naviathan
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Posts posted by naviathan
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I think, given the area you have to work with the design looks good, but I'd worry about the welds. It might be better to flatten the ends of the bar where it is to be welded then allowing you to lay a three wall bead and get better penetration into the bar itself. I'm also a bit concerned about the stability of the radiator support you're running to in the front. It's not thick metal and given a hard enough brake or corner it could flex and bend. Maybe you could extend the base plate in the front to better support that area.
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One of the previous owners of my house was a concrete mason and there was a ton of rebar behind my house so I had them throw as much rebar in it as they saw fit to make the concrete as strong as possible. It's worked out well so far, but I haven't gone the lift route yet. My garage is 23'x27' and it cost me $1500 for the concrete. I got the fiber mix for more support too. The only thing I wish I had done differently is get the surface smoothed. I had them do a brush finish for better adhesion when I painted the epoxy. In retrospec I think it's too course and could be a bit smoother, but it works and I'm happy to have a nice place to work under my cars. Of course now I've got more junnk in there than I know what to do with and I need to clean it out.
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6"-8" thick concrete...Man that must have cost a pretty penny to have poured. I had mine done at 4" as that's the minimum recommended for a lift and concrete is expensive since Katrina hit. Everything here is being shipped down there for repairs.
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Yeah I did too. I always said I wouldn't get into this crap, but the wife wanted me to so she could send me messages and crap.
http://www.myspace.com/naviathan
Of course there's not much to it. I don't spend much time on there other than to check messages.
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Campbell Hausfeld is garbage. I have one of their air ratchets and so far I've had to completely dissaseble it twice and oil it because it was getting slow and locking up. I just can't afford to get a nice one right now. I say keep the tank, get rid of the compressor and buy another one (better one) and plumb the two together for more capacity.
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1st Degree Black Belt in Songhom Taekwondo through the American Taekwondo Association. Of course that was a long time ago and I just haven't had time lately to get back into it.
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Wow, I didn't pay that much for mine, but I bought it off eBay. The website seems a bit shaky to me. Their explanations sound like rubbish as does the product itself. I'd be leary of that one.
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it does need a power source. At least the one I have does. Uses a small current to ionize the body and the frame to repel oxidation.
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The swap would be pretty much the same as a SBC swap which there is a ton of info about on this site.
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You have to cut down the lower mounting bracket and drill it out to accept a long through bolt. Click here for a write up and some added comments from other Zers.
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Those look pretty close to the same lights and position.
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I have one for my Z I was going to put on it when I get done restoring it. The idea is to ionize the metal so that the oxidation can't stick. There still stands the possability of rust, but at least it won't stick to the metal and continue eating at it. Slows it down mostly.
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One of two things happened. Either there was a wire connected to one of bolts that fell off when you pulled the terminal or for some reason you blew a fusible link or a fuse when you reconnected it. I would look for a loose wire around the battery that looks like it would have gone to it.
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I think the guys full of it and there's probably a lot more wrong with it then what you've seen so far. I'd tell him to stuff it and go look for something else.
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Yeah, but it wasn't intended as a topic, just a joke.
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Nice, I like the real vidz better. The music in the first one killed it.
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In town we have two churches at either end, one Baptist and one Catholic. Oddly the parsonage for each church is closer to the other church so every Sunday the Priest and the Pastor ride bicycles and have to pass one another on their way to their respective churches. They greet each other every morning and often stop for a moment to converse. One morning the Baptist Pastor was riding along and came across the Catholic Priest who was walking. He stopped and inquired about his bicycle. The Priest said it had been stolen and he was quite upset about it. The Pastor said ok, here's what you do. Today you go over the 10 commandments and when you get to "Thou Shalt Not Steal" you watch the congregation closely and the thief will reveal himself. The next day the Pastor and the Priest are both riding again and the Pastor stops and asks again about the priests bike. "So the thief came forward I take it?" asked the Pastor. "No," said the Priest, "I went down the 10 commandments like you said and as I got to 'Thou Shalt Not Covet Thy Neighbors Wife' I remembered where I had left my bike!"
All in good fun, don't take offense...
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Looks sweet and I guess for a daily driven track car in a decent climate that would work. I'm a little curious about the heating elements though. They don't get too hot for the plastic around them? I know the stock vents are very light flexible plastic that gets mushy when hot. Noce work though. I'll bet you end up with the squirel cage. Computer fans are not great for flow.
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Wow... That's all I can say really. Wonder how many of those guys actually survived?
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That was going to be my suggestion was checking the alt output. It would be dropping low at idle due to worn brushes and picking up enough juice when spun up to smooth things out. If you have the money and the tools I would do the GM alt conversion and get a 100A alt from JC Whitney ($89 not sure what shipping is). My alt is taking a crap again and I'm tired of messing with the Nissan alts. They cost too much and you have to wait for it to come in. If you get the cheap ones though they don't last more than 3 months. Gm alts are common, put out more amperage and are cheaper. Does anyone else know of a good place to get the 100A GM alts cheap? JC Whitney is the best I've found so far. Just make sure when you're buying one that you get it with a single groove pulley to match. Unless you want to go with a serpentine system like the ones that Z Race Products offers.
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There was a huge thread on this guy at zcar.com as well. The guy he did this too last time was waiting a year before he got anything back on it. Even then it was just his money back I think.
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Pull the TTops and apply a heavy coat of parts cleaner. The chemicals in parts cleaner will make the rubber expand. Leave it on there for an hour then wipe it off and apply either baby oil or vaseline to keep it from drying out.
EDIT: You may have to this several times depending on how bad the weather stripping is. I did this on my 81ZX. It took three times because the rubber had shrunk so much, but it worked. My seats aren't wet anymore when it rains.
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True, but on the same level humans evolved and taught each other communication skills and science and such. Animals haven't made it that far yet. They have some basic reasoning, but no real cognative processes.
Need help choosing 5.0 swap parts
in Ford V8Z Tech Board
Posted
Well, I'm not familiar with small block swaps, but it looks like you've got a good start there. I would be concerned about the amount of torque you'll be pushing through the Z and looking into strengthening the chassis a bit. Wouldn't want to romp on it and twist something.