zgeezer
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Posts posted by zgeezer
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How much do you think they want for that cosmo? It's gotta be saved...old jap tin is getting really rare nowadays.....and more collectible since thier wacky styling is actually starting to look good in light of modern cars.
I know it looks positively HUGE next to a Z car but it's really not that big, right?
(the cosmo) I'm guessing it's about the size of a modern mazda 6?
I've owned three Mazdas. The first was that Cosmo in metallic brown, 13B rotary and AT; The second was an R100, with 13B, 4 speed, racing beat manifold, header, exhaust plugs, msd, mild bridge porting [190hp according to racing beat]; The third is a mazdaspeed mx5. That Cosmo, providing its rust free and pretty much stock IS a better "investment" than the Z. Do an EBay search on R100 and Cosmo. The prices bodies, much less complete running cars, bring will probably drive you back to your friends parents for another go around. Actually, if that Cosmo's has any rust or the interior is trashed I see it as a great candidate for a 13BTT, the 2.0 three rotor, or an aluminum blocked GenIII CSB. Mine had a fatal case of apex seal failure around 70,000 miles. God, what a smoker it developed into!
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Hi everyone,
First-timer here...(go easy on me!) I recently purchased a turd of a 1973 240Z that has suffered at the hands of less-than-thoughtful owners for too long. The car was missing the driver's side steering rack bushing, and the pass. side was pretty rough, with the clamp very loose and obviously a whole lotta slop in the steering. The car has a power steering rack. I ordered a poly bushing kit from Black Dragon, and the set they sent is obviously incorrect. I called to inquire if there were differences in the bushings for a manual rack vs. a power rack, and they said the bushings they had would fit both. The replacements are obviously too small in diameter, with different contours. Can anyone tell me what I need, and what I have? Is this a replacement rack from a later car? Any help is greatly appreciated. I am attaching pics of the grubby rack on my car with a pic of the ID #'s, and a pic of the old and new pass. side bushings. The old bushing had a hole for one of the PS lines to run through, and hasd a totally different contour with a much larger inside diameter.
thanks again for any help!
marc
Sorry Marc, but that rack is not any Subaru I've seen. The "OKC" label rings a bell, but google has 10,00 hits for OKC as in Oklahoma City.
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Hi everyone,
First-timer here...(go easy on me!) I recently purchased a turd of a 1973 240Z that has suffered at the hands of less-than-thoughtful owners for too long. The car was missing the driver's side steering rack bushing, and the pass. side was pretty rough, with the clamp very loose and obviously a whole lotta slop in the steering. The car has a power steering rack. I ordered a poly bushing kit from Black Dragon, and the set they sent is obviously incorrect. I called to inquire if there were differences in the bushings for a manual rack vs. a power rack, and they said the bushings they had would fit both. The replacements are obviously too small in diameter, with different contours. Can anyone tell me what I need, and what I have? Is this a replacement rack from a later car? Any help is greatly appreciated. I am attaching pics of the grubby rack on my car with a pic of the ID #'s, and a pic of the old and new pass. side bushings. The old bushing had a hole for one of the PS lines to run through, and hasd a totally different contour with a much larger inside diameter.
thanks again for any help!
marc
Mark, you may have had a Subaru power steering: the bushing you show that is round on one side and square on the other looks, to me, to be the passenger side bushing for a Subaru Impreza [WRX] or such.
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If the photos do not appear they are all posted on my hybridz photo album.
The short version of this post is that the Subaru power steering rack swap into S130 chassis may require only that the long Subaru inner tie rods be shortened and threaded to use the Subaru outer tie rod ends. The taper on my Subaru outer tie rod ends is a very close match to the steering arms on my s130. This would give you a straight inner and outer tie rod without the bend one sees in the S130 outer tie rod ends. I don't know what effect upon steering geometry a straight tie rod would have. However, I believe one could simply use a hydraulic press to bend the Subaru inner tie rod to match the S130's offset.
We have a post earlier in this thread showing a shortened Subaru inner tie rod threaded to accept the short Datsun "Sunny" outer tie rod. The "Sunny" was imported into the US as the Datsun 1200 in the early 70's. My parts house lists 1971 Datsun 1200 tie rod ends for less than $10.00 each.
Now for the longer version.
