stav2201

I have a 1975 280z with an f54 block and p90 head (was turbo but went back to 75 stock efi). Im running no smog equipment, so no charcoal canister, or Egr valve, Cold start is also disconnected since i live in california. When driving or at idle it misfires and while i am decelerating you can smell alot of gas, im assuming that it is running rich while is decelerate, Maybe injector stuck open? I checked my spark plugs and they are fine, changed my plug wires, cleaned off my rotor and distributor cap (they are worn slightly). All my valve clearances are within spec as well. Anyone ever suffer from issues slightly related to this? I dont think i have a burnt valve since i believe the head was rebuilt when i pulled it from the junkyard.

Here are some more updates Cut off some of those tie down bands for the wiring harness and put bondo over them, water blasted the engine bay after spraying a bunch of engine de-greaser in there as well. Here is the other side of the engine bay, planning in sanding it all down tomorrow and priming it if i have the time. Removed both fenders as well, broke all the studs off from headlight buckets that connect to the fenders and a few bolts broke off that connect to the engine bay, thank god i have that donor car so i can just use the front valance and headlight buckets from that. Seeing as how the donor shell has PERFECT floor pans i figured i would just cut out the other seat bracket, put in new metal, then use the brackets from the other car. Not sure though if i should just replace the entire floor pan or just use the seat brackets, would appreciate suggestions or any advice on this matter since my welding or fabricating skills are not the best,

Here are some updates on the progress of my car This is the drivers side floor pan right below the seat bracket. Removed all the rivets from the door bumpers and welded them up. Removed all marker lights and welded metal behind the fenders and covered them up with bondo. Covering up all the welds with bondo and smoothing them out Began work on my drivers side door since it was really messed up, taking alot of sanding to get perfect. Kind of upset right now because i just scored a 1976 280z for 300 as a parts car with perfect doors and running engine. Did two days of sanding for nothing haha, if anyone is interested in 2 1975 280z doors let me know, they both open fine but the regulators are slightly off. (doors are maybe a 7 out of 10 as far as operation and condition).

I just called safelite window repair and they said that they can -Supply a new windshield -Aftermarket weather stripping (that fits the chrome borders) -Install both for $300.00 I thought that was a pretty good deal but i am kind of afraid of the quality of the weather stripping, anyone know anything about this company and how good of a job they do or what kind of weather stripping they supply?

Im doing a full restore on my 1975' 280z and i need new weather stripping for the windshield, hatch, hatch seal, and quarter windows. Anyone have any experience with this website and their product? http://www.zcarsource.com/weatherstrip-set-door-windshield-hatch-glass-70-78-coupe-new_8_54961_197416.html From what i have read blackdragon offers good deals but their kits are not the best of quality. I dont want to pay an arm and a leg for weather stripping, but i dont want to get garbage. In your guys opinion, what is the best bang for your buck or which company's offer the best product. I would really appreciate the help.

After Recovering my old 75' 280z from a theft and me just being upset with the build i went, ive decided to get a new 280z and start over! My plan so far is to keep it stock for the most part.Im going to run stock Efi until i can figure out what type of engine build i want and going to swap over my coilovers from my old car onto this one. (If anyone wants to buy a silver 75' 280z with msa fender flares and Rota Rbr rims 17x9 let me know). I purchased the car from a Datsun guy in Sacramento, over all the car has no rust except for the drivers side floor panel. Here are some pics of what ive got done today. Heres what she looks like Sanded down all of the rust from the passenger side and sprayed it from getting any worse (It turned out the rust was not bad at all on the passenger side, just surface rust.) Rust was here but cut out This part is going to be difficult to fix, i have no idea how to weld but i do have a replacement floor panel for that specific area, any ideas on what i should do? The rust is sitting on top of the frame rails but never went through the frame rails, in fact the frame rails are in very good condition. Inside car Pretty clean engine bay

Bump, doesnt need to be running either.

Looking to buy a 77-78z, must be rust free and straight body. looking to pay no more than 1500, condition of suspension does not matter or interior. I want to swap over everything from my 75' 280z to a 77-78, then sell my shell.

