I've been looking for a L99 crank and rods for several months. Is there anything out there. The idea is to use my existing LT1 stuff (spun bearings on crank) with the smaller crank and longer rods to creat a long rod 300CI LT1 that would work with a big or little turbo. Project after project after project.
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You might want to purchase the CD from Street and Performance that outlines the differences between different variations of the GEN III engines. Try here: http://www.hotrodlane.cc/
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Ron Tyler style front diff mount
in Drivetrain
Posted
Yes, there are differences. The holes in the legs are spaced differently. Not a problem, just use use the front hole and redrill the back. But, the tunnel spacing also seems to be narrower in the '70. I had a shop build the mount using the dimensions provided on this forum. I had to shorten the top to narrow the spread of the legs (hmmmm, not quite what I mean, but the mount needed some fitting to use.) It is a very elegant solution to a basic design problem.
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