I purchased a '90s Subaru Impeza power rack and installed it on my S130 cross members following the suggestions of various other pioneers. I drilled and tapped the Subaru rack to accept the inner tie rod ends from the power steering rack of a 280zx. These inner rods are referred to in other posts as the EV161, which I think is a part number. I purchased two passenger side S130 outer tie rod ends to match to right hand threads of the EV161. I mocked them all up, screwed the outer rod ends up tight to the last thread of the inner tie rods and still had both wheels splayed so far out that I could not adjust for toe in. I resolved that problem by sectioning the outer tie rod ends and shortening each one by .5 inch. My machinist will true up the cut faces, turn each rod, thread them and couple them together with a threaded collar. it works without welding, but it is neither elegant nor inexpensive.
There are differences between the S130 rack, the Subaru power steering rack, and the S131 power steering rack. The S130 rack is on top, the Subaru is in the middle, and the S131 in the middle. Please note the following: The difference in length between the S130 and the Subaru; the difference in the two mounting pads of the S130 and the single mounting pad of the Subaru; and difference in length between the inner tie rod ends of the Subaru and S130 racks. Finally, note that, unlike the S130 rack, the Subaru rack does not have a passenger side mounting boss.
http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=13783&ppuser=7965
http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=13782&ppuser=7965
http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=13784&ppuser=7965
Here are the two sectioned S130 outer tie rod ends, note that each rod has a bend. This bend is not duplicated if you use a straight shortened Subaru inner tie rod end. The lower round S130 outer tie rod end is a Nissan product; the the other is aftermarket.
http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=13787&ppuser=7965
Here is a comparison between the two EV161 [280zx] inner tie rods [on top] and the Subaru inner tie rod on the bottom. Note the length and diameter of the Subaru rod.
http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=13779&ppuser=7965
This photo is a comparison between the upper rack clamps of the S130 and the Subaru. From the left, the square clamp is the Subaru driver's side, the middle is the S130 [identical for both driver and passenger side] and the top passenger side Subaru clamp. Unlike the driver's side, no modifications are needed to the passenger side of the S130 cross member to mount the Subaru rack. I simply used G-force bushings, laid the Subaru rack down, and bolted the S130 upper rack clamp down. Looks neat.
http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=13778&ppuser=7965
The Subaru outer tie rod end is on top compared to the S130 outer tie rod end on the bottom. A quick and dirty measurement with calipers indicated that the taper and width is so close as to be considered the same: at least "close enough for highway work".
http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=13788&ppuser=7965
This is a trial fitting of the Subaru outer tie rod into the S130 steering arm and EV161 Nissan inner tie rod. It is a fit on both ends and appears that when cinched down, I'll have three threads showing. Man, I LOOOOVE these moments. Sorry for the quality of this photo, but it shows that the Subaru outer tie rod fits the S130 steering arm on one end and matches the thread of the EV161 Nissan inner tie rod. I thought I'd died and gone to heaven, but the outer tie rod is too short, pulling the wheels in for lots of toe in.
http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=13786&ppuser=7965
Now this photo is clearer and shows the angle, at full droop, of the Nissan inner and Subaru outer tie rod combination. Note that it runs parallel to the LCA. The stock s130 outer tie rod would bend down at this point. I have no idea of what, if any, effect this difference would have upon steering geometry or handling.
http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=13785&ppuser=7965
This final photo shows the Subaru outer and inner placed above the s130 EV161 rod ends. The Subaru tie rods, both inner and outer, change the shape of their cross section, from round to rectangular and, then, to octogonal. The portion of the Subaru just above the end of the EV161 is octogonal and this is about where that rod should be cut. There appears to be enough meat left to cut threads for the outer Subaru tie rod end and still have wrench flats for adjustment.
http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=13780&ppuser=7965
Time to go. I've only an hour left to get in a lap or two of autox at our fairgrounds.
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that was my post, Before you rush in, check out what racks were utillised in US. In Australia two different racks were used(australian made,and Japanese) racks were quite different to each other( and right hand drive as well)I used the Australian made one which had a tie rod end about two inches shorter than the Japanese ones.
Japanese ones were to long, not enough thick area on tie rod to re-thread.
Was not to difficult to set up, tie rods were shortened and re threaded, steering arms needed a slight reeming to match taper
Tie rod ends should not be to difficult to source, all you need is reasonably short,and inner thread that will match a re-threaded Subaru tie rod,
The thumbnail says it all. Thanks.
