stav2201

I'll take a look at it again when I get home.

I know that's what is so weird about it!?! I even swapped the diode between the top terminal and bottom and still had the same issue.

I'm looking to buy a set of bump steer spacers for 15 inch rims or higher, I'm also looking for 240z bumpers, preferably fiber glass. Feel free to email me at alexstav2210@live.com if interested in selling.

Sorry ahead of time for any grammical errors or bad sentence structure, I had to type this up on my cellphone.

I have a 1975 280z, running stock efi. I recently upgraded to the 280zx alternator and installed the diode in between the correct plug (I'm 100% the diode is installed correctly, this is the 2and time I've done this mod). On my fuse box I have to take out at 10 amp fuse for my fuel gauge calibrator since my car will not shut off if it is installed. When the calibrator fuse is removed my car shuts off fine but I have to rev the engine past 3000 rpms in order for my tach, fuel gauge, and voltage meter to work. I've tried going through the fsm trying to trace what the issue may be, I'm thinking it may be a bad relay that is underneath the passanger seat? My dash clock is also removed, but this issue occurred before I removed my clock. I've also swapped out ignition switches which didn't help either. Has anyone else had a similiar issue or know what may be the problem? Thanks..

it turns out my cam was not matched up to my crank, it was off by one tooth which explains why my timing was about 30 degrees advanced! My brother and i fixed the issue and now the engine is running much nicer, its quite, throttle response needs so work but he ran over my syncrometer and now i have to get a new one. Ill post back in here once i get it all set up nice.

i also just did a leak down test and my block is in Excellent condition, all cylinders had between 3-5% leakage

I got the car running now and my air fuel ratio is as best as i can get it with my knowledge of carbs and reading the wide band. Im just running into a timing issue since my powerband is absolute garbage. the car has Zero pull after 2500rpms and im afraid of detonation issues since my timing advances to the upper 30's underload or at high rpms. I am running the stock 280z distributor with vacuum advance plugged off. i did read a that you need to switch the distributor to mechanical by welding a bead in the distributor to stop it from advancing itself. i also tried retarding it 6 degrees but it just runs horrible and it nearly bogs out when trying to get out of neutral, but, i did notice a power increase. Ive been trying to find an in depth example on where to weld this bead in your distributor but everything is so vague, anyone have any advice on this or maybe an alternative that isnt mega jolt or some time of computer controlled spark.

I did look at the jet the controls the fuel flow with the floats, it was sticking when i was moving the float. It would get stuck open when the floats fall all the way down and then go back up. Maybe this is my issue, i could be flooding my carbs with this jet stuck open.

My Wideband isnt working right now, it idles and revs very nicely when i had the carbs synced (it was at 950 rpms to 1000) As soon as a put the car in reverse it would lurch, clunk out and die. The guy who sold me the jet setup said that he was running it on a L24, so i would assume that this setup should work decently. I think it maybe be a fuel issue like i said but i will be sure to check the throttle plates.

Ok i took apart one carb and here are the spec This is on a L28 block with an N42 head + stock cam Triple weber setup 40 dcoe 18 Chokes- 27mm Main Jet assembly: Air correction- 170 Emulsion tube- F11 Main Jet- 125 Idle jet- 45 f9 Pump jet- 40 Float- 225 I want to measure my floats but i dont know what the standard spec for a 280z should be, online it says 12mm? Since my car is also dying under load, Im wondering if my pump jet is to small, or if it just my floats being out of spec.

I had it running decent for a little but then realized all my valves were horribly out of spec. Now that they are within spec (8 on intake 10 on exhaust) the car dies as soon as i put any load under the engine, it idles perfectly and i had them set very nicely at idle. When i put it in reverse to take it for a spin it dies as soon as i let out the clutch. I feel as if it is a fuel delivery issue, maybe my floats are out of spec or my accelerator pump may be wrong, (I believe it said 40 on it).

I recently bought a 1975 280z with triple webers and a cannon intake, My jet setup- 40mm carbs (x3) Air correction jet- 170 Emulsion chamber- F11 Main jet- 125 (Not sure what size chokes) I have the Fuel Psi set at 2 1/2 Im running Stock 280z coil with the stock ballistor. My timing is set at 12 Dbtdc i also have a wide band O2 set up and installed for tuning with a timing light as well. I have a general knowledge of how to tune these but its become a little more difficult than i thought, Are there any members with a good amount of knowledge on tuning these that would like to help me out this week? Im free tues ,wed, fri before 3:00 Pm, thurs and sat open all day. I would really appreciate any help because i need to get this car running.

