BLOZ UP

Got a lot done in the past 2 weeks:

Nice. Are they solid--do they shake a lot; do they stay in position?

Yeah, you're right. You need power, signal and ground. Last time I checked the code (MS, MSExtra 1/2) did not support the 360 degree wheel. It's either the 6 slot wheel (cylinder) for batch, or the DIY wheel if you want sequential. Yep. Sounds like you got it, but again: Lock megasquirt to 10 degrees or whatever it will idle at. Then, with a timing light, see what the actual timing is. It could be higher or lower than the timing megasquirt thinks it's using. Say it is 15 degrees, you then adjust your trigger angle (either more or less, depends on which direction you are trying to go) until the timing light matches what megasquirt is commanding (the fixed 10 degrees). Use small trigger angle steps at first to find out which way the timing light will go so you don't stall. You can move in larger steps once you know you're headed in the right direction. Now, I have heard if you want to run extreme timing (For cruising MPG or whatever), you need to have the distributor set all the way unwound (or is it wound?). This allows you to run ~50 degrees maximum advance without jumping to the wrong plug. I just got the distributor more or less in the middle and worked my trigger angle from there. This was best for clearing my Maxima intake.

It isn't that bad. My first time so everything is going slower. It's also all stock. Or at least it was. No more EGR and a few other convenience fixes are going in. As well as silicone everything so I don't have to worry about it for a while. Figured out the cam issue. Somehow, as best as I can figure, the intake caps got mixed up. Just the front ones, anyway, and the remaining ones needed to be reorganized on the head they were on. I checked the exhaust caps, they are all 'upside down'. Not sure how I managed to get the exhaust ones right, then completely forget how the intake caps went on. I had to verify each cap by running my nail against the edge on each once torqued down (without the cam in). Eventually found the right spots. So, yeah, next time I'll take pics. Got the timing belt back on, the front covers, one turbo and ordered some silicone hoses (for coolant bypass and turbo coolant lines) and entire engine bay fuel line replacement kit from Z1. Also ordered the cheap Megan downpipes and exhaust since I do not want to even try to put the stock ones back on. No pics, but I have a video (of past work, not the latest stuff):

Well, got the long block assembled, as in the video. Got the valve covers and rear timing covers on, was doing the timing belt and then noticed the intake cams on both heads are very, very hard to turn. Like, can't even feel the cam lobes and it sticks at whatever angle you turn them too. Took the intake valve covers off and removed the lifters and verified it wasn't them. Looks like the caps are binding. Now, the exhaust cams rotate fine, but there's no telling if the caps are incorrectly sized, just on the too large side. For now, I will just focus on the intake cams. I had put the intake and exhaust caps for each head in separate boxes, since they are marked (I or E) and numbered. I wrote what head they came from on the box, taped it up, and handed it to the machine shop. At first I thought the machine shop may have mixed them up--but I don't recall the tape ever being removed/reapplied, nor would they need to. So, I think I may have mixed them up. But, if the writing is supposed to be 'right side up' when you are facing the engine from the side of the head being worked on, that means that cap 1 and 5 (for each head) cannot be mixed with the other head. So that leaves caps 2-4 that might be on the wrong head. So I tried swapping them out, but every one ended up binding the cams. I will try swapping all the caps over to the opposite side, so all writing will be upside down. I didn't take any pre-dissassembly photos of the heads but I didn't think I needed them. Kind of at a loss to how this could happen--but it doesn't look like I've done any damage finding out this problem. But, I may have to get my bore gauge out and calipers and start measuring to find the right combination. If I find that somehow all the journals shrunk and I need to get the cam machined, I will be really, really confused. But in other news I got a few new things: New transmission clutch fork and pivot, and throwout bearing from Z1 New exhaust studs and nuts (though Z1 threw in a not self-locking one with the rest :/) Z1 silicone EVAP and IAC hoses, and oil filter tree o-ring (after Z1 also messed up this order and missed the o-ring the first time) EGR block off plug (already have an intake block off kit)

You want to "lock" your distributor to a known angle, and match that setting on the megasquirt, and then adjust your timing from megasquirt only. Megasquirt can be directly connected to the coil to trigger it, and thus control the timing. As long as your dwell is sane it won't blow up. 2ms dwell is a good start. For the DIY trigger wheel, you use the same wire for the cylinder TDC on the OE wheel (the 6 slot one). You just need the signal and ground, it's an optical sensor.

Haven't done much. Updated to the latest firmware (MSExtra 3.4.2), as mine was quite old. I used TunerStudios firmware upgrade utility which seemed to work well despite one blank screen in the wizard. Tuned it a bit. Almost got some dyno time setup but decided to wait until it isn't so hot. So maybe later this month or October.

Yeah, I don't know what the deal is. Perhaps little underhood air flow. The fuel lines don't really get close to the exhaust, but the exhaust overall is much higher in the engine bay (just below each vent, actually), and takes up far more room (front mount turbo). But, on the other hand, the car will only trigger the electric fan when sitting, and the oil temps rarely get up unless you sit idling as well (though the temp gauge is on my remote filter assembly, so it could be a quite few degrees colder than in the engine). I may try just adding a under tray/pan to see if that helps or makes it worse and then if that doesn't help I'll start being a bit more scientific.

