Racin_Jason

ok. So do i need the $150 adapters to use this CV setup or can I easily replace my outer flanges (wheel side) with flanges from a CV car? I just dont want to get it all out of there and on the ground only to realize that I dont have the right combo. Jason

Greimann, Is the R200 I got from you a CV only model? I thought you could run halfs OR cv's on the R200's. I have a source for CV outer flanges and I was considering getting these and "dropping it all in there". Not so easy?

Attention Houston, we have a maniac on our hands here...send Darius for intercept! Welcome to the board! With those kinds of numbers,if you truly need that knd of power, you will be wanting subframe connectors and, preferably, a 8-10 point cage that ties into the frame rails front and back. This should keep front to rear chassis rotation at bay. Now hooking up is a whole other deal my friend. If you want to be able to USE this power in drag racing..you should probably be tubbing the car. Also start thinking about converting the rear to a solid axle such as a Ford 9" if you want any time at the track without breakage or hassle from the tech inspectors. These cars are so light that it doesnt take much to shock the tires into a smoking frenzy..even with a MILD smallblock. You are talking about a 383 (torque!) with a supercharger (TORQUE!!). If you just want an insane street car that can burn the balonies at freeway speeds..then flare the car and squeeze the biggest tires in there you can (maybe 295's), BUT, you better know how to DRIVE or you will kill yourself with that kinda of power on radials if you plan on using even 2/3's the engines potential. Before you start the project, make sure you know exactly what you want from the car..and EXACTLY what it takes to get it. Do you want a balls to the wall drag car that can click off 9 second timeslips? If so, you are on the right track, but you have ALOT of work ahead of you to make the car use this engines power effectively. Do you want a FAST street car that can whoop on just about anything that pulls up at the local stoplight? If so, 400HP is MORE than enough for this. 400HP at the crank in a 240Z that hooks up will run an 11 second 1/4 mile. Thats faster than 99.9% of whats on the road..even alot of supercars. You can get by on the independent rear suspension and stock wheel wells too. Alot less money, work and time. Make no bones about it..a 600HP stroker SBC in a Z, with the right chassis, will be a VERY fast drag car! We have a few members with engines in this range. Two are tubbed and run in the 8-9 sec range at the track. The third is a street car you might have seen..owned by Darius. Very modified, very expensive and VERY entertaining to watch on video! If you havent already, you should have a look at his videos. His setup is very similar to what you are talking about. I dont think there isnt a member here that doesnt drool over the sheer power of Darius' car, but knowing what he put into the car to make it do what it does, I kow its out of my price range No matter what your angle and final recipe, theres lots of knowledge here to help you achive your goals. Just set them realistically. Not doing so is the leading reason why project cars never get finished Best of luck!! Jason

Im interested...but I have a question and a concern. ?= HOW MUCH? concern= Im not confortable handin over my CC number to anyone that "might use it if they get enough orders". If they make them, the responses on quality are good, I'll buy. Jason

the vid link didnt work for me

R0N, The PONTIAC

I'm sorry but the red car is freakin FUGLY imo! I think the new Z (which im not particularly found of) looks much better. That red thing looks like a pushtoy. After I got over the toy looks, I focused on the smushed-in rear, the very odd windshield angle to pillar angle 'look' and the "over n under" exhaust outlets. This is just my opinion, so no hostility por favor. But the pictures struck such a chord that I had to express my outlook...and the outlook is YUCK! Jason

anytime! have fun

Hi and welcome aboard! First and foremost, if you plan on doing a V8 conversion, I HIGHLY recommend you purchase the Jags that Run Datsun V8 conversion manual. It can be found at http://www.JagsThatRun.com The manual covers swapping the R200 in place of the R180, aswell as all the other things you will want to do to your 72 to keep it safe and solid with your newfound V8 power. Until then, I can help you with the parts you need. You will need the R200 diff, the curved R200 moustache bar and the curved rear crossmember/brace. You can use the front crossmember you have on your 72 now but you will be flipping it around 180 degrees to use with the R200. The swap, which I am about to do, is fairly straight forward and shouldnt cause much frustration. While you are back there, check to make sure you dont have any zerc fittings on your halfshaft joints. These have been known to weaken the joints enough to cause breakage behind a V8 and should be replaced with Datsun units with NO zerc fittings. Good luck! Jason

I have personally only seen ratios of 3.54 - 4.11 in stock Z applications. However I do recall reading somewhere that one 280Z 2+2 had something like a 3.23?? (Maybe a search on the net could turn up the facts on that one) Now, thats not to say that you cant buy aftermarket ratios lower than this. But, its not to say you CAN either..hehe..Im not sure. Someone will come along with the facts on this one hopefully. Jason

ME LIKEY LINGENFELTERS SIDE DISH...BURNT RICE!! MUST....FINISH....355....Z-CAR MUST....EXPERIENCE....420hp....IN....2500LB....CAR Remember BLazing Saddles? "Mongo LIKE horsepower!"

