naviathan
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Posts posted by naviathan
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Put it in one of the storage boxes behind the seats.
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The alternator regulation is not important as the MS has an internal 5V regulator for the ECU and RS-232 interface chip. You may have a problem with the internal regulator. Check pin 3 of U5 (regulator), or pin 16 of U6 (max232). The voltage on these pins should be a constant 5V, no matter what the battery voltage is.
How much does the battery voltage fluctuate? Where is the +12V supply to the MS coming from. It should be connected to the battery (not the alternator, or starter motor). The battery acts as a large capacitor, which filters out low frequency noise. This is why it is important to connect the MS (or relay board) to the battery (thorough a fuse of course).
Sorry, my thought was if the battery voltage is going up it could be causing the MS to restart from an overvoltage. Hence the voltage regulator would have to be bad. How can alternator regulation not be important? Measure voltage at your battery cold and measure again with the engine running. You'll have ~12v not running and ~14v running. The battery might filter noise, but a constant voltage increase is going to pass right on to the other components in the car. You can over volt the system if the alternator is throwing too much voltage out.
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Anyway, I'd place tweeters on the dash, mids behind the seats in the stock locales and sub(s) in the rear hatch. Run a crossover in the dash behind the stereo or somewhere close to split everything out properly and an amplifier on the sub and you should be good to go. Use some ceramic disc capacitors on the tweets (if they don't already have a filter) to keep your highs clean and of course some filter caps on the subs (those are usually electrolitic due to the high power), but leave the mids open as a filter would probably strip some of your sound from the mid range. That's just my oppinion.
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Hmmm doesn't this:
Look kinda like Shrek's Ear?
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The volts rise? How much before it locks? Sounds to me like your alt isn't regulating properly.
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As with many others I came over from zcar.com. I went between the two for a while, then I got tired of my posts being deleted because some little prick wanted to start an arguement every time I posted anything so I moved here and quit posting over there. Now I'm also a mod a zraceproducts.com. Another great site with some very helpful people and beautiful zcars.
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Cool, I'd be interested in seeing how it turns out when you're done. Keep us posted.
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not the best pic (camera was dying so thats why its so dark) but of well. Its a work in progress. yes the steering wheel is but ugly. im working on getting another one. any one got one they need to get rid of?
everything glows red at night. ill see if i can get a pick later today if people want.
Man that is sweet looking. I love it.
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Best shift points for mileage, between 2500 and 3000 RPMs. For racing it depends on the car. How you're setup, what HP you're putting down and where your power bands are at. Doing burnouts is simple, but be careful where. The cops can nail you with a nice hefty fine and to top it off you end up replacing your tires more often. Give it some gas, dump the clutch and floor it and your tires will spin, just watch the tach. You don't want to redline and blow your engine. If you can shift fast enough you can change gears to keep your burn going (this is really hard on the clutch) or just pull off the gas pedal enough to keep in the high end of your power band without going over. Dumping the clutch is just that. You push it to the floor and slip your foot off letting the pedal pop up completely. Slipping the clutch is releasing it too slowly and allowing it to friction burn causing premature wear of the clutch disc, glassing of the friction zones on the plate and flywheel and possible warping of the flywheel from heat. One of the best tips I can give for RPM control when doing burnouts and such is feathering the gas. Just quickly depress and press the gas pedal. Don't release completely otherwise you'll stall, but quick up and down motions with the toe work really well. You'll get the hang of all this as you drive it more. And again, BE CAREFUL!
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I'm sorry I have to chime in here. I drive with a cellphone. These days it's kind of a must. I spend a lot of time on the road for hundreds of miles a week. I'm not a trucker or a professional driver of any kind, I just have a busy schedule through out the week. I use my cellphone with and without a headset in the car and I use it through my intercom system on my bike. I have no issues with multi tasking while driving. Most people in todays society don't. Accidents are usually caused by other distractions on the road or just plain stupidity. If a cellphone or someone talking to you distracts you that much while driving, I'd be afraid to be on the road with you simply because if anything happens that takes your attention in the least you'd probably loose it.