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Alright, I need to simplify this whole order/shipping proccess. If you want one of these BRKT's just send an even $ 50.00 to:
AMF c/o Brad Robertson
po box 954
Acton, Ma. 01720
Include a return adrress and I'll get your order right out to you.If your ordering more than one, send $45.00 per each.If your not in the USA,pm me for shipping. I'm getting alot of interest but only recieved 3 checks so far. Those three orders have shipped (Austin,Jon ,Marcus) you should see them shortly
Are you equipted to accept payment by PayPal or credit card?
If not my personal check is in the mail tomorrow.
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That must be them because the old company (B&A) was in Fort Smith as well. Matt is correct on total performance now verses then, but I really liked the performance the 2 barrel heads gave, and those big A$$ heads and valve covers look intimidating in a show car.
When I did my heads, I used nickle rod and welded a square piece of steel plate into the block-side water passage, and then drilled a new water passage hole on the manifold-side surface. A much simpler way to do this is have the square hole machined into a round hole and then simply put a freeze plug in it (which is what I think Bush does from what I see in the 3rd photo (arrow "b").
Don't give up on Ford Cleveland performance yet. Although Clevelands have pretty much been presented as the poster child for wretched excess on one hand and production performance compromises on the other [if this makes no sense to you, peer down the intake port of a '69 4V, past an intake valve that measured something on the order of 2.14 or so inches, and then look at the exhaust valve port: you will understand], the Australian aftermarket produces aluminum Cleveland style heads that should tickle the cockles of the heart of any Ford ' O Phile. Check this out: http://www.chiheads.com/cylinder_heads.php
I think a set of these heads on a 331 Windsor dressed as a 302 Boss would be a real kick in the butt.
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Conside using different tie rod ends - I read on another forum somewhere (an Australian Site if I recall) that a guy used Nissan Sunny/N14 tie rods ends on the subi rack.
Any one know if the Nissan Sunny was imported to US, perhaps under different badge?
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Thanks to everyone. I think I'll go back to the dealer and walk the service manager around this car and ask him if he can count the misfires and it sits there on idle.
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Is there a safe way to weld the 240Z outer tie rod ends after I've cut and sectioned them?
I've installed a Subaru rack and pinion in my 240Z. I drilled and tapped the Subaru rack ends to accept the Nissan EV162 inner tie rods. The two new 240Z outer tie rod ends thread nicely onto the EV162. The EV162 rod bottoms out in the outer tie rod just before the outer tie rod runs out of threads on the EV162.
When fully adjusted to the maximum "short" position, the wheels are splayed out at about 30 degrees: both of them. There is no toe"in", but a whole lot of toe"out".
I cut 1.125 inches [or so] out of the center of each outer tie rod. The cut corrects the toe out to a point that it falls within the range of adjustibility. I intended to weld the sectioned outer tie rods ends together, making a solid, but shorter outer tie rod.
Can this piece be safely welded? If so, what are the precautions. If not, how did others that did this swap deal with toe in adjustment. My brother [the mining engineer Ford guy] has convinced me that to weld these two suspension parts is akin to throwing matches into empy gas tanks. It been done, but is dangerous.
If I weld these two pieces together, will I be giving my life insurance reason to cancel my policy? I don't have a death wish, but there must be way to resolve this problem. Any help?
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Thanks for the reply. The farther I dig on this car, the more I realize that it would probably be best to take all this old junk off and put it back the way it should have been...it has suffered some serious "reverse engineering." The PS lines were connected, but there was no fluid and no belt to the pump. I removed the pump and brackets to discover that the driver's side engine mount bracket was upside-down to accomodate a flat-bar "conversion" that was attached to the lower rail with sheet metal screws...needless to say, that has now been removed as well. I'm guessing that it had been rigged possibly to accomodate clearance issues with what they decided to put back on the car. I think I'm safest going back with an original rack. At least I can ditch all the weight from the junk I have taken off.
I'm now searching for the best place to get a rack...Motorsports is out of stock with a shipment of NOS racks inbound within a month, but I'm sure they'll be pricey. Black Dragon is over $400, and they are cheaper at AutoZone and O'Reilly's. Steeringrack.com has them for under $300. Does anyone have any advice of quality vs. price, and a recommendation of who to get a rack from?
thanks again-
marc
I have a stock '71 sans outer tie rod ends and a tight u-joint you can have for shipping and whatever UPS charges to pack it up. I replaced it with a subaru ps rack. If you're interested, send me a pm.
