Rob240z

I'm running 16x8 Rota RBR with 225/50/16. They are +10 offset with 8mm wheel spacers on all for 4. I had to trim the lip on the rear about 1/4 inch. The inside of the rears have about 1/8-3/16" clearance from tire to spring. On the front I had to trim just the lower front portion of the wheel well so it wouldn't hit while turning. I have the stock front valance with a BRE spook. If you were running an air dam like the MSA type I the front wouldn't need trimming. If the rims were available in +04 offset when I bought them that would have been my choice because you wouldn't need spacers. I'm running BFG KDW2's. All tires are a little different in dimension even if the are the same exact advertised size. It's less about what size rim fits, and more about the tires size when it's mounted on a particular rim. I don't like it myself, but a undersized tire stretched to fit an 8" wide rim could easily fit without any trimming. My suspension is Eibach lowering springs on KYB struts. It sits about 1 1/2" lower than stock. I had to cut 1 coil from the progressive front springs to remove the nose up look. The top 4 coils were completely compressed when sitting still so it didn't have any effect on the effective spring rate. Rob

I have one in good condition. It still has the throttle body, fuel injectors, heat shield, etc. It is in original condition, not shaved or ported. I was going to use it on my build, but ended up buying a custom fabricated aluminum intake instead. I don't need this one anymore. I can take some pictures tomorrow if your interested. What are you looking to spend? Thanks, Rob

I found one from someone on here. That was fast! Thanks, Rob

This is the last part I need to swap a r200 in my Z. If anyone has one let me know. Thanks, Rob

Hi Tony, Do you happen to have any other pictures of this setup? I'm trying to see how the supercharger is mounted and how the belt is routed. In your picture I can see a serpentine belt and possibly a tensioner or idler pulley, but the picture is hard to see. Do you have a higher resolution version of this picture you would share? I'm curious what the solution to the water pump pulley was. Thanks, Rob

I've never seen that one before Tony. Thanks! I'm building a centrifugally supercharged L-engine now and I've done lots of research. There isn't much out there. Xnke build is the best I have seen by far for documenting any supercharger build. Thanks Xnke! I'm mounting my supercharger in the same location as the one in your picture Tony. I have only seen one other L-engine with a centrifugal supercharger. It mounted it where the air pump is stock. It was a race car for sale on this forum in December 2010. It was carbureted too. Members name is teamz. Here is the link: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/96891-73-240z-track-car-supercahrged-g-force-t5/ Quoted from his for sale ad. Looks like a sweet car. I wonder where the car is now and if it ever sold?

I finally found one. Someone on here contacted me because of this ad. They had one that had never been run before (just trial fitted) that has a little rust and some of the chrome peeling. I scrubbed it with some oxalic acid to remove the rust and polished it with mothers. I think it came out really good. I had bought the pacesetter header off ebay, but the build quality of this is so much better. The pace setter ports had welds that were very inconsistent and very large. The welds made the ports significantly smaller than the inside pipe diameter. When I made a port template of my rebello ported p90, the Nissan Motorsport header matched the ports almost perfectly. The header ports are just slightly larger than the head, which is perfect in my mind. I'm very happy with this header. Now Just need to get it fitted when the motor goes in then it's off to Swain Tech for their white lightning coating. This header was really hard to find so I want to make sure it lasts as long as possible.

How often would you say a supercharger eats a belt? I was thinking I might have some belt slippage to deal with. I didn't consider that I would be going through belts very often. If that is something that happens frequently maybe keeping the supercharger on a seperate belt would be the smarter thing to do. BHJ makes a v-groove pulley that bolts to the front of the crank pulley. I could use that to spin the water pump and alternator. I was hoping to use it to spin an AC compressor if I decided to install AC at some point in the future though. What do you think of MSA electronic water pump?

