BLOZ UP

Motor is still not apart yet. Just the turbos, manifolds and heads remain on the outside. Having trouble with getting the turbos off.

Went to the AutoX! It was tons of fun, mainly because I took the WRX which didn't give me any shit. Otherwise, I got the fuel pump wired in. Since it's brushless, it does not like anything less than 12 volts. So it cannot work during cranking, at least not with my small battery. So, my options were 1) replace the pump with a brushed one, 2) disable it during cranking and put in a check valve to hold pressure. I opted for 2. The first check valve (Jeg's -6) I got was bad though, and I had to return it (for store credit, hrmph). This prevented me from making the autocross. I ordered a Russel one to replace it, and it seemed a lot better built anyway. Anyhoo, got that installed, and then had to configure the pump to not run during cranking. I added in another relay to disconnect the fuel pump relay signal wire. Now there are 3 relays involved with my fuel pump. One is the original EFI/Pump relay under the dash, which then goes to the 40A relay (formerly a 30A that got a bit warm with this pump), which turns on dedicated 12 GA wires to the pump, but which is also disconnected via another relay connected to the accessory circuit to disable the pump during cranking. The speed control is wired up more or less like the Fuelab instructions, but I added a pot to adjust the low speed setting as much as I want. So this works, somehow. It takes a lot of cranking when cold, and my cranking PW% values have gone through the roof (150% to 1000%) to get it to start with only remnants of fuel pressure. Warm starts aren't so bad though. My battery hates it, so I picked up a jumper pack like I've been meaning to do anyway. Also fixed my Speedhut gauge dimmer pot that I've been meaning to. But.... my alternator died. Turns out I disconnected the charge light when installing the speed hut gauges, so I thought the field coil wasn't getting excited, but after fixing that (hooked it up to the low fuel light since I was out of options at the time--probably a bad idea) it still wouldn't output anything. So, I ordered a new alternator. Also going to pick up a Bosch 044 pump since I'm tired of this shit and just want my car to work.

Fixed as in no centrifugal or vacuum advance? Then yes (and you still 'could' with mechanical advance, but it's not recommended).

Cranking PW is set as percentage of required fuel not DC%, if you have any recent MS2extra firmware. I think the others (MS2, MS1) are still in ms of PW. If 2% is your cranking PW%, it is way too small. Try 200-300% for a cold engine.

So my car's been down while I replace the fuel pump. Aeromotive pump still works but sounds horrible and eventually vapor locks. Got my new Fuelab pump installed, but not wired up. Turns out the pump I got from eBay ("unused") is a really older version of their 41401. Instead of having one terminal for speed control input it has 3 wires. 5v, GND, and 0-5v input. Ok, I can make this work. I got the older install instructions from Fuelab and inspected what I had... It's sort of wired up correctly. The voltage divider and capacitor are alright, but that purple wire is connected to that resistor there and nothing else. There it is installed. And I connected the power and ground wires up and tested it. It turns "on"... but makes horrid noises. Might be just trying to prime, or it may be a bad pump. I need to finish wiring it and fill the tank up since it only has a couple gallons in it. As the speed control wiring sits right now it should provide about 4V, or 80% speed. I think. So, of course I signed up for the next autocross fully expecting everything will work out! Actually, I plan on running my WRX if the Z isn't working.

So if your plugs are fouled, it's firing at least some of the time? Is your req fuel set decent?

Uncalibrated AFR sensor, or just not reliable with low voltage during cranking?

I've seen one or two swaps in a S130. Thought one was on here...

What seat?

I have a single Sparco Torino II. I got it used. It's a tight fit. I used a Planted seat bracket, which just allowed the seat to fit on the floor--but I had to hammer the shoulder bolsters in so the door would shut. If I had to do it again, I'd got with a fixed back seat. This one is heavier than a stock seat, IIRC. But I sure don't move around in autocrosses anymore!

Nardi Classic (black leather + black stitching) NRG Short Hub + NRG Quick Release 2.0 Haven't driven out of my driveway with it yet. But much easier to get in and out with my Sparco seat.

I made a web application just for that.

Updated to 1.0. It is now open-source under a GPL v3 license. I still need to add library licenses and other housekeeping things, but I am going to put it on the back burner and let other people get involved unless there's enough interest. New Features: Charts for 2D Curves Bug fixes: X/Y Axes were inverted on 2D curves Other minor fixes. https://bitbucket.org/nearwood/msqur

Fuelab has responded that it is one of their older ones. Dammit eBay.

There was Jerry's All Zs, but that's not more I think. East FW, next to Arlington where I used to live. Mad Mike hangs out with the Dallas Z club... Colter's BBQ is pretty good. Also try Rudy's (I prefer Colter's, but popular opinion favors Rudy's). There's also a bunch of smaller, nice joints around the metroplex. Miss me some nice dry, lean, smoked brisket. Can't get that shit right here... it's all wet and fatty Carolina style crap.

Supposed to be a Fuelab 41401. Says Fuelab on it. Has a serial number. Fuelab isn't getting back to me... It's supposed to have 3 terminals. Instead, I have 3 wires sticking out. Red and black ~10 gauge, and the middle one is actually a 3 wire group of 16 gauge red, black, and green wires. PO attached this free form circuit to it:

Lol 150 ft-lbs across the board.

Corvettes is/were the most rolled cars for a while. Their roof reinforcements were pretty weak up until the C6, IIRC. So they were pretty fatal. Just type in "corvette rollover" into google news and be amazed.

It should be in the TunerStudio program's folder. My only Windows TunerStudio machine is at work, so I can't say exactly where until I return. Don't worry about it though. I need to see if I can get more of them from another source.

Yeah. You uploaded this one, right? It doesn't have all the INI files, so if you can send yours it should work.

Can you post or email me your INI file? Looks like comms332hM?

Got my Fuelab and Nardi/NRG stuff in. The wheel's nice. They had to make it since they usually do red stitching. I considered red, but there's no other red trim in my interior (well, besides my fire extinguisher, launch control switch cover, and gauge back lighting). I'm glad I got black, it would have stuck out. The NRG mounts were simple to install. There weren't any instructions but after watching a video of someone else doing it was straightforward. The horn button hookup was ... interesting though. In my infinite wisdom I decided tack welding a crimp connector to the inside of the Nardi button was the best option. Let's just say the horn works, and there's no visible damage and leave it at that. Pretty satisfied. Finishes out my interior a lot better than the old 240Z wheel, IMO. Muuuuuch easier to get in and out. I opted to remove the release "lock" button but holding it in and using the set screw. Too annoying to get to.

Thanks for the heads up. I think I'll try using an Arduino with two output wires from my megasquirt to trigger preset PWM values. Mainly because I'm like tinkering with shit, especially when it involves flammable substances. As long as I can get two output wires from MS, the Arduino can do 30/60/100% or even 25/50/75/100% easily. Should be fun and really simple.

Step 2: Remove engine and transmission. Took note a few things that need replacing. This includes new downpipes, as all the studs broke. So the rebuild is going to cost a bit more.

Step 1: Acquire 5 speed swap parts. Not pictured, Z32 NA transmission. She wants to do the whole swap for under $1000, but that's probably not going to happen. This (plus the transmission) is $1,200 already. On the good side, it's a Fidanza lightweight flywheel and Z1 Street Performance clutch. Should liven it up a bit and hold stockish or slightly more than stock power. There's still some interior trim to get, but I believe we have more or less everything.