zeiss150

thanks! I'll see If I can get my wife to be my camera woman... I'll have her wear a bikini. I have to replace my drive shaft u-joints this weekend so I'll have another video for that. I also have part two of the half shaft adventure...so stay tuned for that ... It should be up tomorrow. Thanks again, Matt

Hi, I made a video about replacing the half shaft u-joints on my 1972 240z. So without further adieu... <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/u3sU2SCmDk8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> If you have and comments I'd like to here, please keep it nice. Matt-

WOW! There are some really pompous people posting on my thread. Maybe I shouldn't be allowed to post here any more because of my ignorance. what kind of crap posts is that. for those of you that believe your are the end all be all of Z car information you can suck it! I've been posting her for years and I never come across such crap. None of you asked me if I had adjusted my carbs ... did you! None of you asked me if I replaced the hatch seals (yes even the antenna drain) did you! Maybe I've adjusted the carbs to the point at which the care runs too lean and then adjusted it back to the point of proper afr's. Maybe I did but you'll never know ... because none of you asked. Oh yeah... my tail pipe is pointed at the ground. There were a few good posts and I appreciate your CONSTRUCTIVE help and information. I always want to learn new things about my Z car but I want to learn it from people that aren't trying to prove how much smarter they are that the rest of the morons on the web site. Maybe follow what your mother told you ... if you don't have anything nice to say... DON'T SAY ANYTHING AT ALL! Now, I understand that I might get busted by the mods for this post but at this point I don't care. I was going to post some pictures of my INSTALLED, WORKING catalytic converter, but now ... not so much. I'm just going to let people figure it out on their own. The two or three people (and you know who you are) that messed up my thread with snotty comments are probably the kind of people that have a lot of good information but no one to give it to, because no one can stand be be around them. Please go to another Z web site or at least please don't comment on any threads that I start. Sincerely, Matt A.K.A zeiss150 Just so you know who I am.

Ok I found a bunch of parts that I can get for cheep, honda, nissan... Buttttttttt can I use a 280zx turbo condenser that used R12 with a newer R134 system? Or should I just use all the same kind of parts? Matt-

Thanks for all the replys! I read a post about the "draw through" system. The post stated that it works awesome as long as the system is sealed. if there are any leaks before the evaporator its not going to cool. I like the idea of using a honda civic or nissan sentra A/C system. they seem small, clean and usable. but how do I addapt it to the 240 setup? I'm sure its not a draw through... and can I put a "push through" system in a 240Z? thanks again guys Matt-

Hi Guys! I've searched high and low, and I can't seem to find a thread on building a really good custom air conditioning system for the 240Z's. I saw a thread where a guy was gonna do it, but then it turned into a a condenser argument, so anyway... My Goal = have a 1972 240Z with a kick a$$ air conditioning system. My plan = NOTHING! This is where I need your help. I can build and fix just about anything, with enough time, money, and advice. so I need your advice on what parts I can get from the bone yard that will work with a 240Z (it can be from any car as long as it will work). I know I need a condenser, evaporator, compressor and hoses to connect them as well as some sort of a box to hold the evaporator that goes under the dash. I would also need the "on off" switch and any other electronics But other than that, I don't know what I need or HOW TO PUT IT ALL TOGETHER. I did change my 240 fan to a honda fan... it blows hard, so I have that taken care of. so you guys suggest it and I'LL do it... sounds like fun! right? YES! I do know that Motorsport sells a brand new A/C kit .... I don't want to spend $1400! And I like to do things myself. I also know about vintage air...same problem, to much money, not enough "fun". So, drop some knowledge on me! Tell me what you have used from other cars or what I should use from an old ZX or whatever. Thanks, Matt P.S. if no body has ever done this or thought about it I will just wing it and turn this into an A/C build thread...whats the worst that can happen?

oil on the bottom of the oil pain could be coming from any where. the road, the valve cover, a main seal, the oil pain gasket, oil filer, it could be lots of different things. if its from the oil pan gasket, you can try to re-tighten the bolts and see if it stops. if it is the oil pan gasket its easy to replace. just take the bolts off, remove the pan, flatten out the raised bolt holes (this is very important, because the new gasket may not seal if you don't) and then put the pan back on with a new gasket and tighten the bolts. if you still have a leak after that... its has to be comming from somewhere else. Good luck! Matt-

In answer to the question Why would I put a catalytic converter on a 240z... the answer is ... Because I'm tired of smelling like exhaust. And its worth the 3 BHP that I will loose to not smell like exhaust when I get done driving my Z. My Z is running great. It doesn't even smell that bad... but I don't want any smell. I heard they came from the factory smelling like exhaust... so why not put some tech into getting rid of that problem. My Cat should be here in a few days I'll post up some pictures of where I place it. Matt-

So between the 2 into 1 and the next straight section? Will it fit there? Or should I just put it as close to the engine as I can fit it. Anyone done this? If so PICTURES PLEASE! Matt-

Hi Guys I just bought a Catalytic converter that I'm going to put on my 72 240z and I'm wondering where is the best place to put it. I have an L28 with 2.5 inch exhaust all the way back. The cat is 13 inches long and 4" deep 9 inches wide. Any suggestions? Thanks Matt-