I was worried the 3 row radiators looked to deep too when I was looking. This is the one I just bought last week. It is a 2 row with fans. I read here on hybrid that Champion radiators are good. The Champion 3 rows are rated at a much higher horsepower according to this ebay seller though. http://www.ebay.com/itm/190751782300?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I didn't realize you were using a manual tensioner. I couldn't see the back of it and thought you were maybe using some kind of spring or something else to make it into an automatic tensioner assembly. Yes about alternator being high. My drawing was very rough. The crank and water pump pulleys are drawn much farther apart than in reality too. I think a good wrap can be achieved by placing a idler pulley in between and to the left of the crank and water pump pulleys as long as the top of the idler pulley is above the bottom of the water pump pulley and the bottom is below the top of the crank pulley. The size of the idler can be increased to get more wrap. I'll explain my thought process even if it's flawed as to why I decided to go with an 8 rib serpentine conversion on my engine build: The supercharger comes with and uses an 8 rib pulley. I have always planned to use an automatic tensioner as every other centrifugal install I've seen incorporates one into the supercharger bracket and I just assumed there was a good reason every serpentine belt system I've seen does. I was planning on upgrading my original 240 alternator to one with more amps so I figured why not just get one that has an 8 rib pulley on it anyway. My work van has a 100 amp alternator with an 8 rib pulley that seems like it would work fine. Since I already have to make a supercharger bracket, I figured why not make it to hold the alternator too. That way I can position it where I like. I wanted to run a quality damper and was looking on BHJ website and noticed they make an 8 rib damper that lines up exactly where the original crank pulley does. So I bought it. The only thing left is the water pump pulley conversion which shouldn't be to hard. Originally I was going to buy the electric water pump from MSA, but I have been seeing conflicting reviews about it and have decided not to take the risk. It seemed like converting everything to 8 rib serpentine was the right choice. But after seeing your setup, it probably would have been easier to add an 8 rib pulley to the end of the crank pulley and run the supercharger on a separate belt system. Making the supercharger bracket would have been easier. But I have already purchased the the BHJ damper, and it wasn't cheap, so I think I should continue as planned. The other benefit is the clearance to the radiator and electric fans isn't a problem with this setup. I am a little worried though that the high tension from the serpentine system will be to much for the water pump shaft. Do you think the water pump can handle it? This is a picture of the BHJ damper I bought if you haven't seen it before. http://www.bhjdynamics.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10&products_id=238

I just read through your intake manifold thread too. You are a very good and resourceful fabricator. Was that a fire extinguisher you used for the plenum? I just bought a custom intake that was very similar to what I wanted. If I had your welding talents I would have tried to make one too. It's pretty cool someone else is doing a very similar build at the same time. Different types of superchargers, but a lot of similarities. I think yours will be more torque oriented and my will build power at the higher rpms. This is the spreadsheet I used to figure out what blower and pulley sizes I needed. I'm pretty sure this would work for yours too, just some of the variable values are different. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AsePDCmbU5HudGhDSG5HYUtBbk5CVUtkNTl3RTdmc2c

This is a very rough sketch looking at the front of the engine. My plan was to make a plate style bracket that holds the supercharger, alternator, tensioner, and extra wheel all in line with each other.

Hi Xnke, I'm following this thread with great interest. What you've done so far looks great and has given me some ideas on my current build. I'm currently trying to figure out how I'm going to run a serpentine belt on my setup. After seeing how you have set up your pulley/tensioner I think I'm going to route mine similar to you. I've never seen a sliding tensioner like your doing. How does it work? All the tensioners I've seen swing in an arch. My build is a little different, but there is a lot of similarities. The biggest difference is I'm using a rotrex c81 supercharger, but locating it in almost the same position you are. I bought a BHJ damper that has an 8-rib pulley attached to it instead of the v-belt pulley. I'm using an 8-rib alternator so I can line all the assessories up. I think this will give me a little space to the radiator and fans. On your posts about estimating the horsepower your set up will make, my best guess is that you are being conservative. Corky Bell wrote a great book called "Supercharged! Design, Testing and Installation of Supercharger Systems". When I was planning my supercharger build I created a spreadsheet that used all the relavent equations from his book. I followed his workflow on designing my supercharger system in how it was applicable to what I was trying to achieve. There's a lot of good advice in his book, especially on avoiding detonation, which was my biggest concern. I'm not expecting my actual power numbers to come out exactly as calculated, but it at least was something to use that wasn't a blind guess and should get me in the ballpark. If you want the spreadsheet to play around with I'd be glad to send it to you. Keep up the excellent work. I'm looking forward to watching this build and seeing the final outcome too. Rob

