Racin_Jason

I agree. It has to run on 92..87 or 89 would be better but I dont have the money to design the engine to a specific compression here so I will take ANY compression that will get the power well into the 300's and run on ANY octane that flows from a Arco pump Jason

Mike, He's might be interested if they can get here fairly cheaply. I cannot gurantee a sale by any means..im just relaying his words.

I have some new possible options. I might be able to get my hands on a set of camel-hump heads w/2.02's and 63cc chambers. Im not sure if my engine would still run on pumpgas with the compression bump..but i would imagine these heads with a cam swap would be into the 300's for HP. Opinions? I have another friend trying to sell me some 63cc heads that are either 1.94 or 2.02 (cant remember) valved and they have been ported all the way through the intake. Would a regular head with 63cc and a cam swap get me well up into the 300's on HP? My current heads being 74cc 624's. Im determined to learn how to get atleast close to 350HP or more..and do it on the CHEAP. I would really appreciate some help on this one! Jason

Mike, What would shipping be to get those to San Diego,CA? My father-in-law might be interested. Jason

Welcome to the site! I'm new aswell but I assure you this is a great bunch of people with a wealth of knowledge on these cars. I'll leave the questions to someone more familiar with the later L-6's. Enjoy your stay, Jason

Hi Sean Ok well Im alittle confused by the casting numbers you list here. First of all the casting number is GM's identifying system for the heads and its usually located in the center/top of the head (under the valvecover). The 3 numbers that are thrown around, like 186, are the last three digits of the number and are the common identifyer among car guys. You can go here and have a look to see how these numbers tell you what you are getting.. http://www.ammotorsports.com/chvheads.htm Now I couldnt find EITHER of the numbers you listed..but If the 168 is actually a 186 'HUMP' head then those were some of the better ones. They are listed as having 2.02I and 160E valves with a 63cc chamber. These 'camel-hump' heads can support some decent HP numbers. If they are 186 'NON-humps' then they have the smaller 1.94" intake but still have the 63cc chamber. I can't find anything close to "220" casts. One thing I can tell you tho is if you have 186's on there now (with 63cc chamber) and go to the used heads (with a 72cc chamber)..you will be losing compression and HP for sure. Im gonna guess that the heads he's selling aren't as good as your cracked heads..that is if I decoded all the wrong info here correctly and they ARE indeed camelhump's with 63cc chambers. But the "220's" might very well be a comparable head..but Ive never heard of them and cant find any data on them. Hope this helps alittle.. Jason [This message has been edited by Racin_Jason (edited March 12, 2001).]

No, the car has sat for over a year now (open headers+cops=sit for a year). Im sure its in need of a tuneup but I'd like to learn to do it myself.

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The 240 I just bought has a cute little booster behind the master cylinder..but someone just told me that the early Z's didnt have power brakes as an option..is this true? It sure looks like a small power booster to me and it has a hose hanging off of it that looks like a vacuum line. The previous owner said it "stopped on a dime". I find this amazing considering the front disks are toasted. How well do the stock brakes (in GOOD condition) stop a mild V8 Zcar? Are they safe and predictable?

I've read different specs here and there on the 240's system and Im looking for da facts. What size is the feed line and where is it routed? I've seen mention of return line(s) being stock on these cars?? If so what size are they? Can the stock feed line support a mild 350 with a deadhead regulator? How about alittle more than mild? Are the pickups in the stock tank easily uncovered from hard acceration? Thanks for any help here, jason

