naviathan
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Posts posted by naviathan
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I would buy from him....
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Spray bar is the better lubrication system, assuming the holes aren't all clogged with crap.
There was a huge discussion about this a while back and iirc (as I was corrected on this before) the "better" oiling system is a matter of opinion, they're both good.
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Check/clean in order. (with battery disconnected)
(clean. A little di-electric grease helps)
1.tps connector
2.maf sensor connectors
3.ecu connector
fuel filter.
He said it has carbs...
Check/replace the fuel filter(s). Doubtful it's the pump because with carbs it would just stumble and die once the bowls emptied so clean and tune the carbs. Outside of a fuel system problem it could be a bad coil that gets weak after it heats up.
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I've seen that valve cover before and I just can't remember where. Nice buy, it's definitely rare...It's going to kill me now that I can't remember where I saw it before.
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Haltech all the way
I don't think you can compare the two fairly unless you take away 3/4 of the haltech options, then you are left with a quality or budget decision.
Come again? MS has time and again proven itself in both performance and reliability. 90% of the problems with MS are user error and even then instead of being stuck with a muddled heap of electronics you can't do anything with, the MS is completely rebuildable with full schematics online and great support sites. If you're buying pre-assembled then yes, you knock out 6-8 hours of time spent. The rest of the "difficulty" depends on how you want to install it. it took me 3-4 hours to install my MS-II using the universal harness from the site. I think the end result here is going to depend completely on personal preference. The two products are equally reliable and capable.
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I would imagine it would just be a matter of changing the bellhousing to match.
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Orange Cleaner. Something like Awesome! or Goo-B-Gone works well.
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Use a propane torch and burn the bondo out. I had to do it on a hood that someone had covered the whole thing with anywhere from 1/16" to 1/4" of bondo.
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Detonation from heat soak in the cylinders or fuel lines just starting to vapor lock. AAR could be cooling down while shut off and the 2-3 minutes is a vacuum leak from the valve opening. Leaking injectors flooding cylinder while shut down. I could go on for a while with possibilities, but you'll have to give us some more info to go on.
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Yeah those driveshaft nuts are a pain. With the rear wheels off the ground you should be able to turn the shaft by hand to get the nuts in an easier position to work with. Just keep them soaked down in PB Blaster and get a PROPER SIZED WRENCH so you DON"T round the edges. I believe the shaft nuts are a 10mm or 12mm. They should loosen up eventually so long as you keep working with them carefully. I also suggest using a flat punch and a small hammer to tap them with or a mechanics torch to heat them with. Sometimes it loosens whatever is holding them to the threads.
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You can get closer to that goal if not achieve it using flat top pistons.
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I've heard from a lot of people that the MS1 Extra tables are different from even the standard MS2 code. I think it's just the MS1-E that's the problem and you switched to a more accurate code now.
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http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html
I'm sure you can figure this one out. More than likely it's just a bad or disconnected sensor.
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Didn't get to see that episode, might have to petition them to release that car back to the Z car community.
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So what you're telling my is this one is done for? I was trying to model the short side after the P90 more because it has such a nice smooth run right into the combustion chamber. Everything I read online about porting in general said the short side was very important. Maybe that just stands true for Chevy and Ford?
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I finally got around to finishing up the rough work on the intake ports in my N42 head. Bad news is ports 2 and 3 now have a hole in them. One on the short radius in 3 and one just up from the short radius in 2. Those are the only two ports that had any issues. I remember reading a thread a while back about filling holes like this with some kind of metal epoxy and I wanted to see if anyone out there remembers this? If I can't fill these holes then I'm going to have to pull the E88 off my 77 and try to just smooth the ports as I'm a bit shaky about porting now. This was just a gasket match job and two ports broke through. The rest are fine so I wonder if it was just a shift in the sand molds from the factory or if I really went to far down? Anyhow, thoughts?
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On the turbo I don't think you can adjust the ignition timing. The NA is 8-10* BTD, but I believe the turbo runs considerably higher timing. In any case, it might pay to do some research on the site. Also search the site for a Factory Service Manual. You can download them from one of the members here who has graciously taken the time to scan all the manuals he has or has been sent into PDF.
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Which weighs more, a ton of z cars or a ton of feathers?
Ummmm...gee....the ton of...cats?
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Good point
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What you dont know that the 280z 2+2's came stock with 550 hp from a twin turbo charged L37???
Well of course, that's just common knowledge, but they were limited to 159.6mph from the factory so there's no way he could have gone 160mph.
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In fact, it goes way back....
Someone started talking trash against a twin-cam L-6 and got proved wrong...damn doubters...
So he was beaten with a banana peel, hehe!! (buh buh bubles was his name, I think)
WOw....I had forgotten all about bubbles until you said that...He was the one with a 160mph stock 280z 2+2
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For those of you wondering where bananas come from, here's a hint...
Wow...that's...um....funny...I think...I laugh but at the same time, that's just wrong man....
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Hybridz Creativity at it's finest... This thread only gets better with time.
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An so there you have it... RayG1988 new usertitle...
Hmmmm...looks like a giant mutant catfish.....
ok got the wheels on it and lowered it
in S130 Series - 280ZX
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Needs struts...how'd you lower it?