zeiss150

Hey Dan, What I ment by the statment that the battery runs through it is ... both the horn and the stop lights have a common power sorce from the altinator (the white wire) So im sort of thinking that there might be a problem with the white wire ... but then why wouldn't the fuse for the stop lights blow? I'll chase down the relay for the horn. but im also going to look at the altinator connetion The horn is a direct ground circut ... so... it works by grounding the circut, when you push on the horn button it makes contact with a brass "arm" behind the stearing wheel, which compleats the ground. I hope that makes sence. In answer to your question, no i haven't done anything to the stearing colum electronics. I'll keep you posted, Matt-

thats the kind of tip that I'm looking for! I tried unpluging both horns and as soon as I put in a 20amp fuse it blew...sooo that didn't work but now I have one less thing to focus on. The battery also runs through that fuse. The cover for the fuse block says that the horn fuse (the one that keeps blowing) and the stop lights fuse (this one doesn't blow) have the battery running through the fuses. the stop lights work just fine. only the Horn fuse is blowing... so why would the battery short the horn fuse but not the stop light fuse that it also runs on???? Help! Thanks guys, Matt-

hey guys.... I have a fuse problem... This is what I have 72 240z with a stock wireing harness, 60 amp altinator with internal regulator, zx coil and dizzy (e12-80 module), A new (new to me) fuse block, civic a/c fan (I don't have a/c but I can dream). I was blowing fuses for the tail and dash lights so I tracked down the problem to a rusty marker light housing, I was also blowing the horn/battery fuse and I was wondering if anyone could point me in the direction of finding the short. All of the mods have been in the car for about two years with no problems. I just put in the new fuse block in hopes that it would fix the problem... no such luck. Thanks for your help if you need any more info let me know! Matt-

Ok, so I got some time to work on the fuse problems today. Heres what I found... I replaced my fuse block with a new one (ebay $15 ... excellent condition) and before I replaced the fuse block I took the marker lights apart and they had rust all in them..... hmmmmmmm. So I cleaned up the marker lights and put in new bulbs. Then I put the new fuse block in and hooked up the battery.... Well half my problem is solved. The marker/ tail light/ dash lights work great, no blowing of the fuse. BUT... The "HORN/ BATTERY" 20 amp fuse is an instant blow. I check the body ground and it is tight with no rust or dirt (i took it off sanded both contact points and screwed it back on). Where is this thing grounding out? I can feel a little "Zap" when I touch the car as I get out ... Where should I start looking? Thanks, Matt-

I have a schimatic... I had a few minutes to look around yesterday and it seems that there are two fues that are going bad. I suspect that it might be the fuse block itself. I bought a new one on ebay should be here in a few days. Im going to keep looking though just incase its a ground somewhere. I'll keep you posted! I also read a post about soldering a 12 gauge wire across the altinator side of the fuse block to take some of the load off the fuses... anyone done this? Matt-

none of thoes mods are new, I did them about 3 years ago. I'm water tight in the cab I don't know about the wireing in the engine compartment? What should I be looking for? Matt-

Hey guys, I'm having a similar problem. I have a 72 240Z with mostly stock wireing. I keep blowing my fuse for the dash lights, marker lights and tail lights (I believe they are all on the same 20amp fuse). The fuse dosen't just blow it heats up and starts to melt the plastic of the fuse block. Maybe its suposed to be a 10 amp fuse in there? either way it will still blow. I've had the raido in there for 4 years now and this problem just started a few months ago. What could be grounding out? The only mods I have done to the electrical are, the dizzy (e-12 80), coil (stock 280z), altinator (60 amp 280zx), honda fan, new light bulbs for the dash lights (stock), new radio, and thats it. What should I be looking for? I don't have a lot of electrical experiance but I have an amp meter and I'm sort of smart. tell me where to start looking. Thanks, Matt

no its not the Throwout Bearing... If it was that it would squeek when the clutch was pushed in... and it doesn't. I'm pretty sure that its the drive shaft U joints... How do I replace that? Anyone?

thanks for the input guys... Yes I have the original 72 drive shaft with the "permanent" u-joints. I'll check the u-joints. How do you replace the permanent u joints? do you have to have a machine shop press them out? or am I going to need a new drive shaft? What about the half shafts are thoes permanent also? What do I do about thoes? Thanks again guys! Matt

RPM increase do not have an effect on the squeeking. It's not a belt issue. The squeeking is comming from the drive train. It is either comming from the tranny, u joints, or differential. It only makes the squeeking noise when the car is under load. if I accelerat it squeeks or if I downshift (decelerate, i.e. engine braking). If i put the clutch in the squeeking instantly stops. I don't believe that it is a wheel bearing because there is no squeeking if I just let the car roll with no engine power or braking. It seems to only squeek with "load" on the drive train. Any ideas? Thanks Matt-

no one has any ideas? .... anyone?!?!

