Wondering Nomad

I like to reach out and touch stuff with my 308. Ruger 10/22 I also like to sail.

The Griffin part number from my initial post should be that exact radiator. At least that's what I found after you send me those pictures a few weeks ago.

Those are all nice but I need a single stage paint that can be colorsanded. No metallics. The latest possibility comes from Triumph...Sunset Red. It may be too red though. I'll have to stop by and check it out. Graphite might not be bad either.

My plan is to cut 5 1 1/2" holes in an "X" pattern in the bottom of my stock tank. I'll then weld an 8"x8" sump that is 1" deep at the port end and tapers to 1/4" at the front end. I figure this should work for my needs. But I need to find the sump...there's the problem.

Doesn't the AZ radiator have in/out on different sides?

I stopped in and spoke with my paint guy today and he said we can just find the base color that I want and then we'll add some pearl to it. We'll see how it looks on some test panels before he sprays the entire car. Here it was Here it is now with shaved side markers, badges, hatch lock, and other misc. items. They're probably going to shave the drip rails next week.

Did you run into any issues when you mounted it?

Since I do not have the tools, shop, or skills to create my own, does anybody know where I might find a sump that I can attach to my stock tank? I'd like something with two -AN6 or -AN8 outlets. The sumps for sale from Summit are too large.Any ideas?

BEWARE! Paint noob question to follow. What would happen if I put down a base coat of black and then two coats of really dark red? The top ren coat would then be sanded down. Would this get mw where I'm trying to go?

Which radiator do you think is better for an RB26 swap? Northern Radiator 24 X 19 1 1/2" tubes $328 or Griffin Radiator 24 X 19 1 1/4" tubes $280 Or the Ron Davis radiator from McKinney Motorsports. I think it's over $400. It's time to start finding some of the major components for my swap.

Time to get back to the gym. The local Bally's wants $75 down and $37/month for 36 months. Then it's $19/mo from there on out. Is this a good deal?What's everyone paying for their monthly membership?

I'm a financial analyst by trade so it would be illegal if I didn't track my build on a spreadsheet. Here's how I had it set up: 1st Tab: All restoration items by area. I had every major body area broken down into sections and then subdivided into components. IE: Under hood - every rubber grommet, cushion, pad, etc. I then had columns that corresponded to MSA, Blach Dragon, Nissan, etc so that I could compare prices. 2nd Tab: Major component groups. Similar to tab 1 but now I bre4akdown which components will be upgraded and which will need refurbishment. I then put in columns for supplier, part number, and price. The part numbers are all hyperlinked to the lowest priced website. 3rd tab: Build schedule. This is a timeline summary of what needs to be completed and in what order. I could get super anal about this and put it into MS project but I think that would be taking this too far. I've also saved numerous pictures as examples of what I'd like to do to the car. The scariest thing is looking at the totals at the bottom of each sheet. None is scarier than the total below the BR26 build section. I may have a problem.

Thanks for the tip. I'll talk to my paint guy about that. I'm trying to go for a really deep dark red. It could easily be accomplished if I spend an extra $1,500 for the metallic.

I hope you have better luck than I did. I dropped my car off on February 20th for what I was told would be a three week job. It's now May 2nd and my car still sits in pieces. The windows are out and it's been sanded down somewhat but it still needs a couple days of body prep before paint. Hopefully they'll get it back to me before Christmas. The guy was supposed to have paint samples for me two months ago.

Is $180 too much for a pair of Cibie E Code headlights with city lights and H4 ultrapremium bulbs? I'd like to find some new headlights and these seem to be some of the best. This is the source of the prices. Clear Corners

I need help finding a single stage paint code. Does anyone know of a code for a color that looks like "black cherry"? I'm looking for a really dark red, it should appear almost black at night?

I was at the show today and the most impressive thing was the 2000 Roadster with the black top motor. There were way too many Z32s for my taste. Lots of what seemed like stock and near stock S30s. I was one of a number Hybrid Z members carying around their jackets with their new patch on it because it was so damn hot. Should have put it on a hat.

I found a 91 Q45 at the local yard with the R200 still in it. Is there anything special I should know about the removal or is it pretty straight forwrd? There seems to be a lot more to remove to get it out than what you would do on a Z. Just trying to figure out if the price is worth my trouble.

Not to hijack the tread but...Summit has all kinds of parts. If you can find the manufacturer's part number and Summit carries their line, they can probably get the part for a reasonable price. They'll drop ship items not normally carried in stock.

Ditto.

Could I just swap in an entire 280ZXT CV rear-end? The $100 it would cost fromthe yard is considerably cheaper than any other option. Through in another $100 for service and I'm still way ahead, aren't I?

Let me preface this by saying I searched already. At what power level do billet parts become necessary? I'm in the process of putting together a drivetrain and don't know if I necessarily need to buy billet adapters. I'm looking at a 300-400 HP RB26DETT with a Q45 R200 in my 72'. Do I need billet 5 lug hubs and billet differential adapters? Could I just run the standard steel adapters at that power level?

I think I'll do mine up like this. Sans Stripes. Vintage Racing Jacket

I just got my patch. Thanks Mat, it looks great. Your hand must be numb from addressing all those envelopes.

I don't want to debate this since I'm by no means an expert on either of these motors. That being said... Once you start to reach those kinds of HP figures on an L28, don't you need to start upgrading the internals? It would seem to me that you need to start looking at forged components at around 400HP. I could be totally wrong though. And if you do need to change to forged rods & pistons, you're then looking at another $2K in parts.