Hi gang I have "mystery 350" that is low power and mild. It came with my Camaro and I have NO clue what cam, compression or HP it has. I DO know that it wasn't very quick in 3600+ lb. Camaro, it runs on 87 octane, I dont think it makes power past 5000 revs, it is SLOW to rev even in nuetral but its proven reliable. My racer instinct tells me to grab some Vortec heads and recam it, or 383 it!...but I really DONT know what to expect from the car with this 350 as it is. Truth be told my budget is very limited due to my other car being priority. Now I usually find a way to make some extra bucks and I 'could' do some inexpensive mods to the 350, but do i really need them? What do you recommend? This is what is known about the 350 now. 624 heads w/ 1.94's and 76cc chamber cam isnt stock..but is MILD Carter 625cfm Holley Dominator II dual plane mani' compression is low enough for 87 octane HEI dist/ignition power peaks around 4700-5000rpm It runs decent, has some torque, doesnt smoke , stays cool and is very reliable so far. It's going into a 71 240Z with a th350 tranny. I want the car to be quick enough to beat the newer pony's and 'maro's and the emphasis is on being an all around road car..but not great at anything due to the fact that this is gonna be done on a tight budget. I would appreciate any and all opinions on what would be a good route to take. I have no experience with V8Z's and hope those that do can help me decide. Thanks much, Jason ------------------ 71 240Z soon to be 350'd 73 Camaro street/strip car w/490BBC,10-point cage, "budget bully" 2000 F150 on 35's have a look at my toys at http://www.JasonsHobbyShowcase.homestead.com/homepage.html "If speed kills..Im a DANGEROUS GUY!"

Tony, I might be interested in sending some buisness your way. Can you quote me a price for some full length Hooker Comps? Also how about the forementioned headers along with 2 6' sections of 3" pipe? You can answer here if you like or directly at Drag_Race_Nut@hotmail.com. I'm hoping you can discount a fellow member. Thanks much, Jason ------------------ 71 240Z soon to be 350'd 73 Camaro street/strip car w/490BBC,10-point cage, "budget bully" 2000 F150 on 35's have a look at my toys at http://www.JasonsHobbyShowcase.homestead.com/homepage.html "If speed kills..Im a DANGEROUS GUY!"

JohnC I'd like to hear more about the outdoor furniture coatings idea. I have ALOT of tubing to be coated (a full dual 3.5" exhaust w/ mufflers AND the 240Z's system too) and am looking for a cheap way to get it done...that WORKS! The thick coat sounds great...how much is it compared to a comperable exhaust ceramic job? Jason

sounds like a sweet color. Looking forward to the pics! Jason

Ok headerwrap is some nasty stuff and I would recommend avoiding it unless you have money to throw at new headers every now and then. This stuff is notorious for trapping moisture and promoting the rust gremlins to have a buffet on your piping. Coatings are a MUCH better way to go...but it isnt cheap as you know. What the ceramic coatings (and wrap for that matter) do for you is to keep the heat inside the pipe better which promotes efficiency of the header to flow the gasses away from the spent cylinders, they also lower underhood temperature quite a bit and therefore give a lower intake temperature which also promotes more power...and ofcoarse it looks SHWEET! If you have the cash, go for the coating! Its worth it. It also keeps the headers from rusting and they stay looking sharp for along time! Jason

Well I'll tell ya I wouldn't go OVER the 274 if you want to run it to only 6000rpm. With those camel humps and the compression I might try something in the 280's but its gonna go to 7000 easy. The 268 would like that 2300 stall ALOT..anything higher is gonna be alittle mushier off the line but be alot peakier later on..but with such a light car the 268 at that compression would over power street tires REAL easy off a 2300 stall. Clear as mud?..if it were my car Id run it this was..street car? = 268 with a 3.23 or 3.54 rear would be a grunty little SOB that would haul up to 6000+////RACEcar? Id run something in the 280s..maybe even low 290s and swap to a single plane mani and 3.70s out back. The car will leave alittle softer but the 4000-7500 would be BRUTAL with your combo. My $0.02... I just noticed the humps are only 1.94's...my opinion still stands but the RACE setup would be a 'bit' less than BRUTAL..but not much [This message has been edited by Racin_Jason (edited March 09, 2001).]