I don't think it was a warp in the header. it was the very center of the exhaust flange only about 3 inches and then it sealed again. I think the bolts just weren't tight enough. It seems to be sealed just fine now. No exhaust leak so far. My car is pretty buttoned up. I have all the door and hatch seals nice and tight. I also have my tail pipe pointed at the ground. I'm just going to re-tighten the nuts one more time and make sure they didn't loosen and then I'm gonna leave it! Rock on party people! Matt-

Everything looks good. I don't seem to have any leaks yet. I'll go back and re torque the studs after a few more warm up cycles. By the Way I'm using an SU and header setup with a P90 head. So far it seems to be working GREAT! Thanks for the advice! Oh yeah when i took off the old gasket I could see that I had a massive exhaust leak right at the center of the header. You can see were the gasket wasn't sealing. Now wonder I always smelled like exhaust! Matt-

ITS ALIVE!!!!! The gasket worked great. no leaks! The head is working awesome. Much smoother than the N42 with the schnider cam I had in there. That N42 head was just to "lopey". Now I just need to fix the other 200 things wrong with my Z and it'll be perfect! Thanks for the help guys and just in case anyone was wondering ... YES, you can reused a steel head gasket. May the force be with you! Matt-

Ok I reused it. I sprayed it down with "brake cleaner" and that striped the "rubber coating" off of the gasket and left me with a clean steel surface. I put three coats of copper spray on it and let it dry for over an hour. Then I put it on the block and put the head on. We'll see tomorrow if it worked. If its leaking water I'm gonna be pissed. I'm 95% sure it will work. I'll update tomorrow. Thanks for the advice guys! Matt-

I torqued the manifold nuts to about 10lbs (the manual says 8lbs but whats an extra 2 lbs?) and I was able to get a torque wrench on almost all of them. I think there were 2 that I couldn't get a wrench to so I just used my built in torque wrench in my elbow. I'll have the head all buttoned up tomorrow and I'll crank it over and see if I have any exhaust leaks. Thanks for the help guys! Matt-

Yeah I'm using studs. I just wish I could get a torque wrench on them... oh well.

they Haynes manual says that the torque is 8#'s that's not very much. I suppose that is just "tight". I just don't want an exhaust leak. Does anyone know if the turbo manifold gasket is any better or does it matter? Matt-

Hey Guys! I was wondering if anyone had tips on getting an a torque wrench on to the exhaust nuts. I can't seem to get a socket onto the nuts in a way that I can use a torque wrench. I think last time I used a wrench and just "guessed" when it was torqued enough (Lame, I know!) So any advice would be AWESOME! I wanna make sure I don't have any exhaust leaks when I put it all back together again. May the force be with you! Matt-

wow does time fly! I started this thread in 2006 and I just pulled my n42 head off TODAY! So I'm going to re-use the head gasket but I was wondering if I needed to do any prep to the gasket its self. There seems to be a "coating" that has come off (stuck to the head and block). so does the gasket need to be sanded and then re-coated? I guess I'm asking what sort of "prep" is required for re-using an HKS 2mm Steel head gasket? Thanks guys! Matt-

Thanks for all the posts! I went with the copper solution because that was the first one that was posted and it seemed pretty easy. I picked up 2 90 degree elbows and a 1 ft section of 1/2 inch copper tubing. then I just soldered the 90's together and, problem solved. I think I put almost 16 gallons into the tank with no problem. The first time I tried this about 7 years ago I kinked the large vent hose while putting the gas tank up into the car. I could never get more than 9 gallons into the thing. Today was the first time I've ever seen my gas gauge at full! If there is one thing I can count on is that the members here will have an answer for me! Thanks again guys! Matt-

I tried the big loop thing and that didn't work for me. I'll be doing the copper 180 tomorrow. I'll keep this thread updated with the out come. Thanks for the help guys. Matt-

Hi there! I've been having the worst time trying to find a replacement for the stock gas tank hose. I have a 72 240 and the rear vent hose (thats the big one closest to the bumper) is driving me crazy! I don't want to pay the 80 bucks for a NOS one but I'm starting to think I don't have a choice. I've tried all kids of different ways of running a 5/8ths fuel line and it always kink. The original hose is formed with a 180 degree turn (i think) and if you try that with a straight hose it just kinks on you. I've tried running lots of extra hose to see if I could make a big enough loop and that didn't work. I'm at the end of the line here. Unless someone has found a way to deal with the 240z gas tank hose problems then I guess I'll be buying a NOS hose from motorsport. HELP! Matt-

Paul has spoken... And we all have learned. Thanks Paul! Matt-

So my gas tank was leaking from the the old fuel lines... I pulled the tank and now I need to replace the old rotted cracked lines. I have the MSA catalog and the fuel lines would be over 150 bucks. Does anyone have ideas for replacement lines? I'm guessing they are that expensive because of the custom bends of the fuel lines. I need all of them. even the lines from the vapor tank to the gas tank. Thanks for any advice. Matt-