Pete, I'm alittle late checking in here, but none the less. I know its been a LONG, hard, LONG, testing, LONG, frustrating...LONG road for you and the Z. But, let me tell you, it WAS worth it. Your car is on a higher level that commands a large amount of respect...which you have EARNED. When you add the finishing touches, be sure to enjoy the beauty, performance and compliments atleast as long as it took you to build it. Congradulations on achieving your goal and thanks for all the tips along the way! ENJOY! Jason

lol, you mean I was SUPPOSED to do this?

test

Hehe it just looks weird in the pic. Its actually a polished billet grille like all the rest. And BTW...me LIKES the HARLEY!! You are makin me wanna go get one alittle ahead of schedule! But, alas, the budget wont allow it Take care, Jason

Terry, did you miss my return post? Its 2 up

my sig is flippin out here...test

ROFL..dartboard? Dan? Thats a good question. He has been tied up in shopping for and buying a new house the last few months. I've been giving him his space and dont talk to him much anymore. He just seems to busy and I dont wanna get in the way. I miss him alot tho...alots been done to my car since he has seen it last. As for being faster then Dans, well that comes by default since he SOLD his car I still cant believe he did it so close to its completion..but it was his choice. It was a damn nice ride and i'll miss it! Mine would be faster then his if we raced on a downhill, he didnt get to start it and I chalked his tires Mines not quite done yet Terry, but its getting real close now. Still have to swap out the R200, plumb a new fuel system and do The wiring. Buts its far from the shell it was when I bought it. Just takes time and moulah! So how about you artwork? Whats new on that front? I may be faster..but i'll never be as beautiful The Enigma

Yea I wouldnt attempt to drill out that drain until you washed the tank out a few times ane let it sit out atleast a couple days BOOM!!! I too took out the drain plug yesterday and it looked big enough to run a 3/8" fitting in. Thats plenty for me. If it could supply all the big block super cars such as the 454 LS6 Chevelle...I think my little 355 would be feed just FINE with it. Now to find out which fitting and exactly how big we can get into it. Keep us updated and I'll do the same John. Jason

Hmm, that sounds too easy to pass on.I'll get out there today and verify my tank has it. So, if I were to use the drain plug as a feed..could I use the stock feed line as a RETURN? I wouldnt even have to drop the tank if so! Jason

Well I looked through my trusty Jegs catalog and Im alittle unsure which AN fittings, etc I need to make the new pickup line. So I use a piece of aluminum tubing and I attach it to which type of fitting and how (part number would be nice here). Am I just missing the obvious here or is there a fitting made specifically FOR being mounted in a hole? The idea of using the drain plug (I didnt see one under there..maybe i missed it) sounds easier. I cant think of any drawbacks other then asthetics. Any other comments on this method? Thanks, Jason

Great, thanks much for the input. Thats what i was hoping you would say

.030 over 350 TRW forged flatops (compression 9.2-9.6:1) AFR 195's (stock port/bowl) Perf RPM manifold Comp XE268 shorty hedmans dual 2.5 to single 3" I have a Carter 625 vacuum, elec choke now. I'd like to know what the gains of a edelbrock/carter 750 would be on this engine and if its needed. The 355 is in a 2500Lb 240Z street car that will see rare strip duty. Im assuming vacuum secondaries would be a better choice, but I'd like your opinion on that also. The rest of the combo, if it will help your judgement, is a 700R4, 3.54 gears and a 25-26" tire. Thanks for any input here

Hey gang Today I got under my 71 and realized that the feed and return lines are welded directly into the tank I was hoping to find a removable plate that i could modify, but that wouldnt be any fun i suppose. Im not real keen on the idea of the whole 'pull tank-weld tubes' deal. I dont have a welder and it seems like alot of work. After some research through the archives I found a post about a surge tank. It looked like it was an EFI thing..but maybe could be an easier way to get my problem fixed. I planned for and bought hose/AN fittings for a 3/8" feed and return. I thought this sufficient for 420Hp. Bottom line...Im looking for the EASIEST way to keep my engine supplied with adequate go-juice. As of now I have the following: 140GPH fuel pump, return regulator, 35ft 3/8" socketless line and an array of socketless AN style fittings. I was contemplating running a deadhead style regulator with a 3/8" feed line plumbed off the 5/16" output of the tank..although my racer buddys where quick to say "RETURN LINE!!". I just want the easiest solution to do the job. I dont need anything fancy. What do you guys think? Jason

Looks great! I'm curious to hear what they sound like. I'm gettin close to the exhaust stage with my car also. I think Im gonna try to take a bit more of a stealth approach. I'd rather people found out the hard way that the car isn't just another L6. Record that bad boy and post wav files when u get it goin!! Jason