jimzdat

Check with Craig Borden-- www.zcarcreations.com He used to sell a kit that replaced those fuse blocks with a "maxi-fuse" block; don't know if he ever started selling them again, but he had a picture and instructions on his site. Jim

Here's a couple of pics from zhome.com, showing a little more detail about the original scoop: Jim

OK, as mentioned in another thread--there was an old NOS hood scoop up on ebay Hood Scoop Well, I won the thing, and I remember that there was some interest in possibly getting a mold made of it. I am willing to loan it out for the purpose of getting a mold done, but I won't just send it around to anyone who wants it---I'm looking for someone who knows what they are doing, so it doesn't get screwed up, and will be able to then turn out quality repros for those of you who may want one.] So, is there anyone here who can make said mold, or suggest who I might contact about getting this done? I figure it's the least I can do, since these are getting hard to find. Jim

After reading a bunch of posts about installing Autometer gauges, but having nowhere to put a voltmeter, I decided that I would probably do it on my car too--but I have found a solution other than gauge pods, or the lighter plug mounted ones--my new radar detector (Escort Passport 8500) has a voltmeter function, so while you're cruising down the road, you have a nice digital voltmeter hanging on the windshield. They are a little pricey (~$250 on ebay) but I don't know how that compares to the other ones people were looking at. And of course, this doesn't help you people that live in VA or DC--sorry Jim

Jon, sounds like it may be a hole for a dipstick tube--Ford had a habit of putting the tube in different places for different cars--the last time I came across one of those situations, the engine (actually the timing cover) came with a tapered plug that you could just drive into the hole and forget about--might want to check with your local machine shop and see if they have one available Jim

Well, if you want to take a look at mine, and go with that style (requires a large garage) here's some of the measurements: (all metals listed are 1/4" thick) Base of rotisseries: 2'x 4'--3" angle iron Uprights: 3" C-channel Casters: 6" Pivot point: 1-1/4" Galvanized steel pipe, app 18" long Mine also has a chunk of diamond plate to mount the uprights--we changed that part of the design on the one built for CBorden--just used more 3" angle iron For the rotating parts (that attach to the car): 3" angle iron, cut as needed to allow bolting to car--mine attach to the "towhook" mounting points in the rear, and to the surface where the bumper shocks mount in the front (I have a 76) Cross piece: 3" C-channel--about 3' long for the rear, 30" for the front Pivot rod: 1" galvanized pipe, with a floor flange welded to one end, then centered on cross piece (NOTE: the crosspiece for the rear is not centered on the car, so don't just measure for the middle of that piece--mount it on the car and then find the center) I drilled holes thru the pivot rods & uprights to drop a bolt in so I can hold it fairly level or lock it in at 90 degrees to each side Your pivot point centerline needs to be about 39-40" off the ground so you don't hit the floor with the car. The one you see on my site (below) is our "prototype"--made with the above specs. The second one we made (sold to cborden) had a couple of changes: -used 4" box tube for uprights and "cross pieces" -eliminated diamond plate, used 3" angle iron across the base instead -used smaller casters for greater stability (make sure you adjust height of uprights accordingly) This kinda shows the rear assembly: This shows how far the car can be rolled to either side: If I get a chance, I'll try and get more (detailed) pics put up, if anyone is interested in building one of these behemoths As said before--this thing is probably WAAAYY over-engineered, but I'd rather have overdone it than have the thing fall on me, or possibly on someone who bought one from me--call it covering my butt. Hope this helps, Jim

Wagz--I also built my own rotisserie; but unlike Tim, mine was not done cheaply--I kinda over-engineered the thing. (Check out pics on my site--link below) If you know someone that can help you with the welding, you can probably pick it up pretty quick--a little practice can go a long way. If you like, I can write up the plans/measurements/materials that I used for mine, and you can go from there. Good luck on your project Jim

Cool! Thanks for that bit of info--I'll ave to go check them out

Having owned a 74, 75 & 76 2+2 Z, I can assure your that yes, the quarter windows do open--the latching mechanism is the same on all three (kind of like the latch on side windows in a full size van, if you can visualize those) BUT--the "hinge" design was changed between 74 & 75--the entire "pillar" between the door and that quarter window was changed, and with it went the hinge design-might want to try and find both, and see what works best for you. Both the door glass and the quarter window are different on a 2+2, and I think the hatch glass might even be bigger, but not positive. The quarter glass is also a totally different shape. You may be able to take apart the frame of a 2+2 quarter window ad somehow adapt it to a 2-seater, but it's probably not gonna be fun. Good luck, Jim

Gotcha beat, Lone--that's more than I paid for my first 3 Z cars-COMBINED

OK, all this info so far is great, but in my roamings online at the various shops mentioned, I have yet to see a kit that will work for the 2+2 models--anyone seen such a beast, or should I just warm up the ol' welder and order a bunch of tubing? I have considered ordering the coupe kit, just so I can get the basic parts (downtubes by dash, might be able to use some of the other parts, who knows) Jim

Danno--Got the diagram in today's mail--looks great! Thanks for your help, I owe ya one... Jim