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The series one bolts are 1.25" apart C/L to C/L while the Ron Tyler mount has them spaced at 2.5". The rear bolts are in the same location so adding another hole on center of the bracket allows one bracket for all s30's.Merely slotting the original holes didnt work.Pics will be up in the morning.
How much are these for the early 240 Z? I may order a set myself. They are good looking.
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This site spoils you.
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My wife's driver is a 2004 PTCruiser with the 2.4L High Output Turbo. We have 59,000 miles on it. Through 55,000 it got a steady 24+ mpg at our cruise control speeds to Nevada and Utah. Very clean exhaust pipe...No deposit on the interior of muffler tip. Does not consume any noticeable amount of oil. Less than 1/4 quart between oil changes at every 3,000. Two months ago, the car began to stumble at idle. At first, it would miss a beat every few days. Now every time we stop at a sign it drops a cylinder every few seconds. The tach just slowly swings between 500 and 760 rpm. The mileage on long trips with cruise control has dropped to 21+ and, sometimes down to 20mpg at steady speeds. The exhaust pipe now has a heavy deposit of black soot. A lot of it and it is not oily. Last month we dropped it off at our dealer for the 60,000 service and repair of problem. Vehicle returned to us with no change. The tech replaced plugs, did whatever else they do at 60,000 miles and assured me that the car "checks out good" and the a/f ratio is right on the money. No change. Still stumbles and consumes far more gas than it did 6 months ago. No CELs have been thrown. To me, the black dry soot in the tail pipe screams that it is running rich. The dealership tells me again that it "checks out" and that black soot deposits in the tail pipe are normal wear and tear and don't worry about it.
Am I just being picky or should I start replacing sensors, beginning the the O2 sensor.
Thanks for any comments.
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Rather than hack up the inner tie rod ends, I sectioned the outer tie rods. These are the bent pieces that run from the wheel to the inner tie rods. I cut out of each outer tie rod 1 1/16 inch from the middle. It seems to have solved the problem. Currently they are butt welded together, but once I am certain the length is right I will cut the weld and machine two flat matching surfaces on the mating end of each section. Each end will be drilled and tapped. The two pieces can then be threaded together using a small threaded rod, such as a 1/4 inch allen wrench that is threaded. Then, I'll tig weld the two together.
Any one out there have a better idea or some thoughts on the process.
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I don't think you'll have any problem driving in the rain with that CAI. There could be a problem with carbs and cold air intakes without provision for carb heat. Under the right conditions your carb would ice up. My 510 with CAI under the bumper would ice up in about 20 minutes of driving through central valley fog in the early morning or at night. Well known phenomena to pilots.
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Okay so I did my taxes and I'm getting $980.00 back so I want to buy a K&N Intake for my car. But I couldn't find one on their site so I guess they don't make them but at MSA I see this...http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PFFC12It has a K&N filer which I guess is all that matters, but any reviews on this good buy or bad buy ? Also I don't mind paying $130 for that but if theres others for cheeper then that would be best, but MSA is 20 minutes away and I was thinking I would buy it tomorrow when I get paid. So anyone run this and I should get better gas miliage right ? And I've been told more HP ? Not sure if that is true though, doesn't seem like it would add horse power. Also I've been warned that you can't drive in the rain with a cold air intake is that true ?
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Actually, it would be a good choice. Check this for Turbo TBird, mostly stock time: http://www.dragtimes.com/Ford-Thunderbird-Timeslip-9233.html
Somewhere, I think on this forum, I read about a 4 cyl Turbo Mustang into the 9s.
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Can you post a pic of the suspension parts on the car? I remember I had to shorten the threaded portion of my inner tie rods a bit to make it all work out.
Nothing done to the outer tie rods.
Mark, I've posted a number of photos of the cross-member with the Subaru rack mounted on my album. Look for zgeezer. Several show that the threaded portions of the inner tie rods extend out past the xmember's mounting pads. Are all Subaru racks created equal?