Ok my Z started squeeking about a week ago and its bugging the crap out of me. It is NOT the breaks! It only does it under acceleration and deceleration. basicly while the drive train is under load. If I put the clutch in the squeek goes away. Is it the tranny? or the differential? or maybe a U-joints? Nothing "feels" wrong. there is no shake or shimmy. I have a 72 240Z with a stock differential (3:54 R180 I think) the Tranny is a 5 speed from a 80 ZX. I'm using the stock drive shaft and half shafts. Any ideas? Thanks, Matt-

thats the scam. Its $10 worth of parts for $90. they can bleed you that much because they know you cant get them anywhere eles. If only the hardware store had cool stuff like turbo parts. you can always sell water to a thirsty man. Matt-

I think the stock CR is 8.5:1 with flat tops and that head. the 2mm HKS head gasket will lower the CR to 8.2:1. and you should be able to rund stock boost no problem just watch your timing and fuel. and If you intercool and you use an after market computer you can get away with a good amount of boost. There are lots of guys running 8.5:1 CR under boost.... besides, what the worst that can happen.

yeah that will work. It looks just like the kit I bought. mine cost $97 at my local turbo store. Matt-

How do you know it was the same oil you primed the filter with? Was there a different color between the pan oil and the filter oil? Check the little ball bearing next to the filter threads on the block see if it pushes in and rolls. Maybe the oil is going through the filter but it drained back to the pan so it seems like it was empty. does the engine have 15 psi at idle? Are you using a hi volume turbo pump? If the answers to those questions are yes then that seems fine... if you dont have a turbo pump then 15psi is a little high for the N/A pump, my psi is about 7 at idle (7 psi is just a guess, the needle hovers a little above the 0 just like every Z ever made) But then again it sort of depends on your oil viscosity is it 15psi cold or hot, are you running 30 or 10/40 weight? Hope that helped Matt-

wouldn't eurethane engine mounts shake the crap out of the car? don't we use the rubber mounts to absorbe some of the engine shake? I know they sell solid differential mounts but thoes are suposed to make for a really rough ride. Matt-

My N/A L28 flat top block, w/SU's header,N42 head w/cam, with a 9.2:CR, 2.5 exaust, zx dizzy, 5 speed trany, 3:54 rear end, gave me 26 MPG on a 1,000 mile road trip to norther california and back. I think I was a little lean but there were no engine problems. Around town I get about 16 MPG unless I get into the throttle. Matt-

that last post sounds like my sex life:grin:

Yeah thats about it, well... rings, water pump, distributor shaft, main and rod bearings, flywheel, clutch and pressure plate, throwout bearing, thermostat housing, pcv tubing and all other SU venting, fuel lines, timing, head gasket, front cover gasket, crank pully, adjust valves, altinator (modified or stock), timing chain guides, rear and front block seals, water outlet plumbed to heater core and then back to head, and the smelly christmas tree thing that hangs from the rear view mirror. YES! you can do it. I did it! I didn't know $hit about the L28 when I started my rebuild. Now I could probably teach a class on the thing. If you need or want any help just let me know. I live about 25 minutes out side of LA. Drop me an Email and we'll talk. I hope this helps Matt-

that depends on your cooling system. Are you sure thats not a turbo ZX? cause It looks like you have a turbo hood vent? But I could be wrong. I'm not as good with the details of the ZX's. any engine will over heat (at idle or at speed) If your radiator is to small or you dont have good fans or you water pump sucks. You can keep th 3.1 cool. Great looking ZX, Nice score! Matt-

ok here are some pictures...

Suposedly you need the venting to get rid of any fumes. So if you shave them off you will still have the fumes. I asked him about just taking the badges off and he told me that nissan designed the vents to work only one way, with the badges on. I'll put up some pic in a little bit Matt