Thanks everyone I think I got a good deal too. I didn't mention the price at all because this car posted for sale in the Buy/Sell/Trade area here on the forum. One I posted that I went and saw the car..I got TWO peronal emails regarding the shape of the car and what he wanted for it with the engine..sooo I had competition and had to keep my mouth shut. He originally said he would give up the car for $600 but he was taking engine,tranny, rims and ALL the add-ons and leaving the chassis. I ended up paying $525 and getting the cooling system, full fuel system, coated headers with full exhaust system (minus muffler), Tokico cartriges, 5 point harnesses and aftermarket shift light tach. I DID NOT GET THE CENTERLINE's..I didn't want them actually either. Im gonna be grabbing some stockies from the junkyard for the "come pick on me" look. They'll have Nitto's or DR's ofcoarse..lol. I'm looking forward to having a blast with this car and being an active member of HybridZ! I'll be here daily looking for knowledge. Thats again to all who helped guide me through this purchase.. hope I did ya proud Jason

Wow...feathery! Ok then whats the difference in weight between iron heads and aluminum heads? 700r4 and th350?

I'm guessing they would weight about 2650 with an iron headed Chevy 350/auto trans. So whats the scoop on the weight in different configurations of the Chev-V8 240's? Jason

Yay! Well it's a done deal. We just came to an agreement over the phone and Im going to make the deposit and pick up the pink tonight. ..NOW I can talk price. MY 71 240Z cost me $525..V8 ready I feel I got a good price and will be getting alot of fun for a small amount of money. I'm happy and satisfied with what Im getting for the price...and Im happy to be on my way to owning my own Hybrid-Z! Thanks to everyone for all the patience and help. I would have been lost if it wasn't for this great forum and for that Im thankful! Well Im off to pick up the pink on my new toy..woohoo

Welp I just got back from going over the car for an hour uninterrupted and by myself, which helps. I went over the whole car with a magnet and theres only one possible spot on the bottom right of the hatch door that has alot of filler. It does have a slight bit of cancer developing around the back window,but nothing major. I found out it was originally a light metallic green..not the red. I looked in the engine bay very closely and found no rust. I couldnt really see the subframes due to it being so low but from the rest of the car I'd guess they are fine. I checked out the floor on the drivers side only (curb on other side) but it was very solid although alittle bend from misplaced jacks. One plastic headlight bucket has a piece broken off. The hatch weatherstripping is gone to the point that the hatch can be lifted about 1/2" while locked. Hood has dent from carb screw that rusty and a chipped corner thats rusty. Over all the body is pretty straight and I looked at it real close. LOTS of little tiny dents tho (like minor BB size). The sunroof looks factory to me (do they exist?). Its been raining for 3 days and I didnt see a drop inside the car. glass is all perfect. seats are fairly good too. I feel I know the cae well now. Its got ALOT less rust than my Camaro did...lol. It does need alittle work even by my standards but its doable for a first Z-8. I have a price in my head (LOW price) that I'll go up to and if he takes it..its mine. We'll see probably by the end of today Jason

