naviathan
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Posts posted by naviathan
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No, 39-11 is the ID of the 3.54. See this:
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Sometimes refurbs are better than the brnad new ones. Quite often when a manufacturer identifies a potential failure item in a product line they won't announce it unless it becomes a high percentage problem. The ones that do fail and are sent back get refurbed with a replacement part to fix the problem. I'd buy refurbed in a heartbeat. Save money and potentially get a better product... Either way it's as good as new. The first time you strike an arc any cosmetic blemishes aren't going to matter because you'll probably create more.
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If you are going to shave and shim then yes, you could use the N series valves, although you'd be shaving and shimming a lot.
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San Diego wasn't so nice when I was there last. October last year I was sent to Camp Pen. for some training and it all seemed very dirty and over populated.
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pintle caps I believe is what they're called. Z Doctor has them and/or can get them.
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The lift in the rear makes me think the mustache bar broke loose. But the not moving sounds like you stripped a gear out some how.
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How so? We can't help if you don't elaborate.
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Can anyone confirm that P90 Valves are exactly the same as any other head?
I always thought they were longer...every valve site is telling me otherwise.
The P90 valves are actually shorter than the N Series valves.
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Nice, I love it. I'll take two. They're free right?
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Tightening them.
The bleeders have no idea when the air is gone. When they're loose they allow pressure to relieve in the lines without allowing air to come back in. When you tighten them down they stop allowing the pressure out.
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That's a new one on me. Never heard of it being done at all.
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More than likely they took it for a joy ride and got bored so they swiped the head unit and ran. Check the engine and tranny over real good.
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Vacuum leak and possibly the BCDD (Boost Controlled Deceleration Device). Search it, there's a lot of info out there on it. Oh and also check the O2 sensor. There's a green LED on the bottom of the ECU. When the car is warmed up it should flash as it reads the O2 sensor at idle and cruising. At WOT it should go out. If it's solid you need to replace the O2.
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Sweet, thanks COZY.
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.004" is what they suggest will help compression and rnig seal. I still don't see this being of any help to an engine. What does it do to the oil pump? Oil jets? Bearings? That .004" build up will accumulate over everythging and could actually bring about some serious issues with clearances on vitals parts of the engine. I don't think this is a well thought additive. To top things off I don't think it's real.
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Absolutely surprising isn't it? And they let these people breed.
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My guess would be chicken wire reinforcement with a fiberglass and rubber shell.
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I checked MSA as I know in the past they carried colortune for the L28, but it's not there anymore... Anyone know what size colortune kit I'd need?
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You should actually use both if you want a proper tune. Keeps everything balanced and burning clean.
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Looks a bit like bull to me. There's not hard proof of anything there. The vehicles tested were tested in california, yet the company is in Iowa (or at least their PO Box is). I see no patent information, no real explanation of how it works. With a product like this I would have expected some kind of molecular level explanation of how the ceramic bonds to the metal. It's not just going to do it on it's own, there should be some sort of catalyst to create the particlate attraction. Where are the un-bias test results from what company? I don't trust it. Nice site and aside from some gramatical errors through out it's almost convincing. However I see no hard proof that this stuff even exists.
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Given the wire color coding and the factory looking loom I'd have to agree, it does look like a power antenna switch.
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You want torque, pull the injectors out more. The further from the valve the more time the fuel has to atomize which creates a better burn in the cylinder. I like the tapering. That should really increase air velocity into the cylinders. It looks like you have the right idea so far, but you may want to check out Top End Performance. They have a tripple throttle body setup that's 3 banks of two throttles instead of 2 banks of three. http://www.racetep.com
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PM me, I have one. It's in my 77, but that's getting a TEC III when it's done.
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Sounds like some kind of legal bull. We have big block powered Z Cars here and they don't seem to have any problems. Give the inspector the webaddress here and tell him to browse the setups we've got going on. That should put his mind at rest...
PWM Measurements
in MegaSquirt
Posted
How big a scope do you need to take measurements like this? I have an old o-scope that a friend gave, but I think it's 100mhz at the most.