Dan--you should have email by now--Thanks! Kevin--Dan's gonna go ahead and send one out--thanks for taking the time to respond, though--don't want you guys to duplicate efforts Jim [ October 30, 2001: Message edited by: jimzdat ]

Mainly what I need is the big fold-out diagram that was in the back of the book--that will give me enough to go by. If it's easier for you, just xerox the thing, and I can tape it back together--I'll email you my snail-mail address off forum later today Thanks, Jim

Thanks, Kevin--I'd appreciate it if you could do that. I contemplated getting the FSM on CD for it, but I already have electronic versions of the FSM's for 76 & 78--I figure most of the info is relevant enough, I just need that diagram, which I can't justify paying that much for. Heck I'd even deal with photocopies, as long as I could read 'em. Just let me know what I owe ya for your time, Thanks again, Jim

I'm trying to trace some gremlins on my car, and can't for the life of me trace that god-awful diagram that the haynes gives you, and I never got a FSM for the '74. Anyone out there have a GOOD copy of the wiring diagram for a 260, manual trans, that they would be willing to share? Thanks, Jim

Well, you can either learn how to weld, or for the right price, and about 3 weeks of waiting, you can have one built for you--just like Craig did.(easy for you considering how close you are) Email me off-forum for more details if interested.

Actually, Dewzenol-that is the exhaust--eventually moved it out of the garage though--I have a 26' trailer sitting beside the house that is slowly filling up with Z components--makes it easy to hide all that stuff

I didn't have to do anything special to drop the L28 into the 260--the heads on most of the later motors are "dual-drilled"--they will accept both carbs or FI-I like the L28 simply because it's the larger motor, and is more towards the end of the R&D scale--they got the bugs worked out I guess you could say. From all outward appearances, the L24, 26 & 28 look alike--the only way to be sure is to check the number stamping on the block--my 260 had an L28 in it when I got it--I just happened to have a spare I could rebuild while still driving the car-then I just swapped the motors one nite at work. It is very possible to do a "sleeper"--just keep in mind that some mods (exhaust especially) can give it away. My 280Z looked like just your everyday beater, but with 2.5" exhaust, header, triple webers and a tall cam, it wasn't exactly fooling anyone

>My questions are, does it use the same motor mounts of the stock 240z engine? Yep--all the L motors used the same mounts (at least the first generation Zs-not sure about the ZXs) >Do you need any other special parts for the efi engine to make it run? You will need all the induction stuff (AFM, Hoses, Filter, etc) and also the wiring harness and computer (drivers side kick panel)--there are also a bunch of relays scattered throughout the car you will need. You will also need the high pressure fuel pump that FI cars used, and possibly the fuel tank (not sure, but they might be different) >how do you wire it up? The EFI harness is easy--it has two large wires that connect to the battery (along with fusible links) and the rest of the harness connects to the engine (mostly--see reference above to scattered relays) >Is it worth doing? Depends--how enthused are you by retro-fitting wiring into a car that never had it before? Why exactly do you want to do it? The stock motor can be tweaked fairly easily, while the FI system has it's limitations (not that easy to hop up without spending $$$) >Or if I use the stock engine, what mods can I do to the engine without totally distroying the engine, besides boring the cylinder,new heads, and carbs? There is actually quite a bit you can do--it just depends on how much you want to spend (isn't that true of all projects though?) You can bore it out, but personally, I'd just look for a L28 motor and start there--no need to bore it then-you can add an earlier head if you want, put a different cam in, etc. I am running a L28 in my 260, along with early SU carbs (had them rebushed by ZTherapy)--I just got done rebuilding teh engine, and it's running great. I'm sure there are other mods out there, but I don't know of all of them. Good luck on your project, Jim

For those that are interested in different designs, check out my homepage (link below)--the one you see there was our basic "prototype"--the one that Craig got is even beefier, and sits on slightly smaller casters for greater stability. The jacks are a good idea, but if you have the right pivot height to begin with, you shouldn't need em--I think a lot of the rotisseries out there with adjustable height are "universal"--you adapt to fit any vehicle. The one's I've done are specifically for a Z (later model to be exact)--so I wasn't too worried about adjustable height. Just more input for the conversation, Jim

Been there, tried that--The tank off of a 75-76 will fit in a 260, not sure about a 240--a 77-78 tank won't fit--different filler neck size, and everything (hose connections, sending unit) is in a different place

Aspen--a lot of the regs will change depending on where in WA you live even (BTW, Davy--check subject line ) I know there are certain areas around Seattle that are exempt, but if you go across the street, it changes. Check with one of the state inspection stations (should be in phone book, or closest licensing office should know)--I know when I registered my 74 up there, I had to get it inspected, and the guy was nice enough to compliment me on the carb conversion I had done--since I was exempt, it didn't matter HTH, Jim--(originally from WA)

Hey Mike-did you get those emblems I shipped out to ya? Just want to make sure that USPS didn't manage to lose the darn things Jim

Turn your steering wheel all the way to lock, then stick your head as far into the fenderweel as you can--there should be 4 phillips head screws in there--pull those, and the whole "bucket" comes out, then you can remove the trim ring and pull the bulb. **Helpful hint--take one of the 4 screws to a decent hardware store and get some metric hex-head bolts to put in there--makes next time alot easier Jim