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HybridZ

BWRex

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Posts posted by BWRex

  1. Well,I'm glad I'm not the only one to section too short!:icon56: On my second pair too!The first pair I thought I'd take them to a race shop to get TIG welded.(posted about that a while ago)They F-ed them up.Sourced a second pair,used a chop saw,and cut them short.Ended up having a machine shop fab up a set of gland nuts with extra threads for the low,low,ripoff of 200.00 for 2!!!:shock: They're pretty and extremely beefy,but you'll never see them,and I'm going to use a pipecutter and measure 3 times before I do the rears........

  2. That battery tray does look remarkably clean(a true Z prone rust area),and a heck of alot more there than mine!:icon56: Depending on what you're doing to the Z,(daily driver,total resto,srip it and race it,etc.)I'd look into getting the entire car dipped or media blasted.I've been blasting mine in sections w/ a portable that seems to work pretty good.All in all from the photos,it seems you've got a pretty solid one......bastard!:mrgreen: Good find!:2thumbs:

  3. When can me and my Z(I should say garage scattered with Z parts!)move in?J/K! Nice spread.

    Not to hyjack,but I noticed your Z with the fuel cell photos and was wondering if you've got any info on your cell,fuel pump,delivery system,etc.Also,any photos from underneath showing your cell framework possibly?Digging the cap location as well.Nice job!PM me if you've got a minute,thanks! Brett

  4. Very cool Austin,I'm glad you didn't end up painting the CF hood!Looks killer.

    For all you HybridZ newbies,this Z is one of most badass of them out there.The outside of it looks hot,but the components you don't see in those photos makes it even more impressive.Props!:2thumbs:

     

    I posted about your front suspension setup(adj. LCA's,T/C's,etc.running similar setup)a while back,and was wondering how it was all working out for you.You didn't have the road time on it back then,so If possible let me know.Pro's,con's,opinions?

    Once again,looks sweeeeet!:rockon:

  5. I suppose it really boils down to how attached you are to your Z.

     

    ANYTHING can be fixed,it just depends on the level of dedication you have as an individual.I agree with the guys on this thread,the shell is not the greatest,the prior craftmanship is a little shoddy,and there are Z shells out there that may be a little rusty,but haven't been in a frame tweaking wreck.So I'm with them on that,but on the other hand,with hard work,careful planning,triple checking measurements,and the ability to tackle such a big project,(just look at Mull's video collection)the gratification of building a car literally from the ground up,IMO would outweigh tenfold.

     

    Plus, I'd rather see someone bringing a Z back from the dead,than a junkyard car crusher squeezing the life out of it.................

  6. I'm going with the TPI for a couple of reasons.I was an 11 year owner of an '87 GTA,just plain love the cars,The TPI from around 2200-4200 RPM gives quite a kick in the pants(when dialed in,and running cool),and IMO,one of the coolest looking engines out there.My GTA weighed in at a hair over 3700 lbs.,can't wait to hit the mid powerband in my Z that's probably 1300 lbs. lighter!:burnout: :burnout: :burnout:

  7. If possible,I would start with taking some precise measurements,and making certain your frame isn't out of alignment.(The last thing you want is your Z doglegging down the road!)Most good body shops have frame racks that they use for fixing,aligning,etc. damaged frames.Yours took a pretty hard hit to take that kind of damage,so IMO,that's where I would start.I'd then add some 'Pete Paraska' style subframe connectors,straighten all of your floor pan steel,etc.the best you can,and weld them to the subframe connectors.A bit of work,the 'right' way to do it(depending on who you ask)with the strength added and the piece of mind, you can't lose.

  8. JMortensen,I like that idea,I noticed 240Hoke 'grooved' the front rear wheelwell to possibly add strength to the mainbar.I like how the mainbar is 1/2 'sunk' into the rocker.I wanted my mainbar pad to tie in the SFC,rear frame,and rocker and box in from underneath.Does your pad tie into the perpendicular rear frame?BTW,What dia. is your mainbar?Thickness?

     

    Tube,Did you fab box steel to the inner rocker?Along the lines of what I was thinking.I'm digging that idea,so post a couple more photos if you have them of front and rear mounting,steel thickness,etc....

  9. I wish I had thought of strengthening the rockers before I welded in my roll bar. In retrospect I think the rockers are more important than the SFCs. Just think, with the rocker design, Nissan put full tubular frames down both sides of the car and they attach in right at major structural spots in the front and rear. They stopped the floor rail before it got connected to the rear. It's obvious which one they thought was more important.

     

    I was going to attach my doorbars from the main hoop,to the pads by your feet,and also weld these doorbars to the front interior sides of the inside rockers,instead of to just the floor pads.Should make this section stronger.I agree with the above,I wonder if they were trying to conserve on steel,or if the rockers absorb 90%of the flex.I know people here have welded tubular bars between the inner and outer rocker panels,but in terms of photos,haven't found any.I do think Pete's style helps with structural integrity,but I would like some more info or a link on the rocker method.....

  10. BWRex and Mikelly - I've wondered how Pete's design affects your feet and using the pedals with the hump in the middle - what's your guy's experience? Also, did his dimensions work exactly as printed or due to tolerances of different cars did you have to tweak them a lot to fit?

     

     

     

    I bought the steel stock,used his basic premise,took a million measurements,and custom cut my own angles and mounting points to fit.I'm sure Pete's angles are right there,but some people like to do it the hard way.....:icon56:

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