I have 1975 280z suspension with ground control coil-overs that i may want to swap over to a 240z. If the strut tubes are longer doesnt that mean you should use the 240z strut boots to lower it that extra inch? It also seems like you guys are saying that the suspension will just bolt right up, i just want to be clear on that?

I have a 1975, 280z that im switching over to carbs, im picking up a set of 240z SU's for right now until i figure out if i want to do triple or double mikunis or webers (or just keep duel Su's). I have a p90 head i can use but the 240z engine im picking up has an E88 head (which i understand is great for carbs). I'm curious as to which head would be better for some decent power but mostly fuel economy and reliability. Also, if running duel carbs (mikunis, webers, or SU's) is better for Mpg than triples. Keep in mind that i dont really plan on modifying the engine too much, im using a 83 280zx distributor and have no plans on swapping cams out, after market manifold is a possibility in the future and coil on plug setup.

it seems like a f54 block with flat top pistons will work, i read that someone on here used a p90 head and a thinner head gasket to raise his compression ratio. I dont want to do an aftermarket cam so i can save money, but im worried that ill lose alot of power using the p90 instead of and n42 or n47. what would you recommend for decent power, reliability and lower chances of detonation?

Ive thought about it alot, i have mega squirt laying around in the garage but i dont have the time or patience for that. Every problem i have with my build so far is electrical. Im not concerned with putting down alot of power i would rather have the least amount of electrical possible. Im going for something very very dependable since i have to commute with my car as well. (Yes i know mega squirt is dependable and gas mileage/power is awesome, i just feel that it will take too long to tune and i will run into way more problems in the long run than i will with carbs), But that is just my opinion....

Ive decided to step away from my 83 turbo swap on my 1975 280z and move to carbs. Ive done some research on what Milimeter carbs to get and it seems for my needs 40mm would be the best choice. (I would like a decent power build that is also very reliable and somewhat gas efficient). I have my p90 head that is rebuilt that i would like to use but im afraid the lower compression would kill some power, or maybe i can switch to a L28 block with non dished pistons and a thinner head gasket? Im having a hard time trying to find a thread with a very thorough build information regarding this, could anyone direct me to a link?

You never made mention if you checked and verified your ignition timing. Alot of people run into this problem by putting their oilpump shaft in 180degrees backwards.

It seems my issue is bigger than i thought. My battery is no longer getting charged when running the engine, i swapped over to a 60amp self regulated alternator and removed the external regulator. When the car is idling im putting out 16 volts from the alternator and not getting any power to the battery(Ive replaced the alternator 2 times so far as well). Seeing as how my entire wire harness is cut and spliced from the previous owner i want to replace it all, im wondering if you can use a 1978 280z dashboard wire harness and charging system harness on a 75?

I tore out the entire harness under the dash and only found one of the Wht/Red cables on the C5 coupler slightly damages at the pin. This is the wht/red wire that connects straight to the ignition switch, not sure if thats enough to blow fuses though since the only thing it would be in contact with is the plastic from the connector

So what your suggesting is its one of the red/wht wires in between the ignition switch, im not sure how to narrow it down to a specific area if that is what you mean. I was going to tear out the entire wire harness and unwrap it to see what i could find personally.

I upgraded the alternator 1 year ago when i was running NA. Ive recently upgraded to a turbo set up from an 85 300zx ecu. The black 80 amp fuse was the first to go out 1-2 weeks ago in which case i replaced the alternator. It worked fine for a week,but a week later i noticed it was sputtering a little while holding a constant idle and under load the engine would lose power completely for a second and then run normal again. I opened the shunt and replaced the 2amp fuse since it was out, my guess is a small Wht/red wire that connects the ignition switch is grounded under the dash. It is a 16 gauge wire that connects to the c-5 green coupler under the passenger side. It blows my 40 amp fusible link every time i turn the key to the ACC spot.

Nope, this is a picture i got from online for reference. I'm wondering if anyone knows if these even go out.

forgot to mention that im using a 280zx alternator now

Im blowing the fusible links on my 1975 280z that run from the ignition switch to the starter motor, This means that an electrical device called a "Shunt" is in between it. I have replaced my battery, alternator, and starter and all my fuses still go out. Im wondering if this Shunt could be the issue. If so, are there any ways to bypass this device or will i have to replace it. Here is a picture of the electrical device im talking about