naviathan
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Posts posted by naviathan
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Do some searching for info on the E31. It is a sought after head for the N/A L28 builders. It enables a high compression and I believe has a nice quench pattern. The valves may need to be increased, but a decent machine shop should be able to handle that with no problems.
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Here's a shot of it...I'm thinking of moving it to the middle blank out plate between the choke and defogger lights.
(Yes, I know my interior is filthy, it's not a priority...)
Dirty Z cars are driven too much to be worked on or cleaned often. Props for the dirt! LOL
BTW, I'd move the water bottle... Makes me nervous with all that wiring.
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Intersting thought from NET+, when your wireless connection drops to 11Mbs are your roommates or you heating anything up in the microwave?
Actual Exam Question:
Scenario: In an office building with both wired and wireless network connections. Around 12 o'clock every day the wireless users complain of network drop outs and slow downs while the wired users have no problems. What is happening?
Answer: The microwave is disrupting the signal. Move the wireless AP out of range of the microwave to improve connection quality.
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I dont have an iac valve. Should i just unplug the relay then? The buzzing (which is actually really loud) stops when its not in place.
Yeah I would do that.
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A good antivirus like Avast! or AVG would be a really good idea. They both have free for personal use versions that will keep you virus free. I prefer Avast!, but they're both good.
As for your network slow down problems, call your ISP (assuming you're the primary on the account) and ask them to monitor and block any P2P file sharing activities. Most ISPs do this randomly anyway (I know Time Warner does on business accounts), but waiting for them to catch it without prompting is going to take a while. Another thing that helps with bandwidth issues is reseting your cable modem every couple of weeks. Keeps your ISP info up to date and clears any data cache in the modem.
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I am also very tempted seeing as my dd just gave out....hm....
It is either this or a 240sx for $2k
Go for the 240SX. probably more reliable than a ZX that needs a new EFI harness. If it were me and I bought it, I would simply go with an MS-II and universal harness. Would be much easier to deal with.
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To alleviate some strain off my ignition switch I put a Ford external solenoid (basically a big relay) on my 81 and it's worked great. Definitely made starting easier and the Ford solenoid will kick over with voltage as low as 6-7V.
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If you're talking about the internal contacts that could be a good thing. So long as everything else lines up correctly and the WOT contact hits before you get full pedal travel it should work. The extra gap between the contacts could be good for economy. I've always been curious why Nissan made the Z TPS with such little travel between idle and WOT. Seems there's a sweet spot for cruising and anything under or over that is either idle or WOT. When my 77 was on the road I could feel when it hit that WOT switch because it would pull hard. It seemed that switch kicked in with just slight pressure off cruise position.
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Wow...It's a thing of beauty. If only I were a rich man.
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Yes the polarity does matter, especially if it's marked on the injector.
As for the 1k resistor, I can't answer that as I can't see any of the images in this thread to verify.
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I blew a hole in the rear of my 83 n/a 5 speed trans years ago. So in a pinch i swapped in a 4 speed I had that was in a 260. It was a direct bolt in. Hated the RPM's in 4th. I wasn't aware of any differences. Interesting.
The differences in the 4 and 5 speeds would be minimal. It's the difference in the standard 5 speed and the T5 5 speed.
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Turn the key all the way counter clockwise and the ignition will be completely off.
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Thanks a lot guys for the replies. I'll look into that gator belt too. I popped the hood and actually watched the belt slip at the crank. I'm now hearing from others that it could mean the pulley is bad? Haha, it's always something with this damn car...
dominic
Interestingly enough, if the belt is too tight it can cause some binding in the alternator shaft which would cause the belt to slip at one or the other pulley. I'm with nismo, check the belt tension. It's very easy to under or over tighten these belts.
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Kits won't swap. the 280ZX is wider and longer than the 280Z. Keep in mind that although the S30 is sweet ( I love my 77 ) the S130 does have better areodynamics ( I also love my 81, 82 and 83 ). Just a thought.
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qazwsxedcrtfvgbyuhnjmiko
Sorry...just drooled on my keyboard a bit there....
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Have you disassembled the switch and cleaned the contacts?
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Understood, my dad had some really old cars, plus some mercedies, still,
I'd be danged if I could not change a battery in any car;)
Now spark pulgs on a 86 911s turbo, well now that is something else!