I've had plenty of fuel vapor lock issues with my VG33 swap. Was using an Aeromotive A750 that would lose pressure on a warm day, and then switched to a Fuelab Prodigy which worked better but not on hot days. Both just flowed too much, heating up the fuel in my return system. I have a Bosch 044 now, and so far no issues but I drove to the Z meeting last weekend and on the trip home the pump started making weird noises and to me that means it's got vapor pockets right at the inlet. Fuel pressure was holding fine though, but much hotter and I'd have to let it sit for a bit to cool off or risk pressure loss at speed. Hot starts are also really hard, I believe it has to purge vapor out before getting fuel. I tried adding a check valve (didn't have one) and it didn't do much. Tempted to get a fuel cooler with an electric fan (what could possibly go wrong) just in front of the fuel tank under the car.

Looks reeel good. A+ man.

How do you get so much done... I'm a year into my wife's VG30DETT rebuild....

Hm, did lots of stuff. Assembled short block. Rebuilt 20/24 lifters. 4 of them are ruined due to congealed degreaser (WTF?). Had to order 4 replacements. Got heads shaved and cleaned and valve job'd. Put heads on. Put oil pump and some water pipes on. Put a new knock sensor and harness on. Got Z1 motor mounts and put those on. Here's a timelapse video (just up to head installation). Still working on part 2.

Wow that's light. Very curious to see what mine ways with the VG. Probably close to the stock L, I imagine due to less block weight but more exhaust and turbo parts. Didn't take long to do the flares. How does it feel to have cut up those fenders, huh? Guilty?

Hilarious. Closest I had to go was an emissions inspection on a dyno with a cat-less VG30ET. Midjudged the amount of denatured alcohol to mix in (instead of 1/4 tank it was closer to 1/2 alcohol). Retarded timing by, I dunno, 10 degrees everywhere (except idle). Ran like complete shit. But passed emissions with flying colors! They could barely keep it at speed on the dyno it kept misfiring and bucking. No idea how misfires didn't blow the emissions past the limits.

Hnnnnng... dumping my VG33 on the floor right now... ordering LSx....

I got me the MSA ones, that drill into the window trim. Haven't had the courage to drill into the trim yet though so they've been sitting in my garage for like a year now.

Hey they have some very similar to what supposedly came on the original ZZZAP: Although, after searching it looks like the originals are the shitty ones I have.

I had oil leak past the compressor and turbine seals with my Turbonetics BB turbo. The drain is about 4" higher than the return in the pan, and the line slopes gently down to it at an even rate throughout the length. The slack in the line eventually settled a certain way with maybe 1/2" of droop. This caused oil to backup and leak past the compressor and turbine seals. I had to cut the line 1" shorter to eliminate slack, and ensure it stayed that way with zip ties. I still get blue smoke if I am going down this one long sloping hill... Oh well. Next version of my exhaust manifolds will have to fix that.

So, you should get an ECU retune to get the maximum benefits. The stock MAF system is assuming a combustion configuration. While it will pick up any flow changes for fueling, you won't be getting the best AFRs. As for MPG... you could see an increase if you are cruising in the powerband where you pick up efficiency. The more radical the cams the less likely though, as the RPMs climb fuel efficiency just goes out the window regardless. I mean, if you're getting cams I would go as wild as you can. It's a pain to switch them, IMO. But, up to you! I also ported and polished my exhaust ports, combustion chamber, and ported the intake as well.

I have Schneider stage IIs on my VG33 (Where MSA sources theirs, IIRC), with Schneider's springs. I rebuilt the lifters myself (did not resurface). Stock, cleaned up rocker arms. 1-2k miles with no issues that I know of. I debated resurfacing the lifters (light sanding) but every machine shop I spoke to said: "Don't do that, the surface is hardened, it'll soften it up. Any wear pattern isn't going to matter with a new lobe surface." Which sounded reasonable to me.

I have a feeling the asbestos gaskets don't pose as much risk as an entire building full of asbestos. I imagine it's like grinding thoriated electrodes: Wear the right PPE when handling it, don't worry otherwise. So in this case, don't grind and breathe the dust in. Wear gloves--maybe. Disclaimer: I have no clue what I am talking about.

Wow, Gallardos are cheap. Meh. Plebe Lambo. Diablos were getting kind of cheap about 8 years ago, but seem to be going up again. Dammit, just when I start making money they move ahead. True story: I used to live next to (like 3 mins away) from a old, captain morgan bearded guy who owed a purple Diablo (pre-SV, not a Jota). I saw him driving it maybe once or twice. Mainly I saw some mexican dude working on it in his driveway. I ran into him at the grocery store and asked him about it. Said it was non-working more often than not. Then asked if my GF (now wife) was my sister or my gf. We were like 1/3 his age. Never felt like talking to him after that.

Released 1.1 Added basic browse categories Started API work Added about page Moved to GitHub

Spend a bit more and get a Diablo.