Jump to content
HybridZ

BWRex

Members
  • Posts

    202
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by BWRex

  1. boy I feel like an idiot!:banghead: ,I suppose I should do a little more research.I was just saying for arguments sake,for heavy duty uses,suspension,motor mount bolts,etc.if you go with standard sizes grade 8,metric grade 10.9 minimum.say fender bolts,window washer bottle bracket,etc stainless would be ok.I've always thought that was a basic standard to go by.Question;does coarse thread have any strength pros or cons against fine threads?

  2. Me too. I got the TPI swap manual as well.Good info,covers the basics,not as in depth as I thought would be.Wish there was a different manual to compare it to....but searching the links,and photos on HybridZ fills the blanks.Anyway couple bucks cheaper at Summit.Might as well order a fuel cell,and slotted brake rotors,and braided lines,and new gauges,oh yea,and seat covers,and headers,and a water pump,and............;)Good luck with the swap!

  3. yea it shouldn't be too difficult.Are you going to get them machined?I wonder if there would be an extra set laying around when you finish with your calculations.........Lol!Let me know how they turn out.I was thinking aluminum,2 piece,2 'stepped',Inner dia.whatever the Outer dia.of the sleeve is,Outer dia 5/8 for insertion into the heim,stepping up a larger size to hold it in place.Obviously each side would be of different lengths,just a thought.

  4. Actually I got the u bracket from chassisshop.com,I had to enlarge the side holes to accomodate the 5/8 bolt.The width was dead on with a couple of hardened 5/8 washers for spacers in between.Couldn't have worked out any better.I do have a question however about the adj. lower control arm spacers.Isn't one longer than the other to center the wheel in the wheelwell?Any crossmember bushing mesurements would be appreciated.

  5. I used 240hoke's design,and fabbed the feet roaching out 2 $$ drill bits and a couple few grinding wheels.That 3/8 cold rolled steel is some strong stuff!I just took 2in.x10inx3/8 cold rolled steel,cut it in half,drilled the holes,cut out one,and used it as the template for the other.The T/C's are twice as heavy,and 3x beefier than the stock ones easily.I should leave Santa some cookies and a six-pack,and maybe they'll be installed Christmas morning....

  6. I've got a 71 240Z with 1.5 inch sectioned front struts w/ illuminas,200 lbs.front springs,strut spacers,TPI 350 JTR mounts.I'd like some opinions on setup.In the JTR manual,should I use the framerail/crossmember spacers,(page2-6)strut spacers(page16-4),and drill the raised holes in the crossmember(bumpsteer mod page 16-8 )with the lowered struts?or since I sectioned,can I get away with(or without)framerail spacers and/or strut spacers?I'd rather not drill new holes in the crossmember if I can help it.Any configurations,pics,or advise would be greatly appreciated!

  7. I'm sure you've heard of the Whileimatit bug.It bit me hard after visiting this site.It's cool though,I wouldn't have had solid subframe connectors,sectioned struts w/coilovers,and maybe even a TPI V8 that's going in my 240 soon.A project like this is overwhelming,I'm sure for the beginner as well as the experienced,but if you can see yourself smoking a GT,TA,or any of the assorted ricers,the time and the effort will be well worth it,and I was a proud owner of a built 1987 Pontaic GTA for 11years!:redface:I think other than money, the secret is hard work and careful planning.Anyway,it's 25 degrees outside and I'm going to fire off the portable heater in the garage and 'put in a couple hours'.Good luck and stick with it!:rockon:

  8. I agree with Mikelly.I used.125 thick (little overkill)but they are super strong.Also if your floorpans aren't too rusty like mine,take some careful measurements and cut the original floorpan and tack them in.On the underside,I used 90 degree prebent strips,like an L,and welded one side to the subframe connector,one side to the floorpan,the entire length each side of the connector.Again probably overkill,but they aren't going anywere,I got to practice my welding skills,and they sealed up any gaps.

  9. I'm interested in some opinions and comparisons too.Would it be reasonable to get a 'standard T-5,take it to a reputable trans shop,and have some of those'beefier'parts installed on the rebuild?if you had the 3 T-5's sitting in front of you,what are the telltale differences?

  10. I'm almost at the stage for rim selection,and I was going to look into mounting the GTA style wheel.16x8.1987-1992.I believe these are the same bolt pattern as the IROC rims from the Camaro.Anyone have any advise as to the hub adapters to make this work?Ive got sectioned (1.5 inches)strut tubes,coilovers with illuminas,and the Toyota front brake upgrade.Help would be appreciated immensly!

×
×
  • Create New...