toolman

When I started restoring my 240Z, I checked the Net for new ideas and procedures. I noticed a large number of restorers were not using Weld Thur Primer when when replacing new panels or repairing old ones. Weld thur primer is must on areas to be welded. It goes a long way to prevent future corrosion on that area. This because the heat from welding eliminates any paint or regular primer that was there previously. Rust proofing the area helps a little but in most cases can get into those confined areas. So corrosion can occur in only months after welding. Check out- So buy Weld Thur Primer (NAPA has it) and spray all sides of any weld( inside and outside) with it. It will give additional peace of mind. welded area before welded area primed

Found additional rust in front left side rocket panel. So I constructed additional bracing for the engine compartment. The bracing of 1" x 1" steel square tubing connects the firewall with the two strut towers. The bracing is necessary if corrosion is found in the engine compartment frame rails. Sunny rocker panel rust firewall bracing firewall bracing floor pan cutout

Shipping stuff here is a killer!! Replacement floor set (both sides) without the rail upgrade shipped here by Post was over $400. I still plan to do only one side floor panel at a time even with the body brace. You never know if you might need some additional measurements. Can't get it if you cut up both sides. My old transmission mount was removed when I first put Chevy 327 with Turbo 400 about 1974 or so. I do plan to connect the front frame rails to the rear ones. I will beef up the front side of the rear frame rails as I was thinking about putting a whole independent suspension and narrow it. But for now, I'll leave the R200 differential in. Also. I plan to upgrade the front frame rails for the LS3 motor. Sunny

Orginially I was thought I could get away with repairing the frame rails. But after cutting open the frame rails, corrosion made them unrepairable. So rail replacement was necessary. After checking out the replacement floor pans and frame rails available, I decided to construct my own. Normally one can get away without bracing the body to do the replacement. But I found some corrosion on the front of driver side rocket panel. Could not determine how strong the rockers were without cutting them open. I constructed body bracing inside the car just above the floor pan. The bracing was mounted to the two lower door hinges mounts. The outer seat belt mounts were used for the other side of the body brace. 1" square steel tubing was used in a crossing pattern to provide support for the floor pan. I want to make it bolted in instead of just welding it .Construction took about two days with all the fitting that necessary. floor panel corossion pics of removed rusted areas lower door hinge mount top view of the body bracing above the floor pan close up view of door hinge mount picture of repaired crack in rear transmission tunnel frame rail rust

I forgot to mention that for safety reasons- a pair of rubber wheel chocks are placed under the curved wooden section( on each side) of the rotisserie. Never hurts to be safe. Sunny

Not to worry, I used to be a bodyman before and am familiar with splicing vehicles. As to the question about how much to tear down the car, it depends what you are trying to fix. The lighter that you can make the vehicle, the easier it will be rotate over. Also keep the center of gravity low as possible makes rotating easier too.