naviathan
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Posts posted by naviathan
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Rare? How is it rare when you can get them from Top End Performance brand new in 40mm, 45mm, 48mm and 50mm versions not to mention the EFI version as well as carbs.
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I think he meant Forced Induction (F/I)
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Looks a lot like a futuristic cougar or the new charger.
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Haha, yeah I remember that in 02 or 03 I think it was. I35 froze over from San Antonio north and the state troopers shut it down. I was stuck on my way back to Fort Hood from Austin. Had to detour off the interstate and go up 190 which thankfully wasn't blocked, but very slick. Had to do 25 the whole way. Of course I only had a little 2wd S10 with street radials.
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I've heard 200hp. Don't know the calculations myself, but this has been covered before. Try searching the forum.
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WTF?? Can you get a better pic of that? I don't recognize it. What year and model Z is that?
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Happy thanksgiving everyone! I'm driving my ZX today and hoping the Alternator doesn't die again! lol
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How much for your T5 when you're done? I'm too busy (or lazy) for this upgrade. I'll vote sticky on this as well.
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Sounds like a failing brake booster, not master cylinder. If the master cylinder were failing the pedal would be soft and difficult to stop. The booster helps make the pedal manageable. Check the vacuum lines as was stated by others. If that doesn't present an issue then pull the booster and check it out.
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Wow, you should be munching on that for a while!
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Hi,
So, I'm going to install the 60mm throttle body I bought from a member here a couple of weeks ago. This is my first mod to the completely stock L28 in my 78 280Z. First off, I need a larger diameter hose to run from the AFM to the throttle body, where or what should I use to make this?
Same stuff they use for cold air intakes and intercooler piping. Mandrel bent pipe and rubber sleeves. Check out some of the ricer performance shops around town or eBay and you'll find it.
Personally, I would make a fitting to connect it to and some of the IC/CAI piping already has a bung for it. Several people on here have just stuck a filter on the end of the tube coming out of the valve cover. It is part of the pcv system, but it's not the pcv valve. That's under the intake. Because of the way the pcv system works in these cars, I would make the connection at the intake and hook it up right rather than risk a build up of noxious/acidic gasses in my crankcase.Secondly, there is what I think is the PCV valve hose coming off that stock hose, do I need to make something to re-use this? or do most people just remove it all together?
And lastly, being a California car, it is equipped with a BCDD, I don't see anyway to reinstall that, so I'm going to toss it, right? (good riddance)
Most importantly, if I do just end up removing some of this junk, do I need to cap off any of the holes, or what?
Thanks for any and all help.
Cap it or put a filter on it.
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Seems to me that regardless of peoples differing attitudes everyone use to let dogs lie to avoid an arguement. I don't know about anyone else, but I was really interested in this thread until the bashing started. If you don't like what bubbles had to say ignore it and move on. It's that simple. You're on the internet, what's the point in arguing? There will never be a resolve as no one will ever prove him right or wrong and vise versa. This is a tech forum to gather information and resolve problems, not argue and bicker amongst ourselves over who has what and whether it can really run...But I digress, no point in continuing this path of soap box ranting as it only serves to bring me down to the level this thread has gone to.
Remember when pointing a finger at someone else, there's three more pointing back at you.
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Amd to think, I stopped posting at zcar.com because I thought this site was so much more mature....Boy was I fooled. I have two words for the last HALF of this thread...
GROW UP!
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Can you say cheese grater? If your leg got caught in that it would be ground beef.
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That should be sweet! Let me know how it goes and send pics!
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Ummmmm
That's horrible. Tell me it's photo chopped. -
Ummm, you're not understanding, we don't want to engine to stay running, just the cooling system.
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I say "almost never" because there are people out there who can break anything given enough time.
You must work with Marines too....lol
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Hey thanks so much for the advice guys! and yeah it does feel good to finally do my own work. The Z shop in town charges such a ridiculous amount for anything they do, i can't afford much more than advice from them. Before my Z i had a 90' accord that wasn't much worth putting any work into, so i'm glad i finally have a car that i enjoy driving/working on.
Thanks again!
That's the joy of owning Z. It's fun to drive and easy to work on. My DD is an 81ZX. It's had lots of problems but when you sit down and figure it up, it's still way cheaper than buying something new or anything you have a payment on. Plus it looks way better.
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dang y'all, that was the most information that i have ever gotten from a thread. just wondering, i am REALLY good with computers, but when it comes down to wiring and all that fun stuff.....ain't going to happen. if i paid someone to run the ecu and all that fun stuff around how much would it probably cost? and who makes the best ecu's? i want the most power possible, and i realize that i can get alot more power through the ecu's because of all the tuning options. If i get someone to run the wires and all that fun stuff i will be able to tune it myself, i always have my laptop with me, and i can learn just about anything that involves a computer, but i would have to get someone else to wire up everything for me. thank you once again.
Expensive! If you can even find someone to do it. Your average "Joe Garage Mechanic" wouldn't take on a task like that. You'd have to find a specialty shop that's willing to do it. They're around, but I've never seen one myself.
That's all a matter of oppinion. There are many ECU manufacturers out there. Electromotive, Mega Squirt, Haltec, etc... Google can render hundreds of manufacturers and all of them have their pros and cons. I went with Electromotive and their TEC3 unit because it's well known, has an extensive track record in performance, has a simple but extensive interface software and it's capable of doing everything I want it to. And it came with a package I bought from Top End Performance. It is very expensive though. Weigh your options and look at what you want to do with the car then look at the money you're willing to spend. Good luck!
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Ok we'll look at the actual question and make a decisive and basic answer.
I have been trying to find out what woul be the best route for the most power? carb, throttle body, or fuel injected? I can't find anything definite on it all. would someone please give me a pros/cons list. thanks for the help.Given the subject of the thread being fuel the answer is multiport EFI with an aftermarket engine management system.
Carb - Pros - Simple design that gets the job done. It can be used on many applications with little to no knowlege of the engine functions.
- Cons - Doesn't self adjust for conditions and isn't precise in fuel metering.
TB Injection - Pros - Again, simple design, but allows for more control than a carb as it can be controlled and the fuel can be mapped.
- Cons - Reliant on manifold for even distribution to the cylinders. Little more complcated than a carb setup.
Multiport Injection - Pros - Fully adjustable, can adjust individual cylinders, computer controlled to adapt to the enviroment, can be used in any application.
- Cons - Difficult to setup, lots of wiring, expensive, and requires a laptop or computer connection to properly tune it (not sure why this is a con, but someone on here thinks it is).
There now both questions in the original post have bee answered as simply as they can be.
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I don't know anything about it, but from the pictures it looks decent. My concern is the frame rails that he said were rust free.
The Frame rails don't look right. They look thin and weak for something with that much power.
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I still dont know which one is better alltought they still might snap in a case of too much power and torque. But the one from zraceparts looks alot more better and heavy duty craftsmanship.
The biggest thing is to really test it. If someone would have to run coilovers one of those arms, either one and all the new bushings. I think that would be only way to compare them.
I think you're right. I guess all the above manufactures should donate their products to me for testing....lol
That's horrible. Tell me it's photo chopped.
Taillight won't turn off, draining battery...
in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
Posted
That's not how the Z brake light switch works...Well ok hard to word this right. That is how it works however the plunger is part of the switch and doesn't come out unless you've broken the switch itself. What he had was a missing bump stop on the pedal arm. They get old and dry rot and fall apart then you have a hole in the pedal arm that the plunger slides through. I don't know why they did it that way, but I went to Advance and picked up a pack of various sized door bump stops and found one that fit. It's a little loose, but still works.