deMideon

For me it was for the larger fuel line, the stock tank just didn't have a large enough pipe. I had a 525hp engine though, so I needed it. I guess it depends on how much hp you'll expect to put out.

I have another question for you.... my engine should be putting out around 500 hp, I will be using it on the street, a lot all sorts of driving, hwy, in town stop and go all of it. I have a very good radiator and electric fan. I also have Canfield heads (aluminum), is it safe to use the Mr Gasket ultra-seal head gaskets (5801) ... they do not have the steam holes?

That's true.. sorry about that... Yes I do... canfield pocket ported heads, 11.5:1, Vic jr intake, block hugger headers, dual 2 1/2 in exhaust, So it sounds like it will work well! Thank you!!!

If you don't mind... what do you think of the Isky 20154 cam?

Damn.. I will definitely follow your advice!! Thank you!!!

I can understand that... Do you have any recommendations? Also in going from a solid lifter to a hyd lifter.. what differences in performance do you think I might see? Thank you again!!

Hey grumpy! here is my setup: SBC 377 - 0 deck - 6 inch rods KB194 pistons Canfield heads - 59.2 cc Crane cam 114691 aluminum flywheel I have to replace the cam (screwed up a lobe), this cam is no longer available, I am thinking about going with a Summit K1108 hyd instead. What do you think of this cam? Thank you very much!!!

Ok... that's driving it... what about building an engine specifically for fuel mileage. Would a high compression engine more efficiently use the available fuel air provided? What would the best way to build a very high fuel mileage engine?

Ok now I am starting to get really curious about what can make a gas engine more efficient... I would seem to me that weight of course is a factor, But doesn't making an engine more efficient, also involve modifying it to in essence to produce more power, but then restrict the amount of air / fuel available. Meaning keeping the air fuel mixture just on the lean side and also not allowing max acceleration, so if using a carb, setting up a single barrel on it? Am I missing things? Would that make much higher mileage?

I'm having a problem finding a pilot bearing that will work for me and I wanted to see if anyone has any ideas... I have an SBC 400 with and internally balanced crank, and am using a T-56 trans with a Wier bell housing. I was getting ready to reassemble it and was checking the pilot bearing and found that it was too short. Meaning the beginning of the pilot bearing is even with where the bell housing mounts and the end of the T-56 input shaft is also even with the bell housing. So it means that when I put them together the input shaft is too short to go into the pilot bearing. I am using a bearing for an 82 Camaro. So I need a bearing that is longer. Any ideas? If necessary I am thinking about getting another bearing, cutting off a small amount and using it as a spacer, but I would rather have one that is one piece. Thanks!

Well I guess I haven't visited my photos in a long time! Try this one, there are only a couple of pictures of the fuel cell and mounting in there though. http://www.flickr.com/photos/demideon/

I did this on my 280Z... I put the fuel cell immediately behind the diff and the battery on the passenger side right next to the fuel cell. The only drawback I didn't really consider is that I now don't have room for a dual exhaust on the passenger side!

I used the Weir kit and am extremely happy with it as well. I had a few reasons to do so, the stock slave sucks in my opinion, bad placement and I really didn't like the way the hoses hook up. Also I didn't want to use the pull type clutch, expensive and not many choices for flywheel clutch combinations. The Weir kit is the standard push type and uses a hydraulic throwout bearing. I love it! works better than anything I have used so far!

Yeah that's true there is that! I just wasn't sure if there was an amount of time I could have it sit and be ok.

It's been in the garage the whole time... John, my only issue is that it's a 15 gallon fuel cell and I have at least 10 gallons in it... I don't have enough gas cans to hold that much. If I would have to, I would drain some, find out where I can dispose of it, and then repeat... lol!

While I don't think I would ever do it again, I rewired my 280 and have everything working except the backup lights and horn (just haven't bothered yet), the wipers were the biggest pain since I had to recycle the original wiper harness to get it to work!

How long can gasoline sit in a fuel cell without going bad? I've been on "vacation" for 9 months (got laid off) and my sbc 400 needs sleeved so now that I have a job again I can afford to have the engine put back together! Yippee!! Maybe I can even keep it together for longer than 3 months this time. LOL! But the gas has been sitting there all this time, I figure I should drain it, but I have no easy way to do it and dispose of it properly, so I though I would ask! Thanks!

Does anone know if when you put sleeves in a 400 if you can bore the sleeves to 40 over? My machinest has never done it (bored a sleeve that far) so is unsure if it is ok to.

Great thread... I'm learning a lot! (At least I think so).... Ok, so what it sounds like is we could eliminate either the opening y or the opening above y without changing the amount of air flowing through the radiator... I would think that at lower speeds the fan (if ya have a good one), would still pull enough air through the radiator, correct? So if we were to eliminate the opening y, x would go all the way up to the next opening ( which would then become y I suppose), and it should at that point, while not nessesarily contibuting to more downforce, it will cause more air to flow over the car instead of bunching up in front of the radiator, therby lowering the cars coefficient. Or am I way off here?

Hmmm... just to make sure I understand, in the picture, the diffuser is the piece in front of x. Is that correct? I have always increased x to increase downforce (which gets ya in trouble with curbs etc..). Does anone know the relationship between the length of the diffuser (out from x), and the length of x to downforce? I would like to be able to reduce x somewhat and am not sure what would be the optimum lengths. If you reduce x and add a diffuser what will happen to the downforce? Thanks!

Yep... it's amazing how expensive their equipment is. The machinest I use owns his own shop so while he has a lot of equipment, the things that wouldn't get used as much he doesn't have.

Well, that's good to know. Thank you! my machine shop will have to get it sent out to get it done properly since I know he doesn't have magnaflux equipment. I should probably have the walls checked in the other cylinders as well, before I do it to see if I need any more sleeves.

Ok a little background. I have a sbc 400 block bored 40 over and this is the second time I have had the number 8 cylinder develope pin holes into the water jacket. So I am obviously pushing the blocks too far. So what I wanted to find out is if I have the #8 cyklinder sleeved are there any drawbacks? I have heard that the sleeve runs hotter. Is it significant? Do you guys think this is a workable solution?

This will be great! I will be donating at the end of the month... I was curious if you know, are they going to be using a car with the area in front of the radiator closed in to direct the air through the radiator or will it be open?

Not at all.. I cut it after the bolts for the control arms and welded a piece over the opening to add strength. It works great! bjhines... I would think the Ron Tyler mount reinforces the tunnel.