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naviathan

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Posts posted by naviathan

  1. I got mine from Capital City Nissan in Atlanta. Most all of them ship out of Nissan's Tennessee warehouse, so you shouldn't have to wait too long to get them if you're in NC. Course - they screwed up my order and it took them nearly 10 days to get from Tn. to the A.T.L. !!!

     

    FYI - Nissan's part #'s for a .200" pad are 99996-M1200, and I'm almost 100% positive that the last 3 digits denote the pad thickness, so a .180" pad would be 99996-M1180. At least that's how my pads were labeled.

    That's exactly how the part numbers work. When they gave me the numbers at NISMO I asked if that was the case and they said it was just that simple.

  2. Awesome, thank you to everyone that chimed in. Courtesy sent me to NISMO to get the part numbers, but once they had them it was good to go. The .220" were $3 each and the .260" were $3.65 each. They said because they had to order the .260" ones it would be about 4-6 days. Great customer service over there. Incase anyone needs this info:

     

    NISMO

    1-888-833-3225

    Lash Pads (AKA Rocker Valve Guides)

    .220" 99996M1220

    .260" 99996M1260

    Courtesy Nissan

    1-800-527-1909

  3. Local Nissan parts counter is where I purchase ALL of my L-series lash pads... Actually, I call them, tell em what thickness and how many, they deliver them to my door. :wink:

    That must be nice. I just called my Local Nissan Parts Department and they can only get them in the stock size and they want $7 each before taxes for them.

  4. Why don't you find out by asking them yourself? I just bought 12 of them for 30 some odd dollars from my local dealer here in Charleston. Nissan still has them.

    That was only slightly condescending, thanks. I just assumed Nissan, if they had them at all, would carry only stock size pads for rebuilds.

     

    Hybridz.org is starting to get just as rude as zcar.com.

  5. I got my head back from the machinist finally (second head since I screwed up the last one). It's an E88 using the N42 valves and a brand new schneider 290/290 .495/.495 cam (yes that's the MSA "Stage IV"). I just went through and did a check on the lash and it's even across the board, .260" Int and .220" Exh. After looking at MSA's pricing for individual lash pads I was hoping someone on here knew of a cheaper place to get them because they're insane. $5.95 per pad plus shipping?? Any leads would be great.

  6. Doen't hurt do do a baseline check...

    It could. Rotating the engine enough without a properly primed and pumping lubrication system could do damage. I wouldn't risk it myself. Standard compression test is 5 rotations per cylinder. That's 30 rotations total on just assembly lube and whatever oil used in the assembly process.

  7. That makes sense...is there a lot of length difference between the P and N valves? Like maybe 1/8th of an inch?

     

    The cam that was in the head had a very small base circle (there is a pic on the first page). I suppose it's possible that in Japan there's a school of thought that says: run the N valves in a P90 head, and instead of cutting down the valves, use a smaller base circle cam.

     

    When it was running, the valvetrain was noisy as hell (and the engine didn't make much power) so I'm quite happy to explore alternative routes here :D

    That's about right. When I meaasured them up it was roughly an 1/8th of an inch difference.

  8. A P90 maybe, but most P90A heads are hydrolic. Honestly, I think you may have a P90 with N42 valves. If what you're dealing with is a long valve stem then I would give that the safe bet. Aftermarket valves for the N series heads are abundant, but not for the P series so the proper thing to do is use N series valves and have them cut down to size. Maybe someone didn't do this (or know this)?

  9. Knoppix? Interesting...referencing the famous Linux Live CD?

     

    Onto your post. I'd have to agree with the others. Get the appropriate tools for flaring and bending brake tubing, buy the raw materials and do it yourself. Use a string and tape to get a measurement on how long a piece of tube you need. remember to add 2-4 inches to the string length to account for tube length lost in all the bends and any oops in flaring.

  10. I can't see the pics in this thread because of network restrictions at the office, but the first question I have after reading through the thread is, what head is this? If it's a P series head and someone put N series valves in it that would make the valve stem longer in relation to the head than stock and it's not unheard of.

  11. hay guys ! this is my first post here. i joined just because of this thread. and had to chime in. .... so how about using the subframe from a solstace or view,or maybe a vette. i know they are cast alluminum and you could posision it forward or back an inch or so. you would prolly hafto still cut the stock oil pan up but it may give you some room to play and its got the power rac and pinion bolted on alredy. just my 2 cents

    Interesting thought, but I think it would fall well out of most people budgets.

  12. don't mean to be one to hijack my own thread, but all this begs a few questions:

    when does a compression ratio require higher octane? (10:1, or higher?)

    are there any special tools, or just tips and tricks people know, for when i rip this thing apart this weekend?

     

    it looks like either way I'm going to be tearing it down, because even if I ship it seperately, I'll want to do it in pieces so it isn't this ungainly mess in a box.

     

    and i realy like the lawn ornament idea. I'll hide the pistons in my sock drawer, and put my crankshaft in my fishtank and hope no one notices...

     

    ;)

    I said high octane because that's what killed two head gaskets on my 81 before I figured out what was going on with it. Now with a higher lift cam I could probably knock that down considerably, but I'm not sure I want to take the chance of detonating and breaking ring lands this time instead of the head gasket. Of course I firmly believe one of the first things that needs to be replaced on a stock Z before you start going overboard with upgrades is the EFI. Either go carbed or pick up an after market system lik MS.

  13. I love how the chick in the movie calls it a high rise double pumper or something (totaly wrong) like that in the movie, lol I have it but I dont feel like getting it out and FFing to the scene.

    My wife and I watched the movie in the theater and when she said that every guy in there started groaning and complaining. The guy in front of us said, "She was looking soooo hot until she screwed that one up..."

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