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I have a 93 or so Subaru Impreza rack mounted on my 240Z cross member. It is centered and the rack was machined and threaded to accept the inner tie rods from an 80 or so 280zx power steering rack. These inner tie rods are both right hand thread. I've purchased two passenger side 240z outer tie rods (the side with right hand threads) It looks good, but when I thread on the outer "female" tie rods, the inner tie rod "male" bottoms out in the outer tie rods. I don't have any adjustment travel left. Both tires have about 2 inches each of negative toe in. It appears that this rack is about 2 inches longer than the 240z: one inch on each side. Has anyone else had this problem? My Impreza rack does not look the same as some other subaru racks (Foresters) posted here. (I have photos in my hybridz album under zgeezer.) My rack tube steps down to a smaller diameter about midway: the passenger side in smaller and the driver's side is the larger. I think my cure is to cut off about 3/8 inch off the outside tie rod and to cut off a corresponding 3/8 inch off the inner tie rod's threaded rod end. Before I dismantle the rack, I'd like to hear from some of you who've made this swap. Did you have to cut the tie rods to fit the rack? Other than returning everything to a machinest, how would you go about cutting these rod ends, which I think are hardened steel. All ideas welcome. Please.
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V8260: Don't even concern yourself with the smog issue and recording the engine change. Your car doesn't require a smog check anyway.The cops aren't going to care what is under the hood.
Gollum and Mr Insane: If you swapped the engines in your cars did you record this with the local BAR office?Wouldn't want any illegals running around.
Mr Insane: Why bother getting the engine swap "legalized" and then going home and yanking off the smog stuff? Kinda defeats the pupose,eh?
Gollum is right. The rules relating to engine swaps in California are byzantine by any standards. The cop on the street standing in front of your car asking you if he has your permission to look in your trunk or under your hood has more pure discretion to piss on your foot and in your pocketbook than most people ever imagine. Yes, if you own a 1971 Vega today and want to replace that DOHC 4 with a 69 302 Z-28, you better dress it as a 350/350 and whistle "dixie" at the referee station. Likewise, with my brother's 62 Falcon with a stroked 69 351W. Today, the Scarab swap would be illegal for a number of reasons: first b/c it was an earlier 327 Chevrolet into a later body and second none of the good stuff in that 327 carry a BAR exemption number.
The Gen III Chevy truck engine I'm installing in my 71Z is TOTALLY ILLEGAL because it is a truck engine. It doesn't make any difference how clean it is or that I've kept all the smog paraphenalia and installed a cat.. it is an illegal swap by definition. I'm still going to do it and I'll also install all the smog in working order. Why? Because the engine was cheap for one and because I'll be prepared to replace the truck engine with the same year LS1, when the cop comes to call. Finally, I don't expect to sell it soon.
What is the risk? If you are young, asian, black, hispanic and drive a lowrider, euro, or heavily riced anything you will be pulled over sometime. That cop will decide if your music is too loud [$1,000 fine and forfeiture of your stereo for second offence, in my neighborhood], if your Apexi is too loud or, maybe your car has too many red/blue lights or aluminum fittings under the hood with "TURBO" prominantly displayed on every body panel. You will get a "fix it ticket" that could ultimately bring you face to face with a referee.
If you are an old white geezer driving a clean quiet Z, you might walk away from the encounter with complements about the car, an 85mph speeding ticket, and a polite "have a nice day" for which the proper ritual response is "thank you, officer".
My brother, in overalls, would simply answer the question with: "Officer that is a 1985 Mustang engine in my 1962 Falcon. I bought it that way 30 years ago." , which would be just about the perfect answer. The politically incorrect response would be: "Officer that's a 2005 Cobra DOHC out of a Mustang, I just put in."
By the way, a few years ago Hot Rod Magazine ran a series, I think, of articles about smogging a Chevy big block swap into a 70'ish Chevelle. In their particular car, they could swap in a BB 454, but NOT a BB 427, although both were in production at the time. Why? Because a BB454 was offered as an option in the Chevelle for that year. Furthermore, I think they had to build a BB454 using an original 454 block for the appropiate year. They did the articles to highlight BAR exempt goodies. I recall their final advice was to run alcohol...not gas because only gasoline engines were subject to the new rules. A novel thought.
Police officers selectively enforce the vehicle code in California.... maybe, even, everywhere. Build the car you want, but understand when you build it the risks involved if it does not or can not meet California regulations relating to engine swaps.
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I'm OK with this chart up until the 280ZX. It doesn't show the 260 2+2 MT which was a 3.36 R200, but none of the charts show that option.