Good news everyone, it turns out that my distributor was no good and the pickup was not working correctly. Im setting the timing to 12 degrees but i think i may have to tweak with the throttle linkage, its slightly bent and its making balancing the carbs extremely difficult. I should have the car running tomorrow. I do want to share a wonderful website i found from some help on this forum, it was extremely basic and very user friendly http://7faq.com/owbase/ow.asp?HowDoI%2FTuneWeberCarburettors

I got the engine fired up today, it seems like my timing was way off so after tweaking it for a little it started to run a little better. My brother and i were noticing a VERY aggressive knocking feel (not noise) from the block, im not sure if it is from a super rich mixture which im having right now igniting and blowing out from a half inch hole at the end of the after market headers where a O2 sensor goes. It also will not run unless the chokes are wide open which it still seems to be very rich, i guess i gotta mess around the screws a little.

"As far as dizzy, I just plugged vacuum advance and set timing for 32 degrees all in. No problems so far. The best option would be to go to a programmable ignition like EDIS with mega jolt, Mallory unilite (apparently there have been some quality issues lately), or MSD 6al. Or better yet, be our stateside guinea pig for 123ignition! Keep us posted!" Actually, the guy i bought it off of set it up for a mallory box, it has the mallory coil installed but he burnt out the Unit, which i have, i guess it just needs to be sent in an repaired? My engine is a 2.8 lter as well with an N42 head that is all stock.( He also threw in a wideband with the build) I would prefer to keep this build as simple as possible in hopes to speed up getting it running, then of course worry about doing aftermarket upgrades later.

I recently purchased a 1975 280z with a 40mm triple weber setup using a cannon intake, I Have done some light research on which build would suit my engine best and i feel, from what i have read, that for my jets i want to run 170 air correction jets, f11 emulsion chamber, 120 main jet and 30mm chokes. It just so happens that the webers that came on the engine have 170 air correction jets, f11 emulsion chamber, and 125 on the main jets (5 off what seemed ideal), I havent checked the choke yet, but im assuming it is either 30mm or 32mm. My question is regarding the distributor, im supposed to eliminate the vacuum advance and weld in a bead to stop the distributor from going past 32Btdc under load. Does anyone have a link to a very descriptive write up on how to correctly do this? Or does anyone have any advice on alternatives to for distributors with carb setups?

He did say somthing about swapping out the lash pads to thinner ones if i couldn't raise my rocker arms high enough, but he said using the spacers on the cam shaft journals should work fine.

I was told about a little trick you can do to the stock 280z Head to pump out a little extra horsepower. The person explained that you take a stock N-47 head and raise the valve train up .030 with these spacers called "head savers." Adjust the valve lash to the point where the lobes wipe will just barely hit the edge of the rocker arms. You then have to raise your fuel pressure up 3-4 psi, adjust the airflow meter 4 click back, and then advance the timing to 30 degrees if i remember correctly. its supposed to get you a reasonable ammount of extra power for not having to do any major overhauls to the engine. Can anyone shed any light on this or extra information, or what it is called?

Maybe the turbocharger itself was bolted together at the wrong angle. Which would just require your to lossen it and adjust its angle. Hopefully you didnt put the intake manifold on already. FYI, I always install the turbo and the oil return line as an assembly. This would avoid this problem in the future before you had the turbo installed.

Thanks for the feedback guys

My 1975 280z drivers side floor pan and seat brackets were pretty rusted so i cut them all out (this means there are no brackets on the drivers side to mount a seat). Ive been looking online for an aftermarket alternative but it just seems like they sell custom brackets to bolt onto your existing brackets for bucket seats and what not. Anyone know of any websites that may supply custom seat brackets for stock seats? Or perhaps someone here has made some, doesnt matter to me if they have to be welded or bolted on, either will work.

Thanks for the help! i was just afraid of having to pay some sort of non op fee or something.

I had a parts 280z parts car i bought from some guy, i live in california. He released the title in my name but i never registered it and actually threw away the title when i was taking apart the car. I recently had some guys who scrap metal come pick it up and they said it shouldn't be a problem. Anyone have any experience with situation like this in california, do i have to go to the DMV and do something or is the car just in a grey area where no one is responsible for it?

Forgot to mention, the car was turbo before using the 300zx ecu. I took it out and now im running stock 75 ecu, al of the turbo components have been removed except for the p90head and f54 block. All of the smog equipment has been removed all the vacuum lines have been properly blocked off as well. The exhaust I have on the car is the stock down pipe for a 75 but the rest is a little bigger, not sure if it makes that big of a difference though