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stav2201

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Everything posted by stav2201

  1. Well i figured out my issue, i had to install a diode on the new alternator plug, shuts off every time now.
  2. well i decided to put everything back together and see what happens when i beat the crap out of the engine. I drove it around for 20 minutes cruising at about 4k rpms, still burning oil and smoking; i don't think it got any better. Ill try putting some thicker oil in it tomorrow and maybe it will make a difference. Is there a specific process i should follow while trying to beat the crap out of my engine?
  3. I thought about doing that but i would of gotten pulled over by the police in my town and got a ticket if i did that. PLus, when i got the engine the guy put the timing chain on incorrectly. I figured if your gonna spend all this money rebuilding engine and put the timing chain on incorrectly whats going to stop this guy from putting oil rings or bearings on incorrectly.
  4. Finished adjusting the valves and got it running. Still burning the same amount of oil as before, my guess is the idiot who built the engine before i got it out of the junkyard put the oil rings on incorrectly.
  5. Correct ammount of oil Correct dipstick Manual transmission Im pretty sure its the valve seals, i just replaced them all today so hopefully i can finish adjusting the valves and have it running tomorrow. If it still smokes i guess my oil rings on the pistons are busted or my valve guides are worn (but they seemed fine when i was changing the valve seals).
  6. Im brothers with the OP, it seems as though the valve seals are worn. Perhaps from lack of lubrication from sitting so long and eventually drying? I am replacing them but im concerned with the valve guides while i have the head disassembled, any ideas on how much play there should be with the valves if any at all?
  7. Still looking for the fender flare, edit: i need the right side flare not the left
  8. Im running the MSA flares and love the look. Its just hard to figure where you want them situated and how much of the metal to cut out.
  9. I need 1 front left fender flare for my car, no drill holes please. Finally got my car painted and the front fender broke in half and im in need of just one flare, I do not want all 4 just to be clear. Thank you.
  10. It isnt the ignition switch, im not to worried about fixing that problem because as soon as i get my car back from being painted im gonna do a 83 turbo swap.
  11. I did a coil over conversion and have the car as low as i can get it, so the frame rails are about 4 inches above the ground.
  12. I have a 1975 280z, which i have to stall to turn off because it will not shut down from the ignition switch. I have replaced the drivers side half shaft once already because the U joints became loose and started to Squeak really bad. The new one i put in is already starting to make some noise and it has only been a couple weeks since i replaced it. My question is if stalling my car can ruin my half shafts pre-maturely because of the stress placed on them when i stall the engine.
  13. I have 2 perfect condition brown leather door skins for my 75-76 280z that i would like to trade for 2 black ones. Id dont really want to ruin them by dyeing them black, would just rather trade them to someone who needs them. Im located in the Danville CA, please send me a tell if interested
  14. My drivers side half shaft bushing went out on the U joint and i need to replace it. I figure it is cheaper just to replace the entire thing than the bushing. From what i have researched, 240 half shafts should fit, but, they are thinner and not as strong as the 280 half shafts. I do plan on going with an 83' 280zx turbo swap (Running 280zx Ecu). Im afraid that the 240 shafts may not be strong enough for the power im putting out, so, will the 280zx half shafts fit or do they require custom fitting? thank you for the help
  15. This is the lip above the door weather stripping that the other striping sits on, it is identical on the other side, Take both of those strips. They are about 5 ft long This is the chrysler so everyone has an idea of what it looks like How the stripping looks in the hatch Top corner of hatch Example of a piece of the weather stripping Hope this helps out fellas, the pick n pulls in the bay area charge about 5$ for 1 piece, so it will run you 10$ for entire hatch. Pretty good deal if you ask me
  16. So reading on other several threads pertaining to weather stripping i decided to take it upon myself to find alternative means of good stripping! My brother has a 1996 crysler cirrus sitting in the driveway since its messed up. I took the weather stripping from it that is above the doors in hopes that it may fit the hatch (because the universal weather strip kit from pepboys costs 30$ a pack). Turns out that it fits perfectly! you will need both strips from each side of the car and it will be plenty to fit in the hatch (the body to rear hatch weather stripping). Last time i checked there were PLENTY of these cars in the junkyard. The stripping fits very snug and may seem a little difficult to fit in, but it works fine. The hatch will just require a little pressing to get down. Ill post some pics to make more sense of what im saying.
  17. Very informative, i believe this is the issue im having with my car. Could there be any other solution to this problem, maybe placing a towel in the read quarter panels or something?
  18. Sweet, thanks for the advice and visual. I just need to figure out how much more fender to cut off and how low i can place the flares since im going with th 17x9 Rota RbR's in the front. The rears prove to be a little more difficult, im just not sure how low i can place the flares before they start rubbing against the tires in the rear. Any advice fellas?
  19. Lol, your lucky you even got a response to this inquire. But yes, its true, you have to drop the gas tank in order to remove it.
  20. Im in the process of installing fender flares as well. I noticed that you mounted the rear ones with the fatter end of the flare pointing twords the doors, i thought they were supposed to go the other way? Also, do you have any advice on how much clearance you should have for the flares so they are not rubbing against the tires when tracking it? Also, love the blue paint, very good choice.
  21. I contacted the customer support for MSA and they informed me that, yes, the left front flare is supposed to be shaped like that due to the mold getting old and warped over the years. They claim that you can bend it and move it around and it will fit fine, just requires some adjusting... Didnt make much sense to me why they have been selling a partially broken item for the past 6 years regardless the fact that they get complaints every time they sell them (which the guy explained to me). Im also installing the 240 front air dam (ducted) on my 280z with 17x9 rota RbRs, ive cut out the wheel wells but the front air dam does not sit flush and rubs against the tires. Anyone have any advice on where i should cut the air dam or if i can heat it up and bend it in some way? Thanks for the help.
  22. Do you think i should attempt to call them or write a letter complaining and asking for a better one? or would that just be a waste of time.
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