Try a 1988 Jaguar XJS V12....HAHAHA....One of many reasons I sold that car. 8 hours to change a damned starter....
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Interesting that you were able to use just the transmission. I would have expected you would have changed out the driveshaft, rear diff (or at the minimum the pinion flange) and trans crossmember.
The differences are pretty extreme as far as Z transmissions go. The T5 has shorter gears requiring a taller rear diff of 3.54:1. The standard 79 trans had taller gears which required the use of a shorter rear of 3.90:1 (79 actually had several rear diff ratios and I'm still confused as to what the most common is). So the combo of the 79 trans with a turbo diff would give you a very long gear set meaning slow launches, but lots of top end. Also your speedo is going to be way off so don't use that to judge.
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Just wondering since the L series was based on the mercedes engines, do any of the mercedes heads fit even close to the L series block? Just curious..
This question is the exact reason why we need to watch the type of comments we make on here. I'm not saying the question is wrong, I'm just saying the information passed that spawned the question needs to be kept in check and verfied completely before being posted.
If you mean the L series was based on the Mercedes diesel in that it has cylinders, sure why not, but it truly has no physical resemblence to any Mercedes engine beyond being an engine in general. No interchangeable parts, not similar bolt patterns, nothing. The only diesel with anything related to an L engine is the L24 diesel from the Maximas.
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Flattops on an N42 will net around a ~10.5:1 compression ratio using a stock head gasket. Although the stock EFI can probably handle this on high octane with a bit of tuning it would be very picky about fuel choices and probably ping bad in the upper end. Using 87 octane it'll blow out the head gasket around the number 5 and 6 pistons (I know this from experience). Grab up a 2mm head gasket (if you can find one) and the compression drops to ~9.5:1. You'll still require a retune and high octane, but it shouldn't be as picky or as prone to pinging in the upper rpm range. If you would like some fun (albeit reasonable) power to play with throw in a mild cam, 2mm head gasket, MegaSquirt and a header with those flattops. All in all you can get something fun to drive with a bit of kick and upgradeability for less than $1000 in parts.
MS-II kit ~$250 (build it yourself and learn something)
DIY Autotune Harness ~$70
Mild Cam ~$300
2mm Head Gasket ~$160
Pistons and Rods ~$100
Time spent learning and building your car ~$Priceless.
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This is really neat, but also kind of creepy...How does google do this?
You can see my old red Fairlady, my white parts car, my turbo ZX, my garage (which holds 2 more z cars), my truck, my buddy's camaro (crappy V6), my house...everything...creepy...
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If no one chimes in you could always go through the forums and just read the threads that sound interesting. You learn quite a bit that way. Sorry, I'm a bit far down the road.
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I have a question. looking at the video how do you eliminate the AFM?
I didn't notice that...Good call...
What EFI are you using because it looks stock...
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First vehicle was a 1980s Mazda B2000 pickup. My father gave it to me when I got my license. I beat the hell out of it and ended up trading it for a 1985 Mustang lx with a 6 cylinder. Rear ended a pickup with that and it caught on fire because of the battery placement. Next was the 86 Toyota Corolla that got flooded. Rained for a week and I tried driving through what looked like a small puddle going across the road. Never ran right again. Next was the 88 Chevy Celebrity aka hoopty. Got from point a to point b with 5 friends no problem. The throttle had a tendency to stick and it finally stuck wide open one time and blew the engine. Next was the 65 chevy C10 with a 350 four bolt main, holly contender intake and 650 holly carb, vette 2.02 heads and a 4.11 rear. Great truck. 12 second quarter mile at the track. Rolled at 90mph on a back road. Kid backed out in front of me with no light on. he was trying to sneak his Dad's truck out with his buddy's but couldn't drive a manual and stalled it in the road. I swerved into the ditch, went end over end and bounced off the drivers side three times. The passengers side looked prestine, but I had to pry the drivers door open with a crow bar. Last but definetely not least, my first Z. 1981 280zx NA, black, t-tops, auto (hated that). Loved that car so much. I sold it in Texas after someone pried the drivers t-top out and pealed it back to get my wallet out of the console. I was an E-2 in the Army. No money, but easily financed for a newer vehicle. I won't go into the other cars I had after that unless someone really wants to hear the list.
280z wreck....if your squemish of z destruction dont look
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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A little buffing will fix that right up.
Seriously though, that sucks. I hate seeing a good Z go down like that.