jbehuniak

see if you cant get some counter sink rivets for it, it will make it look tons cleaner! atleast for the top where the screws are, pretty easy to install, looks like youll need a size 6-2 or 8-2 because the screws are so large. But just buck em in and then have the front part removable so you can still work on what ever is on the inside.

I looked around in the 'talk the talk' thread and the R200 install but nothing I saw about anything with 5bolt... I did get off my lazy ... and looked around on ebay and saw somebody selling 5bolt outputs from a N/A Z32... just was a little flustered about seeing most installs with 6bolts and never saw a 5bolt; everything is okay now. Thanks for the input!

I work on blackhawk airframes for the army and the biggest thing I've noticed is when we get a crack, fix and strengthen it, a crack starts somewhere else. Notably the helicopter is subject to thousands of vibrations and has a brittle aluminum frame. The point I'm getting at is if you fix the crack and then put the new rails on and floors in, what are the chances of that part being too strong and weakening possible cracking, bending or twisting another part of the car especially with the added TQ of a V8. Ya the helicopter has 2 1700ish hp engines and weigh around 18000lbs but it was once designed for that back in the 70's. Todays aircraft we are finding out the mod's they did 10 years ago are screwing different parts and the fixes we are doing today we are looking for the effect tomorrow. like everybody on here likes to say just my $.02 good luck with it and youve come this far already, make it good!

dang damn and hell ya

those are rewinds, I have the gray rewinds on my Z.. They're pretty light. Just make sure when the tires are getting mounted you bring it to a good place, the place I brought em to scraped some of the clear coat off and then said there was nothing they can do about it. Even went to the district manager and everything, but still got nothing out of them...

great not 510 prices are going so skyrocket

what are your goals? and do you really want to drive an automatic Z?

go for the header!!!!!! MSA has pretty decent prices. I got the MSA header for my 76 2+2 and love it!!!! My exhaust is the 6-2-1 with the 2.5" outlet to a 2.5" dump pipe with an electric cutout, then the twice pipes system. It sounds great with the dump closed and when its open it is just good ol fun. I went with the header because I had to change my intake/exhaust manifold gasket so I already had everything apart. The other reasons is it has better flow rate and my theory is that it is going to let heat get out of the head/block easier and not store it in a 25lb manifold. The new header is about 10lb so you're saving weight and adding life to your engine in my opinion.

where did you get the speedo from?

On the distributor is a ignition module, disconnect the battery and pull it off, I think its a 8mm socket that has a really thin wall. Make sure there's no corrosion on the plug and it grounds itself on the distributor so clean both surfaces. I had the same problem with my 5.8 F250, it was stupid. Hopefully that helps. I also had some grounds that had corrosion so cleaned those up. You might not get alot of replies sense this is a Z forum but good luck with the truck

I bought this diff a while back and am ready to get everything needed for the swap. Planning on going with the techno toy set up... but I am deployed over seas and finally got pictures of the SN# and of the diff itself. COME TO FIND OUT I have a diff with a 5 bolt output instead of the 6 bolt output. What diff do I have and are there parts to put it into my 280Z? Thanks!

any progress?

before I changed the bumpers and did the rest of the work. I'll update the pic when I get home from Kuwait in a few weeks

Pretty much plug'n play but why not replace the old rubber lines while you're there?

Do you have a stock pump? Also you can always bring your hose down to the local parts store and ask for a generic Fram fuel filter that will fit. You don't have to worry about PSI because your not creating any yet. Also it might be a good time to replace the hose and flush your gas tank while you have it apart, never know when the next time you'll be under there.

Memorial Day 2010 over in Kuwait. I started thinking of my Z back home and came across this post. Its took about 3 1/2 hours to read, watch the videos and see the other links. This car is truly an accomplishment. You have hit my American dream- which is having a passion and getting it done- but as for car guys no matter how far the car gets, it will never be done. Tons of inspiration and ideas from reading this post. Thank you for taking the time to post everything online. Now I just can't wait to get home and drive my baby.

Its not too hard for the average person. You gotta get it up on jacks and remove the effected tire. Then get creative with a 9/16 wrench if my memory is correct. Grind it down on the box end so it fits on the wheel side of your axle. Remove the four nuts and do the same on the differential side. A socked extension and universal joint socket should do the trick. Also mark the location according to the input and output flanges so you can put it correctly back together, Once you got both pieces out, it helps if you have a large C-clamp or bench vice and some larger sockets. I can't remember if there are C-clips on the u-joint caps (that's the part that fell off exposing the shiny part of your u joint, so somebody please add to that.) From there you press out one cap at a time by getting a larger socket on one side, large enough that the cap can fit into it, and then a socket that will fit into the opposite side. Start clamping down and you should press it out half way. Then the u-joint will be able to be manipulated out Most parts stores also sell/ rent a tool for this. Also buy a new u-joint, that's necessary. Installation is the reverse of this procedure. Make sure that the mating sides of your axle are nice and clean, and clean and paint what ever you can while you're under there if you have the time. Maby somebody here has the FSM handy to get the exact torques, but 1/6 - 1/3 past sharp rise in torque should do the trick. Don't forget to put anti seize any parts that have threads, it makes the job 100X easier the next go around. It would be a good thing to inspect the other side and replace if it shows any sign of wear. It should take about an afternoon, some knuckle blood and frustration. Did I miss anything? Have fun, sorry about the mishap but its all part of being a car guy.

Hey, Just wanted to say thanks for the prompt and useful responses! I'm talking with the guys from MM about their set up. When I get back from the tour this summer I'll be sure to take many pic's and keep a detailed log to post so the next Joe to do this has it easier. Thanks agian! - SPC Behuniak

You're right, there are no 5 bolt outputs. Sorry for that confusion, I'm in the Army deployed over seas and haven't been able to physically see any of the R200 swap components. I'm trying to get everything I need so when I finally get home the install can be as painless as possible. I think I've got most of the info I need: Get a R200 Get 4 Q45 half shafts, disassemble and use the four plunger ends from the Diff side and buy the MM flanges (thanks BOOSTDZ) Get the mustache bar and front mount, from AZC or MM and then for the input flange it seems like it can be a hit or a miss getting the drive shaft to bolt up. My second to last question is What year Q45 CV's do I need to get? I'm assuming the same gen from the years I got the R200 from, but just want to be sure. My last question is, How sweet is it to have a beefy diff with LSD in your Z?

Before I write my questions, I have searched for about a week trying to get anywhere on my diff swap, and have got nowhere. Most of the post's I have read have out dated links that give me an error. So, to my question: Putting a R200 VLSD from a 94 300ZX non- turbo into a 76 280Z -I get that the mustache bar won't work with the finned diff cover. I've looked into AZC and ModMotosports and with the MM conversions I'm getting confused, it feels like I missed a step when looking into their parts. Where I'm lost is how does the 5 bolt output flange from the diff work up to the 4 bolt axle flange. I read about swapping to the CV's from a S130 or 1st gen 30zx. I want to hear from somebody who has done this swap and hopefully get a detailed reply of the steps that they had to go through. Right now I'm deployed over seas and am trying to get everything ready so I can put the better diffy into my baby and go take her for a few road trips before the fall hits when I get home. Hopefully if there is good replies we can make this into a stickey or pin it for others. Thanks in advance, Jon Behuniak