Wow. You all are really making me second guess this purchase. I'm paranoid now about just practically everything about this car. It seems the car is very sub-standard compared to what many of you see available. (thank you for your honesty..thats what i asked for) If there are so many Z's at great prices in SoCA i'd sure like to know where they are. Ive been looking online and in the papers for a month+ now and theres only ONE other one in that time frame that was cheap ($1000..and SOLD). There were a couple others in the 1650-1950 range then they shoot up to 2500+ with a couple at 8000 and 12,500! The $1000 dollar one did look to be in ALITTLE better shape but it had lots of dents and is 6cyl. The reason why this car seems a great way to go for me is because its already converted. Im not scared (much) of doing a conversion..but its costs! The driveshaft,radiator,mounts, speedo cable..etc is $1000+. This whole car isnt even that much and it already has it all. I already have a 350 with a th350 to drop in it..and it has EVERYTHING else it needs to be a cruiser. My train of thought is i could have a 13second car..for alittle over $1000! (Sounds like a miracle to me!) That is the ONLY reason Im even considering doing a Z-8 now because,otherwise,I just couldnt afford it (Camaro+new house=broke). Maybe it would be better for me to just wait and buy a cleaner car and spend more money to convert it..but that kind of money is along way off, and Im not sure I'd even get there (family..kids..)! I'm still going to go have a good long look at this car..and probably buy it as long as i dont find any major cancer or other issues. I honestly ENJOY fixing up cars. I would rebuild the doorpanels and lay new carpet and a dash cap, etc. Its fun and more satisfying to me to watch the car get nicer by my own hand and end up being cheaper with NEW stuff I installed. Also, IMO, it doesnt have to be nice..i think a 'well-used' car has character. I can enjoy it more because im not busy worrying about scratchin this and scuffing that. My opinion...my car The hidden rust worries me the MOST by far. I have no way of knowing exactly whats under that primer (i will take a magnet with me) and the fact that it absorbs moisture isnt reassuring. I figure if it does start to fall apart i can just find another one and slap the drivetrain in it. Anyway to check the health of the brakes? He says the 406 doesn't have enough vacuum for them and it stops poorly. Anyway to verify this IS the problem. Also he is including all the parts for the Toy4x4 brake upgrade too so that will help. I know theres no such thing as a perfect Z..especially in ths price range. I just wish I was getting alittle better vibe from the people who know these cars so well. Oh well, only I can see it and make the decision. I just want to be armed with as much knowledge about the possible issues as possible. Thanks so much for all you help! PLEASE keep posting what to check on/watch out for. This is happening soon and I need to be prepared to do a complete analysis. Racing "Fugly-Z" Jason [This message has been edited by Racin_Jason (edited March 06, 2001).]

Well the deal went through and I will have the option to buy the car on Wed! http://www.jasonshobbyshowcase.homestead.com/240z.html So far i know to check for RUST (hatch area,floor,framerails,under battery) and verify that the sunroof doesnt leak (im going to garden hose it). PLZ warn me of anything that should be looked at. Im worried about function, rust and BIG repair costs...not looks. More info here also http://24.4.88.29/ubb/Forum1/HTML/000597.html Im about to become one of the few, the proud the HYBRID Z OWNERS. BUT i only want to do it IF the car is right for me. Im all ears..help! Jason

Much thanks to everyone (ESPECIALLY Kevin and BLKMGK) for taking the time to respond with all the information. Kevin ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Thanks for the comment on my Camaro. Its been along road fer sure..with no end in sight Just how easy is it (HP needed?) to get a 240z deep into the 12's? Thats what i would like from the car. 700r WOULD be sweet for the car and if i can find a great deal on one (or a 200r) i'll do that. As for a 700r4 in the Camaro..it would take one HELL of a build to handle that engine..let alone on NOS. It's gonna need a 4L80 (th400 for now) The sunroof point you make is a serious concern now. Im still not 100% convinced i should be TOO worried tho. The owner has has been "driving the sh!t out of the thing for 18 months..) with the 406 in it..and it had a built L6/turbo before that. I figure if i cant get it to leak by a direct blast from a pressure nozzle on a garden hose..it wont leak for awhile. I need to find out the things that can "hide" on these cars so i know exactly where to look before laying down the green. I doubt I would get the book you recommend before the decision came down on this car. Thanks again for all your help..it means alot. BLKMGK ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I KNOW the Vega was screamin at 80mph with those tires and those gears! SBC are some tough little motors with alittle thought in the design. The exhaust IS VERY inadequate..especially for a 12.5:1 406 like his. Its 2.5" and KINK bent! I cant believe he gets the power out of it that he does...and get this..he shifts at 8000 RPM!! Unreal. I bet he would gain 30-50HP from pulling that 2.5" cork out of his engine. BUT, i must admit, it did infact run real well all the way to 8-grand. On the price, I think its a good deal. Im not going to post it tho for obvious reasons (Ive got emails about this car..) I would appreciate some Z owners opinions of what would be a good deal on this car. They are alittle more here in CA than most other places,too. Do you share Kevins opinion about the sunroof? Hopefully I can get some more opinions on this car aswell. The more I learn (and QUICK) the better off I'll be. I figure I have until next weekend until I make the decision. That is IF he decides to sell it (long story)..but i think he will. Opinions? What to look for? Shutup and buy it already? Thanks again Jason