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I really like the look of your wheels and am thinking about ordering some. Can you confirm that they are 17 by 9.5 with 5in backspacing. Spacers or no spacers? Do they fit without coilovers, and lastly what size tires are you running? Thanks

I really like the look of the wheels in the pictures above with the black center so I called centerline today and was quoted $385 per wheel for the Thrusters in 17 by 9.5. That is rediculous. Jegs has them listed at $269.99 but I will have to check and see if they can get me the right bolt pattern at that price. Does anybody have any hookups on centerline wheels?

The a/c compressor will hit the frame rail in the stock position on the F-body LT1. The Corvette motors have it mounted high on the driver's side of the motor like the alternator is on the passenger side. The a/c delete bracket also hits the frame rail. You will have to make a custom pully bracket that clears the frame rail.

It looks like the offspring of a Lotus Elise and a NSX.

First let me say good job. It looks like you are learning quickly. I may be looking at them wrong but it seems that your weld is below the face of the material on some of the first pictures. This introduces a stress riser to the material. It is best if the weld is even with the material but its ok if it is higher. I could tell you more with some horizontal pics.

The 7M motors are known for rod knock aswell.

Ok, I am now just as confused as before. There is a post labeled bat on the alternator and there is the plug on the bottom that has one wire comming off of it. What do I wire up to the post and what do I wire up to the plug? I thought it was 12v from the battery to the post on the alternator and a switched 12v ignition lead to the plug on the bottom. Is this right or how far off am I? Pictures or diagrams would be awesome.

Ok after reading about the LT1 Alternator over in the electrical forum I am getting a better idea of how it works. The post on the back of the alternator gets wired to the positive battery post and the small wire coming off of the connector on the bottom of the alternator gets a switched ignition positive feed. Is this correct?

Can someone please explain to me how to wire up the LT1 alternator to my 76 280z. I have the JTR manual but I am still not sure. Picture would be great too.

http://www.speedspecialty.com/store/view_product.php?product=lt1altbracketV2 The pictures on this website are not great but it looks like another possible option for running just an alternator. I can't tell from the picture if it will clear or not because the picture looks photochopped. What do yall think?

On that list it would have to be the IS300 for me. Sweet car, Awesome styling.

Can someone explain to me how you gutted the power steering pump to use it as a pulley only. Its on a 1997 F-body LT1.

That is insane! I wanna see videos asap.

Flame away if you like but I have searched for about an hour. Is anybody using the stock LT1 T56 slave cylinder on their LT1 conversion. I am a little tight on funds and it came with my motor and tranny. Same question on the Master Cylinder too, or I may have to bite the bullet and get the Tilton unit.

Are you using a plastic clutch alignment tool? If so the tool might have flexed out of alignment enough to cause a big headache. This has happened to me before.

thehelix112, what AR is your turbo?

If you are going with a manual transmission and are using the stock crankremember to check the crank to see if it is drilled for a pilot bearing. Alot of these engines were in automatic cars and were not drilled from the factory for a pilot bearing. My shop teacher built a 400 to go in his drag car and when he went to bolt the transmission to the engine he found out the crank was not drilled.

I am going to try to put the turbo flywheel and clutch on my car with a 76 4 speed tranny. Where can I get this collar?

Dont worry about the rivets. I worked at an engine shop for a while who supplied the engines for the Panoz Esperante American Lemans race cars. Every metal headgasket we installed got the rivets drilled out and each layer was copper sprayed. No rivets were reinstalled.

Go to http://www.megasquirt.info/ and look in the left hand side of the screen. Click on the Sensors and Wiring link and its the first picture that comes up. This is the diagram I used to wire mine.

My car has the n/a engine with turbo injectors and fuel rail, turbo oil pump, distributor, exhaust manifold and turbo. The car has a new fuel filter and fuel pump. The car idles fine and will rev up to 5000 no problem in neutral no matter if I roll into the throttle or punch it. Problem is when I go to move the car it studders and dies like it not getting enough fuel. Does that sound like a megasquirt issue or trash in the gas tank or something else? If it helps to know I am running Moby's fuel and spark tables.

Great idea. I tryed to load your setting with no success, but I will just load yours on my regular pc and then transfer the info to my laptop. How well do you think it will run with your mods compared to mine? Thanks so much for your help and for writing the install guide that let me to this in the first place.

Yesterday after a great deal of help from Jerry at DIYautotune my car car is running. I am running the msns-e that Jerry loads on his units, I think it the 024.... code. Does anybody have a base map I could load on this code, or some pictures of your setting that I could manually type into the bins. My car is a 76 n/a motor with the 83 turbo distributor, oil pump, sump, turbo, and turbo manifold.

I open megatune, and then I click on connection. Then I click test the connection. The laptop says failure to connect or cannot connect. I am almost positive the ms has power b/c i tied the ms power, ignition coil power and injector positive side to the same source and they both have power. I am at work right now so I can't actually go troubleshoot on the car. I am trying to gather as much info about my problem as possible so that when I get off work I car try to get the ms working.

I cannot get the laptop to connect the the ms. The power source for the ms is good. It is the ignition coil that is getting hot, sorry I was not clear on that.