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I'm liking this idea. I love my stock steering wheel on my 77, but that horn button does need to be changed. If someone could come up with a nice design for a little money (somewhere between $20-$40) I could see buying one.
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Just use a small bit and a punch to tap a center in the end of the stud. Most of the broken studs I've run across were due to warping in the manifold so the studs weren't froze in place, they just snapped off at the end. I can understand your apprehension for the easy outs. I have a broken exhaust flange stud with the tip of an easy out stuck in it. Can't do anything about it so I guess it's time to throw a header on.
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Get a set of reverse cut drill bits and try those. usually with the exhaust studs they will come right out. I used an extractor set and I really did not need to. They were just that easy to remove.
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Check the local junkyards and the classified ads on the forums. Im sure there has to be one somewhere near you. eBay could also be a big help. You can try refining the search to so many miles from your zip code.
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Eh, it's ok. Was just hoping to get rid of my Autotemp system. Damned thing doesn't move the power servo so I have to manually reach under the dash and switch from hot to cold. I get nothing in between, full hot or full cold.
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N42 doesn't flow as well as the P90 and the cam profiles being different would probably cause afr problems under boost.
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Interested in getting rid of that manual control set for the AC?
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In 1985 I don't think there was a chip that you could change out. I think it's a pretty straight forward design.
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You have issues. But, besides that, if you have fuel and spark then your cylinder is firing. My suggestion would be to go back over every connection and make sure it's right. How do you know you have spark? How do you know you have fuel? Just because the number 3 is dry doesn't mean it's not getting fuel, just means it could be getting fuel but it's properly burning it so the plug isn't wet. Check your plugs wires, check your fuel pressure, check your fuel injector connections. More info, better checks...You're bot giving us much to work with.
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New synchros. They're just really tight so they make that little whine. It'll go away as everything wears in.
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What's the problem? We can probably walk him through it.
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Not to argue, but the 22R I cherried the manifold on was fine after richening the mixture. Running a rich mixture can cause fuel to burn in the exhaust, but usually that only makes a popping or backfiring sound and doesn't really create any more heat than is already there. Excess fuel will "wash" a cylinder causing it to cool. Hence the reason Harley's ignition modules will shutdown cylinders when the temps get too high. No spark no fire, cool fuel washes cylinder, reduces temps, bike stays running (although a bit rough and slugish) and nothing warps. fuel burning in a manifold isn't hot enough to cause the manifold to heat up to cherry red. It's no longer compressed once it's pushed out the exhaust thereby making temps lower than in the cylinder. Lean however will superheat the air left in the cylinder and blow it out the exhaust causing the manifold to heat. Heating the manifold and the internal cylinder temps causes the engine to run hotter in general and I've even seen it burn holes in pistons, melt valves and deform exhaust headers. Perfect example of too much air not enough fuel and the effects on metal. Look at an Oxy/Acetylene cutting torch. regular mixture heats the metal, but as soon as you hit that extra oxygen it melts and blasts through it. The Acetylene is the fuel, the oxygen helps it burn just like gas in a cylinder. You increase the amount of oxygen over the amount fuel and it get super hot. Anyhow, sorry to ramble.
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Sloshing metal ready sounds good to me. I honestly can't think of anything any better.
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You can't really tell by the consuption rating of the tool how good it will be, but typically the lower the cfm the less powerfull the tool. However just because it has a high cfm rating doesn't mean it's any good either. Some cheap china made tools have a huge cfm rating, but they're not built to maximize the air it's using. Buy quality tools, especially when it comes to air tools.
26 gallons @ 6.4cfm is a small compressor and isn't going to be able to handle a sander, a cutoff or a die grinder. All three of those tools use a lot of air. Even on my 60 gallon @ 12.5 cfm my compressor kicks in after only a short time using my cutoff or my sander. The die grinder is really bad if I have it at full speed. You will need a better compressor for the work you want to do.
megasquirt freezes up
in MegaSquirt
Posted
I didn't realize MS has such a variable amount it would regulate.