Ok John. I really did appreciate your help though. You were willing to take the time to help me out for nothing and would have definetly earned my business for doing that. Thanks again. Rob

Thanks for the help Zippy. I probably should have just called Stahl directly as I was reading some conflicting information online. John, we spoke about this on the phone the other night. Does that mean you will be selling Stahl headers again? Also, thanks for taking your time answering all my questions and just giving me some experienced advice. I really appreciate it. I was starting to get used to the idea that I would just get a MSA header until I could find Nissan Motorsports or a Stahl header. But now I think I will probably just go with the Stahl if this is indeed true. Thanks, Rob

Hi Everyone, I only need a few more parts to finish my supercharged L30 build. One that has been difficult to find is a L28 square port header with 1 3/4" primaries. I really would like the Nissan Motorsports competition headers, but haven't been able to find one. nismoparts.com lists it for sale, but I've tried to email them a few times over the last couple of months to see if it's available with no response. Has anyone else bought these headers from them recently? Or maybe from somewhere else? I have also considered Stahl headers, but from a thread on this forum it sounds like he is not making them anymore. I read he might still sell a kit, but I don't have the welding skills to put them together even if I could get a kit. I guess I'm just hoping someone on here has a set they don't need or could at least send me in the right direction. I'm not looking for a deal, just some help. Thanks a lot, Rob

I'm looking for a good condition set of 280zx turbo companion flanges. This is the last item I need to convert my car to cv axles. I'm from Rhode Island and I don't mind paying to ship them as most of the parts I've bought for this project have come from the west coast or the south. Thanks, Rob

For everyone that PM me and made offers, thank you! I wasn't sure what to go with. I was going to ship whatever head I received to rebello racing for the head work. I called Dave at Rebello and he had a good core P90 head that would be perfect for what I'm trying to accomplish so I bought it from him. I also bought the forged pistons I was looking for from him as well as almost every other part I need for my engine build. I have heard great things about Dave Rebello and after a couple long conversations with him I feel very comfortable buying from him and listening to his advise. These parts will be going into a Rotrex (recently acquired) supercharged L28 engine build for my 71 240 that I have finally started after lots of research on here and saving up for a long time. I will be starting a build thread on here soon too to keep anyone here that is interested informed and hopefully get some great feedback. I have learned so much from this website that I feel like it is finally time for me to participate and give back. Thanks, Rob

Hi, I'm looking for a P90 Head in good condition. Rebuildable is fine, I just don't want one with cracks. One that is already rebuilt well is preferred. I'm willing to pay for quality parts. Since I've been looking I've only seen one P90 for sale on here that is cracked, and 2 on Ebay that I'm hesitant to buy because of negative statements about the sellers on this community. Ideally it would be complete with valves, rockers, camshaft, etc. Also, I doubt anyone wants to get rid of a set of L28 forged dished pistons, but I need to buy them and It's worth a shot to ask here 1st before I order a set. I want to buy these items, but if someone wants to trade for something I have a complete N42 Head, an extra R200 diff, 14x6 slotted mags on old Toyo's, rear window louver, original 240z sterring wheel (has a few scratches). PM or email is rob at blackpointbuilders dot com If you prefer to talk by phone I'll respond to your message with my number or leave a message with yours and I'll call you. Thanks, Rob