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naviathan

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Posts posted by naviathan

  1. pink z not having a thermo wasnt the problem... it was the previous owners of the pinks Z that were the problem... also.. i would have removed fan clutch an installed two slim fans

     

    the nt having thermo might have helped in the fact that it was running rich off the get go but ... by the 2nd an thiurd time it wasnt gonna last

    Hmmmm, 2 posts, very recent join date and you know about the pinks z....Couldn't imagine you were one of our unfortunately banned members from that little fiasco?...

  2. The wife had to work late last night so I sat down from 6:30 to 11:30 and started assembling another MS-II. I'm still a little slow at these. After a few more I'll hopefully get to a point I can slap one together completely within that amount of time. I did spend a bit looking for tools last night too as they tend to make their way off my work bench and into the garage or other areas of the house. Anyhow, here's some stopping point pics...

    06-07-07_2337.jpg

    06-07-07_2336.jpg

     

    Silver solder is much prettier that the other stuff I was using...:D

  3. You definitely want to run a thermostat. It's there for several reasons, getting to temp and maintaining said temp. As for the Pinks Z over heating, I think there were more problems there that contributed to it then just a thermostat. The grounding MSD wires and just generally improperly tuned engine were more effective to that end than the thermostat. I don't know what the final consensus was, but I think they were boosting too much and weren't feeding enough fuel in the top end. I think a couple more runs and they would have blown the ring lands from pinging.

  4. Have you thought about this real hard yet? A GPS receiver is an electronic device. Albeit some of them are very tough and rugged, they are still prone to failure. Especially in a car that can get 100+ degrees inside easily. LCD screens especially are prone to failure in extreme temperatures. Then there's the visibility problem. If the sun is going down and it hits that screen just right you've lost it, you won't be able to see that thing until the sun goes down completely. There's too many down falls to having a simple GPS receiver as a speedo. Not to mention it's damned expensive too for something that's not going to work if you go into a tunnel or get stuck in a really bad storm. There's also the pick up time. My hand held takes a good minute to two minutes to finally find all the satellites it needs for a full 3d location reading. Don't need 3d? Yes you do. Without a 3d location your speed reading will be wrong when going up inclines or down hills, around mountains, etc... I've thought about this one. I'll stick to calibrating my speedo off my GPS and just keep the GPS in it's cradle on trips. I'm still using my stock speedo too. It was a pain in the rear calibrating it, but I finally got it spot on. I'm dead on up to 60mph at which point it goes just shy of 1mph fast of the GPS signal.

  5. Hmmm, cheap buy for the engine, but have you priced parts? I had an 88' Jag XJS. Loved driving it, hated working on it. Damned starter was $400 and took like 6 hours to replace. Don't go Jag. Don't go V12 in all honesty.

  6. It should work fine, but I wouldn't use it to connect to the Alt to the batt. I'd run a straight shot to the battery from the Alt and then branch off the + side of the battery back up to the engine bay for the block. The less resistance between the alt and batt the better.

  7. So the black canister that all the vacuum switches and lines for the AC system run into is essentially a vacuum canister. Even with a check valve when accelerating you know longer have a consistent vacuum pull, but if you routed a line off one of the throttle body ported vacuum ports you'd get vacuum even when accelerating as those ports don't pull until the throttle plate is cracked.

     

    I think my vents are dropping off so quickly because of the bad vacuum switch for the idle bump. Need to get another one.

  8. Ok so I'm sure others have noticed this, but when accelerating in my ZX with the AC on the vents switch down to the floor obviously because of the lack of vacuum. This has become quite irritating lately because it's taking longer to get the vents back up into the panel where they should be and I can't for the life of me understand why. The vacuum switch on the manifold is going bad and needs to be changed out soon (keeps making this annoying buzzing sound) but that's just for the idle bump isn't it? Seems when the vents don't want to come back to panel that damned vacuum switch is making all kinds of noise. Could it be leaking bad enough to lower the manifold pressure enough to loose vent control?

     

    Ok my real intent for this thread was to ask a simple question. Everything in the Z A/C works on vacuum (especially mine with the Auto Temp Control). Instead of loosing that vacuum when accelerating why not run a line off the manifold and off one of the ported vacuum ports on the throttle body. Place a one way lock in each line so you can only get vacuum and run them to a vacuum canister, then run your vacuum necessary connections from that. Would that not enable you to have vacuum whether on the throttle or off?

  9. You know it's funny how a place can seem so beautiful and fun when you visit, but for those of us that live here, it's not all that great...BTW, here's my roof rack...

    05-28-07_1646.jpg

    05-28-07_1613.jpg

    05-28-07_1612.jpg

     

    It's a universal mount, locking Thule roof rack with a set of RV-Innov locking surfboard racks on top. Works awesome and it's not going anywhere.

  10. Hehehe...I'm not a swap expert so I don't have anything for you other than...HELL YES!!!! All the reason in the world to do the swap is in this forum. Now for sad part. Most of your mounts are probably gonna be custom pieces, but by no means let that stop you. We've all had to one off something just to get the Z back on the road. It's what makes this site what it is.

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