I know the 79's had the earlier trans, but I thought that all MTs came with R200s, and the 79 came with 3.54s. Then everything 80 and later was 3.90, with 3.54 on the AT and turbo. Never heard of a manual with a 3.36 or a manual with a 3.70 on a ZX. Is this list US market, or all markets? Or was I just unaware of some of the possible combos available. Regardless, the last one on the list was what I had. 80 MT 3.90 R200.
I've seen 3 3.36 R200 differentials in the last 9 years. Two were in MT 2+2 ZX and one in a 260 2+2. Bought the last one. Rule of Life: If you want/need it you can't find it; otherwise its everywhere you look.
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Did all 300 turbo LSDs come with the finned aluminum inspection cover?
I've located a 300 turbo with manual transmission, w/o wheels, sitting on the ground in my local pick a part. Standard steel inspection cover, but the label on the door states this is a 1987 vehicle. Is there any VIN code that would tell me if this has the LSD. This car is right ON and IN the muck: there is no way I can turn a wheel without digging it out and having it lifted with a fork lift. Is it likely to worth the effort.
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Bartman, Thanks for the photos. I see that your differential cross member has been modified, allowing you to mount the "X" pipe high into the tunnel. I might be able to do something similar with my long nose R200 if I use a "Tyler" mount.
Two questions: With this system, do you have a resonance/drone in the cabin? If so, at what rpm range?
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I've read the previous posts on exhaust pipe resonance and "drone". I'm designing my exhause system and would like some input.
The vehicle is a '70 240z, which is now a stripped bare shell. Sound attenuation will be added to the shell, but for now I wish input into the exhaust system only. I think this will produce a quiet exhaust, but I really want some comments.
Engine: 2004 LM7 Chevrolet 324 ci or so. Stock. Sitting around since 2004 waiting for installation.
Parameters: Absolutely NO drone between 1800-2550 rpm, which is where I expect to cruise on the highway. Quiet outside: I don't want to advertise as a v8 swap. Visually, must look old school.
Headers: Short block huggers by Sanderson for the JCI LS1 swap, which are on my garage wall or stock cast iron truck manifolds. It appears the stock manifolds will fit. I've been told that block huggers add very little hp over ls1 factory manifolds and are "noisy". I like their looks, but I could go with the stock cast iron.
The current design would run duals with a 3' down pipe for a collector of about 10 inches. A flanged car chemistry 3 disk insert in each collector. The 3 inch pipe reduced to 2.25" on both sides into an "X" or, "H" pipe depending upon clearance [perhaps a flanged "H" pipe just after the reduction from 3.0 to 2.25. I think the "X" will fit just after the AT pan. Each 2.25 inch exhaust pipe into a dynomax reversible SS muffler with two 2.25 inlets and one 3.00 inch outlet.
For those of you running a Chevy Gen III engine, did you use either an "H" or "X" pipe and where did you run it.
This engine is stock and, which the exception of a twin screw supercharger, [Whipple design] will remain stock. There are several Eaton or Whipple based superchargers available for the Chevrolet trucks. I'll be using one of these at about 8-9# of boost and no intercooling and it is a consideration for the design of the exhaust system.
My partner doesn't fuss about the $ or the project car AS LONG AS she can parallel park it; listen to her music, carry on a conversation, and have good heat and a/c.
I understand that exhaust pipes/mufflers will set up sympathetic resonance in the car body, but I'll handle that once I have a design for the least amount of resonance from the pipes.
Sorry for the long post.
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subaru rack s30 inner tie rods long
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Actually, the Subaru rack mounts quite simply. All the real work is in modifying the driver's side mount. I hope my first post made that clear. As you can see from the photos, I had the entire Subaru rack, inner tie rod, and outer tie rod ends laid out before me. I could have just tried to fit the Subaru outer tie rod into the s30 steering arm. By the way, since you are running the straight Subaru inner tie rod, have you experienced any suspension interference or bump steer [or for that matter any lack of bump steer]?
Somewhere on this forum, I believe there is a thread that addresses the sensitivity of power steering at speed. It seems to me that there is a simple mechanical cure related to restricting flow on the pressure side or some such thing or newer pumps being rpm sensitive. It's worth some time on "search" or someone might chime in with link.
Thanks for your input.
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